Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So I've got a crazy shift shock when slowing to a stop. It happens at 20mph guaranteed every time; loud clank and the whole car jerks. The behavior started after my rebuild(no battery for ~3 months), and is still completely there with my new trans as well.

 

I'm guessing it's TCU, time for a reset?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I've seen this a lot in various forms. It's likely related to the engine. So many support issues I've seen with the 5EAT have been resolved with something as simple as an engine vacuum leak. I do not know what the exact mechanism is, but it's the ECU sending incorrect signals to the TCU. ECU itself is fine, problem is an input somewhere is not what the TCU wants to see at certain moments, such as during your bad shift.

 

 

How did you change the solenoid? From what I've heard the electronics(save for the external harness) are not serviceable units. Perhaps there's a chance that even though you've changed the faulty solenoid, there is still an underlying problem?

 

The solenoids are easy to change, just one torx bolt and gently pulling it out (plastic held secure by two o-rings). They are now also easy to find, and not terribly expensive. Just make sure you don't buy one of questionable origin, as with any aftermarket replacement part.

 

 

Hi good night I'm looking for some help with figuring out a problem with my 2005 Subaru Legacy 5AT I'm getting a jerk or (kick) every time the second gear runs out an goes into 3rd gear I did a diagnostic and found that the shift solidnoid sensor C was at fault I change the soilnoid and I'm still getting the same jerk (kick) when the gear change any suggestions will much appreciated..

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

What was your CEL Code? Not P0700, but the next code, something like P0741. Let's first double check that you replaced the correct solenoid... PM me too about this, happy to help.

 

 

he speaks! :eek:

 

glad to see you're still lurking ;):lol:

 

For a time I really came to dread dealing with my LGT and all things related, but I'm in a better place now and I am starting to enjoy it again. Might be on here a bit more often :)

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're talking about your tranny doing this when the engine is cold then it's normal. They set the shift points higher to warm things up faster. 'Clunking' into gear when its cold is just cause the gear oil is still thick and warming up.

 

You misread me completely. It does not clunk into gear... it slides very slowly into gear, whether cold or warmed up. This is not normal because it is different than what it has always done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a time I really came to dread dealing with my LGT and all things related, but I'm in a better place now and I am starting to enjoy it again. Might be on here a bit more often :)

 

glad to hear. I'm somewhat at that stage with my LGT right now. To the point I've been considering getting a new car. But, it's not really worth anything to anyone else, so I'd probably keep it and get a new car if I did.

 

trying to take a step back and just get it into reasonable order... then go from there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second question is one of the bigger complaints I have with out cars. If you kee an eye on the gear indicator and rome when going wot 1st gear in manual mode, the indicator jumps to 2 at a MUCH lower rpm then redline. I'm talking just under 5k sometimes. Drives me nuts. Not ideal but I usually just let it shift itself out of first. 09 valve body + the manual mode shift interface being tighter, I wouldnt be jealous of an MT.

Didn't realize he made the valve body for the 09. I have a white lgt 09 was the valve body mod worth it in your opinion. Should I get one if I'm pushing 300 hp

 

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You misread me completely. It does not clunk into gear... it slides very slowly into gear, whether cold or warmed up. This is not normal because it is different than what it has always done.

 

 

That sounds to me like burnt or worn clutch packs.

 

I've seen this a lot in various forms. It's likely related to the engine. So many support issues I've seen with the 5EAT have been resolved with something as simple as an engine vacuum leak. I do not know what the exact mechanism is, but it's the ECU sending incorrect signals to the TCU. ECU itself is fine, problem is an input somewhere is not what the TCU wants to see at certain moments, such as during your bad shift.

 

 

 

Hmm... I'll have to look into that. The issue is still 100% there, although somehow better with the modified valve body. I'm fairly sure the engine is 100% sorted as everything is new. Buuuut, on that same token, that leaves a lot of opportunity for error. :)

 

glad to hear. I'm somewhat at that stage with my LGT right now. To the point I've been considering getting a new car. But, it's not really worth anything to anyone else, so I'd probably keep it and get a new car if I did.

 

trying to take a step back and just get it into reasonable order... then go from there.

 

 

We've all been there, I feel ya. I've been there too many times... looking at a laundry list of things that could make a down payment on something newer/more reliable.

 

Didn't realize he made the valve body for the 09. I have a white lgt 09 was the valve body mod worth it in your opinion. Should I get one if I'm pushing 300 hp

 

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

 

 

There is no valve body for the 2009 5EAT. I believe ClimberD only makes a valve body for the 2005-2007 5EAT model years. By to answer your questions, yes 100% worth it, and if you're talking about 300 at the wheels you may run into problems. 5EATs are all different, and mileage really plays into roles as well. Really, the weakest link is the center diff, which had fragile bearings in the sun gears.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I have my center differential all cleaned and disassembled. I've got the bushings,rem and cryo'd pinion gears and input shaft all ready. I am wondering about having to reshim for new clutch packs?

