Racer X (itsme) FMIC install

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I agree with all the above comments, I ran into the exact same stuff ^^^^^

 

FYI AutoZone has a roll of rubberized gasket material for about $5, its a great deal for the amount you get. Its Fel-Pro 3157, they have it in the back. Its grey in color. 10" x 26" roll. Its like a rubberized paper-like gasket... it seems to be perfect for the BOV. I have not installed it yet, but imagine it will work fine.

[08Legacy08]

That's what I used for my BOV... I also used Red RTV and retained the stock o-ring. Upon a 3rd look at both the pipe flange and the stock flange.... I have to give credit to sprank. There IS NO STOCK GROOVE on the factory IC. So, in theory, the stock bov o-ring gasket should be sufficient.So, over kill it and don't worry about it! That's my motto!LGTspecB - where are you located?

[m sprank]

fwiw there are several fitment issues with this kit, and I am not alone on this so I'm not ready to chalk it up to production variances. I'm just going to throw it out there and go down the list of areas people will want to watch over time, starting at the hot side. This is on an '05, I can't speak for '07+.

 

2nd hotside pipe after turbo connection (STi config): tried it in both orientations, it is angled wrong and does not allow a flush connection to be made between the beaded lips. It also affects the alignment with the compressor outlet and makes the hotside piping a bit looser than it was with the lgt flange. As a result this needs to be retightened periodically, there have been several mornings where I have started the car and found condensation forming at the outer edge of the coupler.

 

Passenger side core connection: the pipe takes a sharp bend before connecting to the core, which puts the outer clamp at an angle. Can be reduced by cutting about *EDIT .25" off the coupler so it does not wrap around the bend. This will depend on how far you have the pipe pushed into the coupler.

 

Driver's side core pipe: depending on your setup there could be a couple issues with this section. The battery clearance issue has been beat to death, but of more concern is the lower timing cover bolt. When searching for leaks, a friend noticed that the bolt head had sawed a very deep gouge in the pipe and was a thin layer away from being a hole. I removed the pipe and had it welded, but I have no doubt that had I left it on there would have been a .5" wide hole in the pipe within weeks, or possibly days if I was driving like a complete a-hole:lol:. Rather than put a grommet in between (which would throw off the rest of the alignment) I chose to remove the bolt.

 

TB pipe: in order to have correct alignment with the TB, this section needs to be wedged into the FPR cover which is also cutting into the pipe. Though not as drastic as the previous section, it should still be watched. I would recommend padding this contact with a piece of rubber or silicone. Also as mentioned the angle of the bov flange forces the return hose to kink. In addition to unbolting it from the manifold I had to temporarily unplug a connector so it could come more toward the firewall. This is going to largely depend on the design of your BOV, with mine the kink is bad enough that it could cause stress cracks at some point.

 

I am not trying to s^&t on this kit, I appreciate what Bryan did and give him credit for addressing issues that other fmic kits do not, but there are trouble areas that need to be watched and corrected, especially over time.

 

It was mentioned by someone that this kit does not need mounting brackets because it's secured in place by design. This may be true while the car is parked, but it is being held in place as a result of tight fitment, and many of the surfaces keeping it in place are acting as saws when the car is in motion - especially if you're still on stock engine mounts. I ended up mounting an L-bracket from the core to the radiator support to avoid vertical play, and am considering one somewhere on the cold side to keep it from cutting against the timing and fpr covers. If running an STi turbo I'd also fab one up somewhere on the hot side.

 

I've seen these same issues on other LGT's that had this kit professionally installed, so I'm pretty confident they are not installer errors, but if there's something that stands out as being completely wrong I'm always open to suggestions.

 

On a better note, this kit does do what it's supposed to do. I hold 23psi tapering down to 20@redline and I don't believe a poor quality fmic kit would be able to achieve that. Just be sure to keep an eye on it once in a while and you should be fine.

 

 

 

Or at least the post is.

