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That's the same cooler I have actually. Then I have this thermostat bypassing it: http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/TTOT.pdf

 

Not sure what fluid the shop put in, may need to look into that. It's still not getting close to hot enough though.

 

Edit: driving to same site this morning maxed at 145f. Didn't have slow speed slipping this time, but had one at 65% throttle accelerating away from a stoplight.

 

Edit2: It was also down 1.25L 2.75L 3.5L of transmission fluid and making fun screaching sounds today. :hide:

 

Edit3: I needed to learn how to read a damn transmission dipstick. Incase you do as well, you check while the engine is running, warmed up, and you use the TOP SIDE or HOLES in the dipstick. If you've been filling it or it's sat there for a while the reading will be all messed up. Oil on the side of the stick doesn't count.

Edited by utc_pyro
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

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I've read of that happening, but not how to fix it.

 

Fluid level/type?

 

 

 

Good ole Idemitsu, right perfect at the full line. Maybe 400 miles on it. What's weird was my old trans NEVER did that, until after my engine rebuild. What's even weirder is that the new trans does the SAME thing. It's gotta be TCU related...

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

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So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

are you in manual mode? do you have the HexMods VB?

 

If your answers are yes, manually downshift from 4 > 3 and it should happen less / not at all. It's something to do with when/how the car makes the decision to downshift on it's own. I usually downshift from 4>3 at higher than 20mph.

 

if your answers are not yes, it could be the same thing. I think I've had it happen when in automatic mode as well. I have the HexMods and don't really remember this happening much before then.

 

since it happened after your original rebuild, could possibly also have to do with how the TC is connected to the engine, maybe? I got my HexMods done at the same time my engine was pulled, so I have that in common with you.

 

only thing I can think of is the TC is trying to grab when you drop into 3rd but the speed is too low so it grabs hard then releases.

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I was actually gonna ask and MTBwrench mentioned it. I have this same issue too and it doesn't happen all the time. It happens very rarely. When the ATF temp is cold, or hot. It might be happening in Manual mode. I'm pretty sure that's when. It's 3rd - 2nd that does it when it auto downshifts. No other gears. I slow down and the car will jerky slightly.

 

I thought maybe I needed the TCU update but I already have it. Any other time it shifts fine. I've even tried to recreate the effect by shifting back to 3rd and then to 2nd again and it won't do it.

 

Maybe I should figure out how to get my TCU logging and see if I can catch it in a log.

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Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated..

 

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Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated..

 

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How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem?

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Get a pulley wrench from Company 23 or a 1/2" impact gun will do it. Jamming a screwdriver in the flexplate would be my last resort.

It's worked for generations of cars with automatics. :spin:

 

I'm sure someone makes a fancy tool that only makes the job more difficult and your wallet lighter.

 

Most of these fancy tools also only work with the stock pulley and damage aftermarket ones.

Edited by whitrzac
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So, I got a GS crank pulley tool. That works fine for holding the pulley, but I can't seem to loosen the bolt. I have my longest breaker bar on it and have sprayed several times with WD-40. Is there something special about this bolt? I feel like I might snap a socket or bend my bar.

 

nvm. it broke

Edited by obikenobi27
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It's worked for generations of cars with automatics. :spin:

 

I'm sure someone makes a fancy tool that only makes the job more difficult and your wallet lighter.

 

Most of these fancy tools also only work with the stock pulley and damage aftermarket ones.

More than one way to skin a cat. Damage and use all depends on the tool chosen and or user. YMMV.

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I've used a large object in the flex plate every time I needed to torque/remove the crank pulley or flex plate itself. The flex plate's sole purpose is to handle torque applied at the TC mounting tabs. Jamming in a screwdriver won't kill it. :)

 

That being said, jamming a small object in there and proceeding to ram the pulley home with your 1/2" impact is most likely not the best idea. Slow and easy hand torque from a ratchet is perfect.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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:) I do not disagree not to put it on with an impact. Suggestion was for off. As for on I'd still prefer to use a pulley tool to isolate the crank from spinning. Again more than one way to skin a cat.
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:) I do not disagree not to put it on with an impact. Suggestion was for off. As for on I'd still prefer to use a pulley tool to isolate the crank from spinning. Again more than one way to skin a cat.

 

 

I lack comprehension abilities sometimes. :)

 

 

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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  • 2 weeks later...
My '05 is beginning to slip a bit. Someone recommended a TCM reset as it worked for him. How can that be done? Is it a dealer only thing?

 

It likely won't do anything, exceptions are rare.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-free-ssm-thread-151177.html

 

Change the fluid until it's fresh.

Lucas Trans Fix might help depending on the mode of failure.

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Thanks Climber. I am not a fan of those types of additives, but if it gives me another month or two that would help.

 

Gimpy my symptoms are it doesnt immediately snick into gear from a cold start. The revs go higher than normal and it kind of slowly gets into gear. Then on the road the shift point rpms are higher than normal and actual shift takes longer....like it is sliding into gear instead of snicking into gear.

 

Hope thats clear. :D

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If you're talking about your tranny doing this when the engine is cold then it's normal. They set the shift points higher to warm things up faster. 'Clunking' into gear when its cold is just cause the gear oil is still thick and warming up.
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