Racer X (itsme) FMIC install

[m sprank]

No shop can give an estimate. It is a custom job. Unless they have done the exact kit before...

 

I can do it in about 2 hours. Less sometimes. More sometimes. Depends on intake used and a few other things.

 

I can't imagine getting ripped by a shop to install a FMIC. It is not that hard. But if you do go to a shop, be prepared to pay a pretty penny. At $75-90 an hour labor if they take 8 hours...

[Balrock]

My retarted a$$ pretty much installed it by myslef, even after I sliced my thumb open. My buddy came later and helped me finish trimming the bumber and soft soap for leak test. Save yourslef the $$$ and find a friend and do it yourself.

[spec.B Dream]

It can (and probably should) be done by yourself. If you can add a friend, that helps. When modifying a car like this, you should understand what you are doing, and there is no better way than to do the install yourself. Book a weekend and git-r-done!

 

Some tips from my install:

1. I bought 24" of 1/2" heater hose from Advance Auto Parts. They sell this in bulk. Don't let them give you crap about needing to know the make and model of the car to sell you heater hose. It took me three trips before I finally found someone who would sell me a length of hose without having the car's info.

 

2. If using the stock VF46 (I assume VF40 is the same), the Felpro Water Outlet Gasket for a 1982 V8 Camaro (Carb) fits perfectly. P/N 35062 $1.29.

 

3. Do NOT use a gasket at the turbo with sticky stuff on it. My first gasket had sticky stuff I guess to aid in aligning it during install. Well, the sticky stuff melts from the turbo, makes a mess, and doesn't seal properly.

 

4. To pull the stock hose off the throttle body, I had to use a dremel and cut the hose clamp. There was no way I could get tools under the intake manifold to unscrew it.

 

5. If something doesn't look like it is fitting right, move on to another piece and come back to that one later. There are multiple angles that the pipes/IC will fit at. Play around until you find the best that works for you.

 

6. If you're in a northern climate, cut the pipe that goes over the battery. How bad would that suck to have a dead battery in the middle of winter and have to remove your bumper (and all the frozen pop-its) to swap it out?

 

7. On my car (2008), I had to cut away much more metal than I anticipated at the front of the car. Nothing structural, just a PITA with my angle grinder/dremel.

 

8. The stock airbox/silencer/snorkel all fit no problem. It is tight, you have to cut off the hose holders on the side of the airbox, and there is some twisting/turning involved, but they do fit.

 

9. If you have a leak and you've checked all the connections except the ones by the IC because you don't want to remove your bumper again, pull off your bumper. I went for a week being frustrated at my car and carpooling with my wife because I didn't want to remove the bumper to find the leak. I pulled off my bumper last night and still didn't notice the leak till I started the car and ran my hand over the passenger side IC coupler. It felt like someone had installed a fan on the front of my car because so much air was leaking. The pipe that connects to the passenger side of the IC had popped out of the coupler during all the finagling with the stock airbox. No wonder the car ran like sh!t.

 

10. Last but most important, don't start the project at 9 PM on a Saturday after watching the US lose in the world cup and drowning your sorrows in beer. Save the alcohol for the post-install (and post-test-drive) celebration.

 

I hope someone can use any part of this. I was totally bummed about my car for a while to the point of considering returning it to stock and selling it. Now I love driving again.

[itsme]

update: Got the pictures of the new pipe installed. I took a bunch of pictures so you can see it from every angle. This is the replacement pipe I will have made and shipped to everyone. Let me know what you think. Bryan

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060370.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060369.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060364.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060367.jpg

I'm going to test fit one more car before I get it into production. Maybe Max will let me take a run over to his place this weekend and try it on his car.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

Looks good. THANK YOU!

[m sprank]

Update.

 

I got the bolts to replace the lower cam cover bolt that tends to rub the cold side pipe. Correct size, pitch and length just has a button hex head. Nice smooth stainless steel top to avoid the pipe damage. Combine that with installing the hump hose coupler and the battery swap is a snap.

 

Will be in LA Saturday (possibly at Max house) I can try and meet you Bryan and deliver the bolts. Got 150 of them for you.

[LosAngelesLGT]

I'm going to test fit one more car before I get it into production. Maybe Max will let me take a run over to his place this weekend and try it on his car.

