GEE-OTTO

My 08LGT pulled much harder than my 23 WRX and was more luxurious (power seats leather, and a rear seat pass through) I thought hard about a Touring trim OB but I love the look of the Wilderness. The WRX is the most exciting one but overall Fun to drive Subarus are sparse in the year 2024

Still available

Yes boxed and ready to ship!

I’ll say this the stock sound system in my 08 and 09 LGTs were way better than my 23 WRX. Even with the HK upgrade the under-seat sub hit harder. Daily driving was never an issue if anything the only real downside was 93OCT but in my 2.5i gas was an afterthought. In stock form they aren’t bad cars but over 6 years I paid Mach V $12k for routine maintenance and repairs to wear items. I could have maintained a used Panamera for the same cost and both cars would still be worth about the same

I saw your Spec.B listed for $17k by the person that bought it from you.

I sold my 08 LGT 5MT the third 4th gen Legacy and second GT! I bought a 2023 WRX to replace it. The modern touches are insane and it’s not really that advanced lol. I still wanted a manual but to rebuild my EJ255 the right way (the way I wanted which was 100% OEM) was going to cost me about $12k, wasn’t worth it. I miss all my Legacy’s however.

Sold

Last item of the parts stash NIB AVO JDM Double DIN HVAC kit $200 obo Prices don’t include shipping and if you are in and or around the NoVA/DC/MD area I can meet. Cash/ApplePay/Venmo/PayPal

Year, Make and Model: 2008 Subaru Legacy GT Color: Quartz Silver Metallic Miles: 232,500 Transmission: 5MT Title: Clear In Hand Lien: None Location: (Chantilly, VA) VIN: 4S3BL676286216924 Seller's email address: (gee_otto@hotmail.com) Asking Price: SOLD For sale is my 08 LGT 5MT I posted this earlier this year then changed my mind. I’m the second owner bought it in 2016 with 160k miles currently has 232k will rise slightly. Mods: GS EBCS GS DP COBB AP with Tuning Alliance custom 93OCT Tune KartBoy STS WRX Wheels and Continental DWS tire (235/45/17) 7k miles on the set with TPMS paired New Headlights JDM Grille JDM Double DIN conversion with JVC head unit Slightly Lowered on H&R springs Brakes and wheel bearings updated two years ago Axleback replaced with custom mufflers and piping not loud or obnoxious Rear shock with H&R springs and spacer Taxtrix Cable/Dongle Miscellaneous small parts Condition: The good Body is in decent shape no rust but dings and scuffs from the many adventures into VT and WV to ski and bike. Small dings on roof from parking under an oak tree ( this year the acorns were outrageous ) also scuffs on spoiler from bike rack and the clear coat on the handles is fading (common issue). Interior is good for age the drive seat has come unstitched (another common issue) but doesn’t affect heating function. The cubby is cracked from the dealer replacing the dash but it doesn’t bother me enough to replace it. All sensors and light and functions work sunroof and windows all work fine with no leaks. Transmission shifts smooth always serviced with Motul Gear 300 by Mach V here in VA. Mach V also replaced the driver OCV, PS pump and resealed the oil pan in 2021 The Bad Car leaks oils from turbo drain hose area not the turbo but the hose and or hard line into the pan or wherever it goes. Could be possibly pinging around 2500 to 2800 RPM I made a thread about it to get feedback earlier this year. Both issues could be fixed if I were to rebuild it( no complaints from me about a EJ255 with 232k miles) but I likely won’t as life and work and all that jazz takes precedent. I actually am going to buy a new car now I have a couple weeks off from work and can devote time to dealing with the dealerships. Car is priced with the parts and condition in mind based on what I’ve seen for sale over the past year. Would like to sell everything to a single buyer as it’s easiest. Car is VA inspected until Jan 2024 and drives fine. Any questions just ask Im happy to answer them, been around a long time: and motivated to sell

Oh yeah when my PS pump went and OCV that area got splashed with various fluids

Im with @m sprank I have this exact car with double the miles. Great condition overall! The only thing that might cause question is the heatshields look as though they are soaked in oil from a leak, is that water, oil, wet rust etc. ?

So update had a 600 mile stint of driving for various summer adventures between VA and WV. I added the Knock sum to the AP to monitor it and at various times it would be at 7, 23, 34 then reset. One thing I recalled after reading the comments I filled up at a no-name gas stating when this started, I typically run 93 V-Power. I ran that tank out after this post and filled up with V-Power at my normal Shell, no pronounced rattle like before. If it is the start of the end, I can't complain, 227K miles and counting of majority smiles and worry free operation. Also shopping a VB WRX in Ice Silver Metallic to replace this 08 LGT. Ill keep yall posted!

