jaylew Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 It doesn't come out of the knuckle via hammer if you successfully pass the pinch bolt. The hammer is for the control arm side of the ball joint. There is this tool if it is really seized in the knuckle. You can also re-bolt it to the control arm and use a long pry bar on the control arm to yank it out. Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 I have to replace my passenger side ball joint, been procrastinating on it for awhile. Got the pinch bolt out, cleaned up and anti seized, but that sucker is not moving otherwise out of the knuckle. Can I really just beat on it with a hammer? Don't think that will do much, to be honest, tough to get a good angle to get a solid whack on the top of the LCA to force it down. I used this method when I swapped mine out: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4893650&postcount=32383 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 I have to replace my passenger side ball joint, been procrastinating on it for awhile. Got the pinch bolt out, cleaned up and anti seized, but that sucker is not moving otherwise out of the knuckle. Can I really just beat on it with a hammer? I have the astro balljoint remover I can ship you if you need to use it to pull the balljoint, just let me know. I bought it to remove mine after reading horror stories, but didn't end up needing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 ^ that's what I've been looking for. I've been to 2-3 auto parts stores to rent a set of them, but nobody has it. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 If it is really seized in the knuckle. You can also re-bolt it to the control arm and use a long pry bar on the control arm to yank it out. This is the method I'm most familiar with, rented those long pry bar forks from the auto parts store, but no go. I'll probably just buy my own removal tool like infosecdad mentioned. Not too worried about it, just need to nut up and get it out of there. Thanks fellas EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Kinda surprised, or maybe just sad, that you can't do it with a typical pickle fork or one of those scissor like ball joint removers. I have both of those. I'm thinking mine will come out in the next year, I'll be putting in the roll center kit when I lower the car. Also might be what's making my suspension clunk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Kinda surprised, or maybe just sad, that you can't do it with a typical pickle fork or one of those scissor like ball joint removers. I have both of those. I'm thinking mine will come out in the next year, I'll be putting in the roll center kit when I lower the car. Also might be what's making my suspension clunk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If you're replacing the balljoint, there's no reason you can't. It will just destroy the boot in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty9 Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Pickle forks will let you separate it from the lower control arm. The problem is the ball joint always get stuck in the knuckle. I had to heat up the knuckle with a blow torch and beat it with a hammer to get those devils out. heat it and beat it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Pickle forks will let you separate it from the lower control arm. The problem is the ball joint always get stuck in the knuckle. I had to heat up the knuckle with a blow torch and beat it with a hammer to get those devils out. heat it and beat it! Should work just fine the other way too (undo the pinch bolt and leave the BJ bolted into the LCA). I'm sure that doesn't really lessen the requirement of some heat and some generous donations to the cursing gods, though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 Cleaned the maf sensor on both cars. Can't really see the maf wire but the IAT wires were pretty dirty on the leading half. Didn't really notice much, if any difference driving, even with the paper towel catching quite a bit a dirt that flushed out. I didn't reset either ECU. Is that a good idea, or will it adjust on its own? (Does it do a key on calibration that needs to be reset?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 1, 2020 Share Posted September 1, 2020 If it had made a difference, you would have seen an immediate change in fuel trims and open loop AFR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadBod Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Should work just fine the other way too (undo the pinch bolt and leave the BJ bolted into the LCA). I'm sure that doesn't really lessen the requirement of some heat and some generous donations to the cursing gods, though FWIW that’s how I did mine recently. I was lucky that both pinch bolts came out clean. Left the ball joints in the control arms, but instead of a pickle fork I used a bull pin. http:// https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PrUtFbHPJKGS0Something like this. Jammed it between the control arm and knuckle. Couple of very satisfying whacks and ball joints popped right out. (I can’t take any credit for this. Someone here posted this tip but now I can’t find the post.