What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[Enlight]

Attempted to put some rivnuts in the bumper beam for my camera rig, but the bolt and nut method wouldn't cut it - placed an order for the back-ordered tool on Amazon. Next is the hood, as the suction cups I'm testing are already losing suction after 5 hours with no camera.

[WRX USA]

I want to try the Grimmspeed intake. I *think* I miss the nice F-14 takeoff sounds when I really get on it that I had with my RS-T.

However, I realized that my HKS inlet isn't exactly what GS had in mind when they designed the intake.

 

[ATTACH]286824[/ATTACH]

 

My inlet has the S-curve built into it.

I'm not terribly enthusiastic about replacing the inlet; it took me a good bit to get it in there and it's been good to me.

Options I can think of are:

1. Get a different inlet. If I go that route, what's a good one to pair with the GS?

2. Carefully cut the S-curve off the HKS and turn it into a more traditional inlet.

3. Try to figure out how to get the GS to work, but I suspect the angles won't allow it.

 

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv87/JoshEAllen/F074EFDE-9E90-4074-BB5A-41560668E5C9.jpg

 

I had the same HKS intake, except I powdercoated it black so that it would pass the visual inspection for smog in California. I switched to the Cobb and a Perrin turbo inlet hose because I started upgrading the turbo and the stock box became a limiting factor. I considered cutting the HKS but to do that right it would need to come out and at that point it just made sense to sell it and move on.

Edited September 6, 2020 by WRX USA

[boxkita]

Attempted to put some rivnuts in the bumper beam for my camera rig, but the bolt and nut method wouldn't cut it - placed an order for the back-ordered tool on Amazon. Next is the hood, as the suction cups I'm testing are already losing suction after 5 hours with no camera.

 

buy a used hood, and bolt mounting brackets to it.

[Enlight]

A special hood for mounting the camera would be nice, but the idea of having to switch hoods every time I want to mount the camera is more work than I'd like. That being said, even the suction cups were strong enough to shake the car yesterday. I think rivnuts will suffice for now.

[finsta]

Though not today, but earlier this week: Euro console. I'll be adding to my thread soon enough about my experiences doing the swap.

[Enlight]

Installed my first helicoil. Not easy with a full size tap wrench and locking pliers, but it's straight and true.

 

Also did some plastic welding on my torn JDM Spec B fender liner.

Edited September 7, 2020 by Enlight

[Max Capacity]

Great job doing that.

 

I have done them a few times at work, but luckily have not had to do it at home.

 

Check that bottom thread, it looks like the tang didn't break off cleanly.

 

We had issues with that at work when the Vendor installed the larger helicoils. That bottom thread will ruin the bolt if its sticking out.

 

You can use a small L shaped pick, to pull that thread back into it place.

Edited September 8, 2020 by Max Capacity

[awfulwaffle]

Pleasant surprise. Tore into the original motor from the wife's OBXT (spun rod bearing, driven till it seized) to see if anything's worth salvaging before pulling it from the stand so she can get going on transferring parts to her EJ20X, and the heads somehow survived the ordeal. Completely serviceable cam journals. Go figure.

[seanyb505]

Major relief there. Hot tank and clean those bad boys!

 

 

This weekend I installed some slip-on exhaust tips for the q300. Main goal was to get the tip exit farther out from under the bumper. Secondary goal was to nicen up the rear and move away from the "raw pipe exhaust look" that the q300 has for Legacies. I bought two of these - https://www.amazon.com/ESPEEDER-Pair-Muffler-Exhaust-Pipes/dp/B0757K9KZM - 4 pieces total. They're cheap enough that if they crumble in a year, no real loss. They're also cheap enough that they probably will crumble in a year lol.

 

Compared to raw q300:

 

 

Both sides done:

 

 

Unfortunately it highlights the slight tweak the q300 system has on my car. I've not been able/dedicated enough to remedy to the millimeter, but I think it looks okay from 50 feet/50mph.

 

 

 

Installation done with rubber mallet. Not bad for $55.

Edited September 8, 2020 by seanyb505

[DoctorDaveLGT]

Looking sharp! The tips I put on my Q300 did the same thing of highlighting the tweak. Mine sits just like yours, drivers side is high and tight while the passenger side is slightly lower.

[Max Capacity]

You can adjust the height of the mufflers by using a screw type hose clamp on the hanger and tightening it up to raise one side.

 

 

Oh yeah, I see what your talking about.

 

 

I couldn't stand the drone from that so I put that exhaust on the Spec B.

 

I would think, if you loosened the two bolts at the Y pipe to muffler you could be able to adjust the gap too...?

Edited September 8, 2020 by Max Capacity

[rhino6303]

Yesterday I found a major rattle caused by my uppipe heatshield. I've already welded it once. This time I fixed it by using a hose clamp. I'm thinking I may buy a new uppipe since I'm still on non-catted oem. I have my new header to install this week or next week too so it's a good time to replace.

 

What's your favorite uppipe?

 

I'm leaning towards the new version of the turbo xs because it has a much higher quality flex joint than others.

https://turboxs.com/exhaust/66-wrxsti-catless-upppipe.html

 

Thoughts?

 

Kepp my non-catted oem with new and improved hose clamp or buy new uppipe?

[Max Capacity]

The non catted OEM up pipe is the best. Just remove the heat shield from it.

