dschultz Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I must be reading that wrong. The filter gave it 13hp and 7lb/ft??? Ditto. Amazing if correct. The baseline run probably didn't get to peak power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Find the rear camber adjustment bolt, and mark it. Otherwise you will end up needing an alignment afterwards. The Outback has rear camber bolt? Didnt know that, I know the Legacy's dont have one...The Outback one should work on the Legacy??, and its not very technical so it cant be that expensive edit: I remembered I bought that part at dealer before and bolt length was too short...wondered if I got the wrong part That original statement is incorrect. The bolt pictured is the rear toe adjustment bolt. There is no stock rear camber adjustment. You can add it as an aftermarket upgrade, i.e.: Whiteline KCA399. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 i was merely expressing my pleasant surprise at the additional torque. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 Toe adjustment, correct. I couldn't remember the exact name when I was typing things up, so just threw in the closest approximation. Just to clarify, the baseline run was with the OEM filter that has been in the car for an indeterminate amount of time: And it was none too clean.... http://www.avoturboworld.com/media/dirty_filter.jpg So along with the usual disclaimer of YMMV, overall difference in power will differ on a new OEM vs. new AVO I'm sure. So this also illustrates the benefits of running a clean filter. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 OK, that makes more sense. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/underbrace/brace_008.jpg Does the smaller bracket on the bottom right preclude the use of the rear sway bar reinforcement brackets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Toe adjustment, correct. I couldn't remember the exact name when I was typing things up, so just threw in the closest approximation. Just to clarify, the baseline run was with the OEM filter that has been in the car for an indeterminate amount of time: And it was none too clean.... http://www.avoturboworld.com/media/dirty_filter.jpg So along with the usual disclaimer of YMMV, overall difference in power will differ on a new OEM vs. new AVO I'm sure. So this also illustrates the benefits of running a clean filter. Regards, Paul Hansen www.avoturboworld.com I vote AVO Panel Filter replacement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 7, 2010 Author Share Posted July 7, 2010 Does the smaller bracket on the bottom right preclude the use of the rear sway bar reinforcement brackets? I was lying on my back shooting that, so the angle may not be quite right - the smaller bracket is towards the front of the car. It's bolted to another brace point. The rear stabilizer bar bracket bolts at another point further rear of the bigger bracket. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDN 2.5i Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Ah, cool. I wasn't sure if it was the same mounting point. I'll take another look under my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briancox22 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 Subscribed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hops Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Bad ass! Subscribe. Buy my cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamDestruction Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 I haven't had time to attack the other suspension pieces, and have a big trip tomorrow, so I decided to replace the spark plugs first. During that process, I removed the battery for the first time... Nice, aye? http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/battery/battery_01.jpg Cleaned up the tie down at least http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/battery/battery_02.jpg Marginally better.... http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/battery/battery_03.jpg Now, that was all nice and good, but the real story was the replacement of the spark plugs... I had taken the battery out, then the main parts of the airbox, so that I could reach the plugs. It's still a tight fit, but doable with a few extensions and patience. Plus one of those handy extendable magnet tools to pick the spark plug up and out of that looong deep hole it's in. The reward was this: http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/battery/holy_frijoles.jpg Soo...... I don't think they replaced the sparkplugs for about, say, 182,000 miles. What do you guys think?? BTW, for some reason, it's running much better now. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malt Beverage Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Looks like it might be time for valve cover gaskets too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 Gee, why do you say that? >.> We'll get the injectors cleaned and flow tested while we are at it, and do the cam cover gaskets and timing belt. We want to see how far we can go on the stock injectors with the turbo kit before we move up to larger injectors (if we have to). Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Thanks for keeping us 2.5i guys in mind. I'll be watching this thread closely for ideas. Plan on doing sway bars, end links, and under body braces. Hopefully the turbo kit as well when its complete. This will be a great thread for upgrading our 2.5i's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 I think the real question here is did you use my 2.5i Spark Plug Removal DIY Guide? New covers and plug seals should keep them pearly for a while. And if there where in there for 182K they look good I swap mine every 20K miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 I might have glanced through it... Visited Rallitek to drop off a lot of loot, and picked up some new spark plug leads off them. Got about 26.5 mpg average - gets about 28 if I'm held up in traffic and have to stay at 60-65mph, otherwise drops to 24mpg at 75. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Is it any snappier with new plugs? Wait... EDIT: Do those look like mismatched sparkplugs or is it just me? Two of them look like they're platinum, and two look like coppers! Did two of them wear down more significantly perhaps if they're all platinums? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 My next change (this weekend) i may switch to copper to see what tha bizz is LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Is it any snappier with new plugs? Wait... EDIT: Do those look like mismatched sparkplugs or is it just me? Two of them look like they're platinum, and two look like coppers! Did two of them wear down more significantly perhaps if they're all platinums? No no, they are all the same brand! The previous owner or the previous owner's mechanic didn't have gee-otto's plug replacement guide and only replaced the two plugs they could reach without removing the battery and airbox. ! It does feel snappier, the partial throttle response is better. Gas mileage may have gone up as well, but I wasn't going to test the previous plugs to find out! Once I get a chance to put the new Rallitek plug leads on, I'll take the car out and do some logs to see where it stacks up to before. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Well, I've been playing around with the romraider road dyno thing, from the logged files. Here's a comparison of our baseline run when we first got the car, vs. the car with new plugs, new oil, avo panel filter and new rallitek plug leads. IAM was at 0.81 with the baseline, and it's at .5-.75 during the last run as I had reset the ecu. http://www.avoturboworld.com/media/comparison_3.png Right now we are thinking that the fuel injectors are a bit clogged - so before I will do any more logging, the injectors are going to come out and get cleaned, and the fuel filter on the fuel pump will be replaced as well. Regards, Paul Hansen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Todays task was one of the simple ones. The stock front endlinks were coming out, and heavy duty AVO endlinks were going in. This is one of the easier jobs to do, especially if you are using ramps. It's actually harder to do if you jack the car in the air, as that causes the swaybar to twist, and can make it difficult to get the endlinks on and off. When the car is sitting on it's suspension as normal, there is no tension on the swaybar, making this much easier. The standard endlink in all it's glory.http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_01.jpg You will need a 14mm wrench and a 3/16 allen head to get the stock endlink off. The Allen head goes into the top of the bolt, then the 14mm wrench to slowly take off the nut. It's the hardest part of the job because of the buildup of rust and gunk.http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_02.jpg Despite the height of the Outback suspension compared to a Legacy wagon, it still uses the 50mm front endlink.http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_03.jpg Use the supplied grease packet to grease up the polyurethane on the endlink, this is to keep it from binding. The AVO endlinks come with two different sets of nuts/bolts and metal sleeves. This is because some Subaru models use the same 50mm endlink, but have a smaller bolt size on the suspension. You will be using the larger one. The endlink has a notch in it - this goes on the bottom, towards the front lower arm. It provides the necessary space to keep it from hitting the suspension.http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_05.jpg The actual install went a lot faster and smoother than the removal of the OEM endlinks, mainly because you can use a 14mm socket at this stage to tighten it all down. I found after the removal that both the passenger side and driver's side OEM endlinks had broken their ball joint at the top. This made them rather loose, and was allowing a lot of movement on the front swaybar - I could rattle it around with ease with one hand. I will get a drive report later, but I'm already anticipating that it'll feel a bit tighter in the front end now. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_04.jpg http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_06.jpg Tomorrow, I'll see about replacing the front swaybar bushings, the ones on the car look like a football teams condom after a road trip. Regards, Paul Hansenhttp://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Looks like it might be time for valve cover gaskets too! Obviously I'm missing something. What in the pic indicates that? 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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