nemo Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 ^ Oil on the plugs, I believe. This is a great thread. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malt Beverage Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 ^^ yup, the plugs go right through the valve cover and each channel one has a gasket. As they get old the channel for the plug likes to fill up with oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Exactly Paul, This is why my spark plug removal guide should be sticky'd and that mechanic should be taken out back and thrashed. If my mechanic said "I can't get to a part on a car so ima leave it alone" he shouldn't be called a mechanic. Those endlinks look nice i wonder how those links and a 22MM front bar would fair? AVo should have a 2.5i F/R KIT that has everything you need with 22mm front and 20 mm rear bars. I vote Yes but there is a possibility that i didn't visit the AVO site and search for the above referenced idea for a kit and could be completely behind the times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 The stock front endlinks were coming out, and heavy duty AVO endlinks were going in. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/endlinks/endlink_install_03.jpg Regards, Paul Hansen www.avoturboworld.com Do you have any concerns with those new endlinks standing up over time and the elements such as rain, snow, slush and salt? They don't look to be "sealed" in anyway against Mother Nature. And on the swaybar bushings, I have poly bushings and I have to constantly (at each oil change) grease them to keep them from squeaking after the grease gets pushed out. And to make it easier I actually drilled the U-shaped mount and bushing and installed grease fittings. It was not a problem with the rubber ones... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Paul, Seeing as how the N/A community once again begged for something then didn't support it (Access Port), is this why you are using RR? Like many well known vendors COBB is discontinuing fun things in the N/A flavor (the N/A AP in August). What sucks is they never gave the N/A legacy crowd a change to not support it Those darn Impreza owners get to have all the fun with PnP engine management Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Paul, Seeing as how the N/A community once again begged for something then didn't support it (Access Port), is this why you are using RR? Like many well known vendors COBB is discontinuing fun things in the N/A flavor (the N/A AP in August). What sucks is they never gave the N/A legacy crowd a change to not support it Those darn Impreza owners get to have all the fun with PnP engine management I'm just using it because it's all that's currently available at the time. Cobb recently made a big operation move, and hasn't had time to look at all these sorts of projects. Now that they are settling in, I wouldn't be surprised if they do look at releasing an accessport for the 2.5i models, and once they do, I'll look at using it. I figure once we get the ball rolling, like we did for the 2005 Legacy GT's when they first came out, then other makers will start looking into the cars as well. Everybody, and I mean everybody, said there was no market for making parts for the Legacy back in 2004. After AVO took that plunge and got that ball rolling, look where we are now! Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Do you have any concerns with those new endlinks standing up over time and the elements such as rain, snow, slush and salt? They don't look to be "sealed" in anyway against Mother Nature. And on the swaybar bushings, I have poly bushings and I have to constantly (at each oil change) grease them to keep them from squeaking after the grease gets pushed out. And to make it easier I actually drilled the U-shaped mount and bushing and installed grease fittings. It was not a problem with the rubber ones... I've had good luck with the poly swaybar bushings myself, I ran them on my Legacy in Japan for about 2 years before the move over to here. If they are greased well, they should be fairly quiet. It will depend on conditions, and some places are harsher on the grease than others. The solid endlinks were the design we settled on as a "heavy duty" upgrade to the pillow-ball type. They don't need sealing as they are quite simple in design and purpose. They won't break, and there's no ball at the ends to come apart and start rattling. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 I hope so no wonder everything cool is a "one-off" for the 2.5i-ers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Cobb recently made a big operation move, and hasn't had time to look at all these sorts of projects. Now that they are settling in, I wouldn't be surprised if they do look at releasing an accessport for the 2.5i models, and once they do, I'll look at using it. This does not look good for you NA guys... http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?id=5328 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 If they are greased well, they should be fairly quiet. It will depend on conditions, and some places are harsher on the grease than others. On my poly ones I started with the grease supplied but it was only enough for the original install. After the first instance of squeak I relubed them with moly grease. Once that pushed out and after a couple more relubes, that's when I decided on the grease fittings. So I guess I fall into the harsh category. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 This does not look good for you NA guys... http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?id=5328 Guess thats pretty bad news for the 2.5i AVO turbo kit . Thought rallitek was originally going to market the AVO kit with the accessport for the proper tuning maps? I remember the thread for the turbo kit mentioning that the only thing holding them back was that they were waiting for the accessport to be finished. Wonder what they'll do now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 The 2.5i market isn't viable for for a AP and it def doesn't justify allocating resources to make it float. Thats why the N/A version is down to $499.99 consequently OS tuning seems to be gain much traction within the N/A community Phat Botti is doing a 10 car tuning session for $80.00 a car WOW! $80.00 PRO TUNE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 AVO is the hail mary for 2.5i specific development. The turbo kit can still work however like the cams, AP, valves, springs and head packages they will probably fade to black. All these aspects support the "just buy a LGT " argument Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 I'm not too worried about the turbo kit in the long term, because it's going to fit more than just the Legacy/Outback 2.5i. It will also fit the 08+ Impreza 2.5i, and between those two models, that's a significant portion of Subaru's on the road. If in the end we have to go with OS tuning for the Outback/Legacy market, then we will put something together on that end. Rallitek is working on the 08 Impreza 2.5i models, and they have an accessport for that. And Cobb will create an accessport if demand is show for it. On the standard 2.5i, there may simply have not been enough customer demand. However, if the turbo kits create the demand, then the AP will come. