AVO Project Outback part 1

[apexjapan]

Sadly, no - a lot of Legacy owners would be happy if it was! That's definitely the 02-07 Impreza fuel pump, but anybody trying to install that in a 05+ Legacy is in for a shock.

I owned a 05 Legacy Sedan long before this Outback, and the fuel pump in it is the same as the one I just replaced.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[B-BGTLimited]

Ok, well then at least that's what I'm expecting to find for the Impreza I'm going to be working on.

 

Did you by chance check the secondary pickup strainer on the other side of the tank? or do they not provide an access port to get to that?

 

But now that I go back and check, yes you are correct, the illustrations for the 03+ legacy's are all the same as what you pictured... which means there is absolutely no filter you can change on those other than the pickup sock, which IIRC can only be obtained by buying a completely new pump.

[N.sane]

Thanks for another detailed write-up!

 

Is this the fuel pump you installed?

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/product_info.php?products_id=629

 

Or is the N/A one different?

[apexjapan]

I installed a low-mileage OEM fuel pump with new mount (that has a fuel filter inside of it as well). So you *can* install the AVO hi-flow fuel pump in a NA, but we didn't at this time.

 

See, the final project on this car will be our new turbo kit. And we know cost of installing the kit is an important factor for many people. So we want to see where the OEM fuel components max out at before we think of replacing them. And as we are not working with a new car, I'm also doing these maintenance operations to make sure everything is operating at 100%. When we install the kit and start tuning, we need to have the car working as best possible.

 

So I pulled the fuel pump and injectors as those can be a trouble area. The injectors came back from Doctor Injector in Lynnwood - great guy - and after cleaning and flow testing, he got another 11-12% flow out of the injectors from when he started. At $25 an injector, that's a lot cheaper than a set of new injectors. Plus we know *exactly* what we are working with. The results are going off to the engineers and they'll have a think about the capability of the stock injectors with a turbo kit.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[apexjapan]

Today was hell day. The day of doom. The day I did injectors...

 

You will need to remove the inlet hose and MAF holder/lid of the airbox to start with. You don't need to remove anything on the drivers side of the car.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_001.jpg

 

This is going to be the most annoying part of the removal process. There is a plate on either side of the engine "protecting" the injector area from stray meteors or being shot by Dirty Harry. The two bolts on the top (14mm) are not hard at all to reach. The one at the front, on the side, has very little space in front of it. While the passenger side is doable, the driver's side is in a very tight location behind a sensor and covered by various piping. Which means you'll be removing it with a 14mm wrench, 1mm at a time. Go grab a beer and celebrate after you get it out.

 

Finally, there is one underneath, at the back end of the engine. You can't see it, but you can feel it. It's fairly easy to reach and remove with socket/ratchet, especially relative to the front one.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_002.jpg

 

Now you get to look at the actual fuel rail and injectors. Unclip the wiring harness from the injectors.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_003.jpg

 

Now, despite the impression of this high pressure fuel system ready to explode on you at any moment, the fuel injectors are held into the engine by the fuel rail itself. There is two 14mm bolts that hold it down. Remove those bolts, and you can just pull the injectors out from the engine, and then out from the rail itself.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_004.jpg

 

At this point you'll have wished you pressure washed the engine. Despite the appearance of being tightly sealed into it's hole, there's actually enough space around the injector for all this dirt to build. Run upstairs, find the vacuum, get that attachment thingy going and suck all that dirt out.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_005.jpg

 

And here's your injector in all it's glory.

 

Three O-rings on it. That'll be the cause of some pain in the future… These were taken to Doctor Injector in Lynnwood, Washington. Really nice bloke, knew his stuff. He cleaned them out quite well, and I gained another 12% of flow.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_006.jpg

 

New O-rings were also installed. Take note: if you look for the bottom O-ring at the dealer, they may be out of stock. Napa Autoparts carries metric O-rings that are close enough. Get the smallest that you can shoehorn on. Then grease the O-rings before replacing.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_007.jpg

 

Install is pretty much the reverse of taking them out. This is where the cursing will start, though. You need to be extra careful when putting the injectors back into the fuel rail, because you can rip the O-ring, which will cause it to spew gas out the side when it pressurizes. Ask me how I know that…

 

So then you unbolt it again, re-do the O-rings, find the ripped one, and run back to the Napa swearing a blue streak and promising yourself to make sure and buy extra O-rings this time. Put O-ring back on, re-grease, re-install, bolt in, and turn it over again. Yay!!!

