AVO Project Outback part 1

[apexjapan]

DIY Rear endlinks install

 

Next on the list is the rear endlinks replacement. These stock rear endlinks were coming out, and heavy duty AVO endlinks were going in. As with the front suspension, it's an easy job. You will probably spend the majority of your install time finding your 14mm socket. This is another job that can be difficult to do unless you do it on ramps. If you jack up the entire rear of the car and put both sides on jackstands, it can be difficult as the suspension may swing down further than the swaybar can travel. As long as the car is sitting on it's suspension as normal, there is no tension on the swaybar, making this much easier.

 

The standard endlink in all it's drab glory.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_001.jpg

 

You will need a 14mm wrench and socket/ratchet to get the stock endlink off.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_003.jpg

 

Unlike the front endlink, the rear endlink doesn't need an allen tool, but instead the 14mm wrench and rocket.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_004.jpg

 

As you can see, the AVO endlink at 70mm is a bit shorter than the standard Outback endlink. As we are going to lower the car, the 70mm will be just right. On standard Legacy models and lowered cars, 70mm is the proper length.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_005.jpg

 

Make sure to grease up the end of the bushings, and the inside of the bushing.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_006.jpg

 

The two supplied bolts need to go from the outside in. The supplied washers need to be installed at either end of the bushings.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_007.jpg

 

Get the nuts on, tighten down the bolts till it's nice and firm, and away you go!

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/rear_endlink/r_endlink_008.jpg

 

Going on is a lot faster and smoother than the removal of the OEM endlinks, which takes a lot of wrenching in a tight space. Safety glasses are recommended because of the spray of dirt and other gunk that gets built up under there over time.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[apexjapan]

Just an update in the power air intake system for the NA - while the Legacy GT one would fit, it does have a 70mm inner diameter, which would cause it to need a bit tuning to work properly. We are creating a new MAF adapter unit which is 66mm inner diameter. This will work much better with the NA motors.

 

Also, we'll create a longer silicone piping that will replace all the piping from the intake to the big box that goes to the throttle body. Overall will provide a nice, smooth air flow path for some good gains.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[Jmhm17]

I think you guys should do something with the torque box kinda like this http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jdm-kakimoto-racing-air-collection-chamber-n-engine-130230.html?t=130230

 

still curious if it is beneficial or not.. maybe something to look into

 

also since rallitek updated there page those end links are only under the GT.. i hate the new page!

[apexjapan]

We are looking at the torque box as well. I'll pull mine apart in a day or so and take a look, and the engineers will have a think on how to make a better box that isn't too expensive.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[N.sane]

Sweet, a proper intake for the 2.5i would be nice.

[thestratomaster]

I'd be in for a proper N/A intake as long as it was priced fairly

[Flat4]

I'd be in for a proper N/A intake as long as it was priced fairly

Word. id be in too

[thestratomaster]

^^ ok

[apexjapan]

DIY Rear Swaybar install

 

I've gotten a rear JDM swayer from our office in Japan - this is the original equipment for a Legacy in Japan. Evidently they trust Japanese drivers more than American, because it's a much larger bar. Especially in comparison to the stock Outback 2.5i bar I'm replacing. This is another job that can be difficult to do unless you do it on ramps. If you jack up the entire rear of the car and put both sides on jackstands, it will be difficult as the suspension may swing down further than the swaybar can travel. As long as the car is sitting on it's suspension as normal, there is no tension on the swaybar, making this much easier.

 

This job is slightly more complicated than the endlinks - you'll need a 14mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm wrench. You can pretty much disassemble 90% of your Subaru with those three and a pair of screwdrivers….

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_001.jpg

 

Unbolt the swaybar bushing brackets with a 12mm socket.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_002.jpg

 

Unbolt the endlink from the swaybar. It uses a the 14mm wrench and socket.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_003.jpg

 

If you did do this job on jackstands, you can possibly remove the rear wheel to get the swaybar out. But it's a much easier job on jackstands, so I instead unbolted one of the rear mufflers from the mid pipe assembly.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_004.jpg

 

That gives you just enough room to swing the swaybar out on that side, then you can rotate it out from the other side.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_005.jpg

 

A comparison of the stock USDM bar vs. an OEM JDM bar.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_006.jpg

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_008.jpg

 

It's actually a lot easier to get the rear bar back into place than it was to take out. Probably from the experience gained removing the old bar!

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_009.jpg

 

Grease the polyurethane bushings well, then slide them onto the bar, and fix them up with the brackets. Bolt them in.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_010.jpg

 

Bolt the endlinks back up. Congratulations, bask in the glow of your new suspension!

