What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[boxkita]

Damn, Is an engine swap at all possible?

 

Yes, but its not going to be cheap. A decent engine build is about 10k. Finding all the swap parts (ecu, blu, harness, subframe, brakes, etc) is going to be another 5k depending on quality. Then there's labor cost.

 

Look in the classified section and you can find any number of ready to go cars for $10k or less. There's even a SEMA show car for 26k.

[amptramp]

Remember that tail/stop light I replaced a couple of days ago? I had to do it again. The lamp I used to replace it with burned out as soon as power hit it and both the tail and stop filaments burned out. I replaced it with another one that seems to be working. It was a Sylvania 7443 and they are sold in blister packs of two (so you might get one good one out of it). I have had trouble with short life on Sylvania bulbs before but this one turned milky as if they forgot to evacuate the air out of it. These came from Parts Source, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Canadian Tire. I wonder if I can get half my money back for the defective one. I will definitely try another supplier next time I need any lights.

[luckybullitt]

I put in ODX LED for rear stop lights last summer, no issues.

[lagwagon]

Remember that tail/stop light I replaced a couple of days ago? I had to do it again. The lamp I used to replace it with burned out as soon as power hit it and both the tail and stop filaments burned out. I replaced it with another one that seems to be working. It was a Sylvania 7443 and they are sold in blister packs of two (so you might get one good one out of it). I have had trouble with short life on Sylvania bulbs before but this one turned milky as if they forgot to evacuate the air out of it. These came from Parts Source, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Canadian Tire. I wonder if I can get half my money back for the defective one. I will definitely try another supplier next time I need any lights.

 

I have all Sylvania LED bulbs in my tails from CT. Haven't had any fail yet but in the last month I've had two Morimoto x-vf switchback bulbs fail. One actually fell apart, luckily in the driver's side headlight so I was able to fish it out with a ball of tape on my mechanic's magnet. I need to keep my eye on those Sylvanias now too.

[Flinkly]

All my exterior bulbs are sylvania zevo's, except the license plate lamps because zevo's seemed too bright (and headlights). No issues and been running them over a year. Lifetime warranty too, and sylvania customer service was great when i was researching and buying them.

[Enlight]

My driver side reverse light keeps on collecting water when it rains - has anyone else experienced this? I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the insulation I put in the rear hatch. Edited August 21, 2020 by Enlight

[Nonamedude]

My driver side reverse light keeps on collecting water when it rains - has anyone else experienced this? I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the insulation I put in the rear hatch.

 

 

Is it a wagon? Super common. The reverse light gaskets wear out. They are cheap and easy to replace.

 

 

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[Nonamedude]

Just don't drop a nut into the door. I still have one rattling in there I can't be bothered with yet.

 

 

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[Max Capacity]

My driver side reverse light keeps on collecting water when it rains - has anyone else experienced this? I'm hoping it has nothing to do with the insulation I put in the rear hatch.

 

I noticed mine a couple month's back, I pulled the bulb took a blow drier and blew out the water, let it finish drying put the bulb back in, it has been fine since.

 

A couple years back my right rear tail light housing had moisture in it. I took it off, pulled the bulbs out, set it in the sun to dry really well. Wiped down the seam then put a bead of RTV sealant all around it. Let it dry over night. It has been dry ever since.

Edited August 22, 2020 by Max Capacity

[awfulwaffle]

Drove from Detroit to Milwaukee on E85 for the first time. Turns out cornhopping in the midwest is not very difficult.

 

Fuel trims pulled hard negative about 100 miles out, -10 to -15%. Enough diagnostics data on hand to ID either a stuck injector or failing MAF. Injectors are 3 months old, so MAF seemed more likely. Spare in glovebox because I've been hurt before, and it's good!

[luckybullitt]

Any thoughts on airduct installed P3 gauges? Anybody using it? Looking at it as an option since my tuner says Cobb can’t be used anymore after my tune. No Cobb dealers near me so not alot of alternatives. Was using AP as monitoring\gauges. wwwP3gauges.com. They seem nice and complete but just one screen at a time. Also, it doesn’t state if it fits in Legacys. So anyone running one of these?

[rhino6303]

I started installing my folding mirrors that I've had for like 2 years. The set I bought isn't heated so I'm swapping my heated glass over. I also bought some 10 pin connectors that use the same pins as oem to swap over the wires easily.

Question for those that have done this, do you have tips on getting the two new wires through the door? I hate cutting holes. I'm not sure if I hate cutting holes more than removing the rubber covers and fishing wires through though, lol.

[finsta]

I just did my Brembo swap. I'm noticing though that I get speed dependent noises on one caliper. Not sure if the caliper is sticking. I rebuilt them so I don't know what's going on. The sound goes away when the brakes are pressed. I followed Hawk's procedure to bed the pads. The guy who refinished them blocked off a bleeder on two of the calipers because they would not come out. What's the general thought on this?

[Holla]

In general, I think it’s a hack job and I wouldn’t have put them on my car.