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/injectors/inj_008.jpg

 

So was it worth it? For what we are doing, yeah. Especially considering that the injectors were down 11% in performance from new. Add in the fuel pump that looked like it was probably on it's last legs and you get a high probability of fueling issues in the future.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[OhBe1]

For reference, back on the suspension, the JDM 20mm bar is hollow, and I think about the equivalent of a 18mm solid, assuming same alloy, etc. Works quite well with the OEM front bar, although I'd consider it to still provide considerable understeer; Tossing it into the corner as mentioned above get sit neat neutral.

Poly bushings & stock endlinks all around.

Note '06 had the winter package with viscous LSD standard.

[B-BGTLimited]

Didn't answer my other question about the fuel pump pickup... Did you check/change the sock that's on the other side of the tank?

 

I just checked my Impreza Outback and there are two access ports in the trunk and the tank shows two pickups, due to the hump for the rear drive shaft. I bought the filter and that secondary pickup sock to replace and since the main sock is part of the pump, I'll just clean it as much as I can.

[GEE-OTTO]

Didn't answer my other question about the fuel pump pickup... Did you check/change the sock that's on the other side of the tank?

 

I just checked my Impreza Outback and there are two access ports in the trunk and the tank shows two pickups, due to the hump for the rear drive shaft. I bought the filter and that secondary pickup sock to replace and since the main sock is part of the pump, I'll just clean it as much as I can.

 

soak it some diesel fuel

[apexjapan]

For anybody interested in the Fuel Pump assembly install, I've updated the DIY with some more photos and instructions of the O-ring's. These are very important to get right!

 

Why do I know this? Because when I started up the car finally after getting the injectors done and the fuel pump back together, the pump was a bit noisy occasionally. It did start up ok after a few cranks, and it ran ok. It wasn't until I did some 2nd gear pulls that I noticed it fell flat on it's face after 4000rpm.

 

So nothing for it, checked the injectors for air leaks (none), then pulled the Fuel Pump assembly back out. Pulled it apart, checked the O-rings... Yeah, one of the O-rings was kinked. Un-kink it, put them all back on properly, clip every thing up, re-install in the tank, sniff some more gas fumes, turn it over, panic, connect the battery up again, turn it over.... crank crank crank vrooooom. All good. Actually, quite good now. Starts up quicker than before, idles a lot smoother. Driving around, it feels more responsive at the low end, and runs up to redline very smoothly.

 

So mission successful. It was a bit of work, but the engine is running 100% better. It's pulling as hard as when it was new, idling smooth, and just all around feels better.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[apexjapan]

Sorry it's been a bit quiet - it's been really busy with the end of the month. I'll be gone tomorrow as well, but hopefully Friday I can sit down and install the rear reinforcement bracket, and start planning out the rest of the suspension - lca bushings front and rear, then new struts/spring setup.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[apexjapan]

Did another 350 mile trip to Portland and back. Cleaning the injectors and/or replacing the fuel pump filter has had an effect, gained another 1 mpg from the last trip, even though I had a massive headwind on the way back up. Was hitting 30mpg when I was cruising at 60, so doing pretty good after all that work.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[N.sane]

Appreciate the frequent updates! What are you planning to use for springs/struts?

[thestratomaster]

any updates on the intake?

[B-BGTLimited]

Ok, so I went for a quick look in my car... Obviously the fuel access ports are NOT in the same spot on the LGT as the wagon...

 

Are mine located under my rear seat? And how is that removed. I'm going to go search for a write up now to see if there is anything for the non wagon applications.

 

I did however find BOTH ports on my fiance's Impreza, so I'll be able to do the pump filter and the secondary pickup filter as well.

 

 

 

EDIT* Found the info... I didn't realize removing the seat bottom was as easy as pulling up... I was looking at it and saying it feels like its just clipped in like everything else in this car but I thought that would be too easy... LOL

[CDN 2.5i]

Sorry it's been a bit quiet - it's been really busy with the end of the month. I'll be gone tomorrow as well, but hopefully Friday I can sit down and install the rear reinforcement bracket, and start planning out the rest of the suspension - lca bushings front and rear, then new struts/spring setup.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

 

Looking forward to the lca bushing update. I have my offset AVO bushings ready to be installed. I'm assuming you will be using the offset model? I'm particularly interested in the orientation of the offset when pressing them in to the control arm.

 

thanks

Andrew

[apexjapan]

Back under the car finally. Not that I missed it all *that* much, but it was good to get back at finishing up the suspension bits. Since our rear swaybar mount reinforcement brackets came in in some numbers last week, I snagged a pair and got ready to install them. As usual, I put the rear of the Outback up on ramps and got the tools I needed together.

