Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

So, I CUT MY SPRINGS. OOOOH.


turbodog

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 363
  • Created
  • Last Reply
I am a professional data-structure architect, unlicensed in all 50 states, and that diagram makes no sense to me either.

 

The part that really bothers me is that the 'cut' spring has a dimension callout next to it which states that it's 6" long - the same as the original spring - and yet if you look at the pixels it is clearly longer than the uncut spring.

 

Whoever made that diagram clearly had one purpose in mind, and only one: to **** with the minds of complete strangers. Which is pretty awesome if you ask me. I am going to bookmark that picture, because it looks so persuasive from a distance. Next time people start arguing about spring rates, I'm going to lob that into the discussion like a hand grenade, and then I'm going to unsubscribe for a week. Then I'll check in to survey the damage.

 

If you were truly an architect (original definition) I would be concerned that you might be the creator of that graphic masterpiece. I often see really bad technical designs that are persuasively represented by clueless dipshits. They can get very defensive when I try to fix things for them.

 

 

 

I say we all help it go viral. Awesome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While we're here, do you have any comments on doing the DIY alignment? I'm going to make a setup using jack stands and string. The local Firestone does not get it terribly right, and they take hours. Did you do camber? Was thinking a level and a ruler... will crunch the numbers in Excel.

 

To be clear, I'm not endorsing cutting springs! Just asking about the alignment.

 

I have a pretty simple setup that has served me well years now.

 

For toe I use a laser level with a set of clamps that allow attachment to the wheel edges. If you get a large sheet 40-50 feet away from the car and project the points on it from each wheel (both forwards and backwards) you can easily set the toe on all for wheels. you need both the forward and backward measurements to eliminate the effects of wheel + hub run out. alternatively, you can fit a dial gauge to the strut, rotate the wheel and find two points with the same run out and measure in one direction only.

 

For camber I use a TiltBox level with a magnetic clamp.

 

For caster I use the camber measurement while rotating the wheels through a fixed angle. For slip plates, I used to use two sheets of polycarbonate with some grease in between them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use