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KILLER deal on Lower control arms


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You guys must not know how this works... Buy now, ask questions later...:lol:

 

 

If it was a price mistake, they would have fixed it yesterday when he posted

 

That exactly what I did, even though I don't really need them since I have whiteline LCA bushings already :lol:

 

Wait, and these are ~8lbs a piece? I guess the $250 pricetag on aluminum spec bits isn't so worth it anymore...

 

Now $8 dollars? Sure!

 

Sent from my XT1028

 

This is my take exactly on aluminum parts. The steal parts are sheet metal bent and welded, thus are hollow but strong. Aluminum has to be fully filled to retain the same strength thus the weight difference is so negligible it doesn't really matter.

 

I know reducing unsprung weight is exponentially better then reducing sprung weight, but we are talking about 4 lbs here, going to coilovers will save you more weight :lol:

 

Do you have a bathroom / human scale? Weigh yourself holding the control arm, then weigh yourself without it. Subtract the two numbers and voila. I do that to calculate shipping all the time. Human scales are accurate within a lb or two.

 

Mine should be arriving today, I will weigh them on a professional shippers scale once I get them.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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This is my take exactly on aluminum parts. The steal parts are sheet metal bent and welded, thus are hollow but strong. Aluminum has to be fully filled to retain the same strength thus the weight difference is so negligible it doesn't really matter.

 

I know reducing unsprung weight is exponentially better then reducing sprung weight, but we are talking about 4 lbs here, going to coilovers will save you more weight :lol:

 

Mine should be arriving today, I will weigh them on a professional shippers scale once I get them.

 

IMO 4lbs is a lot when you're talking about unsprung weight, and for these prices it's great bang for the buck... not saying you have to go out and buy Dura lugs to save a few ozs, but shaving 50% on a major suspension component is huge. Aluminum also takes rust out of the equation, which is nice for folks who drive their cars in the winter.

 

I felt an immediate difference after switching to JDM aluminum LCAs in my Impreza, most noticeably over uneven road surfaces. Bumps and potholes are minimized, as the suspension reacts faster and with less of a THUD. Combine this with lighter wheels, and coilovers like you said, and you can loose >20lbs per corner. That's serious weight around the whole car, unsprung or not. And it'll feel like the car is wearing track shoes rather than Timberlands :)

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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IMO 4lbs is a lot when you're talking about unsprung weight, and for these prices it's great bang for the buck... not saying you have to go out and buy Dura lugs to save a few ozs, but shaving 50% on a major suspension component is huge. Aluminum also takes rust out of the equation, which is nice for folks who drive their cars in the winter.

 

I felt an immediate difference after switching to JDM aluminum LCAs in my Impreza, most noticeably over uneven road surfaces. Bumps and potholes are minimized, as the suspension reacts faster and with less of a THUD. Combine this with lighter wheels, and coilovers like you said, and you can loose >20lbs per corner. That's serious weight around the whole car, unsprung or not. And it'll feel like the car is wearing track shoes rather than Timberlands :)

 

It all depends on what the purpose of your car is. If it's a race car, then yes, if it's an occasional racing car then maybe, but if it's a daily then the money spent is a waste (assuming full prices of course). At $45 for two arms the only thing that's stopping me form installing mine today is they don't have whiteline caster bushings in them :lol:, and well the whole aftermarket arm deal :spin:. Which it might be OEM arms with new bushings...

 

Also if your concerned about unsprung weight, go with some 15's. On my FWD car I gained 15lbs per side by going to 17's and wider tires because I wanted more traction. Going to 15's from stock 17's will save you about the same amount, and traction is not a concern because AWD so some 205's would be fine :).

 

there keeps being talk of reducing weight at the corners, but no LGT's are switching over to the smaller OBXT brakes.... :rolleyes:

 

You just want the FS to be flooded with cheap LGT brakes for yourself. :lol:

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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It all depends on what the purpose of your car is. If it's a race car, then yes, if it's an occasional racing car then maybe, but if it's a daily then the money spent is a waste (assuming full prices of course)...

Also if your concerned about unsprung weight, go with some 15's. On my FWD car I gained 15lbs per side by going to 17's and wider tires because I wanted more traction. Going to 15's from stock 17's will save you about the same amount, and traction is not a concern because AWD so some 205's would be fine :).

 

By that measure, any money spent on these things is a waste, isn't it? Does anybody need to spend 500 bucks to gain 30hp? No, but plenty of people do it for the sake of enjoyment, or bragging rights, or whatever. Same thing with suspension mods.

 

I'm running the smallest and lightest wheels my brakes will allow, 15"s aren't an option :lol:

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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You guys crack me up, this killer deal is over and now you guys are taking about different size rims. :spin::lol:

 

 

Sorry, sometimes ya just lose interest and get side trac--LOOK A SQUIRREL!

 

 

Sent from somewhere in Potatoland

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By that measure, any money spent on these things is a waste, isn't it? Does anybody need to spend 500 bucks to gain 30hp? No, but plenty of people do it for the sake of enjoyment, or bragging rights, or whatever. Same thing with suspension mods.

 

I'm running the smallest and lightest wheels my brakes will allow, 15"s aren't an option :lol:

 

I used to buy things just to buy them, $100 part that increases .5hp or reduces 1lb, but nowdays I'm a little more realistic and consider cost per HP or cost per LB reduction, this is why I'm actually fine with stock LGT arms (Plus I can press the bushings in my garage without worrying about damaging them).

 

But your right a lot of car mods are about bragging rights, I guess I'm becoming more and more function over form as I get older. :lol:

 

You guys crack me up, this killer deal is over and now you guys are taking about different size rims. :spin::lol:

 

:lol: At least it's suspension related and about reducing unsprung weight (which is what these arms accomplish too)

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Got my arms, weighted one them on our shipping scale at work (has to be accurate to keep USPS/UPS/Fedex happy).

 

It's 6.5lbs (6lbs 8oz) with ball joint and without bolt and washer.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=216901&stc=1&d=1443018798

 

Compare that to stock: 7lbs 14oz

 

Savings of 1lb 6oz per arm.

2034236521_MevotechCMS80182Weight6_5lbs.thumb.jpg.f25e808f5c91a09d35fad5b47c0a7f98.jpg

Edited by covertrussian

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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Got my arms, weighted one them on our shipping scale at work (has to be accurate to keep USPS/UPS/Fedex happy).

 

It's 6.5lbs (6lbs 8oz) with ball joint and without bolt and washer.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=216901&stc=1&d=1443018798

 

Compare that to stock: 7lbs 14oz

 

Savings of 1lb 6oz per arm.

 

 

So I can get the same weight saving if I fill my tires with helium instead of regular air, right? ;)

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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15's won't clear lgt rotors as far as I know. But yes that is a good way to save weight

 

Make that, won't clear the calipers.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So, anyone stuck these on yet? The only thing holding me back is I know those bastard ball joint pinch bolts are going to break, and I don't want to buy new knuckles.

 

No need to buy new knuckles, if your bolt breaks you can drill it out and then use a longer bolt, lock washer, and nut and then it will never again be stuck :lol:

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Suspension/Lower%20Ball%20Joint/20141116_163114.jpg~original

 

Also if your lucky and the bolt doesn't break (don't bet on it, both of my legacy bolts broke), it's much easier to pop the ball joint out of socket while the knuckle is on the car. On my FXT (somehow magically bolts didn't break), I was able to easily pop the ball joints out with a prybar. While on the legacy I had to cut the ball joint to slivers to get it out.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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