 

Let me elaborate. Sorry for the rant that is going to take place, but I am getting frustrated now.

 

Yes, I was the fit car for this kit. So I might be a bit biased.

 

First, the kit was designed around a 2008. The number 1 priority was getting around the air pump. 2005/6 models are different. The engine bay is different. The placement of the fuel lines, ABS distribution block and a few other things are different. The kit fits 2005/6 cars. but was not designed specifically for them.

 

Second, those with fit issues using STi style turbos, I am not sure what you are dong wrong. My SpecB uses a 68HTA. The pix speak for themselves about the fir off my turbo. Hell mine is even clocked.

 

Third, the connections at the core. Yes they are somewhat in a bend. But it in no way effect the seal. Because of how tight the bends are to get the pipes in we could not eliminate all of the bend before entering the core. Granted it is not perfect. But it works with no issues. We tested it before ever shipping it.

 

Fourth, anywhere the pipes got close to something we specifically stated to use some heater hose. If no one paid attention while installing the kit and did not look closely at where the pipes ran Bryan is not responsible. Look at my pix. You can clearly see I cut small pieces of hose and used them to protect the pipes at several locations. Some were not needed, but I am OCD. I have no gouges or holes anywhere. The heater hose is cheap and works great.

 

Fifth, professional install. Don't even get me started. This is a custom install. There are no "Pros". No one has ever been trained onhow to perform a custom install. Either you ar goos with your hands and tools AND putting together puzzles or not. Th4 only thing that make it a "Pro" install is that you paid for it. Johnny Knoxville makes a living almost killing himself on Jackass. Does that make him a professional stuntman., I guess only because he gets paid to do it. So Johnny Knoxville is a "Pro" mechanic is you pay him too.

 

I regularly fix problems caused by "Pro" mechanics for area members. I usually don't charge so I guess I am not a "Pro".

 

I think my rant is over. I am now attaching 30+ pix of my two cars. First is the SpecB with the 68HTA, then the 5EAT using OEM airbox. Between the two cars and set ups I think I have it almost all covered. Yes both cars are 2008.

 

Thanks for listening. Sorry it I piss anyone off. Bryan is a friend and he worked extremely hard on this project. Not just standing up for a friend. I bought two kits for myself and am VERY pleased with what I received for the money.

 

Following posts are the pix. I took a few. If anyone wants more or closer detailed shots to help with their install shoot me a PM.

[m sprank]

2008 SpecB with 68HTA

[m sprank]

More of the SpecB and then the 5EAT.

[m sprank]

5eat

[m sprank]

I have to give credit to sprank. There IS NO STOCK GROOVE on the factory IC. So, in theory, the stock bov o-ring gasket should be sufficient.So, over kill it and don't worry about it!

 

I don't lie. I have no motive to misinform. I have been mistaken on occasion and am not perfect. But I am never wrong, lol.

 

I honestly try to help with a minimum of sarcasm.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

msprank - I get it, you have had amazing success with this kit. I understand your frustration when others do not have the same results as you. Please don't take any of this personally, and I hope Bryan doesn't either.

 

grimm and I are seeing the EXACT same issues, perhaps our kits are from the same batch.

 

my hot pipes do not line up nearly that good. I have installed many FMIC kits and even fabricated some. you will just have to trust that the kit I have must be different than the kit you took those pictures up. Nothing I could do would get my pipes to line up like that.

 

my core alignment looks nothing like that either.

 

Sorry man. It is what it is. We all know Bryan designed a nice kit, nobody is questioning that. I will make it work, I will figure it out. You have been a help.

[LosAngelesLGT]

fwiw there are several fitment issues with MY INSTALL. Passenger side core connection: A problem may arise but will "depend on how far you have the pipe pushed into the coupler". Driver's side core pipe: The lower timing cover bolt had sawed a very deep gouge in the pipe and was a thin layer away from being a hole because metal on metal contact was allowed by the installer.

