xt2005bonbon Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 3 of my coil pack connectors are held with zip ties. It's been years now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 3 of my coil pack connectors are held with racecar glue. It's been years now ftfy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 I tried to zip tie the connector today, couldn't get it to grasp the connector and the coil. Maybe my ziptie was too thick. Do I need to pull the coil out to ziptie or have you guys zipped it in place? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 Tried to look into the coilpack zip tie thing out of boredom, came across this pic. I wonder if this is how most guys have done it? Pic stolen from the post below https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5099786&postcount=181 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 A new connector is easy. Mine was so far gone I just had to squeeze it. Once I had the wires free (it just fell apart), I just inserted them in the back of a new connector. I did a zip tie similar to that before getting new connectors. I bought all four as I figured that once one crumbles, the others are not far behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 i'd wait till a DTC appears. i will still drive but will keep out of boost. no sense in guessing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 Tried to look into the coilpack zip tie thing out of boredom, came across this pic. I wonder if this is how most guys have done it? Pic stolen from the post below https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5099786&postcount=181 Thanks for the pic! I tried to get a zip tie on while in place and it's tough, since I now know how it should look does anyone know if the coil has to come out 1st? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 (edited) It looks like you would need to loosen the bolt and work the coil out at least a little bit to get the zip tie around that way. I’ve also had luck making a square out of two zip ties (you need to use the thinner 4” ones), so the heads of the zip ties are on opposite corners. Then you slip it over the coil and connector and cinch them both evenly and clip off the excess. That should last you long enough to get a replacement connector kit. This morning I’m looking at the GDT cylinder 4 cooling mod, and playing with an arduino and OLED screen (trying to get it to display DCCD lock, outside temp, and IAT - currently showing temp & humidity from another sensor off-vehicle). Waiting for a spare clock assembly to show up, to use for development purposes. Edited December 26, 2020 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 Tried to look into the coilpack zip tie thing out of boredom, came across this pic. I wonder if this is how most guys have done it? Pic stolen from the post below https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5099786&postcount=181 Here's how my #3 has been since Oct 11 2009 The wagon rolled 296,000 miles Xmas day going to my son's house. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 It looks like you would need to loosen the bolt and work the coil out at least a little bit to get the zip tie around that way. I’ve also had luck making a square out of two zip ties (you need to use the thinner 4” ones), so the heads of the zip ties are on opposite corners. Then you slip it over the coil and connector and cinch them both evenly and clip off the excess. That should last you long enough to get a replacement connector kit. This morning I’m looking at the GDT cylinder 4 cooling mod, and playing with an arduino and OLED screen (trying to get it to display DCCD lock, outside temp, and IAT - currently showing temp & humidity from another sensor off-vehicle). Waiting for a spare clock assembly to show up, to use for development purposes. I did a diy version of the GDT cooling mod. It was like $20-30 in parts if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 I did a diy version of the GDT cooling mod. It was like $20-30 in parts if I remember correctly. Did you control the inside diameter of the fitting or just use whatever the fitting came with? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 Did you control the inside diameter of the fitting or just use whatever the fitting came with? He mentioned it took so long and cost what it does due to all the testing of various IDs to get just the right size and that it had to be custom made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted December 26, 2020 Share Posted December 26, 2020 Did you control the inside diameter of the fitting or just use whatever the fitting came with?He mentioned it took so long and cost what it does due to all the testing of various IDs to get just the right size and that it had to be custom made.I realized after I posted that I actually did a diy of the VEMS tuning kit. They use a standard m20x1.5 to -6an phenix tuning fitting. I also have in my parts hoard the oem jdm fitting and an inline reducer if anyone wants it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Well after the fiasco of the right control arm, today I got to do the left. Awfulwaffle let me use space in his shop so I didn't have to be out in the cold. Pinch bolt broke of course. Then I don't know how to use impacts and stripped the lower threads of the ball joint meaning we couldn't get the puller on there well enough to be usable. So the control arm got welded to the ball joint, 2 people held an old jack handle in place while I beat on it with a 4lb sledge. This was after many attempts with hammers, torches, ball joint pullers, air chisels, etc. Took about 2 hours I'd guess just to get the ball joint so it was nice to be out of the cold and have all the help. About 7 hours all told with plenty of bsing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 That was one of the stuck-est balljoints I ever done seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 That's why some of us, well me, point out, it might be easier overall to just buy new knuckles. With a lift and impact tools, my trusted mechanic told me years ago it cheaper to buy the knuckle then pay the labor. my cost for the knuckle was $114 back then. I think that was one of those, where the Dealership delivered the part to the shop. I just made the phone call to order it. Part of building a relationship with the Parts Manager at the Dealership. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Honestly after all that shenanigans I think I agree. Buy a replacement knuckle, the hardware, and hub bearings and go to town. Maybe if you don't have 10+ yo ball joints or can have a bunch of downtime it might be worth a shot but my car isn't really all that rusty underneath. I find it pretty surprising how badly seized it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdXammo Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 Gotta tease this a little. Another forum member really helped me out with obtaining this white buffalo. It is one of the 15 08 5mt gt's made. Full story and details forthcoming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 Canadian? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 I remember doing ball joints on my wife's 04 forester when we got it back in 2012ish IIRC... When we did that I painted them with antiseize... this past fall we just did a full subframe refresh on her car, replacing everything that was quite rusty with some new fresh bits from WA... those ball joints were the easiest ones I've removed ever... 8yrs of daily driving it through CT and RI, and they still slid right out. Same with the lower rear lateral bolts, those came out this time like butter too... OEM ones had to be cut out, seized inside the bushings and knuckle. So many hours and fresh Subaru bolts in this car now... LOL My recent 06 project that I started on they popped right out of the knuckle with two whacks on the control arm. This car is really coming out to be everything I hoped... in the lack of rust department at least... lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 Did your wife pitch in with the work? Since you have so many hours invested, I would apply some Fluid Film or CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor on the undercarriage. Beautiful shop, btw. Is that your home or work? muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdXammo Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 That shop does have a great aesthetic. I will have rust to deal with on this one and Madrig's carbon rear quarters may be a part of that... Thanks for the tip on the Marine treatment. It was Ty Sparks who helped out and yes, it's Canadian. Both in that the 08's only went there and that it physically was there when found. I could not thank Ty enough and his willingness to help out restored a little of my faith in humanity and demonstrated the realness of community here. On that note, all of my interactions with folks I've met here have been great and that really says a lot. I'd REALLY love to see the stats on the 06-08 CA wagons if anyone knows how to pull those the way was done for the 05's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 Did your wife pitch in with the work? Since you have so many hours invested, I would apply some Fluid Film or CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor on the undercarriage. Beautiful shop, btw. Is that your home or work? Yes she did... She supervised and funded some of it... She also just went to pick up my 06 heads from Larry's Auto after he refreshed them. I do have pictures of her somewhere doing the head torque on her own engine back in 2012 when we freshened that up. She's a good sport and helps where she can. She's also a teacher so this year has been pretty chaotic for her to say the least. That's my father in laws shop, my shop isn't tall enough or thick enough slab for a full lift and my work I'm surrounded by screens and servers, I'm an IT Admin, and yes we sprayed the F out of everything with Fluid film... That was one of the other things we were in there doing. We are trying to make this car last since nothing out there these days is really peeking our interest, and honestly we don't want a new car payment. Every one of the 9 cars we own are fully paid for... and my 07 was the newest... LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 This was my home shop after setting it up, and then you can see it got really busy over the past year or so... They always start out so clean... lmao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty9 Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 haven't seen a Beretta on the road since the late 90's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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