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 21mm Front anti-roll bar Polyurethane Bushing install guide. This, generally, is a quick job to do. It should take 30 minutes to an hour at most, depending on the state of the various nuts/bolts you need to remove. Older cars should probably get some loosening agents on them before hand. This is another job that is perhaps easiest with the car on some ramps, instead of jacking it up into the air and putting it on jackstands. That is so there is no tension on the anti-roll bar, which makes bolting and unbolting of parts much easier. I recommend some safety glasses, overalls, and a hat while you are doing this. The underside of the car gathers a lot of dirt, and you'll get liberally sprayed with it while you are working. Tools recommended: 14mm and 12mm Socket, 14mm wrench, dirty rag, and brake cleaner (more on that later). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_001.jpg And don't forget the bar to hit the car with… I mean, a breaker bar. The 14mm bolts are especially tight, and will most likely need the breaker bar to get loose. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_002.jpg Two 21mm bushings and the grease. Don't forget the grease! http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_003.jpg Removal is simple - there is 3 14mm bolts holding the brace on, and then one 12mm bolt and one 12mm nut holding the bracket for the bushing on. The driver's side is fairly straight forward, while the passenger side, the exhaust is in the way slightly, this is what you need the 14mm wrench for. Unless you want to remove the exhaust just so you can use a socket! http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_004.jpg Pop the bracket off, and then just slide the bushing towards the wheel, where you can then remove it easily. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_005.jpg The OEM bushing says 20mm, but it's more like a 20.5mm bar. We've found the 21mm bushing to be just right. One tip here is to get a dirty rag, spray some brake cleaner on it, and clean the inside of the bracket off. I found a lot of rubber had stuck itself to the metal, but it came off with a bit of work. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_006.jpg Get some grease on the inside of the bushing, this is to reduce or eliminate any "creaking" noises. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_007.jpg I also cleaned the bar itself with a rag and brake cleaner, so I had a somewhat clean surface to work the new 21mm AVO bushing onto. It's a lot tougher than the OEM rubber bushing, so it takes a bit of effort to get it on the bar. Then just slide it down to the correct position. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_008.jpg Once it's roughly in place, put the bracket back on to it and get it fully aligned. The OEM bracket should have an arrow on it showing which direction it orients (arrow pointing towards front of car). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_009.jpg Do the other side, and voila! Ready to go! Make sure to check all the nuts one last time. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_010.jpg After you finish up, you may want to drive it around a bit just to get everything settled in, then re-torque all the nuts and bolts one more time to make sure they are all tight. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruTim Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Very nice job so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 so the stock bar is a solid 20.5 mm?? Hell do we even need a 22mm up front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 On reasonably good street tires and "spirited" usage, the stock bar up front and a 20mm rear bar will feel just about right, I wager. A 22mm front and solid 20-21mm rear will come into play when you start using some sticky tires and plan to hit the autocross once in a while. It's like the stock brakes. They feel perfectly "adequate" right now given the general lack of escape velocity the stock motor is capable of. Once the turbo kit is on there, brakes are going to feel pretty limp. So I'm going to have Japan send over one of their AVO front caliper/rotor upgrade kits. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dschultz Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Will you be doing anything with the rear endlinks? What are the options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexjapan Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 Well, the entire rear is going to be gone over soon - I'm just waiting for the parts. It's been really busy this summer, and I'm short some stock that is coming in early next week (I'll sell to customers before putting on my own car). The current run-down for the rear is the rear stabilizer bar brackets, rear 20mm stabilizer bar, rear 90mm adjustable endlinks. After those, new dampers/struts/springs will go in, which should lower it to about stock JDM Legacy height. I'll probably switch from the 90mm adjustable endlinks to the 70mm solid endlinks at that time. Then the front lower control arms have to come off, and the +.050 offset camber adjustment bushings and the front lca bushings will go on. Needless to say, alignment will be the final task on the suspension... Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Love the progress on this. Highly interested to see this AVO brake kit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 For those of you doing the bushings while on ramps - make sure the floor is level. Our carport isn't, so everything got cockeyed. Also note the clear grease that came with the bushings doesn't seem to last long - try Green Stuff or or Lucas red stuff; or better, genuine marine grease, if you can find that. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 ... After those, new dampers/struts/springs will go in, which should lower it to about stock JDM Legacy height. ... Well, nuts. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 ^ Oil on the plugs, I believe. ... D'oh, missed that entirely. I was looking at the other pics, & thought it was referring to the battery - some threads here blame head gasket problems on battery gases, a theory I don't subscribe to. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katalyst Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 Love the progress on this. Highly interested to see this AVO brake kit.. this is definitely a quality thread for the 2.5i crowd. all the walkthroughs are very clear cut with excellent photos to go along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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