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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I've been meaning to ask this question forever: while turning on a bumpy dirt road, I keep hearing clunking which is also felt through the steering column. I can't figure out where it is coming from. Going straight on a bumpy road does not do that. :confused:
Ball joints or Strut top bearing.
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Cleaned and lubed the Turbosmart recirc valve. Also threw the snow wheels on it and will be driving it temporarily. Steering rack on the Sequoia exploded fluid due to a combination of failed bushing, metal on metal rubbing and corrosion. I figure replacing that should be good practice for the eventual STI rack replacement on the GT
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I never ever touched the ball joints :hide:

 

 

I have the Spec B top hats on both cars. Could be it I guess. I should place a GoPro there to check.

 

 

I'd guess the ball joints. Pretty sure that's what mine is. Save yourself the headache and buy the Subaru ball joint puller, new bolts, longer bolts (m10 55 or 60mm flange head grade 10.9) and a self locking nut for when that pinch bolt breaks.

 

 

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I have repaired MANY popped spot welds in Subie firewalls. But none were an LGT. Known issue in specific model years WRX/STi. Subie even covered a few of my repairs under warranty as dealerships do not weld. Stiff aftermarket clutch pedals do not help the situation.

 

As for the sound heard, check the front sway bar. I have had a few that bent slightly and came into contact on dirt roads. The clutch issue can be heard, "click or pop" and felt (assembly travels left) when depressed. The pivot tube of the assembly cracks sometimes too. Replaced a few of those as well. I have pix somewhere.

 

 

This is what I was thinking of. Thanks!

 

 

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Woking on the 05GT winter hooptie on sunday, I was replacing the rear sway bushings and links, this caught my eye... something tells me this isn't right...

 

 

Are you talking about how the bushing sits in the arm? Pretty sure my new aluminum ones were like that. That's why they are different part numbers, otherwise the arms are identical.

 

 

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Woking on the 05GT winter hooptie on sunday, I was replacing the rear sway bushings and links, this caught my eye... something tells me this isn't right...
Yeah that's normal...

 

The condition of my inner bushing however, that is not normal... LOL

 

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Edited by B-BGTLimited
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Took apart the AVCS pulley... Holy F... So much metal everywhere in this engine. a16a88ebe17037135fb4f53c6d042ef0.jpg3c79e34b7b20b0dfed6cbfad7cbc3d3f.jpg36d0130f1f2a24482fc75db432fae1d7.jpg

 

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Normal. Only 1 shop I know of that can rebuild them. Non serviceable part per Subaru. Many builders reuse them not realizing how much damage used avcs pulleys cause.

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Not today but rebuilt rear brakes on older son's 05 OB into LGT rear brakes. His rebuilt rear calipers started to seize second time around and I wasn't about getting another (3rd) rebuilt calipers set. So... Ordered vented rear OEM LGT rotors and OEM LGT rear pads. Pulled my original rear calipers from my LGT from storage since I replaced all calipers on LGT to new units a year or so ago. Had an OEM rebuild kit for them already so rebuilt the calipers with that. Put everything together and all looks fine. Already have about 400 miles on them. Took it to DMV today and the ride was nice and quiet all the way back and forth, ~40 miles...

 

Kind of like it again how Subarus are legos, if you know what you are doing.

 

My LGT sits in the dry garage now, but I may ask Max for his shop contacts since I need the rust in rear wheel wells to be taken care of and before that I guess I need the gas smell to be addressed. My dealer ball parked something like 2-3K fr gas tank replacement and the closest body shop to me quoted like 4K for body work. Staying young looking costs one pretty penny...

Edited by SubOperator

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Correct, I really like the style and surprised I don't see them more often. They're about 17-18 pounds depending on 17' or 18' diameter choices. There's lighter options out there for sure, but they have more bland and generic looking features imo.
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Added a lip and a hood protector from craigslist for $8, score.

 

 

I like those wheels alot too! What a score on the hood protector.

 

Happy Holidays to all!

 

What I did today was have my wagon towed home.

 

After having the plugs and both valve cover gaskets changed I've driven her into and from work to burn of the excess oil 3x 175 miles total, on the way home last night I expereniced for the 1st time what you guys call misfire I think?

 

3k RPM and it was missing real bad with throttle (flashing CEL only with throttle), off the throttle and it was OK drove about 5 miles to get off the highway she was idling so rough I parked her and just got her into the garage. 139k original owner (72k on plugs) I've never had the car run this rough ( slight shaking), always perfect. Shop that did the work is closed til Mon, big bummer it was running great too! Merry Christmas to me LoL

 

What do you all think, bad coil pack/s?

Edited by JJr
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I'd also double check all the hose clamps to make sure there isn't a hose coming off, or a vac leak somewhere. Otherwise, yeah, check the ignition components on the right bank. That side sits right above and next to the uppipe, so sees more heat than the other side.

 

Edit: Oh whoops, I came in here to wish everyone a Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas if you celebrate it!

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Thanks guys, I had two breather hoses replaced too, can't rember what side it was but the long one with a sock on it was broken in half, crazy

 

Just checked the coil connections and the back passenger connector was not seated, tab must be broken, pushed it tight and the wagon is back to normal.

 

I assume I need to replace the coil or pull and ziptie the connector? Is the tab that holds the connector in place on the coil or connector? Thanks all!!

Edited by JJr
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