[lilredwagon]

I would just buy a fresh, used non-catted OEM with fewer miles. I've sort of been all over the place with uppipes, and it's true, the OEM, non-catted is the best. And the OEM heat shields are the best as well.

 

Here are a couple old pics of what happens when a mesh style flex joint goes bad. From the outside it looks fine:

 

 

But it frayed on the inside, almost completely blocking the flow. This took out my motor:

 

[lagwagon]

What brand is that up pipe?

[lilredwagon]

I don't remember. That pic was taken in 2010. I worked at a shop back then, so it's possible that it may have been a cheapie that was just taken off the used/takeoffs shelf. The ones I remember buying have been: Invidia, Perrin, APS, and another brand maybe TXS? All reputable brands, and all of them cracked under heat wrap. So I got an Invidia one piece ELH that merges up at the turbo so it takes place of the uppipe. That was a bitch to install without a lift, and that cracked also. Eventually, I gave up the ~20 or so WHP and just went back to stock headers and non-catted OEM uppipe and haven't had any problems since.

 

Not trying to disparage any companies, and it should also be noted that this was from 2004-2010, so even if any of the companies are still around, I'm sure their manufacturing process is different by now.

[Infosecdad]

I just had to replace an Invidia up-pipe from a cracked weld after a couple years. Not sure how much has changed

[Max Capacity]

I don't remember. That pic was taken in 2010. I worked at a shop back then, so it's possible that it may have been a cheapie that was just taken off the used/takeoffs shelf. The ones I remember buying have been: Invidia, Perrin, APS, and another brand maybe TXS? All reputable brands, and all of them cracked under heat wrap. So I got an Invidia one piece ELH that merges up at the turbo so it takes place of the uppipe. That was a bitch to install without a lift, and that cracked also. Eventually, I gave up the ~20 or so WHP and just went back to stock headers and non-catted OEM uppipe and haven't had any problems since.

 

Not trying to disparage any companies, and it should also be noted that this was from 2004-2010, so even if any of the companies are still around, I'm sure their manufacturing process is different by now.

 

 

Sorry you learned the hard way that the 07-09 OEM up pipe is a keeper.

[teranaut]

I decided it was time for some cable spaghetti this weekend and dove into my iDatalink Maestro RR2/Kenwood Excelon DMX907S installation.

 

First, spaghetti and integrating the i88 and i85 harnesses (Thanks SVXdc):

 

Next, a bit of double DIN and confirming the iDatalink is talking with the car over the CAN pair before binding up all of the wires:

 

Finally, buttoned up while I find a solution for the two tone and debate playing with the gaps some more:

 

Next week...probably a detail. She's getting dusty inside.

Edited September 8, 2020 by teranaut

[BoozeRS05]

I'll be removing my Invidia UP and eBay UEL header on my wagon soon, going back to the stock units from my specB.

 

Pretty sure there's a leak somewhere, only able to build about 12lbs and I'm assuming it's the UP.

[m sprank]

Invidia Up pipes have a known tendency to crack at the weld between the pipe and the turbo flange. I lost count (years ago) of how many we replaced due to the exact same breakage.

 

 

 

Remember, Invidia started as a knock off company and along the way gained respectability. But... the products are still really made at a low quality point to meet a price.

[tehspud]

Had my wagon at the dealership for the airbag recall today. No new or worse dash rattling, so that's good.

[Nonamedude]

Not very exciting but I thought I had a leak in one tire. Turns out 3 were leaking at the valve. New valves and a balance on all wheels means no more steering wheel shake.

 

Also while the car was on the lift I asked to get under it since all my tools and stuff are packed. My dust shield on the right front brake was hitting the rotor. Quick bending of that backwards and no more scraping sound. And it appears to have fixed the low speed clunk I've been trying to locate.

[Nonamedude]

Yesterday I found a major rattle caused by my uppipe heatshield. I've already welded it once. This time I fixed it by using a hose clamp. I'm thinking I may buy a new uppipe since I'm still on non-catted oem. I have my new header to install this week or next week too so it's a good time to replace.

 

What's your favorite uppipe?

 

I'm leaning towards the new version of the turbo xs because it has a much higher quality flex joint than others.

https://turboxs.com/exhaust/66-wrxsti-catless-upppipe.html

 

Thoughts?

 

Kepp my non-catted oem with new and improved hose clamp or buy new uppipe?

 

The hose clamp didn't hold too long for me. Then I tried really big channel locks to oblong it and form a fold and kinda fold it on itself if that makes sense, that also didn't work for more than a few thousand miles.

 

You can get a grimmspeed one for the cost of a new OE, but they also come on basically every turbo EJ so maybe low mileage used is best. I'm in the same boat.

[rhino6303]

The hose clamp didn't hold too long for me. Then I tried really big channel locks to oblong it and form a fold and kinda fold it on itself if that makes sense, that also didn't work for more than a few thousand miles.

 

 

 

You can get a grimmspeed one for the cost of a new OE, but they also come on basically every turbo EJ so maybe low mileage used is best. I'm in the same boat.

Yeah. I like the turboxs because the flex is like the oem. I would really like it if it had some form of shielding. I pm'd pdxammo to see if he has any oem uppipes.

 

If it comes down to it, I'll pull mine and weld it...again. The heatshield is starting to look like chicken scratch, lol.