AVO Project Outback part 1

[toreadorranger]

The torque on that bolt is about 90lbs-ft if I recall, so unless you have a shop grade air tool compressor and honk'n big impact wrench it will not come out without maunal labour.

Plus the bolt is 6" long so it will just twist a little as the impact hammers on it and never really undo.

 

99% on my work is done with quality hand tools, cheap tools make for expensive repairs. I use the air tools for blowing things out and grinding things down.

 

You need some better tools if your you impact wrench cant take off a bolt with 90 ftlbs of torque.

[dschultz]

That's tightening torque, not removal torque which will be many times higher to break it loose. And long bolts twist along their length absorbing the motion of the impact hammer in the wrench before that motion ever gets to the locked in threaded part.

So you'd need shop grade air tools ($000's), not weekend mechanic grade.

[toreadorranger]

That's tightening torque, not removal torque which will be many times higher to break it loose. And long bolts twist along their length absorbing the motion of the impact hammer in the wrench before that motion ever gets to the locked in threaded part.

So you'd need shop grade air tools ($000's), not weekend mechanic grade.

 

$200-300 bucks will get you a impact wrench capable of 450-600 ftlbs reverse torque. More then enough for a 90ftlb tighted bolt.

[dschultz]

That maybe true. You also need a compressor capable of supplying the volume of air needed to run the tool at its max. That's probably 5+CFM at 90 psi. Then you also need a hose large enough to pass that volume of air as fast or faster that the tool can consume it. So I expect 1/2" or larger diameter. All these factor add up to $00's where a 2 foot quality breaker bar is under $50.

[thestratomaster]

who cares what tool you use, as long as it works

[apexjapan]

Finally here - the lower control arm bushings. Probably the most terrifying job of the suspension bits, simply because it involves the wholesale removal of the front control arms on both sides. Not a job you want to enter without preparation. A buddy along to help wouldn't hurt as well, but you can do the job yourself. I know, because I did, and I'm no racing team mechanic on the side. However, this does require some leaps of faith and a willingness to beat on your suspension bits with rubber mallet. Vigorously.

 

Now with this job, you better make sure you have a full set of tools on hand.

 

In addition to a good jack, and a set of jackstands, you will need these: Rubber Mallet, Crow bar, breaker bar, 19mm sockets, 17mm sockets and wrench, sockets or the AVO tools for pressing out bushes, beer, sweat, bandages, and a vocabulary that will make your mum wash your mouth out.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_001.jpg

 

Before you jack the car up, unbolt the front swaybar endlinks. If you have AVO endlinks (of course!) a 14mm socket and wrench will do. Otherwise, whichever tools necessary for the endlinks you do have on there.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_002.jpg

 

Jack up the car, and put the jackstands under the rails or other reinforced areas. You'll be attacking three areas to get the the LCA (Lower Control Arm) off.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_003.jpg

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_004.jpg

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_005.jpg

 

I started with the most fun part first, the ball joint attaching the LCA to the front strut and brake assembly. This is simple (allegedly), you remove the 14mm nut here, and pop the ball joint out of the arm.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_006.jpg

 

Simple… Unless your ball joint has rusted itself in. This is wear a rubber mallet, crowbar, swearing, and an ability to direct some anger towards your car would help. Get the crowbar in there between the LCA and the strut assembly, and start cranking away. It *will* come out - eventually.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_008.jpg

 

After that, you can tackle the easy part - get the 17mm socket in on one side, 17mm wrench on the other, and unbolt the arm. Just pull the big bolt out after you've removed the nut, it's not that hard at all.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_009.jpg

 

In comparison to the ball joint, the last bit is fairly easy as well. There's one 19mm nut and two 19mm bolts holding a bracket on, that holds in the large LCA rear bushing. You may need the breaker bar at this point to get them loose.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_010.jpg

 

And there you go - the LCA is off the car! If your car isn't only a week old, the arms will be covered in grime. Clean them up, it'll save you cleaning your hand every 10 seconds over the next stage.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_011.jpg

 

Now, getting the old bushings out and the new bushings in can be done with a big vise and a couple of extra hands. But I took the control arms down to Smart Service Shoreline on Ballinger Way. They've been good customers of ours, and were willing to let me borrow their press for an hour. Using the official™ AVO bushing removal tools (two socket-like affairs designed precisely for removal), we pressed the old bushings out. If you are using the AVO tools, don't forget to lube up the smaller socket that goes into the arm, so that you can get it back out again easily.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_012.jpg