 

Wow looking good! I am really excited about this and I think it is going to really clean up any topside fitment issues I had around my turbo. I am totally open to you taking a run to over to my place this weekend to try it or maybe I can even break away and come to you. I have been wanting to drive your 20g with the new clutch to see what the difference way. (Kind-of want your opinion of the vf39 on stock fueling too).

 

Either way, I am thrilled and definately look forward to the manufacturing and distribution of the new piece! Three cheers for a cleaner engine bay!

 

EDIT: Maybe it is too late now but I would be perfectly willing to pay $20 for a revision/new pipe to help offset costs. I think the FMIC for under $800 as a steal to begin with. W/ever you want bro!

[LittleBlueGT]

Update.

 

I got the bolts to replace the lower cam cover bolt that tends to rub the cold side pipe. Correct size, pitch and length just has a button hex head. Nice smooth stainless steel top to avoid the pipe damage. Combine that with installing the hump hose coupler and the battery swap is a snap.

 

Will be in LA Saturday (possibly at Max house) I can try and meet you Bryan and deliver the bolts. Got 150 of them for you.

 

Details?

 

I could use one.

[itsme]

Details?

 

I could use one.

I'm also going to include the new bolts when I send out the new pipe and will be included in all kits. It's a smooth bolt that will be that almost fits flush and uses a hex key to install. It should give more clearance down there. I'm constantly trying to improve. Unlike most companies I don't screw early adaptors. I was just waiting till I got the bolts in to take a picture and show everyone. But, Mike beat me to it. So If I can meet up with both of them at once then the new pipe would have been tested on a 20G,68hta, and a VF39 so I will be sure it fits. Then I will start production on the new pipe and kit Version 3. Bryan

[m sprank]

Yup. I had a source for the proper bolts, so I told Bryan I would get them for him. I am delivering 150 bolts, so there is plenty for the people who already purchased and the future kits.

 

Bolt is 6M, 1.0 x 45mm, button hex head, stainless steel. So proper length size and pitch with a smooth button head that uses a hex key so you can get your tool between the rad fans and the cam cover.

[Ryandigi]

I'm also going to include the new bolts when I send out the new pipe and will be included in all kits. It's a smooth bolt that will be that almost fits flush and uses a hex key to install. It should give more clearance down there. I'm constantly trying to improve. Unlike most companies I don't screw early adaptors. I was just waiting till I got the bolts in to take a picture and show everyone. But, Mike beat me to it. So If I can meet up with both of them at once then the new pipe would have been tested on a 20G,68hta, and a VF39 so I will be sure it fits. Then I will start production on the new pipe and kit Version 3. Bryan

 

That is awesome! Thanks Bryan for including the bolt and msprank for finding it. I am currently using heating hose and it has worked surprisingly well, but my paranoid self checks it every fill-up.

[LittleBlueGT]

I'm also going to include the new bolts when I send out the new pipe and will be included in all kits. It's a smooth bolt that will be that almost fits flush and uses a hex key to install. It should give more clearance down there. I'm constantly trying to improve. Unlike most companies I don't screw early adaptors. I was just waiting till I got the bolts in to take a picture and show everyone. But, Mike beat me to it. So If I can meet up with both of them at once then the new pipe would have been tested on a 20G,68hta, and a VF39 so I will be sure it fits. Then I will start production on the new pipe and kit Version 3. Bryan

 

 

[_MFB_]

Have you tried fitting this on a forester 09/10?

[itsme]

Have you tried fitting this on a forester 09/10?

No, never found any one to do it. Bryan

[Verwilderd]

Have you tried fitting this on a forester 09/10?

 

I have a feeling it would work. The Forester is almost identical to the Impreza in the engine bay....They only thing that might need done is more trimming of the bumper cover since that is different.

[scoobydoobie]

Have you tried fitting this on a forester 09/10?

 

I posted a thread on SF.org trying to gauge interest for it, but no one really seemed interested.

[sleeper8406]

Anyone in PA close to 17961 want to help me install my kit sometime?

[timmafod]

I finally got around to installing my FMIC this past weekend. Pictures coming once I download them from my camera but until then, here's my $0.02:

 

I could have swore it's been done on an outback but searching this thread for "outback" results in nothing (until now ). This resulted in CON #1...