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Ran into that thread last night: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/separating-lca-ball-joint-tie-rod-knuckle-medieval-style-113347.html On-topic: Finished re-booting the CV (bought the Beck-Arnley 103-2976 kit) and got the LGT back on the ground. Probably won't be driven at all until next week after I'm back from a short vacation over the long weekend. Started looking back at the live-tuning stuff a couple nights ago. Re-built Aijiimod for my ECU, but still haven't updated the maps or flashed it to the car yet. Trying to wrap my head around some of the coding side of things to figure out how the best way to implement the live-tuning portion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Cleaned the maf sensor on both cars. Can't really see the maf wire but the IAT wires were pretty dirty on the leading half. Didn't really notice much, if any difference driving, even with the paper towel catching quite a bit a dirt that flushed out. I didn't reset either ECU. Is that a good idea, or will it adjust on its own? (Does it do a key on calibration that needs to be reset?) Just put it in and drive the car. No need to reset the ECU. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagwagon Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 If it had made a difference, you would have seen an immediate change in fuel trims and open loop AFR. It's possible that it helped the 2005. Learning 1A seemed to be having problems settling down after replacing all the intake tract o-rings and gaskets, turbo inlet and intercooler to tb pipe. It seems to have settled down to normal numbers and holding (no more wild swings from 0 to +9%). I don't have an AP on the 2007 so not sure if it did anything but my wife said the car felt better, could be placebo effect, shouldn't have told what I was doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Wellp, the corn has defeated the Exedy stage 1 clutch. 27k miles on it. Bah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 LOF, cleaned mass air and topped off the washer fluid. Winter sneakers soon so I held off on rotating tires. Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 The 06 has a bad valve. Keep an eye out for a part out thread unless anyone wants to buy a stage 2+ legacy GT with a burnt valve. 3 port ebcs, a/f sensor, up pipe, catted down pipe, 5 speed transmission black interior, h&r springs, koni struts, kta124 kit, control arms with wl bushings, kartboy short shifter. aem 320 fuel pump, probably some more crap I'm forgetting. What? No! Just have the heads done. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Wellp, the corn has defeated the Exedy stage 1 clutch. 27k miles on it. Bah. You break so much stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 You break so much stuff... I have a feeling it's on purpose Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 On purpose, yes. To be fair, the car was originally only supposed to be around 300 wtq, which is within the rating of the Stage 1 clutch. Then I decided that I wasn't done wasting money, and tuned E85. Good news is that their 350 wtq Stage 2 disc uses the same pressure plate, so I can just swap and go and don't have to buy a whole kit. ....also, the last thing I 'broke' doesn't count yet. The trans that sounds like it has rocks inside of it is still alive and kicking. Question is - am I enough of a masochist to put it back up when I do the clutch, or just install the good trans I have sitting? I feel like the broken one has some more miles of sad Chewbacca noises left in it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Considering I don't have a lift, I hate pulling the trans. I'll do that as little as possible thank you. TIL that there's supposed to be a divider piece in the center console to make it a functional cup holder. Which explains my frustration and also why no one has 3d printed one yet.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorDaveLGT Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Considering I don't have a lift, I hate pulling the trans. I'll do that as little as possible thank you. TIL that there's supposed to be a divider piece in the center console to make it a functional cup holder. Which explains my frustration and also why no one has 3d printed one yet.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk You talking about the guy in this link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Yea an image just got posted in norutahs fs thread and I was very surprised. It was the main reason I wanted an edm swap. For functional cup holders lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 On purpose, yes. To be fair, the car was originally only supposed to be around 300 wtq, which is within the rating of the Stage 1 clutch. Then I decided that I wasn't done wasting money, and tuned E85. Good news is that their 350 wtq Stage 2 disc uses the same pressure plate, so I can just swap and go and don't have to buy a whole kit. ....also, the last thing I 'broke' doesn't count yet. The trans that sounds like it has rocks inside of it is still alive and kicking. Question is - am I enough of a masochist to put it back up when I do the clutch, or just install the good trans I have sitting? I feel like the broken one has some more miles of sad Chewbacca noises left in it.... I just had my 5mt rebuild 900 miles ago. The tranny shop has no explanation for the bucket of rocks noise it still makes. He has been doing tranny's all his life, he's about my age. Everything in the tranny is set to spec. He took extra time to try and figure it out. He's stumped. The car has made that bucket of rocks sound on decel since the DMFW was replaced with a SMFW back in 2007. I will caution you about reusing the PP with a new disc. It may be fine for a while but won't it wear out sooner ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now