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Do you also have a17mm deep 12 point 1/2" drive.

 

I have heard good things about the some of the tools from Harbor Fright too. But 90% of my tools are Craftsman.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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You'll find a use for it. I also have a 14mm 12 point that I keep too. I find uses for them.

 

Sometimes the 17mm deep help get into places like the tranny nut's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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hf stuff works pretty good. I bought a full set of tools from them, planning to replace broken stuff with higher end tools. So far, I'm still on the original set. That said, my 1/2 inch socket/wrench set came from Sears. I've always used an 18" long 1/2" breaker bar. If that doesn't cut it, I add the jack handle from the floor jack.
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Nice thing about our motors is that you don't need a lot of special tools to do the job. I don't recal buying any special tools when I did my motor, I was able to jimmy rig most, like using an old timing belt and vise grips to hold the cam gears firm while breaking the bolt.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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should have said hand tools, jacks, and jack stands. Power tools are dewalt. Even my battery powered impact wrench is dewalt (one power pack lasted 2 days at track)

 

I was looking at the DeWalt impact (DCF889), but it's only rated for 300 ft-lbs (less than the air one I'm having trouble with) and the air one I'm looking at is rated for 780. I have heard annecdotally that the electric ones are great though, so I dunno...

 

Nice thing about our motors is that you don't need a lot of special tools to do the job. I don't recal buying any special tools when I did my motor, I was able to jimmy rig most, like using an old timing belt and vise grips to hold the cam gears firm while breaking the bolt.
Yup, did that too. :) So far I think the sockets I bought today are the only thing so far...
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I buy a lot of HF tools to carry with me when I go to salvage yard or track because I could lose a whole set of HF sockets rather than a single Snap On for the cost...LOL

 

I have Snap On 1/2" cordless impact and I use it but I hate it. The damn thing has way too much torque and can snap bolts off pretty easily. I also have a Craftsman 3/8" 18V cordless and I love that thing. Enough but not too much torque. It will change wheels and also do small things without breaking them. The trigger control is very good and the wrench with an extra battery was on sale at Sears for $105.00 complete. How could I not buy it? LOL

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I was looking at the DeWalt impact (DCF889), but it's only rated for 300 ft-lbs (less than the air one I'm having trouble with) and the air one I'm looking at is rated for 780. I have heard annecdotally that the electric ones are great though, so I dunno...

 

Yup, did that too. :) So far I think the sockets I bought today are the only thing so far...

if your air tools are having issues, its cfm & psi that's problematic. I crank my compressor to max psi and still have troubles with some bolts. Pblaster and aforementioned breaker bar jack handle were only solution.

if you can find 6point sockets, they have vest leverage. Hooked up to a capable gun with patience will eventually free it. Be sure to use the pblaster like stuff, too. I had to do a suspension bolt soaking for 3 days before I could get it to move.

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I've always used an 18" long 1/2" breaker bar. If that doesn't cut it, I add the jack handle from the floor jack.

 

Haven't broken my Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar yet, but with my big, thick floor jack handle on it, it's flexed more than the law ought to allow. Felt sure it was going to give out at the joint on more than one occasion. Pretty tough bar, and I never have to worry about the jack handle flexing or worse, bending. That thing feels like it's made out of 3/16"-thick rolled steel.

 

if your air tools are having issues, its cfm & psi that's problematic.

 

A good air gun needs at least 5 CFM and 90PSI to operate. They are much happier (and torquier) @ 7-10 CFM and 135PSI. On a good gun, you can typically dial-down the airflow and make it more manageable, but if you don't have enough flow, then it gets frustrating. Open up your compressor and let it bellow (within reason) to optimize your air tool's performance. And, if you can't do that, get a good heavy-duty 110V electric version.

 

if you can find 6point sockets, they have vest leverage. Hooked up to a capable gun with patience will eventually free it. Be sure to use the pblaster like stuff, too. I had to do a suspension bolt soaking for 3 days before I could get it to move.

 

Six-points all the way. Yeah, you might have that one or two moments when you can't get it on a nut or bolt, so keep a set of 12-points handy to initially get it going, then switch back to the 6-point. But if you want to keep your nut/bolt heads "un-stripped", stick with 6-points.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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It could be the air gun too, I had this problem before and it turned out to be the air gun and not the compressor. Of course it was a HF air gun, then I bought a Craftsman gun and haven't had a problem since. Just a thought.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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I always view that as an opportunity to buy some accessories to go with it. As long as it all comes in the house in the same bag, it usually works out ok.

:lol::lol: And then she sees the receipt and says...."What the hell, you said only $100, not $300!!!!"

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Nice....I think you win the prize for the largest piece of piston to break off.

 

The head is fixable, so don't worry. The valves appear to be ok from this side.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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