08Legacy08 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 I was thinking of installing an LCD TV in there! What do you think? LOL. Honestly though, I'm going to put some mesh grille material in there and match it to the mesh in the front. I agree - it looks awful silly the way it is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTspecB1657615261 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Installed mine today... some crappy cell phone pics: http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m38/KineticTheory/2010-05-09193035.jpg Your core is MUCH more on center than mine. Time to take the bumper back off and move everything back around. I will try pushing the cold pipe further into the TB coupler... though I feel like its in there pretty far. Sprank, did you just use a 2" coupler on the STI turbo? Its a little loose, I just cranked the clamp down hardcore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 Yup. Used the 2" coupler that is supplied. It is a little loose before clamping. Once it is clamped it is good to go. Mine holds 23si no problems. All the kits I have installed the core is about 1/2 inch off center. That is all. You can not really tell without a measuring tape. It is all about the fit off the core and how you trim the metal to allow the pipes to come closer to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 I hate how mine is in there crooked... I've noticed this on other's installs too. I'm pulling it apart this weekend to do some more cutting (while my buddy has his plasma cutter). I might even trim the beam a little bit.The cold air up pipe (driver's side) is awfully tight in there I wonder If i can make some more room... I'll update... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted May 10, 2010 Share Posted May 10, 2010 I hate how mine is in there crooked... I've noticed this on other's installs too. I'm pulling it apart this weekend to do some more cutting (while my buddy has his plasma cutter). I might even trim the beam a little bit.The cold air up pipe (driver's side) is awfully tight in there I wonder If i can make some more room... I'll update... Whatever you do DO NOT CUT THE BUMPER BEAM. That is the antithesis of this kit. Just away a bit more flash around the frame rails at the bottom to nestle the fmic pipes BACK and UP where you need them to be to be even. Don't cut the bumper beam. No one else is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGTspecB1657615261 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Still tracking down boost leaks Found 2 already. Thought that would be it... but no. I will have to take the bumper off and check those fittings as well. Ahhh the joys of a FMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Sounds like you were a little easy on the t-clamps. You need to tighten them down more than expected. They are holding pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 I found the places that might have them are at the bov, the tb and the connection at the j pipe to the ic pipe on driver's side. The other side seems to have a little more space to wear the pipes should make good connections. I would start there and see what you find. I know I had a boost leak and it came from the driver's side....never found out exactly where the leak was, but adjusted all the pipes and it appears to be gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Sounds like you were a little easy on the t-clamps. You need to tighten them down more than expected. They are holding pressure. +1....I was afraid of bending pipes by tightening the clamps down to hard but I wouldn't worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 I admit to popping the hotside tube off the turbo the first time I punched it. After that I torqued the ever loving crap out of all the t-clamps. Never had an issue again until a certain local mechanic working on my clutch decided to strip a t-clamp with a gun. I fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 I think I have some kind of boost leak:When I get on the throttle, right around 2800RPM, I can hear a swoosh begin and as soon as I give it more gas the swoosh gets rediculously loud but it doesn't seem like the car has any balls. Car starts pulling around 4000 rpm but by 4500rpm, the turbo maxes out (the sound that sounds like launch control).With the factory top mount and my Typhoon intake, it had MUCH more responsiveness and didn't make anywhere near the amount of swoosh noise as it does now. Does this sound like boost leak to you? I checked all the silicone clamps... they'r very, very tight. I'm wondering if it might be leaking at the factory BOV and flange. There doesn't seem to be much more than a tiny little rubber gasket between the two... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 It could be the bov....the sound seems normal....that parts that bothers me is the lack of "balls". Did you use a new gasket at the bov? Iv'e hav gasket issues there before. You can try some rtv to see if it seals.....otherwise you can do a smoke test and see if any is leaking. If you can't do that, you can get some carb cleaer and spray around all the clamps. If the car revs up whenever you spray it...you know you have a leak. Just spray one place at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 There was actually no gasket on the factory BOV other than a tiny, thin rubber gasket that was recessed into the bottom of the BOV valve flange. Should there be a larger flat gasket to seat between the Pipe flange and the BOV to cover more surface area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finse Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 There was actually no gasket on the factory BOV other than a tiny, thin rubber gasket that was recessed into the bottom of the BOV valve flange. Should there be a larger flat gasket to seat between the Pipe flange and the BOV to cover more surface area? I seem to recall someone talking about this, possibly using gasket paper? I am also curious, mine is on with just the little rubber gasket right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Upon quick look, it appears as though the BOV flange and Pipe flange are not lined up perfectly (a tiny, tiny bit - although the bolts are through and tight. I'll have to take it apart when I get home and see what's up. I'm thinking there should be a better gasket. What do aftermarket BOV gaskets look like? I'm sure they're bigger like the one we made up for the Turbo/Pipe flange. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 The gasket material is cheap, and it's pretty easy to fashion the gasket. Might be worth a try. I made the one for my Perrin, out of the blue gasket paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 OEM BPV uses an o-ring. It is recessed into its groove. That is all you should need. The o-ring probably needs to be replaced. When you put the new one on put a small drop of motor oil on the ring to lubricate it. Most aftermarket BPV's have a flat flange and use standard gasket paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 OEM BPV uses an o-ring. It is recessed into its groove. That is all you should need. The o-ring probably needs to be replaced. When you put the new one on put a small drop of motor oil on the ring to lubricate it. Most aftermarket BPV's have a flat flange and use standard gasket paper. +1 That's all that the factory bpv requires. For aftermarket bpv/bov's I would recommend gasket paper (i used that and some rtv). But when you take the bpv off the stock tmic, you really should go ahead and replace it as it couldn't has easily ripped and it probably not sealing properly. I think those oem rubber rings are like $6-$8. You could prob just get away with gasket paper and some rtv (if you paranoid). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 The flange on the IC piping does not have a groove in it for this little rubber gasket. like the factory TMIC has. So now, the soft skinny gasket is getting squished between the BOV and the flat, non-recessed IC pipe flange and I just don't believe it is proper.We'll see... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimsleeper Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Upon quick look, it appears as though the BOV flange and Pipe flange are not lined up perfectly (a tiny, tiny bit - although the bolts are through and tight. I'll have to take it apart when I get home and see what's up. I'm thinking there should be a better gasket. What do aftermarket BOV gaskets look like? I'm sure they're bigger like the one we made up for the Turbo/Pipe flange. Anyone? That seems to be normal with this kit, my OEM and COBB BOV flanges were both off (outer sides were not flush), especially toward the rear of the pipe flange. There is enough metal on metal to make a seal, though. If you're looking to make a paper gasket this might help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lgt-style-bov-bpv-gasket-template-131741.html?t=131741&highlight=GASKET+TEMPLATE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 That seems to be normal with this kit, my OEM and COBB BOV flanges were both off (outer sides were not flush), especially toward the rear of the pipe flange. There is enough metal on metal to make a seal, though. If you're looking to make a paper gasket this might help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lgt-style-bov-bpv-gasket-template-131741.html?t=131741&highlight=GASKET+TEMPLATE Okay, that answers that question then. I'll tighten it down a bit and see if there's any room there. Maybe an aftermarket BOV is in my near future after all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finse Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 If you're looking to make a paper gasket this might help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lgt-style-bov-bpv-gasket-template-131741.html?t=131741&highlight=GASKET+TEMPLATE Freak'n sweet! We just tested mine, it leaked at the BPV. so it's paper gasket time. This template was perfect. Thanks for the link! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 So yours WAS leaking eh? Noticable difference now you have a flat gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimsleeper Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Okay, that answers that question then. I'll tighten it down a bit and see if there's any room there. Maybe an aftermarket BOV is in my near future after all! Keep in mind it is pretty thin aluminum, and will easily warp if overtightened. I also used washers on both sides of the bolt to help distribute the pressure. You will need a gasket, I didn't mean to imply that you wouldn't. The alignment issues I was taking about have to do with the shape of the flange, it is slightly different than the standard LGT one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08Legacy08 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 Ahh gochya! I'm waiting to hear about finse's progress using the template! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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