 

Probably a question better answered by Hexmods... but if it were me, I would be shimming it the same exact way it came from the factory(i.e.- when I took it apart).

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 08' obxt was having issues with my TCC lockup and i eventually diagnosed a bad solenoid.

 

I replaced the VB with new OEM and reflashed the mem with a vagcom cable and ssm.

 

Worked legit, car was driving wicked for 6 months and then no reverse when the wife was driving it last weekend. (Actually the reverse was getting weird and started taking a while to engage)

It now works ok when cold... but we're not driving it.

 

Car is at 287hp/335tq currently. I don't want to go 6spd since I sit in traffic ALOT... but I also don't want to be doing rebuilds annually either

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my center differential all cleaned and disassembled. I've got the bushings,rem and cryo'd pinion gears and input shaft all ready. I am wondering about having to reshim for new clutch packs?

 

Probably a question better answered by Hexmods... but if it were me, I would be shimming it the same exact way it came from the factory(i.e.- when I took it apart).

 

Following up on your direct message so it's out there for public record:

If you put it back together with the same clutch pack, or use new OEM frictions in the same config as what you had, then you do not need to re-shim.

Re-shimming the center diff clutch is a giant pain unless you've done that kind of thing many times.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 08' obxt was having issues with my TCC lockup and i eventually diagnosed a bad solenoid.

 

I replaced the VB with new OEM and reflashed the mem with a vagcom cable and ssm.

 

Worked legit, car was driving wicked for 6 months and then no reverse when the wife was driving it last weekend. (Actually the reverse was getting weird and started taking a while to engage)

It now works ok when cold... but we're not driving it.

 

Car is at 287hp/335tq currently. I don't want to go 6spd since I sit in traffic ALOT... but I also don't want to be doing rebuilds annually either

 

How many miles?

Sounds like you already know what to do to fix it. 2008s usually are pretty reliable, not sure what's going on with yours.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi toojayzee,

would you mind sharing what were the symptoms and codes related to your TCC,

and how did you got about troubleshooting it and tracing it down a "bad" solenoid?

I am having a similar problem on my built 5EAT, with V1 VB - it happens at partial/low throttle

when the load is changing slightly up. Dont think its a solenoid, but will be happy to listen & learn from your experience.

Thanks in advance

-I

ps: my car, in its previous incarnation, run a ~500hp EFR 7163 turbo, no problems at full throttle - kudos to ClimberD@HexMods! Just that pesky low thourtle issue that keep coming back throwing up P0741 code...

Then I a blew my built motor - currently it's been rebuilt to handle 850hp and is awaiting integration with a 7163 twin scroll - expecting over 600chp.

Edited by KGB
spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone run into a 5EAT that randomly started puking fluid everywhere?

 

Last weekend it started with a grinding noise when turning. Figured it was a wheel bearing but that came back clean per the FSM test. Inner portion of one rotor was warmer than the rest so figured it was a dragging caliper and bought a new break system.

 

Last night while driving in a normal civilized manner it started to smell like something hot. Happens again this morning, but much worse. Initially though CV joint as it smelled similar. Checked underneath tonight and the entire back of the 5EAT was covered with ATF and a good portion of the exhaust down through the Y-pipe.

 

Fluid levels were only a hair low, so it looks like something being sprayed out at high pressure. Are there any case level areas that could leak like this? I presume the pan would be near atmospheric pressure. Also as the fluid level isn't low this dosen't explain the grinding sound.

Edited by utc_pyro
iPhone autocorrect makes me sound slightly more retarded than I actually am
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The wind can take the fluid much further than you think.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi toojayzee,

would you mind sharing what were the symptoms and codes related to your TCC,

and how did you got about troubleshooting it and tracing it down a "bad" solenoid?...

 

I wasn't getting any codes, just symptoms that told me the circuit of fluid was working fine when cold, but the solenoid wouldn't cut the fluid bypass to unlock the converter when warm. I removed it and tested all solenoids.

I don't take cars to repair shops, so the was the next logical step unfortunately was to

Replace with new OEM. And everything works awesome... for a few months.

 

Now reverse works fine when cold, but won't engage solenoid to open fluid circuit to lock clutches for reverse...

and this is an 08' so no mods are avail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my problem is different; it feels like my TCC unlocked prematurely under partial load - probably some inconsistency between the requested torque and actual torque...

