Racer X (itsme) FMIC install

[lordchilly]

I made a new pipe. I didn't like the way the one they sent me fit. I'm doing one more testfit on Saturday. I want to be sure this fits correctly on more car. I will send it out to be mass producded:spin: on Monday So I hope to have it back in about a month. I will be sending out a new pipe

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060506.jpg the new timiming cover bolt, http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060505.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060504.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060503.jpg

My cards and hopefully "Stickers" They add like 10whp. So I hope to have these shipping out in about a month. I have to see how long it will take to make the 80+ pipes. The pipes will be beaded like all the other pipes. I haven't forgot about you guys. I will keep you updated. Bryan

 

Is that pipe for the cold side with the new timing cover bolt? I was going to have GTtuner cut that side..unless there is a new one coming?

[TravisGT]

It replaces this piece. The extra piece for the STI style turbos.

[TravisGT]

Got done with the leak test. Only one leak by the BPV. Cut myself a new gasket, checked again and no more leak. Took the car for a ride and it seems to run much better. I think the biggest reason why is because my TMIC was leaking worse than I thought. Seems like it needs a couple hundred more RPM to get the boost up but I don't think that is abnormal. Still need to get it tuned but my laptop is down and out right now so that will have to wait just a little longer.

[TRSCobra]

Where at approximately?

 

I took pics, but you can't really tell anything with everything in place.

 

Here's what to do:

 

1. Remove the box, but not the Cobb air filter support.

 

2. Reinstall the one bottom bolt that holds the box to the unibody rail.

 

3. Install Racer X FMIC as you normally would.

 

4. Cut bottom 1-1.5" off the side of the box that contacts the FMIC hotpipe, eliminating the bottom mounting bolt position.

 

5. Test fit the box. You're goint to realize that it needs to be bent inward to accomodate the FMIC pipe.

 

6. What I did: Make two cuts about 2.5" long up near the corners of the box that contact the pipe, bend inward, till the box contacts the filter support brace. This works, but the pipe still contacts the corners of the box.

 

6A. What I WILL (and you should) do: Instead of cutting the box on the side that contacts the pipe, make a cut on the outsides of the corners and bend the entire lower edge of the box inward. That way no part of the box contacts any parts of the FMIC pipe.

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/TRSCobra/IMG_1094.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/TRSCobra/IMG_1093.jpg

 

I really rushed the modification of my box to just make it fit ASAP. Otherwise I would have painted where I missed with the cutting wheel!

[scoobydoobie]

Picked up the smaller restrictor pill earlier. It did not come pre-installed in a new line. Am I to assume that I remove the stock pill and put the smaller pill in the stock line?

[m sprank]

Its easier to stick the new pill in a new line and just replace the entire line. Just need 2 inches of vacuum tubing. Pill is on the turbo outlet side of the "T".

[LosAngelesLGT]

Am I to assume that I remove the stock pill and put the smaller pill in the stock line?

 

My six year old lines were actually still supple and mallable. I guess hot air is not as bad as hot oil/fluids for the lines. The easiest things to do is get a microwave a mug of hot water then put a drop of dishsoap into it. After that, use a allen wrench to pop the old the old pill out and to shove the new pill in.

[m sprank]

I use a dental pick. Tubing is approx 4mm in diameter (internal).

[Kylar]

Replacing the pill for a front mount seems a bit weird to me. Have any other tuners recommended this? I've never heard of a tuner asking this in the legacy or wrx for tuning front mount.

[m sprank]

Slight pressure drop across the core with OEM turbos. Causes boost to hit a few hundred RPM later and drop 1-2psi at peak. In order to get boost to hit sooner and peak higher using stock BCS, stepping down from 1.2mm pill to 1.0mm pill does the trick.

[Kylar]

Slight pressure drop across the core with OEM turbos. Causes boost to hit a few hundred RPM later and drop 1-2psi at peak. In order to get boost to hit sooner and peak higher using stock BCS, stepping down from 1.2mm pill to 1.0mm pill does the trick.

 

Sounds like that makes sense. I went with a grimmspeed EBC on my setup since I was getting protuned and my tuner recommended one.

[scoobydoobie]

Thanks for the info guys, hopefully will put this new pill in tomorrow.