 

^Fixed to clairify some install issues

 

I've seen these same issues on other LGT's that had this kit professionally installed

 

The only official professional installer of this kit is ItsMe with MSprank as a lateral in knowledge. I can tell from your post that I did a better job installing RacerX on Drew888's car than the "pro" installers seem to have on others cars.

 

I think posting your issues is great if approached from the standpoint that most of your issues are actually INSTALLER issues and things to watch out for when installing (which they are).

[grimsleeper]

 

Or at least the post is.

 

Let me elaborate. Sorry for the rant that is going to take place, but I am getting frustrated now.

 

Yes, I was the fit car for this kit. So I might be a bit biased.

 

First, the kit was designed around a 2008. The number 1 priority was getting around the air pump. 2005/6 models are different. The engine bay is different. The placement of the fuel lines, ABS distribution block and a few other things are different. The kit fits 2005/6 cars. but was not designed specifically for them.

 

Second, those with fit issues using STi style turbos, I am not sure what you are dong wrong. My SpecB uses a 68HTA. The pix speak for themselves about the fir off my turbo. Hell mine is even clocked.

 

Third, the connections at the core. Yes they are somewhat in a bend. But it in no way effect the seal. Because of how tight the bends are to get the pipes in we could not eliminate all of the bend before entering the core. Granted it is not perfect. But it works with no issues. We tested it before ever shipping it.

 

Fourth, anywhere the pipes got close to something we specifically stated to use some heater hose. If no one paid attention while installing the kit and did not look closely at where the pipes ran Bryan is not responsible. Look at my pix. You can clearly see I cut small pieces of hose and used them to protect the pipes at several locations. Some were not needed, but I am OCD. I have no gouges or holes anywhere. The heater hose is cheap and works great.

 

Fifth, professional install. Don't even get me started. This is a custom install. There are no "Pros". No one has ever been trained onhow to perform a custom install. Either you ar goos with your hands and tools AND putting together puzzles or not. Th4 only thing that make it a "Pro" install is that you paid for it. Johnny Knoxville makes a living almost killing himself on Jackass. Does that make him a professional stuntman., I guess only because he gets paid to do it. So Johnny Knoxville is a "Pro" mechanic is you pay him too.

 

I regularly fix problems caused by "Pro" mechanics for area members. I usually don't charge so I guess I am not a "Pro".

 

I think my rant is over. I am now attaching 30+ pix of my two cars. First is the SpecB with the 68HTA, then the 5EAT using OEM airbox. Between the two cars and set ups I think I have it almost all covered. Yes both cars are 2008.

 

Thanks for listening. Sorry it I piss anyone off. Bryan is a friend and he worked extremely hard on this project. Not just standing up for a friend. I bought two kits for myself and am VERY pleased with what I received for the money.

 

Following posts are the pix. I took a few. If anyone wants more or closer detailed shots to help with their install shoot me a PM.

 

Wow, you are taking this way too personally. I'm not sure why as you did not create the kit, I understand you two are friends but let me clarify. I am not crying about any of these issues, or asking for your supreme guidance, or even an explanation:lol: I'm posting this so people are aware of potential issues and hopefully catch them during the install rather than after.

 

What exactly do you need to see pics of? Mine looks the same as yours. I addressed the TB pipe/FPR issue during the install with a piece of flat silicone adhesive, the timing cover bolt did not seem to be close enough to warrant a grommet after the install. I overlooked it and didn't want others to make the same mistake. Maybe it was mentioned somewhere in the 4 running threads for this kit but I did not see it. My fault.

BTW if you do any kind of sustained hard driving that bolt head is going to cut through the heater hose like butter:lol: Not exactly a solution imo, but good luck.

 

Good job on the mechanic/Johnny Knoxville analogy:confused: I'm sure you are infinitely more qualified than pro shops that install these things daily and see a wide variety of designs from different manufacturers - NONE of which come with any kind of meaningful instructions btw;) Who even mentioned your skill with a wrench? Why so defensive:confused:

 

If this many people are screwing up the install because of their inferior skills then I would think you'd want this info to be in one central place so there's no surprises. Or were you planning on flying out to personally install everyone's kit exactly the way it was meant to be, the msprank way?