It happens mostly while I cruise on the HW on cruise control at ~70-75mph...

i'll be troubleshooting it with the port reader/logger...

When I reset the TCU, the problem goes away, until next time... :(

Again, no issues sifting under full throttle (~450+lbtq!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://i.imgur.com/DHIaL0E.jpg

 

Fahr_side appears to be correct, looks like a low pressure drip getting blown to the back of the car.

 

UV die is showing up around the transmission pan, so it looks like they didn't seal it up properly post valve body install. There is also a lot of fluid around the joint where they pulled the center diff apart, but no dye is showing there so it was likely blown there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, I have a weird issue with my transmission. It performs great when when moving, shifts fine, doesn't slip. But when I first start it up in the morning when it's cold out it stalls when I reverse out of my parking spot. Additionally, when I'm starting from a stop it feels like the transmission is hesitating at a certain point, like it'll accelerate smoothly then stopped accelerating then come back to accelerating all within a second or so. Now I just recently had a failed torque converter that wouldn't unlock so I replaced that, but the hesitation issue continues after the new TC and the stalling in reverse is new. Any ideas what this is?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was that originally as well but it had a newly built motor and just got tuned. The afrs perfect and there are no leaks. The stalling only happens when the transmission is could and on the first reverse, after I restart it doesn't stall again. So that makes me think it's the transmission. Another note is that I'm pushing 310 whp and 330 tq through it and regularly autocross it. So I wouldn't be surprised if something is damaged.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was that originally as well but it had a newly built motor and just got tuned. The afrs perfect and there are no leaks. The stalling only happens when the transmission is could and on the first reverse, after I restart it doesn't stall again. So that makes me think it's the transmission. Another note is that I'm pushing 310 whp and 330 tq through it and regularly autocross it. So I wouldn't be surprised if something is damaged.

 

snow05gtRI is most likely on the right track. The problem is most likely with either your tune or your engine. The transmission isn't going to stall your engine. I could write a 10,000 words about why, but I think you get the point. The ECU is being fed some data that is outside of desired operating range at idle. Load, MAF, MAP, something is off.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
Link to comment
Share on other sites

when I was stage 1+ (stage 1 etune with an intake), my car would semi-regularly stall on cold days after starting it, driving a VERY short distance, and then coming to a stop. RPMs would dip low on idle when I stopped and every now and then the thing would completely stall.

 

Couldn't figure out any reason why with the tuner, even while taking logs during the issue. It was suggested that I bump up the idle RPM to counter it, but I never did that.

 

I upgraded to stage 2 and the problem went away completely. This was like 8 years ago (now further along... since then i have blown an engine, had it rebuilt and went stage 3+, might have blown it again... etc).

 

I think when going to stage 2 I put on cobb down pipe, grimmspeed exhaust manifolds, crossover, and up pipe, and perrin TMIC, and dyno tuned. I had a hell of a mechanic (GTTuner on here) working on the car and he probably zip tied a vacuum line or tinkered with something minor that fixed my issue. Or I had some problem with my old TMIC, or a leak in my intake somewhere, I dunno. All I know is the problem went away after a big mechanical upgrade and a retune.

 

I could speculate that something to do with your torque converter (while fluid is cold) not properly doing its job of keeping the engine running while at a stop, could be contributing to your problem. But ClimberD's post sounds pretty confident that the trans will do nothing to cause the car to stall.

 

If you backed into your driveway instead of pull forward, does it stall on the "first forward" instead of "first reverse" ?

 

The hesitation described in your first post also sounds like fuel delivery problems when the system is cold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a BOV? I see a lot of stalling on autos with a BOV. Anti-stall logic isn't fast enough to catch the sudden swings in AFR caused by the valve fluttering.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was that originally as well but it had a newly built motor and just got tuned. The afrs perfect and there are no leaks. The stalling only happens when the transmission is could and on the first reverse, after I restart it doesn't stall again. So that makes me think it's the transmission. Another note is that I'm pushing 310 whp and 330 tq through it and regularly autocross it. So I wouldn't be surprised if something is damaged.

 

Get BTSSM (or RomRaider) and log it. I had a similar "stalls after a couple of minutes, only when colder outside" issue. Tracked it down to a bunch of misfires (which don't throw a CEL, so harder to diagnose). Misfires moved when I swapped coil packs, so I replaced what turned out to be a non-OEM coil pack with OEM (not sure how it got there, could have been an honest mistake by someone doing spark plug change or whatever) and now it's better.

 

A temporary fix is to get freeSSM and up the idle, but that only lasts until the next ECU reset. It was enough for me to get through the one winter it happened long ago, and hadn't really needed it again until this winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use