apexjapan

The reason they are paranoid is because in Japan, they break down the cars by the actual year it was manufactured, and then the model revision. So your car is a BL, rev. B, Model Year 2005. See, the problem is, here in America they sell cars within a certain period of the end of the year, and they then call it the next year's model. That's extremely confusing when you think about it, and makes getting the exact part for some cars hard. For instance, we have DBW controllers that need a different wiring harness between pre-2006 models and post 2006 models. But because Subaru would call some 2005 models 2006, they didn't use the newer harness. And it's random which is which. That's why you need a VIN at a dealer to get some parts.

I still have that 08-09 Liberal Front Bumper to go with those fenders..

No, sorry. The bumpers generally don't cost that much, but the shipping does. Unless I'm doing a container over worth of body parts, the per cost on them is quite high. That 08 bumper I've got cost me 800 to get over here, I'm basically selling for a loss. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.facebook.com/avoturboworld

Just a reminder, I still have this sitting in the storeroom: New Liberal Albero Front Bumper cover for the 08-09 Legacy wagon/sedan. Comes with mesh inserts and brackets to mount standard foglamps. $400.00 or best offer. http://www.avoturboworld.com/media/0806_liberal_lgt04.jpg http://liberal-aero.com/products/parts/legacy_bpbl_def/img/01k.jpg Does not include the lip spoiler in the picture above. Designed to look similar to the Spec B bumper in Japan. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.facebook.com/avoturboworld

They can be gotten, but don't get them pre-painted. There's no way they'll make the trip over the ocean unscratched.

It's been a while, so maybe... The problem was that the overfenders would have pushed it out of the size class it was in for parking/tax reasons, so it's possible that it was available, but nobody bought it. I can't recall ever seeing one on the street.

Doh! I even have photos of it I took: http://www.sevenphotos.com/soobserver/data/07_legacy_preview.data/size_2/_L2Y6562.jpg But I believe that was introduced back into Japan with the facelift in 07 (08 elsewhere). I don't recall ever covering an Outback for the 04-06 model years. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.facebook.com/avoturboworld

Japan back-imported USDM Outback body pieces, because Japan didn't get the Outback. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.facebook.com/avoturboworld http://www.stillhavethat08-09liberalbumper

STI hangers are definitely different. WRX Sedan mufflers have hangers that are close to the same as the 2010 Legacies. They are not perfect, but they can be, ah, massaged to fit. STI mufflers, I imagine you need to re-do the hangers at a hanger shop, and I'm not sure that the flanges are the correct orientation. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.facebook.com/avoturboworld

I'll check on this, because there's a chance the issue may be with whiteline stabilizer bars. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com

Just so nobody makes any mistakes on this, the center section of the 2010 Legacy/Outback exhaust is different than the 08 WRX/STI or 09 Forester. This is a photo of our center pipe section for the 08 WRX Sedan vs. the 2010 Legacy. The one at the top is the 2008 Impreza, the one at the bottom is the 2010. http://www.avoturboworld.com/media/centerpipe_comparo.jpg Besides a minor difference in bends, there's a major difference in length. Both of those pieces are designed to fit to a stock downpipe, so maintain the proper length compared to stock. What the 2010 Legacy and 2008 Impreza sedan share is the same Y-pipe design and flanges where they meet the mufflers. The mufflers are *nearly* identical, however there is differences in the hangers which will cause some difficulty in lining the mufflers up in the cutouts correctly. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com

With a tune, the intake will return some benefits. Tuning an n/a will never have as large of a return as on a turbo, but their will be some gains. And I noticed I felt them more, probably because 2-5whp gained is more noticeable on a 104whp car than a 200+ whp car. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com

On a stock engine, the gains would be minimal. I doubt you'd see any at all that were not 100% from the tune itself. You would only see gains if the stock engine was running out of fuel for any reason, and it's not, not in stock format. The reason you need the turbo fuel pump and the 440cc injectors with our kit is fairly simple - you are basically doubling the whp! Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com

Well, I'm late in this, but some points on blank vs. slitted vs. cross-drilled rotors. For the street, blanks are more than adequete. They simply don't look too cool, which is why there is a large amount of slitted/cross-drilled rotors on street cars. For the track, slitted rotors make the most sense in terms of circuit performance, especially over longer periods. Which leads us to cross-drilled. There are two types of cross-drilled - ones that are actually, physically drilled, and ones that are cast with the drill holes in place (Porsche rotors). The cast-hole rotors are fairly sturdy. And expensive. At the track, rotors are like bags of chips while watching the superbowl - expect to replace them regularly. So if you are serious about your track braking, balance your needs vs. replacement costs. Cross-drilled rotors cracking: All rotors have the possibility of cracking, cross-drilled (non-cast) are simply the most prone to it. Yet you can easily make a cross-drilled rotor last longer without cracking than even a blank rotor. The main failure point for rotors is not on the track itself, but after you leave the track. Most people go 100% (or more, at least for them) on the track up to the last second, pull off, stop the car, set the e-brake and let those expensive rotors cool off rapidly. <crack!> What really does it is the brake pads - the rotors are exposed to air everywhere but the pads, and when you let it cool off from Extra Crispy to Slightly cool with most of the rotor cooling off *much* faster than the section of the rotor under the pads, the difference in temperature will make *any* rotor brittle quickly. If you want your rotors to last after track racing, either take one or two really slow, easy cool-off laps before you pull off (if you have that choice), or try to slowly roll around somewhere to let the brakes cool off more gradually and evenly. Porsche owners with those expensive ceramic rotors have had some fairly expensive replacement bills (think half the cost of WRX or more...) after relatively low mileage on those rotors because they do just that - pull in and stop. Even Porsche thought they would know better... Cheers, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com http://www.e-bacs.com