[m sprank]

Could be some slight variance in pipes. We checked as many as possible before shipping to make sure they were the same. They do go through QC at the factory too. I was hoping my pix might help identify if pipes were mis-shaped. Like I said, if it could be verified, I bet Bryan woud be more than happy to make it right.

 

No the heater hose wont last forever. I already changed the timing cover bolt piece once on the SpecB and I use reinforced hose. That is called maintenance. I have a highly modified vehicle. It gets checked OFTEN. I would never install something like a FMIC and never look at it again. I probably do 100 times more maintenance on my cars than most people. I did admit to being OCD. But I would expect that if someone is modifying their car then they should know that it needs much more attention on a regular basis than a stock vehicle.

 

The Knoxville analogy was valid. I have more experience than many "Pro" shops. Grandfather is a heavy diesel mechanic he taught my dad. My dad raced for Team Datsun in the 1970's. I grew up turning wrenches on his 510's. Spent 10 years working on those cars for race days. I then became a industrial HVAC mechanic while working my up through the ATVA (AMA) ranks racing quads. I finally went pro with a ride from Honda. Ended my career in a wicked mess at the 4 stroke World Championships riding for Yamaha. Not to brag (but I am) but there are friggin trophies out there with my picture on them.

 

My best friend is still racing. His dad was my first sponsor. Dennis Lusardi. He spent 16 years working for Kawasaki racing. He has 3 Golden Wrenches. He won the Championships turning and tuning for Jim Weinert. Theo (his son and my friend) is the current Race Team Manager (last year was crew chief) for CanAm. I raced with and turned wrenches with these gentlemen for 10 years.

 

I might be busted up and not able to ride anymore, but I can still wrench. No I am not a "Pro", only because I do not get paid. I have more race mechanic experience 20+ years than many people on this forum have been alive.

 

If I could I would fly out and install everyones kit the m sprank way. Having had to trust my life to the machines I ride and drive (at the edge) on a daily basis, I am a little more anal than most. You don't get to the levels I have without being a perfectionist.

 

I am only trying to help those with issues. As with any major modification like this it is not always perfect. I have seen AVO FMIC installs that were downright scary. Maybe the pix help someone else. Maybe not. Maybe if I saw a pic of someone elses install that was having issues I might have a suggestion to help.

 

Cars are different. The pipes could be different too. Just trying to work WITH the members to make sure everyone has a safe, enjoyable, positive experience with their new FMIC.

 

I think I feel better now.

[grimsleeper]

2008 SpecB with 68HTA

 

So you are saying that the two pipe ends are flush inside this coupler (notice the beads)?

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3246

That was the only point I was making, and it contributes to there being some 'play' in the hotside pipes on MY car, I'm not going to speak for anyone else. Like I said I'll fab up a bracket at some point, not a big deal. Some people might not even notice or care, or have the issue at all. I do know of one other '05 that had the same problem.

 

I still think it's a good idea to attach the core to the rad support once everything's been connected and in place - especially if you are driving the car hard. Looking at the pattern of the cut I had in the pipe there was about 1" of vertical movement, was that also installer error or just good 'ol physics at work? Why would you rationally disagree with this?

[grimsleeper]

No the heater hose wont last forever. I already changed the timing cover bolt piece once on the SpecB and I use reinforced hose. That is called maintenance.

 

Instead of having a pile of hose sections set aside for every oil change why not just remove the bolt? The cover's not going anywhere. One less thing to worry about.

 

What's funny is we're basically saying the same thing. I want the fitment to be perfect as well so I am making a few minor modifications to get it that way. You said yourself the kit was not made for a '05, even if I had known that before I bought it it wouldn't have made a difference, I only expected it to be close enough to be able to make it work - so it actually exceeded my expectations.

