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Koni Yellow Sport Shocks - 2010+ Legacy Fitment


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Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing.

Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front!

 

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Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing.

Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front!

 

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Crap, I didn't know about this at all. Can you please explain exactly how you did it? Thanks

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So just after you have done your spring install, go around and undo every nut/bolt that hold a bushing.

On the front, its just the LCA front bush. On the rear you have 2 on the UCA, 3 on the LCA (plus sway bar end link),2 on the trailing arm and one on the toe link (that would get done on alignment anyway).

Tighten them all up snug, but NOT torqued.

Put the wheels back on and car back on the ground, drive forwards and backwards a few times to let it all settle, I usually tap the brakes a bit to allow some compression.

Now the hard part, with the car at kerb weight, drive it up on some ramps (I drive mine up on a car trailer) and go around and torque them all up!

 

 

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This makes sense for rubber bushings with a fixed steel sleeve that rely on the rubber twisting to enable movement. Any bushings that actually rotate are immune to this issue.

 

For example, if you have oem Rubber sway bar bushings you may need to do this to those. If you have PU bushings with grease, then it's a non issue.

 

I don't know about the various control arm bushings. Are the oem Rubber bushing sleeves clamped in or allowed to rotate?

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Leighos is right, this probably should be done, but no one ever does it. Even shops don't. It's only a good idea with bonded rubber bushing like stock bushings, not necessary on hard poly bushings, pillow balls, or spherical rod ends.

 

So many of us, NASIOC members, and other brand enthusiasts, and even respected shops, have lowered cars and never done this that it probably isn't really a big deal and I have never heard of an issue directly related to not doing this bushing "zeroing". This is honestly the first I have heard of someone actually doing this.

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Hi sir

My car is 2013 SUBARU Legacy wagon 2.5i.

Could I use KONI inserts parts , the parts No. is 8610 1447(fort) and 8010 1053(rear) because my car’s original shock brand is KYB. Thanks a lot.

No those part numbers suit the 4th gen (BL & BP)

 

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Dear sir

Please let me know about KONI inserts suit the 5th(BR & BM) parts number.

I very like KONI shock's performance , But I do'not know where to start.

Thanks a lot.

 

 

 

For the 5th gen the Koni numbers are 8610 1453SPORT(front) and 8010 1055(rear)

 

This info is found in the first post of this thread by Gteaser.

 

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Looks great! How do you like the ride? Which springs again?

I love it. Set to half way "sport", and I felt it backing out of the space!

Eibach Springs.

I will have front donor struts too for those in need.

 

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I love it. Set to half way "sport", and I felt it backing out of the space!

Eibach Springs.

I will have front donor struts too for those in need.

 

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Congrats on your new car, again :p

 

How far are you from the lake up here? I might pickup the struts instead of you having to ship them to someone.

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I only have 1/2 turn up front (full soft rear) but they were put on that way (didn't know about full soft first few hundred). Either way after 1500 miles I believe they softened up a smidgen, car still handles great but I almost have forgotten what stock was like because this rides so smoothly.

 

I only get reminded in the turns when I can take them much faster then before lol

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Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol

 

Yeah..Hold on!!!

 

I also know I need fatter tires lol, the 225 serenity plus i run were great before and are OK in handling but now I have a good suspension and the grand touring tire isn't meant for the turns. Next year hopefully I can snag a new set of wheels and use the stock wheels as my winter set

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Congrats on your new car, again [emoji14]

 

How far are you from the lake up here? I might pickup the struts instead of you having to ship them to someone.

I'm in Dayton. It's pretty far from Lake Erie if that's what you mean?

 

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Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol

Hahaha. I have been thinking this exact thought since I made this car my daily driver! Sliding all over three place.

 

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Taking turns now results in me sliding out of the seat rather than the car rolling...when is someone going to find a way to properly bolster the stock seats! Lol

 

There's the Braum seats:

 

I personally would go with the black. They're like $700 though.

 

I'm in Dayton. It's pretty far from Lake Erie if that's what you mean?

 

Yeah, Lake Erie. Well crap. That's not a quick drive by any means, haha. I know someone that has relatives down there. Maybe I'll PM you at some point, we can set a price and I could have them grab them. I'll let ya know.

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