Racer X (itsme) FMIC install

[grimsleeper]

Did you take off th bolts that hold the return hose to the manifold? It should give you more slack then that.

 

I removed the drivers side bolt attaching the hose to the manifold, are you saying there's more than one? I didn't see another but will take a look at the FSM to be sure.

 

I also had to disconnect/reconnect a wire harness that was preventing the hose from being pulled further away from the manifold to get it where it is.

 

Looking at the bottom of my COBB bov it looks like this thing may be clockable, though it's not listed in the features. If that's the case I think rotating it is going to be my best bet.

[lordchilly]

So you say you feel it not here it? When the car is running is the engine shaking? You already said it's not hitting the brake cylinder and the pipes run nowhere near the steering. You could have a leak somewhere? The engine can vibrate when you have a vac. leak or a lose t-clamp.

 

I checked the hoses and clamps. I tight them down tight. I shot two videos in park and in drive. Ill post them when I get home

[grimsleeper]

So you say you feel it not here it? When the car is running is the engine shaking? You already said it's not hitting the brake cylinder and the pipes run nowhere near the steering. You could have a leak somewhere? The engine can vibrate when you have a vac. leak or a lose t-clamp.

 

^^^ this. Most of the time a lumpy idle from engine vibration is a result of a boost/vacuum leak. Since you are experiencing it right after the install I can almost guarantee that's the problem, visual checks aren't going to get you very far though. Just because the clamps are tight doesn't mean there's not a leak, you need to pressurize the system.

The switch from top mount to fmic should not cause much (if any) more vibration than usual.

[m sprank]

if it is not hitting the master cylinder and you can feel it in the brakes grim is right. start leak checking.

 

looks like the outlet of your bpv is at a odd angle grim. i dont have experience with the new cobb. if it is clockable that would help a bunch. looks like your outlet is at a T to the flange. my gfb and avo outlets are more towards the front of the car.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I did a log today. Hit 13.5 psi and held it pretty far out. 250 g/s but still tuning maf, so not sure how accurate that is.

 

My WGDC is beyond the target (initial) table, and pretty much pegged at the max WGDC table, which I think means I have a boost leak. Still. hmph.

[lordchilly]

whats the best way to check for leaks? Someone told me to use butane and not to use soapy water. any advice? I appreciate all these fast responses to help!

 

We put on a paper gasket and some RTV on the BOV part. My friend said that RTV is a bad idea...is that true...or just use a paper gasket and thats it?

[grimsleeper]

whats the best way to check for leaks? Someone told me to use butane and not to use soapy water. any advice? I appreciate all these fast responses to help!

 

We put on a paper gasket and some RTV on the BOV part. My friend said that RTV is a bad idea...is that true...or just use a paper gasket and thats it?

 

If you're sure your intake, inlet and vac hoses are sealed I would just pressurize the fmic by disconnecting at the turbo and putting a tester cap on the end of the J pipe. Then disconnect and seal the TB end. Put compressed air through the test cap fitting and spray around for leaks. Soap is fine.

What other driveability issues are you noticing? Low/late boost, low idle, stuttering on accel? A leak from the ic will affect boost but not always idle, a vac leak will usually affect both.

 

I don't think there's any danger in using RTV, I just tend to avoid the mess unless it's absolutely necessary.

[grimsleeper]

ooks like the outlet of your bpv is at a odd angle grim. i dont have experience with the new cobb. if it is clockable that would help a bunch. looks like your outlet is at a T to the flange. my gfb and avo outlets are more towards the front of the car.

 

yep the outlet is pretty much perpendicular to the flange, fwiw I did not have the same issue with the stocker. The COBB outlet is definitely larger/longer though. It also tapers outward toward the base and does not allow the hose to slide all the way up, which isn't helping. I've been so busy working out other unrelated issues that I'm finally getting the time to go back and clean some of this stuff up.

[m sprank]

Hmmm. that sucks about the BPV.

 

With pulling the manifold (again) I have the opportunity to dress up things I was not completely satisfied with before. I am thinking of trying to modify a STi silicone BPV return tube. I will let you know how it works.

[yamie700]

With the stock BPV my return hose was pretty kinked. After running 22psi through it for months I think it was finally giving up as I would get compressor surge randomly. I went with a synapse BPV mostly because you can rotate the flange to make it line up with the return hose however you want. Just installed the synapse today but so far so good.

Also my TB hose connection is not great, had a leak there a few times, but I think I have it good enough now. That pipe hits the FPR pretty good, so I added heater hose in between to stop the rattles.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

If you're sure your intake, inlet and vac hoses are sealed I would just pressurize the fmic by disconnecting at the turbo and putting a tester cap on the end of the J pipe. Then disconnect and seal the TB end. Put compressed air through the test cap fitting and spray around for leaks. Soap is fine.

What other driveability issues are you noticing? Low/late boost, low idle, stuttering on accel? A leak from the ic will affect boost but not always idle, a vac leak will usually affect both.

