5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

[snow05gtRI]

heat shield loose on your exhaust manifolds or above midpipe on exhaust?

 

the connection point on my passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield rotted through the exact circumference of the bolt that attaches it to the underbody and it was rattling against the bolt.

[utc_pyro]

heat shield loose on your exhaust manifolds or above midpipe on exhaust?

 

the connection point on my passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield rotted through the exact circumference of the bolt that attaches it to the underbody and it was rattling against the bolt.

 

ELH so nothing there. It's coming from behind/above the cross member. I cant hear it above the motor or under the front, just when behind the front wheels. It coming from before the midpipe meets the downpipe.

[Ifixtheinternet]

I'm having a strange issue which I think is related to the 5EAT torque converter.

When traveling at constant speed between 50-60mph, if quickly releasing throttle from about 25% to 0%, sometimes the transmission will disengage harshly and the whole car shakes back and forth a couple times.

First trip to the dealer was fruitless, but I need to reproduce it for them.

I upgraded the rear bushing but that did little to nothing.

Others have said this isn't normal for this car.

Any ideas I can throw at the dealer?

Edited October 31, 2016 by Ifixtheinternet

[obikenobi27]

Forgive me for not reading through all 1400 posts.

 

I'm looking to do an ATF flush as well as front and rear differential oil changes. I've read ClimberD's flush thread. What's the best brand of ATF and differential oil? Is there anything I should know before I get started and realize I need a weird tool/sealant/etc? Is there a difference between the front and rear differential oils. Should I change anything else while I'm going through this process? This is my first time changing transmission and diff fluids on my own. I'm trying to come prepared before I take three extra trips to the autoparts store.

 

Whoops! I should probably mention I have an 07 LegacyGT Limited. 45K miles. I'm changing the fluids to try and get rid of some tranny shudder.

Edited November 10, 2016 by obikenobi27

[utc_pyro]

Front and rear diffs are the same. Just whatever 75w-90 synthetic gear oil you like.

 

For the 5EAT the OEM ATF-HP or AMSOIL fluid are the most recommended. But in reality you can use anything that list ATF-HP or JASO-1A comparability some options below:

Nissan Matic S (OEM full synthetic oil JATCO specifies)

Valvoline Import Multi-Vehicle ATF

Castrol Transmax Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle

 

Likely the fluid wont fix your issues, but you probably want to do it anyway. If it's slipping you would be better off looking for a tuner that will adjust the requested and calculated torque tables. Fahr_Side, West_mist, or Throttle Happy.

Edited November 10, 2016 by utc_pyro
IOS is not my friend

[fishbone]

I've done both tables and I couldn't tell you for sure if it's placebo or actual performance changes.

[fahr_side]

I've done both tables and I couldn't tell you for sure if it's placebo or actual performance changes.

 

 

 

If you take before and after logs you can see how long it takes to complete a gear shift from the time stamps. It's not a simple matter of just multiplying the R table values by 10 or 20% and calling it good. The CT table wants to take the shape of your actual torque curve and the values need to be raised in steps until you get the shift you're looking for.

[MTBwrench]

Does anyone know of a way I can get a turbine speed sensor without buying a $350 harness?

 

The shop cracked them on both transmissions...

 

 

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[whitrzac]

Does anyone know of a way I can get a turbine speed sensor without buying a $350 harness?

 

The shop cracked them on both transmissions...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

A junk transmission. I ran into similar issues when rebuilding a 4eat harness that was eaten. Harness was ~$350 too.

[MTBwrench]

A junk transmission. I ran into similar issues when rebuilding a 4eat harness that was eaten. Harness was ~$350 too.

 

I figured... too bad a junk 5EAT is impossible to come by in these parts! I've called a few Subaru specific yards, but nobody has junk cores with sensors still in them! If it's not one thing it's another with this damn wagon. Looks like it's a $400 harness or bust.

[whitrzac]

I figured... too bad a junk 5EAT is impossible to come by in these parts! I've called a few Subaru specific yards, but nobody has junk cores with sensors still in them! If it's not one thing it's another with this damn wagon. Looks like it's a $400 harness or bust.