You're preaching to the choir when you say these things should be checked on a regular basis - although the cover bolt cut through that aluminum pretty damn FAST:lol:, but for those that did not do their own install they may not know what to look for.

 

The Knoxville analogy was valid. I have more experience than many "Pro" shops. Grandfather is a heavy diesel mechanic he taught my dad. My dad raced for Team Datsun in the 1970's. I grew up turning wrenches on his 510's. Spent 10 years working on those cars for race days. I then became a industrial HVAC mechanic while working my up through the ATVA (AMA) ranks racing quads. I finally went pro with a ride from Honda. Ended my career in a wicked mess at the 4 stroke World Championships riding for Yamaha. Not to brag (but I am) but there are friggin trophies out there with my picture on them.

 

My best friend is still racing. His dad was my first sponsor. Dennis Lusardi. He spent 16 years working for Kawasaki racing. He has 3 Golden Wrenches. He won the Championships turning and tuning for Jim Weinert. Theo (his son and my friend) is the current Race Team Manager (last year was crew chief) for CanAm. I raced with and turned wrenches with these gentlemen for 10 years.

 

I might be busted up and not able to ride anymore, but I can still wrench. No I am not a "Pro", only because I do not get paid. I have more race mechanic experience 20+ years than many people on this forum have been alive.

 

I think I feel better now.

 

I'm sorry man but I gotta ask, how is any of this relevant? I still don't get what you're trying to prove.. your resume doesn't change anything that was stated in this thread:confused:

[lordchilly]

 

 

First, the kit was designed around a 2008. The number 1 priority was getting around the air pump. 2005/6 models are different. The engine bay is different. The placement of the fuel lines, ABS distribution block and a few other things are different. The kit fits 2005/6 cars. but was not designed specifically for them.

 

So what about the 07s? Are we at our own model?

[Verwilderd]

yes.

[m sprank]

No. 2007 is the same, lol.

 

You could remove the bolt all the same. The plastic timing over is going no where and that bolt holds no guides. It just holds the cover.

 

No the pipes do not touch. I dont want them too. If they touched then slight vibration would cause them to rub. They are aluminum. I dont want aluminum dust and flakes going into my motor. I have seen this before as have other members. I purposely don't let the pipes completely touch. You should not either. Learn a little about metal properties and use some common sense.

 

I am trying to prove nothing. Once again I was simply trying to help a member who was having issues with fitment. I offered advice and asked for some pix to verify. No one posted pix. Just had more people chiming in about fit issues. Still no one but me is posting pix. This is the internet. Without pix there is no proof.

 

If someone has a pipe that is mis-bent I am sure it will be replaced. That is the point. If it does not seem to fit maybe something is wrong. Post a pic and we can all help each other. Keep complaining with no pix and I get pissed. Complaining is pointless without a pic.

 

We can go on and on. Words are useless. I posted pix and can explain or defend my decisions on how I installed the kits. No one else has who is complaining of fit issues.

 

As for my resume, I would not have posted it if not for my abilities and experience being questioned. It was questioned. And yes, I regularly repair mistakes made by local "Pros" on members cars for free. Check the So Cal threads, plenty of people local know what I am talking about. I have little respect for "Pros" until I see it for myself. I have been to the championship professional level. I know what "Pro" is.

[itsme]

I'm sorry it took me awhile to respond. This have really been screwed up over here. Both of my sons play baseball now and I coach one of the teams. So, my day goes like this... Get up go to work, get off of work, pick up kids, go to park, coach or watch practice, get home 7:30 to 8pm, help with home work, feed kids, sleep, and repeat... Everyday and someone always has a game on Saturday. My season ends June 28. And to put the cherry on top. I have work getting done on my kitchen and for the last 2week I have had not kitchen and only a microwave. And don't get me started on the project over runs. Oh since my clutch change my car is running fun at idle. I'm going change back to stock range plugs today before my game. I hope that helps. So all of that has worn me out. Enough of my pitty party.