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/swaybar/swaybar_011.jpg

 

Again, the hardest part of this job is finding where you put your 14 and 12mm sockets, and figuring out how to work the bar out of it's location. You can easily do this job in 30-60 minutes, depending on your preparation.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[nemo]

^ Why not install Reinforcement brackets while you're under there?

[apexjapan]

Because every one that's available in North America is in customers hands. o.O

 

I'll be putting those on in a week or less, a new shipment of them is winging their way here.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[GEE-OTTO]

Paul,

 

I am seriously thinking about a full suspension make over per your write ups im sure that car handles 5x better than stock

[N.sane]

^I wouldnt say that yet.

 

Id say that once new springs, struts, and LCA bushings are installed + alignment + summer tires

[apexjapan]

I'm at roughly 2-3x better than stock.

 

With the rear bar in, the endlinks, swaybar bushings and brace, it's a lot - a darn lot - more controlled in corners. There is a lot less movement in the suspension overall, and I can downshift, hammer a line into the corner and heel-toe it right where I expect it to. It rotates well and keeps a steady keel when 4-wheel drifting it. A fairly good street setup, and pretty entertaining with the junk tires on it.

 

That said, tires are still junk, dampers still need some mojo, and springs are matched to currently mojo-less dampers. But I could live with the dampers/springs if I had to, they are certainly comfy in a straight line. And with some sticky rubber, I know I can embarrass some sports cars in the switchbacks (as long as I kept my momentum up....).

 

The hardest part of the suspension lies in front of me, however. I've got to replace the front lower control arm bushings. Especially the lca rear bushings, I can feel the suspension working those in the corner. Once those are replaced, it's a reallll good street setup that maintains the road clearance that some people will want to keep, and you won't be embarrassed at even the gymkhana.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[katalyst]

i just gotta say: paul, your passion for motorsport and the desire to pursue higher ground with this outback build is an inspiration and we're lucky to have members like you on this board.

 

keep it coming.

[thestratomaster]

^^ Can I ask about how much the suspension upgrades have cost so far?

[B-BGTLimited]

I'm sure what he's paying and what you would be paying is not the same... But you can easily price it yourself.

 

Swaybar bushings are $25 a set

Rear brace set is $160

Front endlinks $139

Rear endlinks $139

 

In other pics he also as the rear stabalizer reinforcement mount bracket, those are $89 a set, and he also had a set of caster adjustment bushings in another pic... those are $125

 

So installed so far I think it's near $488 if you were buying direct from AVO yourself.

 

Paul, please correct me if I'm wrong on any of that. I pulled prices from http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop

[apexjapan]

That's about right. I'll be putting together some packages for some of the pieces though, which will lower overall pricing, and LGT members get a 5% discount at all times.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[thestratomaster]

Cool, that's not too bad at all

[apexjapan]

I'll file this one under "stuff you really need to look at on high mileage cars".

 

Japan had a low mileage fuel pump that came out of a car that installed the AVO high flow pump, so sent it along in a Outback care package. So I took some time to take the old fuel pump out, just on the off chance it might be a current or future issue.

 

Hoo-boy...

 

Getting to the fuel pump is fairly easy. Go to your back seat, remove the cheese puffs and potato chips and spare change and lint from the cracks of the seat, then grab the front edge of the rear seat and pull it up. Give it some back and it'll pop right up. Then run and get your vacuum cleaner and clean out 4 inches of dirt, debris, dog hairs, and lost Penthouse magazines. Voila, you can see the panel protecting the fuel pump area.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_001.jpg

 

4 screws, and it's off. Then you find the next layer of grime and despair, under which you can faintly see the top of your fuel pump assembly. There's two fuel lines, one wiring harness, and a bunch of evil little 8mm nuts to remove. The fuel lines will have, doh, lot of fuel in them. What I did to minimize the spray of gas when removing them was to unclip the wiring harness, then start the car and let it run till it stalled, then turn it over a few more times. That won't get all the gas out of the system, as the engine somehow still manages to suck some gas along, but it's better.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_002.jpg

 

It doesn't come straight out, there's a fuel level float on the side, and a big funky rubber gasket around it. But you'll get it out eventually. Now stare at the awesome silt layer at the bottom of my fuel tank. Now, if I was running e85, all that would be floating on the top….

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_003.jpg

 

Remember that the fuel pump bucket assembly is still full of gas. You want to have a clean bucket or similar container on hand, then turn the bucket assembly over and let it drain. Sniff the fumes for a bit, develop a headache, then move on to the next part..