 

I would have to look at the spare 5eat I have, but I'm fairly certain that harness is part of the trans like the 4eat. It has all of the VB plugs on it/etc as well. It doesn't come off without disassembly. I would bet it's just a dumb junkyard tech.

 

 

 

Make a CL/facebook. It seems someone is always parting out a 5eat lgt. I use to know where 3 different cars were sitting being parted out in WI.

[MTBwrench]

I would have to look at the spare 5eat I have, but I'm fairly certain that harness is part of the trans like the 4eat. It has all of the VB plugs on it/etc as well. It doesn't come off without disassembly. I would bet it's just a dumb junkyard tech.

 

 

 

Make a CL/facebook. It seems someone is always parting out a 5eat lgt. I use to know where 3 different cars were sitting being parted out in WI.

 

 

 

That would be correct. The harness passes into the case and connects to the VB. Problem is, the speed sensor is connected to that harness, and despite t being fully removable, is not sold separately... (which you already know)

 

The problem is, all my searching has led to nothing, mostly due to lack of Subarus in junkyards in my area haha. I was hoping to not make this a three week project... because with my rental costing $33 a day, after a week and a half I could just buy the damn harness and come out cheaper anyways. Ah well, ''tis the name of the game.

 

I've got a few yards checking for me, hopefully something comes up.

 

 

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[utc_pyro]

My transmission is slipping in first gear when cold. Only sub ~2500rpm, only below 50f. Transmission only has ~75k miles on it.

 

Noticed this first the morning before I took it to have the valve body changed. Seems to have gotten worse sence they swapped the transgo body from the old transmission and changed the fluid. Granted it's also been colder in the mornings, so it may not be completely related.

 

The in radiator cooler is gone, there is only a big air cooler with a 165f external thermosta.

 

Any ideas? Or has this money put just gotten worse?

[Perscitus]

Hmm, your setup sounds fine - except if I understand it correctly, all that thermostat is doing is routing the fluid back to the transmission below 165F, only sending it through the air cooler >165F, correct? If so, perhaps you're seeing some effect of cold ATF in 1st since it would stay cool for a prolonged period of time post cold-start. What type of fluid?

 

Can you log using either RR or BtSsm and get a sense of how long your ATF stays below say 100F, 150F? See what each of the solenoids are doing (log all solenoid pressure psi outputs), log engine/turbine RPMs and see when you notice lockup in 1st and other gears.

[snow05gtRI]

fluid level nominal? I know it's the standard check, but figured i'd ask.

 

what makes you think it's slipping? RPM flying up or RPM just climbing normal rate but car doesn't feel like it's moving? or does it feel like it's slipping while shifting?

 

failures in the past are usually top down, starting with 5th. Don't think I've read an account of someone's first gear failing before others.

[MTBwrench]

That really sounds like a cold fluid issue. I'm pretty sure that just cruising around in frigid temps(even bypassing the air-liquid cooler), lack of the liquid-liquid heat exchange in the radiator could cause your trans to never reach a good enough operating temp. In cold temps, the radiator actually heats the ATF and helps keep it at operating temp. You'd be surprised how little heat is made otherwise, unless you're pushing it hard.

[utc_pyro]

I think the theory of "not enough heat" is winning. See the attached log, this was a 9.5 mile drive home today. Outside temp was 74*f. temp didn't get above 130f or so before I started intentionally flogging it toward the end of the log.

 

When this happens the engine RPM rises (like the torque converter was doing it's thing) but power to the wheels isn't increasing. If you give it gas quicker (increases line pressure) or at slightly higher speed (15-20 mph) there isn't an issue.

 

So maybe I need to add a fluid-fluid heat exchanger like the JDM trannys had? Odd that I never noticed this before, but I just had an aftermarket catback and the noise is making more conscious about throttle usage.

romraiderlog_20161118_165007.csv

Edited November 18, 2016 by utc_pyro

[utc_pyro]

It looks like standalone fluid-fluid cooler/warmers are pretty common on Hondas, so it shouldn't be an issue finding something that'd work. Even using an OEM Subaru oil cooler attached to the transmission filter would probably work.

