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Any reason for MAP vs ARP bolts? And if you follow the FSM steps, you'll do fine. Take your time and check your specs as you go. Rocket science it's not, fun it is. I have every confidence in you young Padawan.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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KCwagon had them FS in the classifieds, saved ~$40. Helped me get the Killer B pickup. :)

 

I plan to have someone else reading me the instructions and checking them off as I go.

 

 

 

 

Boring update...

Returned the turbo inlet and crossover pipe yesterday (both are fine) and placed what I hope is my last order for the build. Discovered I could snap the CLIC clamps shut with a side cutter, so I think I'm going to skip the special tool and/or worm clamps. May pick up and end nipper from HF as I think that would work just great for cheap.

 

Checked in with Bryan@BNR and the engine builder and both will be starting in the next couple days. I'm anxious to get the stuff here, but realistically I've got a lot of stuff I should/could do in the meantime.

 

-Clean up all the engine parts (wish I had a little blast cabinet)

-Replace the shift shaft seal in the tranny

-Black epoxy paint the calipers and brackets

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Another minor update...

 

I picked up the heads Monday. 4 new valves and the #4 combustion chamber looks pretty good. I should've grabbed a pic - there are still some indentations in the newly decked surface, but there aren't any sharp edges to cause detonation, or at least that's what they told me... Price came out really close to his estimate at $324. notbad.jpg

 

Went over to a buddy's place to work on the TGVs last night. Tried using his drill press to mill out the divider plate - that worked ok, but what wound up being the best method was a plain ol' hacksaw. Took the blade off and re-assembled through the TGV housing, then just carefully sawed through the divider. Much more control than the drill or die grinder. After that he TIG'd the rod holes closed. A little bit more work with the die grinder and Dremel and they should be good to go.

 

http://i.imgur.com/ii5uuwOl.jpg

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Couple questions...

 

I know I'm going forged pistons and will probably be fine, but has anyone ever tried done anything in particular to #4 to reduce the chance of failure? Reduce compression? Colder plug? I know people will often put their highest volume injector there...

 

I'm surprised no one has come up with an electronic TGV dummy harness. One that plugs in directly between the motor and sensor and fakes the TGVs operating normally. It would be a simple circuit to build I'm sure, and a lot better than these goofy things for people that don't want to delete them in the tune...

 

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i123/vladz1/IMG_2031.jpg

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A proper tune will save #4 and #2.

 

My engine had been on Cobb AP since 8000 miles. At 154,000 miles all the valves were fine. They are still in the heads.

 

I also run one step colder plugs, because they are cheaper. Some on here will only use the standard plug, me, I saved $10.00, Kind of like some say they only run the standard studs to hold the turbo on, me, I found it much easier to bolt the turbo on the up pipe.

 

I used OEM bolts that hold the up pipe to the block.

 

It made it much easier to line up the "new" oil return hose, inlet hose and up pipe all at the same time.

 

Finding easier way's to do things is what I do at work, I'm just lazy...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Kind of like some say they only run the standard studs to hold the turbo on, me, I found it much easier to bolt the turbo on the up pipe.

 

I used OEM bolts that hold the up pipe to the block.

 

It made it much easier to line up the "new" oil return hose, inlet hose and up pipe all at the same time.

I think I might actually do that one, especially since I'm reusing my turbo inlet. Great idea!
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I think I might actually do that one, especially since I'm reusing my turbo inlet. Great idea!

 

 

Yea, when I cut the inlet putting the vf52 on at 142,000 miles, I said next time that will be different, there has to be a better way.

 

My buddies at the dealer parts counter, gave me the bolts.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'm thinking that looks like 1/4" vac line fittings? In which case I'll need a couple reducers to get down to the EBCS lines... Looks like the turbo should get here Tuesday.

 

More stuff on the way too. I've decided I want to feed the turbo from the oil galley near the PCV, so I've got some fittings coming from Amazon and Prosport to accomplish that. I'll find some place under the intercooler to mount the filter. I plan to run the turbo banjo fitting 180* so the line doesn't contact the wastegate actuator rod any more. Should work just as well and be a little more stealthy. Going to order the lower timing belt cover seal and some bolts to mount the turbo to the up pipe like Byron suggested today. :)

 

I would love to do an oil pressure gauge, but damn they're expensive for what they do. Considering just getting a tester type one just to monitor the first few startups...

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Sandwich adapter at the oil filter, run both oil pressure and oil temperature from there. That's how the STI Defi ones do it. Then just run the wires to the dash and connect your gauges there.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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No, other than I like (read: require) to know what my oil temps are and that's the easiest way to do both. Harder to do that with the oil galley.

 

GReddy has an adapter and the senders are easily sourced to make it a quick, easy install. More info here

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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http://i.imgur.com/3XTl6RCl.jpg

 

Just waiting on the Prosport oil galley adapter.

 

STi FPCM finally came too, it'll be a while before I can test it back-to-back with the stock unit.

 

Thermal Zero up pipe blanket came, looks nice. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

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