utc_pyro Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) That's the same cooler I have actually. Then I have this thermostat bypassing it: http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/TTOT.pdf Not sure what fluid the shop put in, may need to look into that. It's still not getting close to hot enough though. Edit: driving to same site this morning maxed at 145f. Didn't have slow speed slipping this time, but had one at 65% throttle accelerating away from a stoplight. Edit2: It was also down 1.25L 2.75L 3.5L of transmission fluid and making fun screaching sounds today. Edit3: I needed to learn how to read a damn transmission dipstick. Incase you do as well, you check while the engine is running, warmed up, and you use the TOP SIDE or HOLES in the dipstick. If you've been filling it or it's sat there for a while the reading will be all messed up. Oil on the side of the stick doesn't count. Edited November 24, 2016 by utc_pyro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well. I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 I've read of that happening, but not how to fix it. Fluid level/type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 I've read of that happening, but not how to fix it. Fluid level/type? Good ole Idemitsu, right perfect at the full line. Maybe 400 miles on it. What's weird was my old trans NEVER did that, until after my engine rebuild. What's even weirder is that the new trans does the SAME thing. It's gotta be TCU related... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well. I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk are you in manual mode? do you have the HexMods VB? If your answers are yes, manually downshift from 4 > 3 and it should happen less / not at all. It's something to do with when/how the car makes the decision to downshift on it's own. I usually downshift from 4>3 at higher than 20mph. if your answers are not yes, it could be the same thing. I think I've had it happen when in automatic mode as well. I have the HexMods and don't really remember this happening much before then. since it happened after your original rebuild, could possibly also have to do with how the TC is connected to the engine, maybe? I got my HexMods done at the same time my engine was pulled, so I have that in common with you. only thing I can think of is the TC is trying to grab when you drop into 3rd but the speed is too low so it grabs hard then releases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy.B Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 I was actually gonna ask and MTBwrench mentioned it. I have this same issue too and it doesn't happen all the time. It happens very rarely. When the ATF temp is cold, or hot. It might be happening in Manual mode. I'm pretty sure that's when. It's 3rd - 2nd that does it when it auto downshifts. No other gears. I slow down and the car will jerky slightly. I thought maybe I needed the TCU update but I already have it. Any other time it shifts fine. I've even tried to recreate the effect by shifting back to 3rd and then to 2nd again and it won't do it. Maybe I should figure out how to get my TCU logging and see if I can catch it in a log. Timothy.B's 2011 LEGACY 3.6R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigs Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Nothing to ask but just saying thank you for answering my questions via facebook about the 5at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy739 Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated.. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated.. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem? MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Maybe I'm just stupid, but how do I get the crank pulley off on a 5EAT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Maybe I'm just stupid, but how do I get the crank pulley off on a 5EAT? Screwdriver Flexplate There's a rubber cap under the intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Screwdriver Flexplate There's a rubber cap under the intercooler. This is for changing the timing belt, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Get a pulley wrench from Company 23 or a 1/2" impact gun will do it. Jamming a screwdriver in the flexplate would be my last resort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 (edited) Get a pulley wrench from Company 23 or a 1/2" impact gun will do it. Jamming a screwdriver in the flexplate would be my last resort. It's worked for generations of cars with automatics. I'm sure someone makes a fancy tool that only makes the job more difficult and your wallet lighter. Most of these fancy tools also only work with the stock pulley and damage aftermarket ones. Edited December 30, 2016 by whitrzac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obikenobi27 Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 (edited) So, I got a GS crank pulley tool. That works fine for holding the pulley, but I can't seem to loosen the bolt. I have my longest breaker bar on it and have sprayed several times with WD-40. Is there something special about this bolt? I feel like I might snap a socket or bend my bar. nvm. it broke Edited December 31, 2016 by obikenobi27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Bump it with the starter to get it off. Wd40 is NOT penitrating oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 It's worked for generations of cars with automatics. I'm sure someone makes a fancy tool that only makes the job more difficult and your wallet lighter. Most of these fancy tools also only work with the stock pulley and damage aftermarket ones. More than one way to skin a cat. Damage and use all depends on the tool chosen and or user. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I've used a large object in the flex plate every time I needed to torque/remove the crank pulley or flex plate itself. The flex plate's sole purpose is to handle torque applied at the TC mounting tabs. Jamming in a screwdriver won't kill it. That being said, jamming a small object in there and proceeding to ram the pulley home with your 1/2" impact is most likely not the best idea. Slow and easy hand torque from a ratchet is perfect. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 I do not disagree not to put it on with an impact. Suggestion was for off. As for on I'd still prefer to use a pulley tool to isolate the crank from spinning. Again more than one way to skin a cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 I do not disagree not to put it on with an impact. Suggestion was for off. As for on I'd still prefer to use a pulley tool to isolate the crank from spinning. Again more than one way to skin a cat. I lack comprehension abilities sometimes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 My '05 is beginning to slip a bit. Someone recommended a TCM reset as it worked for him. How can that be done? Is it a dealer only thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 My '05 is beginning to slip a bit. Someone recommended a TCM reset as it worked for him. How can that be done? Is it a dealer only thing? It likely won't do anything, exceptions are rare. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-free-ssm-thread-151177.html Change the fluid until it's fresh. Lucas Trans Fix might help depending on the mode of failure. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 My '05 is beginning to slip a bit. Someone recommended a TCM reset as it worked for him. How can that be done? Is it a dealer only thing? What are the symptoms of your 5EAT slipping? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Thanks Climber. I am not a fan of those types of additives, but if it gives me another month or two that would help. Gimpy my symptoms are it doesnt immediately snick into gear from a cold start. The revs go higher than normal and it kind of slowly gets into gear. Then on the road the shift point rpms are higher than normal and actual shift takes longer....like it is sliding into gear instead of snicking into gear. Hope thats clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 If you're talking about your tranny doing this when the engine is cold then it's normal. They set the shift points higher to warm things up faster. 'Clunking' into gear when its cold is just cause the gear oil is still thick and warming up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now