 

I don't really blame the installer for all the problems. But, sometime people just look at the instruction but, don't follow them and that causes problem. Mike and I took our time and tried to make the instructions as clear as we could. I know what Mike is talking about "pro" installer. Sometime they are so use to doing things one way it's hard for them to do thing another way. I had one local guy that went to a shop to have his kit install. It was there for over 12 hour and the installer said the kit would never fit right. I told him to come by and let me check it out. Within 2 hour after coming home from coaching a game I took his car apart, re-installed the kit and sent him on his way. From what I see in the installs that there is not just a variance in the cars but, also in how the turbos sit. When I setup the kit I base the STI setup off of my car. I have rebuilt 20g. It was a blown oil cooled 20g that I had switched over to water and oil cooled. So my clocking may be alittle different then Grimm's. The same has gone for turbos I have installed. Sometime the turbo inlet is a few degrees off and/or points more at the TGVs and makes it harder to put on the inlet. Most of us don't put on a alot of different turbos and see how the fitments varies but, I have. So, that is what I think is also part of the problem. When I made the kit I did my best to make a good fit. But it's hard to account for all variance. So slight mods may be necessary. Nothing major like some of the other FMIC kit.

 

Grim it looks like that small gap may be fixed by rotating the hot side pipe that runs along the engine slightly toward the turbo or you may have to add a 2" hump hose to fit your problem.

 

Also I think Mikes "Pro" comments are also directed at his "Pro" clutch job that caused him alot of grief. Mike is a passionate and a really great guy. I don't think he met any harm. Sometime thing can taken wrong when you read it. Like me when I use to read pm's and post on my cell. When I would read something a line at a time and have to scroll after every line I would sometime miss the spirit of the post. Any way, I hope that helps. Bryan

[grimsleeper]

No the pipes do not touch. I dont want them too. If they touched then slight vibration would cause them to rub. They are aluminum. I dont want aluminum dust and flakes going into my motor. I have seen this before as have other members. I purposely don't let the pipes completely touch. You should not either. Learn a little about metal properties and use some common sense.

Maybe you should take your own advice.

 

But my pipes touch the core inside the couplers.

 

BTW "flush" does not mean the pipes are touching;)

 

For some odd reason you've turned this into a pissing match. I pointed out a few trouble areas with this kit and as far as I'm concerned they are still valid - regardless of your championship trophies and experience with late model Bluebirds:lol: Apparently this kit takes a seasoned veteran with 20 years of HVAC experience and a best friend who races pro to install correctly:rolleyes:

 

As stated for the third time, I'm not looking for help or even remotely complaining. I already know what I need to do to get this where I want it. Nothing I listed as being 'potential issues' are a result of an incorrect install, unless you are saying the pipes shouldn't be anywhere near the bolt, or the FPR cover. Just because you put a piece of heater hose between the pipe does not mean an issue does not exist. It's called a workaround. I'm simply stating it's one thing that should be watched. You seem to feel these things should be common sense (which we're in total agreement on) and don't need to be brought up in an INSTALL thread. It's also common sense that you disconnect your battery before working in the engine bay, but you still see it mentioned at the top of every instruction sheet;)

 

I can see this going nowhere quickly, so I'll let others decide if the info is useful to them. There's really nothing else to say without polluting the thread with more BS.

[m sprank]

Yes at the core my pipes touch. It is the one place they had too and it is also the one place that is not moving without an accident. Car has already seen the track and the core has not moved. Even under 4 wheel full drifting the core has not moved. I took LALGT for a 4 wheel drift in my car. He can verify.

 

Granted nothing fits perfect. We all agree on that. I have always said that there is too much variance in everything and that nothing is going to fit "stock" that is this major a modification. I am sorry you are having to make such major workarounds. I just thought that by posting some pix we all might be able to minimize the workarounds and help each other come up with the optimal installation for all. Soeone might be able to help me even. I am always improving things.

