got some new stuff for engine R&R

[Mike07LGT]

I really didn't feel any gain from going from the IPR tmic to the GS.

 

But the car was a little off as I knew I had a leak at the TB hose...that will not happen again.

 

 

I had to go back a few years to find a picture of the IPR,

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4365.jpg

 

here's the GS,

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7058_zpsdclzvyn3.jpg

 

I put some of the gold heat tape under the inlet inside of the tmic.

 

Oh i didnt realize you had an aftermarket intercooler on there already before you went to the grimmspeed. That would explain no difference then. I just went from stock tmic to grimmspeed and now im ordering an ebcs and getting retuned

[Merc6]

Wasn't hip to IPR, was that like Perrin and AVO where it was a DIY project each time you put it back on? Looks like IPR didn't have the engine cover tabs on it, i was afraid to drill holes for mine on the Perrin.

[Max Capacity]

Yes it was a knock off. worked well, just had the same hose issues at the TB end.

 

I finally learned how to get it to line up. Had to loosen the turbo so it could slide around, then start all the bolts after you had the TB hose on then tighten the TB hose and begin to tighten the bolts starting at the turbo outlet to tmic. The turbo to DP bolts were last.

[Silinc3r]

Yes it was a knock off. worked well, just had the same hose issues at the TB end.

 

I finally learned how to get it to line up. Had to loosen the turbo so it could slide around, then start all the bolts after you had the TB hose on then tighten the TB hose and begin to tighten the bolts starting at the turbo outlet to tmic. The turbo to DP bolts were last.

 

yea, screw that haha

 

also, all TMIC will heat soak if you are doing triple digits for an extended period of time at triple digit speeds haha

[Max Capacity]

I'll add, Since the GS tmic and bigger radiator, I notice a drop in cold weather driving. I know the gas is different this time of year, but it's hard to keep the DD mpg above 23mpg. During the summer time its easy to get over 24mpg on my DD.

 

Even filling the tank next to the highway, driving 44 miles to home on the highway for 40 of those at 68-70mph, the dash read 23.6mpg.

 

Drove to work today on the highway at 62-65mph, 32 miles then came home on the back roads, over the mountain. As I coasted towards the driveway, the dash read 22.6mpg. Granted the back roads are to much fun...

 

Engine still runs great, took the car to VT last Wednesday after work and came back home Saturday after skiing. It will head back up to VT this Friday and most weekends this winter.

[Tehnation]

Max,

 

The cap on your oil filler is a catch can return system? which one is it if you don't me asking? 6

[Max Capacity]

LOL do you know how often I've looked at it but I still can't remember who made it... I do know I got it off a group buy over on NASIOC years ago.

 

I'll look tonight or tomorrow when I'm in VT.

 

Just have to say again how much fun the car is, last evening on the way home changing from Rt291 to Rt84 East, while following a new STi with an single exhaust, I dropped it onto 3rd at the end of the entrance ramp, man does she have lots of mid-range torque. It so smooth and just pushes you back in the seat and holds you there.

 

Love that vf52. It is loud too. I few month's back a buddy at the body shop after doing a little work, first thing out of his mouth, you can really hear that turbo.

[Rhitter]

No issues with the catch can lines freezing in the cold temps? I know there has been some debate on this board if catch can's really make sense for a DD. (Hicksta's car blowing out the turbo oil seals because of his AOS set-up)

[Max Capacity]

Oh yea, I forgot, just ran outside and checked, SGMotorsports

http://www.tuningworx.com/untitled-sitepage_20

 

If I didn't drive for long distances, it might be an issue. I do notice the brown milky looking stuff on the inside of the Al cap when its very cold out, like -teens F. But I drive at least 28 miles highway just about everyday that time of year, or the 140 miles to VT on the weekends to ski.

Edited December 3, 2016 by Max Capacity

[Rhitter]

That's a very cool AOS, what are the disadvantages of it compared to the more traditional ones like IAGs (actual catch can)?

[Max Capacity]

None that I have noticed.

[Tehnation]

Yea that kit looks awesome, takes up very little space, no actual canister to empty, it just puts the oil back into the system. Makes it pretty much maintenance free.

[Scooby2.5]

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2228499

 

I have had both and believe the crawford which has been around forever works better.

 

I have the V2 because I live in a climate that has cold weather

[Max Capacity]

Yea that kit looks awesome, takes up very little space, no actual canister to empty, it just puts the oil back into the system. Makes it pretty much maintenance free.

 

Bingo....somebody give that man a cookie

 

That's the thought behind it.

