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Koni Yellow Sport Shocks - 2010+ Legacy Fitment


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You don't really need adjustable rear lower control arms.

 

It does help when you are trying to dial in your suspension understeer/oversteer/tire-roll/(fill in the blank)

Rad. Thats what I thought. I'll be installing the eibachs on friday.

 

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You may get slightly more wear on the inside of the rear tires. Just keep an eye on it.

 

Again, the downside is that you may end up fighting understeer.

 

It is all a process. Your springs and shocks are your first hurdle.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Any more information on the new konis Gteaser?

 

 

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Sorry, been on vacation for the last few days and had a very busy week last week. Will try to get something up tonight.

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crap, i have mine slid down as well. i bet i can get to them with the struts on the car...

 

Since my car was the first set of Koni's I built, mine are actually slid down to the cut on the top of the strut tube too. LOL! And I have been driving like that for the last 3 years. The first set I built for someone else, I realized the correct orientation of the rubber sleeve and installed those correctly. It's probably going to be very difficult to get them to slide up into place with the springs and dust boots installed. I wouldn't be suprised if it was impossible.

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crap, i have mine slid down as well. i bet i can get to them with the struts on the car...

In the cut-a-strut video they show them moving them down, but there is certainly a groove for it! Makes sense now that big look at it. Still covers the whole thing

 

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is anyone running koni yellows w/ 13-14 springs? i want to upgrade my shocks but am not looking to go any lower on these frost heave infested roads.

 

I run 2014 springs with Koni's. Its an incredible combo. The car rides as good, if not better then with the 2011 strut/spring combo I had but handles like a sports sedan should. As for drop, see below

 

2011 Struts/Springs

1121160902a.jpg.90ef7b549a697e486a6e202b90083933.jpg

 

Koni Yellows/2014 Springs

New.thumb.jpg.87d2d218e22953c91504d32f2ce109d4.jpg

 

My current settings are 1/2 turn front, full soft rear. Honestly I don't need it any stiffer.

Edited by Golferdude1087
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sweet!! i'll probably just struggle thru winter with this setup but I'm going to buy the koni front inserts now ti make sure i get a pair before they all disappear

 

Lets be fair, if theres plenty of snow you won't be able to use the koni's much over the stocks. You're going to slide around the turns anyway. lol

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My Experience with the Koni and H&R combo...plus a lesson learned.

 

This may be more relevant to you non-USA 5th Gen owners, and perhaps more about the springs rather than the Koni's, but what the hell I've posted mostly in this thread so its an update to all that have followed.

 

So the Koni's are pure magic and I love them, the inserts were easy and everything about installing was straight forward. Many thanks to GTeaser for his info!

 

My issues have been with the H&R springs, specifically the rear. Outside the USA you get one choice for the 5th Gen - part# 29167-2, advertised to be suited to both BM & BR.

Immediately upon install I noticed a pronounced rear up rake which I did not like (just ask GTeaser!). Now the EE20 up front is slightly heavier than the EJ, so I expected a little nose down, but looking at every one else's photos the front gap is actually about the same.

 

Fast forward 3000km, the rear settled more but still not level (or 8mm lower as per FSM) with the front and rake still very obvious.

GTeaser and I came to the conclusion that due to BM & BR rear end weight difference, there is no 'one size fits all' regarding 29167-2, better suited to BR for sure.

 

Since I was looking to realign camber at the rear, I bought some Hardrace LCA's that have additional hub mounting holes for even lower ride height, fixed the rake problem straight away and got my camber back too.

 

Now for the lesson, after installing the springs in the first instance, I reset the bushes as I've done in every car I've ever lowered. But, since the drop was minimal I didn't think to reset again after the springs began to settle. They had been in tension nearly the whole time and effectively jacking the rear up! Man I feel stupid.

 

After all this drama, the net result is my happiness right here....

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161127/7aa33f45ec66877501bf844edef2c348.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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