 

I don't think there's any danger in using RTV, I just tend to avoid the mess unless it's absolutely necessary.

 

I just pressurize through the turbo inlet (I take my intake off), and I don't do anything else. I don't cap the TB end. Is that bad? I only use about 10 psi and find most of the leaks that way. I use foaming soap refill, it works great. Just suck it through a wide syringe of sorts and squirt it on the coupler connections.

[lordchilly]

If you're sure your intake, inlet and vac hoses are sealed I would just pressurize the fmic by disconnecting at the turbo and putting a tester cap on the end of the J pipe. Then disconnect and seal the TB end. Put compressed air through the test cap fitting and spray around for leaks. Soap is fine.

What other driveability issues are you noticing? Low/late boost, low idle, stuttering on accel? A leak from the ic will affect boost but not always idle, a vac leak will usually affect both.

 

I don't think there's any danger in using RTV, I just tend to avoid the mess unless it's absolutely necessary.

 

intake, inlet and hoses are tight and sealed. Boost is fine. When I start going its fine...only when I come to a stop. No stuttering. I will try the compress air trick. Ill go out and see if autozone has a test cap.

 

 

I noticed my vaccumm line that connects to the BOV. its underneath the manifold and it keeps popping out. Kinda of a tight squeeze to get a ziptie or clamp in there. Sounds like a duck quacking when I release from the throttle.

[lordchilly]

Thanks to 08Legacy08 we did the install. In the 3rd pic...the middle vaccuum hose comes off sometimes when I let off the gas pedal. The reason is I know its happening cause it sounds like a duck.

 

 

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[lordchilly]

Dammm...thats huge. I cant figure out the clickable thumbs on photobucket...sorry.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

your core is way more on center than mine. congrats!

[lil_z_33]

installed tonight with oem intake...intercooler seems perfectly centred...took alot to make it all work, still need to trim bumper skin a little more, as the bumper isnt clipping in just right...

[lordchilly]

your core is way more on center than mine. congrats!

 

Both cores on our cars were not centered (08Legacy08 and I). We had to trim more of the driver side metal tab. Then it was centered...we were amazed.

[lgtgirl06]

Both cores on our cars were not centered (08Legacy08 and I). We had to trim more of the driver side metal tab. Then it was centered...we were amazed.

 

We had to do the same thing.

[lordchilly]

Someone told me to use carb cleaner spray to check for leaks. Ill do that tonight. Getting sick of the vibrations.

[08Legacy08]

Chilly,It stinks that you're having trouble after the install. Mine has gotten marginably better since we did your install but now I have a low idle condition.... it studders and idles below 700 at times. Look at your "J" pipe connection (above the battery). Make sure it didn't wiggle out. Also, do you remember when we tightened up your turbo inlet? There's a vertical black rubber hose that was getting in the way. Make sure we slid the clamp back down right there on the black hose (the one that was in the way).I'm curious as to why the pbv hose keeps popping off. I think if you look into that, it may lead you to your problem.

[lordchilly]

Chilly,It stinks that you're having trouble after the install. Mine has gotten marginably better since we did your install but now I have a low idle condition.... it studders and idles below 700 at times. Look at your "J" pipe connection (above the battery). Make sure it didn't wiggle out. Also, do you remember when we tightened up your turbo inlet? There's a vertical black rubber hose that was getting in the way. Make sure we slid the clamp back down right there on the black hose (the one that was in the way).I'm curious as to why the pbv hose keeps popping off. I think if you look into that, it may lead you to your problem.

 

I double checked everything. I loosen all the clamps and reattached everything and clamped TIGHT. I;ll check that rubber hose in the morning. The one behind the manifold right?? I;ll keep trying. That carb cleaner trick did not work. I sprayed all parts of the couplers and I dont hear the idle going up. DAMMM

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I have not found that method very effective for leaks that show up in boost. Its easy to have a leak show up under boost but hold fine under vac.

 

Have someone rev it to 3k RPM while you squirt foaming hand soap (refill) on the connections. That stuff bubbles very easily when there is a leak, but stays bubble free if you use a large syringe (don't use a sprayer).

 

I found it to be a very effective way of finding leaks.

[finse]

This is how we did it, your mileage may very...

 

We blocked off the intake with a can that fit in the intake tube, in our case it happened to be a k&n typhoon and a can of goo gone. We clamped the can in, effectively capping off the intake. Then, we popped a host off the BPV (the small one). I have an air compresser, so we charged it up to about 50 PSI. One of us held the blower attachment up to the hose and pulled the trigger, while the other person searched for leaks by sound and feeling each coupler. We knew we had all the leaks accounted for when we were able to see about 6 PSI on my boost gauge and did not hear any leaks.

[08Legacy08]

So I take it that intake valves are closed when the engine is not running?

[finse]

So I take it that intake valves are closed when the engine is not running?

 

I have no idea what position the valves where in when we did the test. But, the first two or three showed us where I had obvious leaks. First was the BPV, then the TB, then a clamp on the hot side.