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New Short Block Time...


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94,xxx.

 

I bought the car with an Invidia up pipe and stock everything else. Previous owner had no idea it wasn't 100% stock, so who knows what had been done to it before that. There was also a hole in the back of the cubby pod, so I assume one of the previous owners had some gauge in there too. I'd guess it was stage 2 at some point, but who knows.

 

I took it stage 2 for a while, then stage 3. I drive it pretty hard and have been to the track a few times. Not really surprized/mad that it's broken, shit happens, especially when upgraded.

 

I'll have to look into speed density, that might be interesting. I need to research some more 68HTA builds too.

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FWIW, my Tuner, has been tring to talk me into a 68HTA for years.

 

email him or contact him here. He may have some good info for you.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/tuning-alliance-121.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update...

 

 

SMFW, CM FX300 & TSK3 have arrived from Infamous, as have the MAP head studs from KCwagon. :)

 

Second order from Infamous should be here tomorrow with timing kit, water pump, gaskets galore, a STi oil pump and thermostat. Dealer order should be in tomorrow too - stuff I may or may not need including turbo inlet, coolant line, & turbo oil drain.

 

Mailed a cashier's check to BNR today for the 68HTA. That pretty much does it for the cash budget, the rest will go on credit till I sell the 16g, stock clutch & shortblock core. :(

 

 

 

 

Questions:

 

1. Are there any good walkthroughs for shortblock R&R? I've read through MaxCapacity and B-BGTLimited's threads, but neither one are really a walk through per se...

 

2. Oil cooler. I know it's probably a good idea, but if my turbo oil line filter and banjo bolt filters are clean am I OK to reuse it?

 

3. Any guides as far as what sealant and/or lube to use where? RTV/assembly lube/engine oil/anti-seize/thread locker/thread sealer... :confused:

 

4. Break in. I found this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-way-break-engine-if-anyi-179455.html, good info? Most recommend no boost - new turbo will have an upgraded actuator and will probably do 15# even with zeroed out WGDC. Disconnect the arm? Just drive like a grandma (not in my nature)?

 

5. Porting the exhaust manifolds and/or the IWG. Worth it?

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I reused my oil cooler. Have you seen your old oil return and coolant crossover pipe and hoses. When you do, I'm sure you'll replace them.

 

I have both banjo filters removed. I use a great oil filter.

 

 

To remove the engine is fairly straight forward. A few day's before, go out to the car, open the hood, look around and you'll see what needs to be done. Make a list. Think about what needs to come apart. If you have the tools, it's pretty simple.

 

Do you have the tools and engine hoist ?

 

I used Permatex Anti Seize on every nut and bolt I installed. Be carefull the stuff gets everywhere. I still have gray stains on the plastic pieces from my gloves.

 

For break in, you want a little boost and very the rpm. Just no constant speed.

 

Don't port the exhaust manifold, NASIOC has a good thread on doing or not doing that. Don't waste your time and money.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Pull fuel pump fuse, start engine till it dies.

 

things to disconnect.

battery

fuel lines from the left shock tower, easier then the QD's.

big electrical connector on right shock tower.

unbolt AC lay it over the left fender, tie it there.

alternator, remove it.

PS lay it over the right fender, tie it there.

TMIC, starter, DP, tranny bolts.

Drain coolant remove radiator.

ground wires, all of them.

 

If I think of more I'll add them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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99% sure we're going to pull the engine this weekend. Got the shop ready, borrowing an engine hoist and stand, got 6 jack stands, two floor jacks and a pile of parts.

 

I don't have a transmission jack, but I saw in one of the youtube videos that the guy just held it up a bit with a jack stand. Ok plan? I'm hoping the block and bell housing separate easy enough - it was apart 18k ago for the OEM clutch replacement. Not looking forward to the transmission shift shaft seal replacement - looks like a major PITA.

 

Need to get it hauled up to my father-in-law's shop. I have AAA which will cover towing, but I want to make a pit-stop at a car wash so it's clean to work on while we're leaning over the fenders, etc. Things I didn't order and am hoping are reusable :lol:: upper and lower radiator hoses, oil cooler, fuel injector o-rings, oil pan gasket, oil pickup, clamps, bolts, etc. I'm sure I'll be running to the dealer for something...