 

The procedure calls for bleeding both sides of the caliper. Inside, than outside. I’m not sure how you would get the air out of which ever side is blocked off. There’s a high probability they’re not bled correctly.

[finsta]

In general, I think it’s a hack job and I wouldn’t have put them on my car.

 

The procedure calls for bleeding both sides of the caliper. Inside, than outside. I’m not sure how you would get the air out of which ever side is blocked off. There’s a high probability they’re not bled correctly.

 

I appreciate that (seriously). Since I've put them on, I've had my doubts and have been internally debating buying a new set from Mach V/FastWRX. I think this is pushing me more towards doing that.

[awfulwaffle]

Don't do that, think that's the nuclear option and you have other options first. Those stuck bleeders can be fixed easily. I've done a few sets for folks, just find a machinist who will drill them out and install Timeserts. Or, NPT bleeder repair plugs will work. Or, worst case Rock Auto now sells Powerstop rebuilts for the 08-14 STI for like 180 a pop, the fronts will bolt up to your car.

[finsta]

Don't do that, think that's the nuclear option and you have other options first. Those stuck bleeders can be fixed easily. I've done a few sets for folks, just find a machinist who will drill them out and install Timeserts. Or, NPT bleeder repair plugs will work. Or, worst case Rock Auto now sells Powerstop rebuilts for the 08-14 STI for like 180 a pop, the fronts will bolt up to your car.

Unfortunately, the person who powdercoated them welded over them so they've been blocked off. The Powerstop rebuilds is good for the front, any idea about the rear?

[Nonamedude]

Don't do that, think that's the nuclear option and you have other options first. Those stuck bleeders can be fixed easily. I've done a few sets for folks, just find a machinist who will drill them out and install Timeserts. Or, NPT bleeder repair plugs will work. Or, worst case Rock Auto now sells Powerstop rebuilts for the 08-14 STI for like 180 a pop, the fronts will bolt up to your car.

 

 

What?! That's awesome. I guess I know where my next move will be for brakes. That's way cheaper than the sti brembos.

 

 

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[Nonamedude]

Unfortunately, the person who powdercoated them welded over them so they've been blocked off. The Powerstop rebuilds is good for the front, any idea about the rear?

 

 

WHAT?! That's some serious garbage. Oh you don't need a bleeder for your brakes....

 

 

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[awfulwaffle]

Unfortunately, the person who powdercoated them welded over them so they've been blocked off. The Powerstop rebuilds is good for the front, any idea about the rear?

 

Rears won't work, since they only have 08-14 which don't fit our cars. That said, even if yours have been welded, they can probably be saved via the NPT repair plugs. Those have their own bleeder seats, so all you need is a hole that punches through to the brake fluid passage under the weld. You can DIY with a hand drill, and the proper NPT tap wrench/drill bit. Cost you all of 20 bucks if you already own a drill.

Edited August 22, 2020 by awfulwaffle

[awfulwaffle]

For to helping - you'd buy one of these for each wrecked bleeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ESAIVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

and 1x of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDV3A30/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I haven't been able to find a repair kit that didn't have an individual 1/4 NPT bleeder repair plug, so buying this kit is the way to go as far as I'm aware of.

 

If you do decide to give it a shot, I like to wrap the plug threads in PTFE tape, and then get them as snug as I feel comfortable by hand. Then, I bleed the brakes and check for seepage. Tighten incrementally until seepage stops. Safer this way than ram jamming them in and accidentally cracking the caliper casting.

[awfulwaffle]

What?! That's awesome. I guess I know where my next move will be for brakes. That's way cheaper than the sti brembos.

 

 

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Yup, and when you factor in the cost of brackets it's also cheaper than ATS Brembos. Just checked, looks like all of NASIOC must have jumped on them. Only the raw unpainted ones left. Powerstop P/Ns L3698 and L3699.

[Marvick08GT]

Got the ELH and up/turbo in. Replaced lots of small o-rings and hoses. I have the IM and fuel lines prepped inside. Still waiting on the hose from P&L to connect to the flex fuel kit.

Also finally got around to installing all of the a/c parts from Infamous...

 

Edit: Found out previous owner stripped two bolts in the block and "threadsealed" them... both front bolts for the brackets (a/c and p/s) Will be installing two threaded inserts(helicoil)

Edited August 22, 2020 by Marvick08GT

[Nonamedude]

Found out previous owner stripped two bolts in the block and "threadsealed" them... both front bolts for the brackets (a/c and p/s) Will be installing two threaded inserts(helicoil)

 

Lol I definitely didn't cross thread one of the 4 bolts that hold on the ac compressor to the block. I just left that hole empty.

 

 

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[Nonamedude]

Tires rotated, oil changed, underside inspected for damage, new air filter.

 

Some good gouges on the stinger tail of the skid plate but no biggie. Also found the rear bolt was lose which I'm hoping was my false knock and rattle caused by the ac fan.

 

Also put on kartboy front end links hoping that was my front end clunk since I had them on hand. Didn't seem to do the trick though. Caliper sliding pins seemed to move but I'll do those next anyway.

 

 

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