[itsme]

Just to update everyone. The manufacture has the new replacement pipe and the new Mock up pipes for the '08+ STi and all you STi swap people. I will let you know as soon as I hear ETAs. Bryan

[itsme]

UPDATE: I should have the new pipes in and ready to ship by the end of next week. This will improve the fit of STI style turbos. I will include the new bolt for the timing cover. I stand behind my product and don't feel that just because you bought the kit before the problem was fixed that you should be screwed. Please PM me if you have have moved. I ordered enough pipes for every kit sold. So don't be shy about taking the pipe. You will be saving me space in my garage.

The pipe and bolt are free like I said before. If you want to help with shipping that would be great. But, if not that's cool too. I just want to make everything right. Bryan

[finse]

UPDATE: I should have the new pipes in and ready to ship by the end of next week. This will improve the fit of STI style turbos. I will include the new bolt for the timing cover. I stand behind my product and don't feel that just because you bought the kit before the problem was fixed that you should be screwed. Please PM me if you have have moved. I ordered enough pipes for every kit sold. So don't be shy about taking the pipe. You will be saving me space in my garage.

The pipe and bolt are free like I said before. If you want to help with shipping that would be great. But, if not that's cool too. I just want to make everything right. Bryan

 

Great news. I am looking forward to the new pipe. How much (approx) is the shipping going to cost per unit? I don't mind sending a few bucks to help out with the cause!

[LosAngelesLGT]

PAYPAL'd you $10 for shipping/handling/packing.

 

You have already done right by me. I am greatful you are giving me the revision free but I am uncomfortable not paying shipping. I am thrilled about this part as it will improve the fitment of my vf39. I CANT WAIT!!!

[BlackHole]

any word on aftermarket skid plates working with the FMIC?

 

I'll let you know later this week how it fits my Rallitek V1 skidplate.

 

Great job Brian, given the very limited space to run pipes. This thread has been invaluable for my install, thanks. It's all together, ready to be leak tested.

 

Notes:

Fitment on the cold side of my 05 wagon is really tight - I cut out some of the FPR cover which helped a little, but there's still a contact point there. I've accepted that the core will be shifted towards the passenger side due to the zero clearance next to the tow hook. Not a complaint, just an observation. It's not worth ot me to re-engineer that pipe for a 1/2" shift.

 

The hot side fits very well considering the core shift.

 

Once the bumper beam is back on, I'll loosen the couplings and see if there is any more play that can make fitment a little easier.

[m sprank]

No go on the skid plate. It will fit, but you need to trim around the tow hook cut out. It needs to become larger. I can trace it on my plate in outline and take a pic.

[shrike1201]

Finally got around to installing this today. I had some trouble and I browsed through a lot of this thread but I can't read through all 35 pages. Anyway, I managed to get everything connected but I really had to force the pipes together. None of my pipes lined up even within an inch, distance or angle wise. Test driving the car, I get a whistling when I get to about 2700 RPM or so and gets louder as the revs increase. The car is suffering in power. I'm assuming it's a boost leak attributed to the fact that my pipes are all angled.

 

On the hot side, the 2" pipe doesn't meet the pipe that comes up from the IC due to the fact that the airbox is blocking it and some hoses are pushing it aside. This causes the 110 degree bend that comes from the turbo flange not to meet up either.

 

On the cold side, the pipe coming from the TB coupler doesn't meet up with the pipe that meets the one coming from the IC without it pointing all the way to the outisde of the car.

 

As I said, I finagled it so that the couplers give enough slack to make the pipes come close enough together. Then I tightened the couplers down to where there is about an inch and a half of thread showing. Anyway, would you guys recommend me try and get the pipes a little closer together first or just look for the leak and see what I can do from there? I'd really like to not have to take apart everything because it was very hard to get the pipes even to the way they are now. Thanks.

[itsme]

It was a delay on the pipes they will be here on Wednesday(They e-mailed me the FED EX slip). I'm off on Tuesday and I will be shipping out all the pipes and bolt to everyone. Like I said before I need everyone to e-mail me at brmq@hotmail.com and send me your real name and shipping info so I can compare it to the list on paypal. Even if you bought the kit second hand let me know who you got it from. I ordered 85 pipes and bolts and I want to make sure everyone gets their parts. If you want to help with shipping you can send $10 to brmq@hotmail.com if, not that's fine too. Just make sure to get me your info ASAP. These new parts will be part of the kit for now on.