 

The pix of my car I posted it is not even running, lol. It is in the garage being prepped for a complete teardown (again). Going EWG and replacing the fuel rails while going up to 1000cc injectors. I am also working on a new motor cover and mounting bracket for my electronics. So I had to put some of the pipes back on quickly for the shots. Kinda funny huh?

 

But, I will be able to say for certain very shortly if the kit supports 450whp.

 

Good Luck to everyone who bought this kit. It is probably now the most popular LGT FMIC made (after 3 group buys). If I can assist anyone in anyway with their install I am happy to do so. The original point of everything.

[grimsleeper]

I'm sorry it took me awhile to respond. This have really been screwed up over here. Both of my sons play baseball now and I coach one of the teams. So, my day goes like this... Get up go to work, get off of work, pick up kids, go to park, coach or watch practice, get home 7:30 to 8pm, help with home work, feed kids, sleep, and repeat... Everyday and someone always has a game on Saturday. My season ends June 28. And to put the cherry on top. I have work getting done on my kitchen and for the last 2week I have had not kitchen and only a microwave. And don't get me started on the project over runs. Oh since my clutch change my car is running fun at idle. I'm going change back to stock range plugs today before my game. I hope that helps. So all of that has worn me out. Enough of my pitty party.

 

I don't really blame the installer for all the problems. But, sometime people just look at the instruction but, don't follow them and that causes problem. Mike and I took our time and tried to make the instructions as clear as we could. I know what Mike is talking about "pro" installer. Sometime they are so use to doing things one way it's hard for them to do thing another way. I had one local guy that went to a shop to have his kit install. It was there for over 12 hour and the installer said the kit would never fit right. I told him to come by and let me check it out. Within 2 hour after coming home from coaching a game I took his car apart, re-installed the kit and sent him on his way. From what I see in the installs that there is not just a variance in the cars but, also in how the turbos sit. When I setup the kit I base the STI setup off of my car. I have rebuilt 20g. It was a blown oil cooled 20g that I had switched over to water and oil cooled. So my clocking may be alittle different then Grimm's. The same has gone for turbos I have installed. Sometime the turbo inlet is a few degrees off and/or points more at the TGVs and makes it harder to put on the inlet. Most of us don't put on a alot of different turbos and see how the fitments varies but, I have. So, that is what I think is also part of the problem. When I made the kit I did my best to make a good fit. But it's hard to account for all variance. So slight mods may be necessary. Nothing major like some of the other FMIC kit.

 

Grim it looks like that small gap may be fixed by rotating the hot side pipe that runs along the engine slightly toward the turbo or you may have to add a 2" hump hose to fit your problem.

 

Also I think Mikes "Pro" comments are also directed at his "Pro" clutch job that caused him alot of grief. Mike is a passionate and a really great guy. I don't think he met any harm. Sometime thing can taken wrong when you read it. Like me when I use to read pm's and post on my cell. When I would read something a line at a time and have to scroll after every line I would sometime miss the spirit of the post. Any way, I hope that helps. Bryan

 

Thanks Bryan, I want to reiterate that I am not in any way trying to knock this kit. The things I listed are pretty damn minor compared to issues presented by other kits (I've also installed the AVO and SSAC on other cars) - especially considering the benefits, and if I had to do it all over again I would still buy it in a heartbeat. I did actually play around with the rotation of the hotside pipe a bit during the install and it made a huge difference in alignment - just looking to fine tune it a bit. In retrospect maybe I shouldn't have even listed it as an 'issue'.

 

I used to install and now do CAD designs for mission kits on Sikorsky helicopters, so I know first hand how complex it can be to make a kit work amongst a hundred different variables.

I have great respect for the fact that you stepped up and created something to address the shortcomings of other kits from major manufacturers, and honestly hope my comments don't dissuade others from buying yours. That was certainly not my intention.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I keep getting leaks at the TB coupler. The 180 degree cold pipe is angled slightly down, but the coupler coming off the TB is pointing straight back. This makes my clamp crooked with respect to the coupler and I have a slight leak there (little bubbles).

