Zee199969 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I was talking to a recent koni yellow purchaser (he's on the board and will prolly see this) but he was shocked how easy it was to push the piston down on the struts, apparently easier then the stockers. Is this normal? wouldn't a sport strut be stiffer? The strut was likely set to the loosest of settings. Mine were set that way out of the box. Also, its not how easy the strut is pushed down but how much it resists being pulled back. The springs kinda dictate more how much the suspension compresses My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 It just has to do with the valving and the style of shock that it is, monotube, inverted, etc, not that it's a "sport shock". Bilstein's for instance, are almost impossible to push down because they have a high pressure gas system for compression damping. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Gteaser, was the paint for the front struts Duplicolor School bus yellow? I tried to find your Koni install thread but couldn't and it seems to have been edited out of your 2012 LGT thread. Edit-nevermind found it through a nasioc thread and then again when I searched the paint with google. Sometimes the internet is too dang big, lol. Edited October 13, 2016 by FLlegacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Yes, Duplicolor School Bus Yellow GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 It just has to do with the valving and the style of shock that it is, monotube, inverted, etc, not that it's a "sport shock". Bilstein's for instance, are almost impossible to push down because they have a high pressure gas system for compression damping. This. Also, higher gas pressure yields better cavitation/foaming resistance, but more seal stiction. Oil foaming makes damping go to sh!t fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 marking to try and find this easier in the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Hey eibach folks, what did your springs eventually settle at?? rce says their springs are a .8" drop, but mine settled to 1". Im thinking about making the switch to eibachs, but i dont want to switch if they will be more than the 1" that is in the specs. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 What shocks are you running? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Not sure about other shocks, but with the bilsteins mine settled to about 1 1/8 drop, of course adding the 19's raised the car up, but that is where they finally dropped too. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 What shocks are you running? i'm on konis. wondering if the difference between rce/eibach would be worth the amount of work to swap them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidroc Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 i still haven't installed mine!! the eibach springs, koni inserts, donor struts are all in a box in the corner of my garage. I have one set of donor struts cut and but stripped the allen key of the install bolt. I focused my efforts to other stuff around the house. I have three aquariums and a house rabbit!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Not sure about other shocks, but with the bilsteins mine settled to about 1 1/8 drop, of course adding the 19's raised the car up, but that is where they finally dropped too. Thanks! Gonna order them on monday. I cannot find a good setting on the konis to work with rce black springs on the beat up minnesota roads. smooth roads are no problem. potholes and pressure ridges in highways are brutal. If i go soft, the stiffness of the springs makes the car bouncy and it handles like crap. if i go hard, i'm back to how it rode with the bilsteins. tried everywhere between 1/4 and 1-1/4 turns. can't find the happy spot. grr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Thanks! Gonna order them on monday. I cannot find a good setting on the konis to work with rce black springs on the beat up minnesota roads. smooth roads are no problem. potholes and pressure ridges in highways are brutal. If i go soft, the stiffness of the springs makes the car bouncy and it handles like crap. if i go hard, i'm back to how it rode with the bilsteins. tried everywhere between 1/4 and 1-1/4 turns. can't find the happy spot. grr. IIRC, my 3.6R was set at 3/4 F and 1/2 R. These setting were from full soft. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 IIRC, my 3.6R was set at 3/4 F and 1/2 R. These setting were from full soft. thats where ive got them now after a couple weeks of messing with em. the thing that drives me insane is when hitting a pressure ridge at highway speed, you can feel the front springs rapidly bouncing. im sure there's a term for it, but no idea what it is. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 thats where ive got them now after a couple weeks of messing with em. the thing that drives me insane is when hitting a pressure ridge at highway speed, you can feel the front springs rapidly bouncing. im sure there's a term for it, but no idea what it is. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk It's just an oscillation at a frequency that the shocks are unable to dampen. Try turning them up a quarter turn. I had this on my old 240z while driving across a concrete causeway at a particular speed. It's a function of wheelbase, spring rate frequency and the valving of the shocks, and the spacing of the concrete joints, at a particular speed. The whole car got this bucking bronco thing going. 2mph less or more and it stopped. In a different car it wouldn't happen at all. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Hey TimB, where did you find that video? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Hey TimB, where did you find that video? Who what where? Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MySubieII Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 You mentioned earlier about watching a video on the koni insert ? I did find a koni video that showed what they called the cut and strut? Something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 The "Cut-a-Strut" was the one I was talking about. Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 ordered eibachs yesterday. i'll have a set of gently used rce blacks up for sale within the coming weeks. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellesedil Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I'm waiting for this mysterious writeup that GTEASER teasered about the new Koni WRX fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 I'm waiting for this mysterious writeup that GTEASER teasered about the new Koni WRX fronts. Basically, doing inserts into our stock struts is still better than trying to use the new Koni struts, but in the future, using the Koni full struts isn't really going to be an issue. If it were me, I would prefer the insert path, when that's not available any longer, the other path will work with a few minor adjustments. Full write up with pics soon. I am a busy man. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I am a busy man. Is it bad that I immediately thought of you as being Kim Jong Il, as portrayed in Team America? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bootyologist Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 For the eibach/koni combo, i don't need adjustable rear lower control arms, do I? I thought those were only needed when you get into the h&r 1.3" drop range. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 For the eibach/koni combo, i don't need adjustable rear lower control arms, do I? I thought those were only needed when you get into the h&r 1.3" drop range. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk You don't really need adjustable rear lower control arms. It does help when you are trying to dial in your suspension understeer/oversteer/tire-roll/(fill in the blank) "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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