DOHCEJ22E1

Update: The car still does well and with the mod/mods the 2.2 is and has, I'm able to pull about 140mi per quarter tank traveled on long distance cruises. The high output EJ25D still hasn't been built yet, as I have had many delays or setbacks. Most of the parts are there to get it done, though...

The exhaust at the time was a 2.25in catback to 2.5in axleback N1 muffler. It is currently without that muffler but I'm going to add both a resonator and a muffler again.

The EJ22D at full song early in the morning last year in September.

The blue 1998 Subaru Legacy L wagon belongs to a friend of mine. I take periodic trips up to Worcester, Ma to help her mod and maintain this wagon she affectionately calls "Blu." It currently has all of my previous mods that were given to her wagon. Even though it is 4eat and has it's original EJ22E longblock, the mods help it keep pace with the EJ22D well and it has a good amount of low-end torque in comparison. It has proven to me that even left as is, the EJ22E has much to offer when the longblock has support mods on it.

Just pics I took after the installation of the EJ22D some time.

With the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, VMS lightweight crank pulley, and the Mini Cooper S ignition coil followed by NGK V-Power plugs, the mod list was completed after the EJ22D was completed.

After being completed, the EJ22D was brought to a friend's garage and he helped me install it. I'd been waiting for a good day and after recovering from having been sick the previous week, we decided to go for it.

You're welcome. EJ hybrids are quickly becoming a thing of the distant past, and soon, this EJ22D will also be a thing of the past as I have decided to upgrade to an EJ253 bottom end for more power while my next and final EJ hybrid will be both turbo and 2.2L. I find it fitting for what I feel are my final EJ hybrids after a decade+ of this.

The STi oil pan was installed and primered/painted after I'd sanded the rough spot and the water pump was replaced with a brand new one after the timing was mocked up to ensure the cams and block spun as they should after their journals were cleaned and polished.

The EJ20D heads and EJ257 oil pump are bolted on the EJ222 block and the resulting combo looks the same as my last setup. It is a completely different engine, though. Calm low in the rpm and violent up past 4000rpm, the way a proper DOHC 2.2 EJ hybrid should be.

After getting JDM EJ20D heads (a friend stored these after he'd gotten them from me after I tore down an EJ20D I'd gotten from JDM Depot in New Jersey), I disassembled them, got new buckets, new Mizumo valves, sanded them down to perfect flatness in different grits, and got them ready for installation.

Over time, I'd grown tired of the of the EJ22E. While it was a terrific engine, I felt the need for more power and sought to build another EJ25D hybrid. Unfortunately, the EJ251 block I'd gotten had a bolt thread strip while I was torquing down the heads, so it was disposed of. Here is the EJ222 block. It came out of an '01 Impreza L and had about 130k miles on it at the time. Knowing how durable these EJ222 bottoms are, I bought the engine with intent to create another EJ22D as I had done many times before. It got it's oiling upgrades with the following: Killer B oil baffle. Moroso oil pickup. STi oil pump. STi oil pan. Honda S2000 oil filter (replaced after break-in). The rings and bearings were still mint, so no need to replace them. As the engine is running amazing to this day, the results turned out well.

After taking measurement of the 3000GT clutch pin and having tried it on my slave beforehand, I decided that a thicker pin would suffice, and cut and ground this bolt as close to the 3000GT pin's length as I possibly could. Close enough.

The comparison between the pins goes as follows:n. 1. Mitsubishi 3000GT clutch pin. 2. OEM Subaru WRX clutch pin. 3. Aftermarket WRX clutch pin. Also to note, the N/A clutch pins are exactly the same length and thickness of the WRX clutch pins. Furthermore, in order for this to work successfully, I had to use the 2004 N/A Impreza clutch master cylinder, as the increased pressure created by the prototype thicker/longer pin destroyed 2 WRX master cylinders (blew the bottoms out quite violently).

A short while ago, I did a transmission swap to a Mitsubishi 3000GT DOHC 3.0 SL and discovered that the clutch pins look oddly similar to ours. Turns out they are a few mm longer. As I was looking for a way to improve the 3000GT's clutch pedal response and succeeded, I kept that same information to apply to my own clutch pedal (it wasn't bad but could use a little help, even after bench bleeding/new fluid). The thicker clutch pin was my result for seeking a stronger, longer, and thicker pin for improved pedal response. For all intents and purposes, I definitely succeeded.

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It has been a while since I've posted here but here are some updates that have happened over the course of time long since forgotten.