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Make a cradle out of wood (2x2) to set the transmission in, and use your jack to hold up against it.

 

Top radiator hoses typically don't go bad (direct quote from my SMM). Bottom ones, replace at the 80-100K mark, unless it's had a lot of exposure to oil, dirt, salt, grime, etc, then sooner would be the call.

 

If you had bearing "issues", I'd be suspect of the oil cooler as they are a known trap and release for metal bits. And as long as you're pulling the pan, why not replace the oil pick up tube with a KillerBee or other version?

 

GLWY replacement.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Make a cradle out of wood (2x2) to set the transmission in, and use your jack to hold up against it.

 

Top radiator hoses typically don't go bad (direct quote from my SMM). Bottom ones, replace at the 80-100K mark, unless it's had a lot of exposure to oil, dirt, salt, grime, etc, then sooner would be the call.

 

If you had bearing "issues", I'd be suspect of the oil cooler as they are a known trap and release for metal bits. And as long as you're pulling the pan, why not replace the oil pick up tube with a KillerBee or other version?

 

GLWY replacement.

Ok, that sounds good.

 

I'll take a close look at my Infamous turbo line filter & banjo bolt filters. If they're full of metal bits I'll get the cooler. I thought about the Killer B pickup, but the budget's getting a little thin. Maybe if I find a buyer for my 16g quickly. I plan to take a real good look at the stocker before putting it back in if I do.

 

Thanks. :)

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Is your 05 a early 05 or was it made late in 2005 ?

 

The oil pick up tube in the late 05 seem to have the tube issues. My 05 was built in May 04, I reused the oil tube.

The tranny can stay in the car. I left mine in.

 

The injectors stay in the TGV's which stay attached tot he intake manifold.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4741.jpg

 

Remember to tight the gas line clamps, and clean all the grounds, grease the starter shaft and the input shaft where the TOB slides and the pilot bearing.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Is your 05 a early 05 or was it made late in 2005 ?
Door tag says 05/04 - is that May '04 or April '05? I never know with dates from other countries...

 

The tranny can stay in the car. I left mine in.

 

The injectors stay in the TGV's which stay attached tot he intake manifold.

 

Remember to tight the gas line clamps, and clean all the grounds, grease the starter shaft and the input shaft where the TOB slides and the pilot bearing.

Yeah, I have to replace the leaking shift shaft seal so I probably at least have to drop it a bit to get access. :/

 

I'll be deleting and porting the TGVs (might as well, right?), so they'll come out.

 

I cleaned and lubed my bendix last time it was out, and it still hangs up a bit, may try another type of lube.

 

 

Thanks guys :)

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VIN guide says the last 6 are the "sequential production number", and mine are 315005.

 

Picked up a couple fender protectors, wire brushes, socket universals and extensions from Harbor Freight over lunch. Going to see if I can get the car up to the shop tonight. :)

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Yes mine say's 05/04. May of 2004.

 

VIN guide says the last 6 are the "sequential production number", and mine are 315005.

 

mine last six are 315760

 

Mine is 319005, ordered in June 04, delivered Aug 04.

If your build date was May 04, it would be a 3rd gen, not 4th gen.

 

The VIN is sequential based on the first 8 digits. The 9th is a check digit.

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http://i.imgur.com/B7AQeSfl.jpg

 

 

Findings so far...

 

Missing nut on DP

Upside-down stud in UP

UP nut not not tight

UP bracket bolt not tight

 

And then some interesting ones...

 

Infamous oil line filter element

http://i.imgur.com/uw6iN4gl.jpg

 

UP weld crack

http://i.imgur.com/9LSGGhUl.jpg

 

#4 plug gap mashed shut

http://i.imgur.com/HCSrTTYl.jpg

 

I hope the head looks ok, may try to tear the block down tomorrow...

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I couple loose nuts and bolts is normal.

 

The cracked pipe can be welded.

 

Yep #4 plug doesn't look so good.

 

Isn't that inline filter replaceable ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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