 

The old bushing, now out. You can probably just make out the fact that it's ripped. In fact, both sides were ripped - pretty common with these.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_013.jpg

 

Now it's time to press in the AVO bushings. If you have offset bushings, make sure the offset is pointing in towards the center of the car. There is a lip on the bushings, this needs to go on top. The bushing is pushed in from the top till it's basically flush.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_014.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_16.jpg

[apexjapan]

Since I already had the control arm out, and with a bench press handy, I removed the bushings at the front as well.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_017.jpg

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_018.jpg

 

The AVO front bushings for the LCA go in a lot easier than the big bushing - just grease them up well with the supplied grease and push them in.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_019.jpg

 

Then slide the metal sleeve in after greasing it up as well. It's a little tougher, but you can do it with a rubber mallet or a small vise.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_020.jpg

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_021.jpg

 

If your ball joints were like mine, I suggest removing the rust from them. Here's what the lower control arms look like after getting everything in!

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_022.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_023.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_024.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/lca/lca_025.jpg

 

As usual, install is a reverse of removal. Except that everything is a bit tighter now with all the bushings. This is where the rubber mallet starts getting some real use as you hammer everything into place, especially the front of the lower control arm, as the new bushings makes this a bit of work. The rear of the control arm is a cinch in comparison. Then you get to do the ball joint last. Lube up the ball joint itself, that helps heaps in getting it back in. Then you need to basically push down on the control arm and pull the strut assembly over on top of the ball joint. Once you have the top in, put a jack underneath the lower control arm, on the nut beneath the ball joint, and jack it up to put some pressure on it to slide it in. It won't hurt to whack the strut assembly with the rubber mallet to help get it situated. [/i]

 

Whew! Job done!

 

…Whoops, not yet. First, you will want to lower the car to the ground. If you have enough space, get underneath and attach the endlinks to the swaybar. Get some ramps if you don't. Then, with the car on the ground, loosen off all the bolts holding the new bushings on, then tighten them up again. This is essential for getting them sitting properly in the car.

 

Now your done! Go for a ride, I guarantee you will enjoy it!

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[thestratomaster]

They really make a difference?

[apexjapan]

Yes! Honestly, the big front lca bushing is one of the weakest points of the suspension. A lot of that sloppy feeling in the front comes from them.

 

Basically, because they are so large, there's quite a bit of movement in them. The way the arm rotates on them is unidirectional, so what happens when you are in a corner, the right arm and the left arm tends to deflect in different directions, especially if one side hits a bump. This changes the caster and toe on each wheel, independent of the other. If you ever wondered why you have to do so many mid-corner corrections of the steering wheel - this is why. The AVO poly bushings take a huge amount of the slop out, improving everything tremendously.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[CDN 2.5i]

Thanks for that Paul - can't wait to install my AVO LCA bushings

[thestratomaster]

Cool! Thanks for the info, I'll have to look into getting some of these. I think I'm scared to take those out myself though hah

 

Yes! Honestly, the big front lca bushing is one of the weakest points of the suspension. A lot of that sloppy feeling in the front comes from them.

 

Basically, because they are so large, there's quite a bit of movement in them. The way the arm rotates on them is unidirectional, so what happens when you are in a corner, the right arm and the left arm tends to deflect in different directions, especially if one side hits a bump. This changes the caster and toe on each wheel, independent of the other. If you ever wondered why you have to do so many mid-corner corrections of the steering wheel - this is why. The AVO poly bushings take a huge amount of the slop out, improving everything tremendously.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

www.avoturboworld.com

[nemo]

Paul, why didn't you just drop the castle nut instead of taking the whole ball joint out of the knuckle?

[apexjapan]

While it looks simpler, they can be a real pain sometimes, much more than the ball joint that, theoretically, should come out fairly easy if it's not too rusted in....

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[TSiWRX]

Great write-up. This thread delivers! Thank you!