I STILL have a leak at the BOV as well. I am going to need a thicker rubber gasket. I am not making a mess with any silicone gasket maker. The recirc hose is putting a ton of stress on the BOV because of the poor alignment. I might try to heat and cool that hose to see if I can relieve the stress on it.

 

Anyway, there is the update. Boost leaks galore, just tracking them down.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I think a 45 degree coupler at the TB would be nice. It would keep the pipe off the brake reservoir / booster, and it would make for a better connection there. I would angle the 45 upward and slightly towards the driver's side of the car. I wish they made a 22 degree coupler, that would be more appropriate. 45 might be too much.

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=917&osCsid=e273acaaf368ed7b4c44581757167921

 

I might also get a 2" hump hose straight coupler for the hotside, that might allow for some better play in the pipes.

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=12&osCsid=e273acaaf368ed7b4c44581757167921

 

$33 for both + shipping. Might be worth it.

 

grimm, what are your thoughts? we seem to have the same fitment issues.

 

Also, is it bad that I re-used the LGT rubber coolant line on the turbo feed for my STI turbo? I see in the pic below that someone used a straight coolant hose here. I just flipped my LGT hose around and twisted it a bit. It seems to work just fine.

I also used the same coolant outlet hose as well, the sti coolant outlet tube was pointing upwards slightly.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3246

[m sprank]

LGT a pic would help. But if you just need a little ""play" hump hose couplers are wonderful. I have had no issues coming off the TB, so it is hard to visualize your problem, sorry.

 

As for the BPV, I have had no issues with OEM, GFB, or AVO. I just use the OEM o-ring on OEM, and paper gasket on the others. Maybe I got lucky? I do think it is very important to be aware of the soft aluminum flange on the FMIC piping. It could easily bend if over torqued.

 

I was unable to re-use the OEM hose from the coolant reservoir to the turbo or from the outlet of the turbo. Heck, I changed all the hoses. The angles are different off the WRX style turbos so I did not like that. Then I needed a little more length too. I found the outlet to need complete re- routing for unobstructed flow and the oil return line at the bottom is such a pain I just made a longer one. You can see I am still unhappy with the hose and using a spare hose clamp to make sure it stays round. My turbo has been out once already and is coming out again. I know when I put things in that I am never going to leave well enough alone so I prepare for future mods.

[itsme]

Thanks Bryan, I want to reiterate that I am not in any way trying to knock this kit. The things I listed are pretty damn minor compared to issues presented by other kits (I've also installed the AVO and SSAC on other cars) - especially considering the benefits, and if I had to do it all over again I would still buy it in a heartbeat. I did actually play around with the rotation of the hotside pipe a bit during the install and it made a huge difference in alignment - just looking to fine tune it a bit. In retrospect maybe I shouldn't have even listed it as an 'issue'.

 

I used to install and now do CAD designs for mission kits on Sikorsky helicopters, so I know first hand how complex it can be to make a kit work amongst a hundred different variables.

I have great respect for the fact that you stepped up and created something to address the shortcomings of other kits from major manufacturers, and honestly hope my comments don't dissuade others from buying yours. That was certainly not my intention.

No, Problem.

[LGTspecB1657615261]

I cut my j-pipe shorter and that helped a bit, but its still not ideal. My STI "adder" pipe looks nothing like the ones I have seen in the pictures thus far, mine is shorter and the angle between the ends is sharper.

 

I think I am going to buy a 2" U-pipe to replace the both J-pipe and the sti turbo "adder pipe". The way my hoses line up, it seems a U-pipe would be perfect (with one leg shorter than the other). I might buy a 1.75" -> 2" coupler for the sti turbo... I still don't like how loose of a fit it is.

 

I guess my car just hates me. I have been fiddling with this for days and tried just about every orientation. Oh well. I will figure it out.