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So, I CUT MY SPRINGS. OOOOH.


turbodog

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well i didn't cut my bump stops..just rockin' the ones that come inside the bilstien hd's

tho i do have those shorter rce bumpstops that i got off here awhile back..just haven't gotten to installing them yet...

so anyone know the lowest lowering spring option yet??

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so ct08 how much did u cut off to make ur spring tweak and implode like that

 

It was a joke I would never cut my springs only a complete moron would do this. I have Cobb lowering springs on Bilstein shocks

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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http://craig.backfire.ca/img/spring-comparison.png

 

^ because this

 

I am a structural engineer licensed in 6 states, and this diagram makes no sense to me. :confused:

 

When you shorten a spring the rate goes up. Any effects of preload go away once the force on the spring from the weight of the car exceed the preload, and it sure as hell better if you want a working suspension. Say you start with a 15" long spring with K = 200lb/in, and 1000 lbs of static load on it.

 

Deflection = F/K = 1000/200 = 5"

 

Then you cut 1" off it, to make it 14" long. Now K = 200 x (15/14) = 214 lb/in

 

Deflection = 1000/214 = 4.67"

 

Your net drop = 1" - (5-4.67) = 0.67"

 

I am ignoring the specifics of how the spring is made, such as having the end coils in contact with each other to help the spring seat better, or variable rate springs. Just the basic math.

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First, attempted with struts on the car... springs have a huge amount of preload when mounted and it is a fairly short travel strut, so very tricky to work with. Scuffed up the struts a bit getting them off...

 

I find it remarkable that you could be both that lazy AND foolish.

 

Looked at the springs. There seems to be about 3/4 of a coil at the bottom that has a bit of a flatter angle to it to seat on the strut.

 

But since we don't need to seat springs why not just cut it off right?

 

[

Do any of you guys actually know anything about spring theory...I know more about the design and modification of springs than everyone in this thread, combined. Period.

 

You don't know shyt about anyone in this thread then proceed to make false declarative statements proving how clueless you are. Period.

 

You screwed up, just admit it and move on.

 

The "cut springs bad" myth started in the 90's, from what I recall. People were massively cutting springs or torching them to acheive a ~3" drop. Obviously this is not going to work well, and people identified cut springs as entirely wrong, which is far from the reality.

 

I love it when middle management pretends to be a mechanical engineer. Not only did you NOT calculate first, you did not cut to calculation.:lol: You sir should stop trying to defend yourself. You only dig deeper.

 

PCurious how you altered it to make it fit well into the seat after cutting it, since the bottom and top are formed to the perches.

 

Stop trying to confuse the thread with logic. This guy has none.

 

Did you learn about springs.....? So, get out your textbox, measure a subaru strut spring, and figure out what cutting a 1/4 coil off the bottom is going to do. I dare you.

 

Its going to ruin my spring to perch connection and daring me wont make me ruin suspension components.

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I am a structural engineer licensed in 6 states, and this diagram makes no sense to me. :confused:

 

When you shorten a spring the rate goes up. Any effects of preload go away once the force on the spring from the weight of the car exceed the preload, and it sure as hell better if you want a working suspension. Say you start with a 15" long spring with K = 200lb/in, and 1000 lbs of static load on it.

 

Deflection = F/K = 1000/200 = 5"

 

Then you cut 1" off it, to make it 14" long. Now K = 200 x (15/14) = 214 lb/in

 

Deflection = 1000/214 = 4.67"

 

Your net drop = 1" - (5-4.67) = 0.67"

 

I am ignoring the specifics of how the spring is made, such as having the end coils in contact with each other to help the spring seat better, or variable rate springs. Just the basic math.

 

Awesome post. Thanks for demonstrating how simple it actually is.

 

(clairification - you are talking about reducing the length of the spring by 1")

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I Not only did you NOT calculate first, you did not cut to calculation.

 

I calculated first. Based on measurements of the compressed static spring, and the known approx spring rate, I figured by cutting a 1/4 coil (6"), I would get a max of 3/8" drop and a ~5% increase in rate. Since the actual 1/4 coil cut is a dead or semi dead coil, the actual change is less.

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Its going to ruin my spring to perch connection and daring me wont make me ruin suspension components.

 

The spring - perch connection was not affected. The spring seats perfectly well, since only a 1/4 coil was removed.

 

If you've ever taken apart a strut assembly you would know this. But I'm guessing you don't work on your own car.

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