I have I think 2 or 3 kits left that are ready to ship. I may have a group buy in a few months once I finish the '08+ STi FMIC kit. I had the STi parts sent with the replacement pipe. Once that's done I will start work on the '10 LGT FMIC and '10 LGT DP and maybe a catt back since they can be tuned now. I have contact to get TBE made to my specs. I just want to thank everyone that bought the kit and got me to this point. Bryan

[m sprank]

You should probably realign the pipes.

[itsme]

To fit with a stock air box is tight. M Sprank did it on his car. check out post 12, 13, and 22. I haven't install the kit with a stock air box. But this is Mike posted in thread #22

Second, to fit with the OEM airbox. I had to trim off the tabs on the side of the box that held the two hoses and the MAF wires. They are all now supported by the piping. Second, I had to trim a little metal (1/2") off the front of the car to give the pipe a little extra rotation. Third, I had to be very careful putting the front piece of the airbox in (it is tight). Fourth, I had to take some time and patience to get the bottom bolt that secures the airbox tightened down. The pipe is covering it. Thats it. The only FMIC to use the OEM airbox. The car could come from the factory this way. I'm if you PM Mike about the airbox he can help you. Send my some pictures to brmq@hotmail.com and maybe I can see what is going on. Bryan

Finally got around to installing this today. I had some trouble and I browsed through a lot of this thread but I can't read through all 35 pages. Anyway, I managed to get everything connected but I really had to force the pipes together. None of my pipes lined up even within an inch, distance or angle wise. Test driving the car, I get a whistling when I get to about 2700 RPM or so and gets louder as the revs increase. The car is suffering in power. I'm assuming it's a boost leak attributed to the fact that my pipes are all angled.

 

On the hot side, the 2" pipe doesn't meet the pipe that comes up from the IC due to the fact that the airbox is blocking it and some hoses are pushing it aside. This causes the 110 degree bend that comes from the turbo flange not to meet up either.

 

On the cold side, the pipe coming from the TB coupler doesn't meet up with the pipe that meets the one coming from the IC without it pointing all the way to the outisde of the car.

 

As I said, I finagled it so that the couplers give enough slack to make the pipes come close enough together. Then I tightened the couplers down to where there is about an inch and a half of thread showing. Anyway, would you guys recommend me try and get the pipes a little closer together first or just look for the leak and see what I can do from there? I'd really like to not have to take apart everything because it was very hard to get the pipes even to the way they are now. Thanks.

[itsme]

You should probably realign the pipes.

See I told you.

[m sprank]

More than willing to help. I also installed the kit in LALGT's car using the OEM airbox (originally). He has an 05. It fit slightly different than my 08.

[timmafod]

Finally got around to installing this today. I had some trouble and I browsed through a lot of this thread but I can't read through all 35 pages. Anyway, I managed to get everything connected but I really had to force the pipes together. None of my pipes lined up even within an inch, distance or angle wise. Test driving the car, I get a whistling when I get to about 2700 RPM or so and gets louder as the revs increase. The car is suffering in power. I'm assuming it's a boost leak attributed to the fact that my pipes are all angled.

 

On the hot side, the 2" pipe doesn't meet the pipe that comes up from the IC due to the fact that the airbox is blocking it and some hoses are pushing it aside. This causes the 110 degree bend that comes from the turbo flange not to meet up either.

 

On the cold side, the pipe coming from the TB coupler doesn't meet up with the pipe that meets the one coming from the IC without it pointing all the way to the outisde of the car.

 

As I said, I finagled it so that the couplers give enough slack to make the pipes come close enough together. Then I tightened the couplers down to where there is about an inch and a half of thread showing. Anyway, would you guys recommend me try and get the pipes a little closer together first or just look for the leak and see what I can do from there? I'd really like to not have to take apart everything because it was very hard to get the pipes even to the way they are now. Thanks.

 

 

I am using the OEM airbox with my '05 outback, just trimming the hose tabs like previously mentioned. I didn't remove the other portion of the airbox (the half that bolts to the car). Very simple.

 

I get a loud whistle around 2500rpm when the turbo to first ~120deg bend joint is misaligned, which is easy to do on my car. Sorta like blowing across a beer bottle...whoooooooooooo. Definitely feels a lot slower when it does it, like some sort of wicked harmonic that f's up the flow. Those are the only two pipes that do not align pretty damn perfectly. I have to really torque the one pipe to get that joint aligned as closely as possible, tighten it down, then tighten down the next joint down the pipe.