[Scooby2.5]

Most of them you don't have to empty.

 

Read that thread above. A guy put clear tubing and shows how the oil cap type doesn't drain well

[MTBwrench]

That's a very cool AOS, what are the disadvantages of it compared to the more traditional ones like IAGs (actual catch can)?

 

I believe the new IAG version is also a true air oil separator, and not a catch can. They've put a baffling system and drain in the bottom now. I personally(having not done a ton of research into the subject) do not like the idea of a catch can for a daily driver. It's another maintenance point to have to look after, and one that has the ability to do some damage as well if not taken care of properly. The glory of an AOS, IMO, is that it's a fully recirculating system. You install it and let it be. I also like that the IAG and Crawford models are heated, as that will work wonders when its 0° outside.

 

(Granted, a catch can probably won't fill up too quickly unless you're tracking the car.)

[Scooby2.5]

Yep I had the grimmspeed first. Swapped to heated Crawford.

[Wasted Potential]

Max Capacity, I remember being concerned about the EJ255 OR EJ257 short block. I just received an email from an employee at Heuberger Subaru and he stated that the Legacy GT is in fact the EJ257 for (at least for my VIN) '05 LGT Wagon. Utilizing different "pistons, rods, and nitride crankshaft" compared to the EJ255.

Part #10103AC870

 

Are you aware if the EJ257 has longer piston skirts than the EJ255?

Have you had any return or occurrence of piston slap at cold temperatures?

I believe I heard some distributors of the OEM block selling ones without nitrided crankshafts with only heat treated units?

 

Are you aware if the EJ257 is forged pistons?

[Max Capacity]

EJ257 of certain years have a Nitrite coated crank. From the past couple years over on NASIOC I think that may no longer true.

 

EJ255 and EJ257 have the same rods, some say EJ257's have a little different piston.

 

It really doesn't matter for 99% of us.

 

When I ordered my EJ257, I was told Subaru will ship the latest EJ257 they are making. Even if I wanted a 2005 ej257 I would have gotten a 2012 ej257.

 

I have not heard any piston noise even when I start the car at -30F.

 

You want a ej257, it one time it was cheaper then a ej255 also.

 

What's more important to a healthy engine is the "Tune" that's why most of us only use one of two Tuners.

[Max Capacity]

While this thread is current, the car will turn 249,000 miles tomorrow. Still can't believe how great the engine runs.

 

Another 5000 miles and the ej257 will have 100,000 miles. That should be in Feb or Mar 2018.

[Wasted Potential]

Quoted $1699 + $130 shipping from Heuberger. If I had the free flowing cash I would let it sit!

 

Do you ever question if you would have preferred a 16g over the VF52?

[Max Capacity]

Quoted $1699 + $130 shipping from Heuberger. If I had the free flowing cash I would let it sit!

 

Do you ever question if you would have preferred a 16g over the VF52?

 

No, I followed the advice of my Tuner, he like's the vf52 over the 16g. That and years of reading about problems with the BNR16g here on the forum.

[rang0]

To confirm, 10103AC050 PN is for a Subaru's latest EJ257 block? I also have an 05 GT 5spd VF52 wagon tuned by mike at TA. My car seems to have a burnt exhaust valve in cyl 4, although I haven't confirmed yet, at 170k. I plan on re-using my heads and putting in an EJ257 and am trying to make sure im asking for the right part number. I'll be calling a local Subaru dealership soon for pricing. Are there other trusted online vendors that sell new EJ257 blocks? I've seen RSD and flatirontuning sells them...

[Wasted Potential]

To confirm, 10103AC050 PN is for a Subaru's latest EJ257 block? I also have an 05 GT 5spd VF52 wagon tuned by mike at TA. My car seems to have a burnt exhaust valve in cyl 4, although I haven't confirmed yet, at 170k. I plan on re-using my heads and putting in an EJ257 and am trying to make sure im asking for the right part number. I'll be calling a local Subaru dealership soon for pricing. Are there other trusted online vendors that sell new EJ257 blocks? I've seen RSD and flatirontuning sells them...

 

Heuberger Subaru in Colorado, short block for $1699 and $130 shipping. Rebuild your heads, slap it all together and transfer over other components and drive.

 

Part number: 10103AC870

Edited November 22, 2017 by Wasted Potential

[gkinslow]

Heuberger Subaru in Colorado, short block for $1699 and $130 shipping. Rebuild your heads, slap it all together and transfer over other components and drive.

 

Part number: 10103AC870

 

Unless you will ever want more power.

 

I'd rather over build one engine than under build and do it a second time.