 

This part is a bit complicated if you only have two hands to do it with. There is several clips around the edge of the top that you need to undo at once to get it apart. It can be frustrating at first, but there is a trick to it. One clip has a little slot next to it, where you can stick a flat head screwdriver to hold the clip up, and the screwdriver will hold there as is. Then you can unclip the other tabs without too much hassle.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_004.jpg

 

Once the tabs are unclipped, you need to remove the top of the assembly from the middle portion that holds the pump itself. This isn't that complicated - one of those rod and spring bits has a small c-clip on it. All you need to do is compress the top down to the middle, and you can see the c-clip. Remove, watch it spring off into the garage and spend 30 minutes looking for it. Then simply unclip the two parts at the end of the black hose sections and pull the two pieces apart.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_008.jpg

 

Now for the moment of truth! Let's take a look at the shape of my white.. um, wait, black filter. Black? Black?? How much crap is in this SOB?

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_005.jpg

 

Yeah, ok, let's look at the bottom of the bucket… Hum, yeah, that looks just greaattttt…. I used the fuel in the bucket to pour back in here and swish it around a bit, cleaned it out.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_006.jpg

 

In comparison, a low mileage fuel pump. A bit, ah, less broken in.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_007.jpg

 

Now we get to the hard part of the fuel pump install. It's not actually hard, but these next three items are the no.1 reason a fuel pump doesn't work after an install. Yes, we are talking about the O-rings. There is three O-rings in this assembly that need to be placed back in place properly after switching a new pump in.

 

No. 1 - it goes on the end of this clip on piece. You won't find it on there, it'll most likely still be in the old fuel pump filter assembly. Take it out with some needle nose pliers, and place it on the clip on piece as pictured.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_009.jpg

 

And then clip it into the assembly.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_010.jpg

 

No.2 is found at the bottom of the black clip-in assembly. It is frequently green - but not always. The O-rings are different in sizing, so it's probably best to do these one at a time so you don't mix them up. It too will likely still be in the assembly when you take this piece out.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_011.jpg

 

And clipped in.

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_012.jpg

 

 

Once you clip it into the assembly, you've only got one left to go… No.3 is hard to spot, because it's still probably in the bottom of the fuel pump assembly bucket. This is the location you'll probably find it.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_014.jpg

 

Now one of the reasons it's hard to spot and remember to put on is not just because it's at the bottom of the bucket - but it goes on here:

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/fuelpump/fp_013.jpg

 

Congratulations! Get those three O-rings right, and you've gotten past the hard part!

 

Re-assembly is a reverse of the dis-assembly. Just look at the photos from bottom to top… Make sure the O-ring in the bottom bucket isn't kinked up, and slot the top two pieces back into the bucket. Then back into the car, bolt everything up as they came out. It's not immediately obvious, but the big rubber gasket I mentioned earlier does have to go back in in a specific orientation, there's three tabs on it that line up into the metal bracket you need to bolt it all down with.

 

I'd love to post about the improved performance, etc., or even if it started. But I took this opportunity to pull the injectors out and get them cleaned and flow tested. That's a sad tale of dirt, grease, bleeding fingers and hard-to-reach bolts for another day…

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[Jmhm17]

can this please be stickyed!!!!!

 

also what are you going to do with the front that the front brace will not bolt up?? any ideas on how your going to stiffen it up, you must have alot of understeer in the turns with the back end so stiff right now.

[apexjapan]

There isn't understeer with this setup, the rotation is pretty good. A larger front bar would have increased the understeer a bit, but the JDM bar is just right for a good balanced setup. Thing is, I have been driving turbocharged Subaru's for a looooong time + that motor journalist gig in Japan. The way I drive a Subaru, a touch of understeer is a good thing, because I chuck the bastard into the corner like there is gravel on the ground and photographers at the apex of the corner to run over.

 

It's a Subaru, it's what you do.

 

BTW, if anybody is curious, I don't actually sell the AVO JDM bars meself. I'm pretty sure Ross at AVOjdm.com sells them though.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[B-BGTLimited]

That fuel setup is TOTALLY different than what I'm expecting when I take apart my fiance's Impreza Outback... I didn't even realize that the Leggy Outback had a different setup than the Legacy Sedan. Does the 07 Legacy Outback have a secondary fuel filter somewhere up in the engine bay?

 

I love how Subaru puts a filter IN the fuel tank and then tells you it never need to be replaced... If not then why is the filter there to begin with if it NEVER filters enough material to necessitate replacement. I'll be taking pictures of my fiance's Outback install, and I'll be very curious to see what it looks like... 130k on the clock of her 05.

 

I also love the way you describe working on the items too... such as the C-clip taking a ride... lol

[apexjapan]

Legacy and Outbacks from 05-09 do have the same setup, actually. The Impreza Outback would be the same as those from 08+, but the easier setup from 02-07.

 

Regards,

 

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com

[B-BGTLimited]

I thought the 05-07 versions looked like this

 

http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5541&d=1169825934

 

At least thats what the part detail breakdown looks like for the 07 Legacy Sedan AND the 05 Impreza Outback when I was trying to find part numbers.