 

Where would one take/return coolant to run such a thing? As I have a thermostat, presumable I'd stick this before that setup?

[MTBwrench]

It looks like standalone fluid-fluid cooler/warmers are pretty common on Hondas, so it shouldn't be an issue finding something that'd work. Even using an OEM Subaru oil cooler attached to the transmission filter would probably work.

 

Where would one take/return coolant to run such a thing? As I have a thermostat, presumable I'd stick this before that setup?

 

Wait, I'm confused here... do you have an aftermarket radiator?

[utc_pyro]

Wait, I'm confused here... do you have an aftermarket radiator?

 

Yeah, Mishimoto. No built in transmission tube, so if I want to regain this functionality I need to rig up something else. Currently it's only being cooled by a huge B&M cooler bypassed with the 165f thermostat. Based on the logs: ether the 5EAT is making very little heat, the transmission pan is acting as a radiator, or the thermostat isn't bypassing enough fluid.

Edited November 19, 2016 by utc_pyro

[utc_pyro]

Welp, one more thing I can say "JDM YO!" about:Ebay: JDM Legacy Transmission Cooler

 

The automatic '14+ VX and impreza also have these, and the hose routing on those is a bit simpler. I'm hoping this JDM one will bolt up to the USDM transmission.

 

Can anyone tell me where to get coolant to make this thing work? I cant find a good diagram of where this even was mounted on the JDM car.

 

Edit: it mounts on the front driver side of the tranny.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-cooler-installation-17293p25.html

 

So I guess I'd bypass the line going TO the oil filter/air cooler into this contraption. No idea how to get coolant to it still. Heater hoses are in this area, and there is also the throttle body heating stuff that could be tapped.

Edited November 20, 2016 by utc_pyro

[whitrzac]

Welp, one more thing I can say "JDM YO!" about:Ebay: JDM Legacy Transmission Cooler

 

The automatic '14+ VX and impreza also have these, and the hose routing on those is a bit simpler. I'm hoping this JDM one will bolt up to the USDM transmission.

 

Can anyone tell me where to get coolant to make this thing work? I cant find a good diagram of where this even was mounted on the JDM car.

 

Edit: it mounts on the front driver side of the tranny.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-cooler-installation-17293p25.html

 

So I guess I'd bypass the line going TO the oil filter/air cooler into this contraption. No idea how to get coolant to it still. Heater hoses are in this area, and there is also the throttle body heating stuff that could be tapped.

 

 

The only place I've seen those used is on 5th gen cars. I've seen that exact listing, I think it's a mistake and was taken from a 5th gen.

[Perscitus]

Also used on the JDM WRX S4, Levorg and 5th gen Legacy/Liberty DIT

and the USDM 2015+ WRX.

 

I would skip. No benefit over a well plumbed perhaps smaller aux cooler / thermostat setup.

I have bypassed these on 3 Subarus with no ill effects and good CVTF temps.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/properly-plumb-your-5eat-transmission-cooler-221643.html

Edited November 20, 2016 by Perscitus

[utc_pyro]

Apparently this was used on some years of the BL/BP platform as well. Mainly the first 1.5 years. I have an a misimoto radiator, there is no going back to the in stock rad cooler/warmer setup. My current air cooler + thermostat is obviously not heating up enough, so this seems like a good way to improve that. It was also cheaper than most fluid-fluid heat exchangers once you take fittings and such into account.

 

Perscitus, on the ones you've bypassed where are they tapping into the coolant system?

[Perscitus]

Thats the thing, similar to your current setup Im not.

Perhaps the trick is a smaller or different aux cooler combined with a fully synthetic fluid that behaves well under lower temps?

 

I typically use a small aux cooler with multiple flow paths, mounted in front of the radiator and AC condenser in the path of direct airflow and radiator fan airflow. Couple that with a full ATF transfusion or a series of drain and fills to switch to say Amsoils or Motuls ATF, CVTF... Ideally which meet the required Subaru spec. Both have a much wider operating range vs OE fluid... Both on the cooler ans hotter sides of the spectrum.

 

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1479653147037

Edited November 20, 2016 by Perscitus