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You do have teflon tape for those threads right?
Well they're just test assembled now, but I had planned on using permeated high temp thread sealant. Would teflon tape be better?

 

keep up the fine work, turk.

 

did you go with a 20g?

Thanks :) I went with a 68HTA.
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I've alway's liked the teflon pipe tape better. I use 3 to 4 wraps and snug the fitting. I've used it on the oil pressure fittings on the race motors and at work have done proof pressure test over 5000psi using it to seal pipe threads.

 

It's cheap and easy to use, no mess.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Prosport adapter came Monday, looks good. Should be tall enough above the block to get the 45* -4AN fitting in, but we'll see how it works out. May mock it up on the old block.

 

 

And then this little guy showed up. :)

 

http://i.imgur.com/7jaRjb1l.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/dBiSAlXl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/hIdrXsJl.jpg

 

:wub::wub::wub:

 

This morning my wife asked me if I was going to carry the box around everywhere... I just said, "I don't expect you to understand our love..." and walked out the door.

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TMIC (AVO). I'd like to stay under the TMIC with the oil line.

 

The top port (and the reason I'm using a tee at all) is for an oil pressure gauge. Still haven't sourced one yet. Not sure if I'll just use something like [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OUZBZ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER]this[/ame] just to verify things during the initial startup and run, or purchase an actual gauge for in the car...

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Looking at gauges...

 

The AEM gauge is a little spendy at $199, but it would almost match my Failsafe WBO2.

 

Innovate and VEI both make dual gauges for cheaper, I could do both pressure and temp for ~$165 or ~$136 respectively.

 

Any other thoughts? <shrug>

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Side note, This banjo/NPT bolt is an interesting concept, wonder if the thread is the same...

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/226378_x600.jpg

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/ES11178/

 

 

*EDIT*

For future reference - M12x1.5

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within reason, the cost of the gauge is immaterial. Its the quality and readability of the information provided that's important. A dual purpose gauge that alerts you when things are starting to go wrong is all that matters. Oddly enough, that's why idiot lights are so popular.

 

My $2000 racecar computer has a ton of data that could be/is displayed. However, at speed, I can't really see it. I do see that red blinding LED go off that tells me my water temperature level just went super-critical.

 

If you have the option of mounting the gauges other than vertical, rotate them so the operating temp is at top. Anything to the right or left will catch your eye as being out of acceptable range.

 

If you can find one with memory and/or led warning dot, so much the better. This is where the additional dollars start to come into play.

 

1 engine, 2 transmissions, and a number "Oh, damm, that KillerB setup saved me again" incidents later, the wagon still has the gauges that came from the factory. 22k miles later, I haven't really seen the need to change it.

 

On the miata, the huge amount of data and associated idiot lights have saved my engine more time than I can count.

 

YMMV...

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It's from another phase 2 5MT tranny center diff. AFAIK Subaru doesn't consider them to be serviceable so I didn't look for a spec. Is there one?

 

Not for the center diff itself, but per the FSM, measure the clearance between the snap ring and inner race of the Drive Gear ball bearing with a thickness gauge. Clearance specs are: 0.0004 — 0.0059 in. If the measurement is not within specification, select the appropriately-sized snap ring and replace it. Difference size specs P/Ns below:

 

 

1458049968_TransferDriveGearBallBearingSnapRingThicknessMeasurement.jpg.a279d416d3a5873e57d61122c9395d63.jpg

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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As for the gauges, check out ProSport gauges. They are just as good as the big boys at half the cost. I'm running the ProSport boost and oil pressure gauges in mine and haven't had a single issue. I believe I spent around $80 for both of them.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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TL, while your transmission is out do you have any desire to firm up the shifter linkage bushings while your transmission is out? I bought a set of the TiC shifter linkage bushings, and doing a benchtop install I decided to only install 2 of the four, one for each linkage. I tried all four and they added a lot of resistance to the movement of the linkage, but just using 2 simply cleaned up any movement.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I bought Kartboy F&R bushings I'm going to put in, didn't realize how sopngy the stock ones were till I took them out. :)

 

Yeah, I'm talking about different bushings. The ones I'm talking about are for this part:

 

http://turninconcepts.com/instructions/subaru/shift_linkage_bushings/images/resize_0043.jpg

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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