 

The first thing you will need for this job: A set of our thick steel reinforcement brackets.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_001.jpg

 

The Tools: 12mm socket, 19mm socket, extension to use with the 19mm socket, and most importantly of all, the big mofo breaker bar. Saves you many pulled muscles...

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_002.jpg

 

The install location: The bracket mounts at the swaybar mount and the rear diff member. 12mm nuts on the swaybar bushing brackets, and 19mm nut on the rear diff.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_003.jpg

 

You may as well get the hernia out of the way first - unbolt the big nut from the rear diff member. Do this one side at a time, so that the rear differential stays up where it is. This will save you a lot of hassle.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_004.jpg

 

It's pretty much one lonnnnng bolt with that round metal washer thingy. Thin, blackish fluid came out both sides of mine when I unbolted it. I don't know if it's from water building up inside, a liquid-filled bushing that broke, or the car crying tears of joy that it's being paid attention to.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_005.jpg

 

Next, unbolt the bushing bracket and remove it. Leave the bushing itself in place.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_006.jpg

 

What you need to do with the bracket is remove the little tab at the top, as it will interfere with bolting the bracket on to the new reinforcement bracket. This is quite simple, use any pliers or similar and simply work it back and forth, it comes off quite easily.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_007.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_008.jpg

 

Now work the new AVO reinforcement bracket inbetween the bushing and the OEM mount. This is pretty easy to do, just pull the rear swaybar back far enough to slide it in, you don't need to remove the endlinks or anything like that.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_009.jpg

 

Now you can put the big 19mm bolt back into the rear diff member to help get things lined up. The bolt holes for the bushing bracket are slotted to give everything a bit of wiggle room. Only lightly bolt it up, enough turns to just make sure the bolt is in place.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_010.jpg

 

Then get the bushing bracket on and the two 12mm bolts back in. Lightly bolt them up, don't tighten them up all the way. You want the reinforcement bracket to be loose enough to move around.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_011.jpg

 

Then you fully tighten up the 19mm bolt, as that will get the reinforcement bracket straight into place where it's supposed to go. At this point you may notice that your OEM rear mount doesn't fully line up with the bracket on one side or the other, or both. That's simply because the OEM mount has bent, either naturally over time, or because it got tweaked from some outside source or the stock bar. Bigger than stock bars will almost certainly twist them a bit over time.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/bracket/bracket_013.jpg

 

My passenger side bracket was just fine, it bolted straight up to it and everything lined up perfectly. The driver's side, however, was fairly tweaked. The OEM mount was twisted and bent a bit towards the front of the car. This made it a bit difficult to get the bushing bracket back on, but once it was, and once I tightened everything up, it got pulled back into place.

 

Afterwards I took it for a short spin, to get a feel for it and make sure it was all settled in. The rear end felt *very* solid at this point, and turn in improved a bit. Quite nice, it's feeling great now. The great thing about these brackets is that they improve the performance of the rear bar, as it's not losing some of it's effect by simply twisting the mounts.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[nemo]

<3 this thread.

 

I've had those brackets sitting on my workbench for like a year. I haven't been able to break the 19mm bolt lose. I guess I should get a big ass cheater pipe

[B-BGTLimited]

After being under my car recently and grabbing a hold of the swaybar and seeing how much play is actually in it due to those mounts... this is DEFINITELY going to be on my to do list.

[BoozeRS05]

<3 this thread.

 

I've had those brackets sitting on my workbench for like a year. I haven't been able to break the 19mm bolt lose. I guess I should get a big ass cheater pipe

 

 

I used a tire iron like below, even placement of power on each side, broke the bolt loose no problem.

 

http://narcosphere.narconews.com/userfiles/tireiron.jpg

 

+1, great thread, and great brackets altho the clearance to my magnaflow cbe and JDM rsb is millimeters b/c of these (sometimes rubs).

[TSiWRX]

I used my 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.

[B-BGTLimited]

None of you guys have air tools? I'm somewhat surprised that a bolt's tightness will stop someone from installing a $90 set of brackets.

[nemo]

^ Nope, no air tools.

 

I usually have a bunch of things to do. I always start with those and then give up and move on to the next thing, and never get around to going back to the brackets

[TSiWRX]

None of you guys have air tools?

 

At the next house, I will.

 

Need a real compressor.

[dschultz]

The torque on that bolt is about 90lbs-ft if I recall, so unless you have a shop grade air tool compressor and honk'n big impact wrench it will not come out without maunal labour.

Plus the bolt is 6" long so it will just twist a little as the impact hammers on it and never really undo.

 

99% on my work is done with quality hand tools, cheap tools make for expensive repairs. I use the air tools for blowing things out and grinding things down.

[TSiWRX]

^ Right tool for the right job.

 

Besides, it's a good workout!