 

Cons:

1. My '05 OBXT Limited has a different bumper beam than the one pictured in the first post. It's a taller rectangular 3 section beam instead of a square cross section beam. Much taller than it was wide. About 15 minutes with my 4.5" angle grinder/cutoff wheel and the lower beam section was gone and the pipes fit as designed. There was zero chance of the pipes fitting otherwise.

2. OEM BOV flange could be clocked an additional 10-15 degrees. Works fine but not perfect. Minor.

3. The air temp sensor (sandwiched between IC and radiator) now reads warmer than ambient temps, but at least I know the IC is working well! I didn't notice if there was enough wire to place the sensor above the intercooler.

4. Maybe very slightly more lag. Maybe.

 

Pros:

1. Everything fit great (after bumper beam cutting and other cutting noted elsewhere in this thread). I am still using the OEM airbox and after removing the hose clips from the side of the box it is even easier to install than stock. Minor trimming needed in bumper "mouth" and under tray to clear pipes.

2. I can hear a turbo whistle now. Fun

3. I use my OBXT for towing a ~2500lb boat; noticeably more power during prolonged boost/less heat soak.

4. Just driving around town the car feels quicker, not sure if this is just in my head though.

5. Overall a killer deal.

 

I now need to find a front plate solution and research what sort of timing increases I should play with. Thoughts?

 

I'll post pics soon.

 

-Tim

[scottj]

I bought a 6x45mm flat head philips screw at a hardware store, slightly countersunk the cover, and now the screw head is pretty much flush.

[m sprank]

Yes, but I figured most people would have an issue using a screwdriver in that location. That is why I made it a point to find the proper bolt using a hex head key. That way the tool is short, yet allows you to properly torque.

 

Bryan is on vacation until the 27th. Once he returns the new bolts will be delivered.

[timmafod]

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/newpipe.jpg

Nice pink nail polish Bryan.

[scottj]

That's good thinking about making it easier for the masses.

[m sprank]

Yeah. Took an extra few days to find the bolts. But worth it in the end. Dont want to hear that someone slipped with a driver and killed a radiator, lol.

[itsme]

Yes, I'm on a much needed vacation with the family but, I still have a smart phone. I'm sorry dude. I had no ideal that the Outback had a different beam. I glad the rest worked out for you and you like the way the kit performs.

I finally got around to installing my FMIC this past weekend. Pictures coming once I download them from my camera but until then, here's my $0.02:

 

I could have swore it's been done on an outback but searching this thread for "outback" results in nothing (until now ). This resulted in CON #1...

 

Cons:

1. My '05 OBXT Limited has a different bumper beam than the one pictured in the first post. It's a taller rectangular 3 section beam instead of a square cross section beam. Much taller than it was wide. About 15 minutes with my 4.5" angle grinder/cutoff wheel and the lower beam section was gone and the pipes fit as designed. There was zero chance of the pipes fitting otherwise.

2. OEM BOV flange could be clocked an additional 10-15 degrees. Works fine but not perfect. Minor.

3. The air temp sensor (sandwiched between IC and radiator) now reads warmer than ambient temps, but at least I know the IC is working well! I didn't notice if there was enough wire to place the sensor above the intercooler.

4. Maybe very slightly more lag. Maybe.

 

Pros:

1. Everything fit great (after bumper beam cutting and other cutting noted elsewhere in this thread). I am still using the OEM airbox and after removing the hose clips from the side of the box it is even easier to install than stock. Minor trimming needed in bumper "mouth" and under tray to clear pipes.

2. I can hear a turbo whistle now. Fun

3. I use my OBXT for towing a ~2500lb boat; noticeably more power during prolonged boost/less heat soak.

4. Just driving around town the car feels quicker, not sure if this is just in my head though.

5. Overall a killer deal.

 

I now need to find a front plate solution and research what sort of timing increases I should play with. Thoughts?

 

I'll post pics soon.

 

-Tim

[slvrlegacygt]

i just finished installing my fmic kit today and took it for a test drive the kit is great and made well... i just experienced more lag than i expected i thought i could just run it on my stage 2 tune and it would run decent but its apparent i have to get it tuned for the front mount itself. I have one question though after i installed the kit i noticed more vibration of the car when it starts and from the clutch and brake pedals during driving, is that normal...has anyone else experienced this?