I think yes! It would go away above or beyond that load range. And that makes sense as my first thought was “why are my valves rattling” Ill get a video to show the sound. No mods and no tuning changes. Timing has 62k mikes on the parts but everything else is original. No changes in oil or fuel consumption and AP monitors are normal. Appreciate the comments!!

Just recently my 08LGT developed a rattle at part throttle out of boost but but before getting into boost, similar to valve train chatter when you are lugging the engine. Checked for low oil it’s fine near the top of the operating range per the stick(cold and hot). So I go out driving and it seems to only occur around 2300-2800 RPM part throttle, when I increase throttle it goes away doesn’t happen at lower or higher than that RPM range. I once read that timing tensioners/idlers can cause this as they fail. Have any of you had a similar issue? Could it be a jumped tooth?

Bingo it was the line running from the IM to the Fuel line junction above to air pump. As soon as took the cover I saw it. I used a small worm clamp to secure it to nipple. I also checked all the others luckily I zipped tied them all during the install of the EBCS, new IC and new turbo inlet. Reset ECU, drove on the high way for 15 miles at 60 MPH, did a WOT pull DAM is at 1.00. Followed that up with mixed driving all modes DAM still 1.00 and FKLC and FK are 0.00. I can’t believe how long (2 months) I drove like that, will check those lines more often and probably replace them when I replace the IM to TGV gaskets

Hello it's been a long time since I've had a problem out of my 08 LGT but I noticed recently that it is hesitating when I go to accelerate. It is very subtle if I quickly roll into the throttle, non existent/very light if I gently roll into the throttle. First thing I checked was air filter, it was dirty so I replaced that and inspected the MAF it was tight and plugged in. Connected my AP and drove around noticed DAM was .483, went home reset ECU went back out for a drive, DAM was 1.00, did a WOT pull (attached) DAM dropped to .500. I pulled into a parking lot to check the AP and drove home. While driving home DAM went back to 1.00 but the hesitation is still there same as before. I added the second pull datalog as well. DAM was 1.00 rolled into throttle then at WOT or close DAM dropped to .483 again. While driving back home it returned to 1.00 What are good first steps to check based on the log? No other performance issues, or lights no smells or leaks. MPG is the same always. Could it be a failing actuator, EBCS, etc or maybe a failing Fuel pump? Should I log a certain parameter to give better insight? Thanks 08LGT_MAR_23.xlsx 08LGT_MAR_23_ Pull2.xlsx

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SOLD!!!!!! Thanks

Always loved the RR Spec.B so rare ive only seen 3.

Do you still have the front knuckles and control arms? I could take the knuckle/hub/control arm as a whole to make it worth your while. Thanks

What I did when I replaced my suspension was buy all four KYB OEM struts with the top hats along with new loaded LCAs (Front). I rented a spring compressor from AutoZone, the manual kind that clamps the spring and you turn it with a 17mm socket, I built all four corners on the bench. The rears were three bolts and it falls out, use a bottle or scissor jack to extend the rear hub assembly slightly down to slip the new assembled structure in and align the big bottom bolt. On the fronts I needed an alignment anyway so I disassembled the strut, knuckle and LCA. I knocked the LCA out and reinstalled the new loaded LCA and strut. I marked the alignment bolts to keep everything close. After I got all four done I went and got an alignment. The hardest part is holding the strut the get the top mount nuts started but it’s very involved. So it’s not a project for most but if you have space and time its doable.

Two years and how many miles ago? Warping isn’t a problem it’s probably out-gassing of the pad material under heavy breaking and two years isn’t much of an indicator as the miles. Stop and go traffic is rough on pads and rotors you could try cleaning but if your rotors are in spec just replace the pads. I would swing by a service station have them inspect your brake it might be time to replace

Nice clean BL! GLWS

I had the same problem Max Capacity had where my AC would work fine then stop after a few miles. This started last year (2021) and at that time no dealer had the needed relay in stock. For reference the 2005+ Legacy AC relay part number is 82501AG05B, I ended up using a Duralast/Autozone relay part number 19997 which worked fine until now. I ordered 2 OEM relays so I could replace the failed Duralast one and have a spare as this seems like something that once started will continue to happen. The original one lasted 205k miles so im not complaining and once replaced my AC is too cold If you go into an autozone and ask them to search by make and model you wont find the relay so ask them for 19997 power relay.

This part^ but if Subaru wanted to be the wild child they should look to compete against the Maverick from Ford that is a great little pickup for price. I like the newer gen Ridgeline, Tacoma and now the Maverick. The Baja could be on that list but not in the current config.