[dschultz]

If you don't have a shop press, I'd suggest a tool such as this:

http://www.princessauto.com/tools/auto-repair/auto-repair/8309338-ball-joint-remover-installer-set

I have used mine for many many jobs and is the best tool I've purchased in a long long time. I've used it on my truck, car and motorcycles to remove/replace bearings, bushing, u-joints, ball joints, etc.

[nemo]

^ you can rent one of those from autozone.

 

or build your own with some threaded rod, washers, nuts, and a couple plumbing parts for like $10

[apexjapan]

Finally got some driving in, it's been far too busy around here. The car still hasn't been aligned, but that is going to wait till the next phase is done. Even so, it is tracking a lot straighter on the freeway with the increased castor. Turn in is fairly electric now. This is the stage where you start wishing for better rubber, because the feedback is so much better that you can feel how crappy the tires are. Pretty much screaming "high mileage economy mpg craptasticness" at me.

 

For an Outback, the handling has improved to the point where you will get annoyed at the people in the "normal" cars holding you up in the corners. It's not a ferrari, but it is far better than average. I think I would have some fun at the gymkhana with this setup as is.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[Richard_Mtl]

Paul, Any updates on the intake?

 

- Richard

[apexjapan]

Just a general sort - we are in the process of creating a 66mm intake specific to the Outback. This would allow for fitment without tuning for it. The 70mm intake for the Legacy GT will fit as is, but I'd have to suggest tuning to compensate for the larger difference in airflow with it.

 

I'll probably be fitting the LGT intake in the next week and dialing it in to see how that works.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[Pawlwawl06]

Any chance we will see more DIY maintenance and general up-keep, such as the PCV valve, for example? You should keep some type of journal in your first post, kinda like a table of contents of some sort

[nemo]

^ that.

[apexjapan]

Well, I'll cover the basic maintenance that I have to do here and there, but, for instance, if the PCV isn't bad, I don't have much reason to change it.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[apexjapan]

Well now… Been spending a lot of time on the suspension, time to start looking at some performance. Up first on the plate (or more accurately, the concrete) is the AVO dual mufflers for the Outback. These are different from the mufflers for the Legacy sedan/wagon only in the tip - because of the design of the Outback rear bumper and standard mufflers, we needed to make some down turned tips. We got that done this year, and they've been a swimmingly good success - to the point that I had to wait a bit to get some for myself!

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_001.jpg

 

This is a fairly easy job, and especially if you have an Outback that is on the standard suspension, you could even possibly get away with the car just as it is. I used ramps to make it a bit easier to work on and to take some pictures. Don't attempt this job with a hot exhaust!. I get just as impatient as the rest of you, but trust me, let it cool down for a bit first...

 

One of the simpler tool lists - 1 x 14mm socket, 1 x 14mm wrench, and WD40 to lubricate the muffler bearings. Um, I mean, to lubricate the hangers.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_002.jpg

 

Unbolt the mufflers from the center pipe assembly. It's basically two 14mm nut/bolt sets per side. If the car is more than a couple of weeks old, they'll be a tad bit rusty, expect to put some shoulder into it.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_003.jpg

 

There's two hangers, one at the front, and one at the rear. Start with the front hanger. To get them up, get out the WD40 and spray the hangers so that they will slide out easily.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_004.jpg

 

Then lube up the rear hanger and slide it out last. The easiest method is to reach up and pinch the rubber hanger and the end of the rod to slide it out, otherwise you'll end up fighting to get it off.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_005.jpg

 

Then lube up the hangers on the AVO mufflers and slide them on, first onto the rear hanger, then on to the front.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_006.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_007.jpg

 

Do the muffler up to the center pipe, but don't tighten it down entirely. Do up the other side, and again, don't tighten it up fully. Then adjust the mufflers till they are straight, then start tightening up each side fully. You might need to loosen the center pipe at the other end to give it some wiggle room, so you can get them lined up just right.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_008.jpg

 

And there you go!

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_009.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/08/outback_mufflers/mufflers_010.jpg

 

I've also done a video right after the install, of the sound at idle and taking off. The mufflers actually need to get broken in a bit, they will get a bit throatier as they go.

 

Video here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZywHgcyqWs]YouTube- ‪AVO Mufflers on a Subaru 2.5i Outback‬‎[/ame]

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[N.sane]

AVO mufflers FTW! I love mine

[OhBe1]

Or, with longer hangers, you could go with the LGT axelback.