DougKelly20

If you're still under warranty, yes

Assuming you mean preload/backlash (valve lash has to do with the cylinder heads) it should be part of the job ... They need to do it properly. What makes the sound was the spring, which is the defective part in need of replacing, but part of doing that is making sure that when it's all back together the preload is set correctly so the steering feel is proper. I suggest a new dealer. Are you under warranty?

I had it adjusted. After it was replaced the effort was way too much, so I took it back the next day and had them put it closer to stock. I don't mind tight/heavy steering, but it was way too much.

My noise hasn't come back since 2/17/20 when it was corrected. I would get the TSB work done if I were in your shoes.

In that case that spring could be the culprit. Have them take a look and cite the steering rack TSB 04-17-17R

FWIW I had the steering rack spring replaced with the TSB for the issue, but my sounds were manifesting more as a rattle over washboard surfaces at low speeds. I was not getting any clunking when turning the wheel.

Ugh tough to see this thread has been dormant since January... Well I'll do my part. My seat bolster started cracking/tearing so I called a local specialist who has excellent reviews ....reskin of just the bolster was 399 and reskinning the entire seat was I think 649... So instead I bought an 8 dollar patch kit and the results are awesome. I didn't think to take before pictures but imagine a few small tears. Not bad for 8 bucks and 15 minutes of work.

Keep us posted... share a link??

I think this will be the stock one. OP is looking for black. For the WRX for example has a bunch of aftermarket support and we still had to get a WHOLE badge to get a black ring. If you're looking to only do a chrome delete you'll probably need to use black vinyl. I like Vvivid, but there are plenty of brands out there. You could see if the WRX and Foresters have the same sized badges...maybe someone on the forums has both? Either way I don't think you can buy JUST the ring, especially not in black.

https://www.koyorad.com/search.asp Haven't measured the thickness vs stock yet, so this might just be an OE style replacement... What is your use case? Stock is fine for the street but not the track. I'm considering and oil cooler if I decide to keep tracking... Custom radiator seems like the most arduous way to solve the issue.

Your arrogant comments about your experience and telling people to learn to drive are unnecessary.

Very true on all points...yet with all other things being equal (as I mentioned prior to changing my setup everything was fully stock, properly aligned and inflated to factory spec) over inflation should cause tires to wear more in the middle and under inflation on BOTH edges (alignment factors like improper camber would wear only one edge) We bought a used WRX last year that was properly aligned but inflated 5-8 PSI over stock (which is also 33/32) and it has 1 to 1.5 mm lower tread on the middle so we lowered them. I'm just saying to the highway handling issue that mine handled like garbage at 42 PSI and ONLY changing inflation was a huge help.

Yeah you should be nowhere near max inflation. Mine was at 42 PSI on stock tires and the car was on its tip toes. At 33/32 cold in non winter conditions they ran at 35/34 while warm/hot and not only did it handle correctly, but the tire wear was even across the tire, so to me, that's the correct setting. Of course then I went up to 245/45, upped the load index to 100 from 95, dropped the pressures based on a load index chart provided by ammcinnis, and took it to the track so my current settings notwithstanding, when I WAS stock, the manu settings felt appropriate, and the evidence that they WERE appropriate was the even tire wear.

HBA can be turned off by selecting ON on the light stalk. When it's in auto HBA is on and when it's ON HBA is off. When I first purchased my 2019 3.6R it was super floaty on the highway. I found my tires were over inflated from the factory (or more likely by the dealership). Once that was corrected it was better. However it got much better when I upgraded the RSB and put a Strut bar in the front. I have a spare strut bar if you want it but with shipping from NY to WA you're probably better off buying your own brand new.

Tough not to do an exhaust on a flat 6.... Sounds so good at WOT.

How do the others go Silverton? 9 and 3 it's the tie rod and 2 and 8 it's the ball joint?

Sorry I see that no one has responded to you. When it comes to vinyl wrapping the process can be painstaking and takes some practice. I once asked my tint guy if he'd wrap my chrome trim. He said no...it wouldn't be perfect and he'd have to charge me tons in labor. So I did it myself and found out why. It took me 10 hours. Most of it have lasted almost 3 years through touch free car washes and NY winters. I say all that to encourage you....the interior won't be as bad. I couldn't...or rather didn't, remove the exterior trim....I wish I had. With the interior you definitely could and then wrap it yourself. There are tons of videos on how to do it and the tools aren't expensive at all. If you screw it up just heat it up and peel it off and start over. I wouldn't consider myself patient, handy, crafty or anything remotely like that but I did it and if you can invest a weekend on it you'll save hundreds of dollars and learn a new skill. That said....maybe you can talk a regular body shop into doing it for you, likely for stupid money.

Seems like most of the battery issues were fixed by the 2018 model year, I doubt you'll have issues.

I tried uploading but it was a trainwreck....email me at kellyent@gmail.com and I'll send it. I would say it's a 6 or 7 out of 10 on the loudness scale ....10 being a straight piped V8 and 3 being an Nvidia Q300, 1 being stock. It's roughly equivalent to an invidia R400 but not nearly as loud as a tomei or anything titanium. You will get a little drone, and it will have a loud cold start but unless your neighbors are real sensitive I think you'll like it. Definitely don't get the muffler delete.

Yeah it seems like most of the issues that they had got ironed out by 2018/19. I bought my 19 new and we had an 18 between WRXs after our accident for a year and they've both been solid. Most complaints seem to come from the early models which is typical for every manufacturer.

FWIW my local dealership, which has always done right by us, recommended a full flush when I asked them which Subaru said between D&F and flush. I flushed proactively at 48K while having a CVT cooler installed because mine sees track duty. It was fine before but even smoother after. If I were you I'd bite the bullet and have it properly flushed by a dealer and hopefully they will still honor the warranty if something goes wrong before 100k because you took it in in good faith to have it done properly.

Nothing wrong with CVTs in general. We've owned 5 cars all with that high torque TR690 CVT and not a single problem with any of them. Granted they were traded or wrecked for other reasons all before 70k. On my 3.6R I have had a flush at 60k due to track use. It's also modified and tuned. Our other legacy and 3 WRXs were not. I recommended a flush assuming it was not already done. I doubt they will go for it but maybe try to make your deal contingent on them doing it if it has never been done because it's pretty expensive. The 3.6R works very well with the CVT, better than the WRXs by far IMO. If you maintain it, I'm sure you'll be very happy w it. Others have had issues with valve bodies and some have had replacements under warranty. Some recommended against the flush but I'm not a believer in "lifetime fluids"

Well all those lights are on all the time for me except the eyesight and if you have frost in front of the cameras that would explain that. You'll have to be more specific. Is that illumination wheel scrolled to all the way on? If your car isn't fully off and all those are on that could be the culprit. Otherwise I see nothing out of the ordinary for an 8 degree day with my least favorite safety garbage turned off.

I have a very small amount in that area but it looks more like diff oil to me. In your case I would clean the whole area and check back in a week to see if there is any indication where it's coming from. That TSB addresses trans seepage, then calls out CVT, then lists a bunch of cars without them after you said it was likely engine oil so I'm sure it's going to apply.

Limited-time deal: GOOACC 100PCS 7mm 8mm 10mm Compatible with Subaru Push Type Retainer Fasteners Rivets Clips OEM Upgrade for 90914-0007, 90913-0067 & 90914-0051 + Bonus Fastener Remover https://a.co/d/0AHBqUb