The physical longblock is the only thing that is different. Everything else is 2g specific, so you will have to buy sensors and injectors you would for an EJ22E or EJ25D equipped Legacy. Personally, I would pull that engine for a matching 2.2 or 2.5 that belongs in the car. You can do some neat things with that Phase 2 2.0. For starters, you can put the heads on an EJ251 bottom end and have a neat 2.5L ripper on your hands. You can also clean up the ports of that custom intake to get maximum flow out of it. You having that setup gives you a unique build path, if you should choose to walk it.

It is exactly as you suspect. This engine does not belong in this car. I'll explain in detail. The intake manifold was welded at the bottom of the runners because Phase 2 DOHC's have a different bolt pattern than the Phase 1's (your car) DOHC heads do. This was done to adapt the engine to the car. However, this engine is able to run because it has Phase 1 timing triggers from the factory. While I won't go too deep into it (Reseach EJ205/EJ206/EJ208), I strongly suspect that your engine is a member of that family. Early JDM Phase 2 DOHC turbo engines came with Phase 1 timing triggers. Phase 2 is the next generation of cars/technology from Subaru (1999+). The engine you're running is indeed a turbo 2.0 (likely what the owner said it is). Being between two different worlds, many mods will work for you to spice that engine's performance up. I've got a good list for that engine to help you get the best of what you can out of it without boost. My ig is ej22d. I hope this helps!

Being given a 22E I could not ignore at the time, I decided to do the best with what I was given. Before long, the 22E had been given mods and Gloria thrown at the dyno to check the results. With the old threads bashing the N/A's for not being able to put out well, I'd have thought that this EJ22E would be the same. Boy was I wrong... https://www.youtube.com/embed/yRX6NEGSCZA Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley & intake manifold spacers, Cosmo Racing intake pipe/factory air filter box (hybrid intake), Exedy lightweight flywheel, SRT-4 Screamin Demon ignition coil w/NGK copper plugs gapped to .055 (gap recommended by @subie_snatcher_85 on IG), stock exhaust manifold with imperfections in ports removed (single port), gutted pre-cat, and 2.25in exhaust piping. ECU is stock 2.5 GT unit and fuel is 87 octane. Power produced was 139awhp@5004rpm/155awft-lbs@2638rpm. I've no doubt that running on 93 would have helped it generate more power, but powerband is more important so I kept using 87 and that engine would have still been running today if I did not remove it and build something better in it's place...

Thank you! I was a bit iffy about getting this wagon to replace it but it's been a damn good ride.

My mod list by the point would go as follows: Cosmo Racing intake pipe + Stock airbox = Hybrid intake. Screamin' Demon ignition coil + NGK copper plugs gapped to .056. 2.25in catback. Grimmspeed lightweight pulley. Grimmspeed intake manifold spacers. MaxSpeedingRods GC coilovers + Megan Racing springs. 06-07 WRX 4pot/2pot setup + Stainless steel lines + Grimmspeed master cylinder brace. Stoptech rotors. EBC yellowstuff pads (would not recommend, dusty even though they work well, only last a year). Tribeca 24mm front sway bar. Whiteline 22mm rear sway bar. Perrin solid end links. ZeroSports front strut bar. Megan Racing rear strut bar. Exedy lightweight flywheel + clutch. Dragonball shift knob (7 star). 04 WRX 3.90 5mt w/LSD rear differential. Street Rays pitch mount. Kein transmission racing mount. Kartboy solid shifter, poly shifter bushings, and poly transmission bushings. JDM headlights. JDM taillights. JDM foglights. JDM RFRB grille. 04 WRX seats. 03 LL. Bean steering wheel = 04 Red Momo airbag. 00 2.5 RS 6 spokes (lightweight wheel).

At around 288k miles, the 4eat had finally given up and it was time to swap it out. Despite being in serious pain and the transmission falling on my face at some point, I manage to finish the 5mt swap in 4 days with some help, working on and off through the pain and painkillers.

EJ22E is installed.

My friend had this engine sitting in his garage for a few years after he swapped his EJ22D+T in his wagon, so I asked him to use it and he gave the go-ahead. This engine turned out to be a neat little rulebreaker because my usual mod list was put on this wagon for it and it produced the following power level: https://www.youtube.com/embed/yRX6NEGSCZA 139awhp/155awft-lbs. I swapped this engine in before my WRX 3.90 5mt and LSD rear differential, which I also got from him. Changed the entire way the entire car responded and for the better.