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Racer X (itsme) FMIC install


itsme

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hi,

thanks for the feedback.

actually we had a printout of the thread - no way to remember which coupler goes where otherwise.

 

no issues with the cutting at all and we have very good clearance at at the bottom.

both sides went under and inside the tow hooks, and after everything was tightened we used some

zipties and rubber hose to actually secure the pipes to the tow hooks.

 

the problem was really in the piece that connects to the turbo (i think it is like a 90 deg turn) and the

piece which was recommended for a sti-style turbo.

in normal positioning the two pieces simply were misaaligned by about 1.5-2 inches (on my car).

in order to get the whole thing to piece together, we simply twisted all the pipes until each pair of edges was

close enough to fit in the same coupler and the just tightened it.

because the pieces are at different angles to each other, they don't look (at least to me) to be making

an air-tight connection, but i'll find out tomorrow when everything is closed up.

 

it is a bit hard to explain, but when we first put things together they simply did not fit, and it looked

like there is no way to even get them close enough.

i will try to take some pictures tomorrow, before we put the bumper cover also.

 

Gondor it is either your car or how you put it together. Did your installer look at the thread and watch the cutting videos? All of my pipes pretty much mate up nice and even. In Drew888's SpecB they all mate up perfectly straight. Leaks will not be an issue.

 

Can you post some pics? First of all, where the pipes are down low around the tow hooks and where the bad connections are...

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and just to clarify, as with every other fmic that i have read about and heard about,

i was prepared to have some fitment issues.

 

things are really , really tight on the cold side - but they fit, almost perfect.

there is some cutting necessary in the front, but it is minor.

there is a good clearance on the hot side, until you reach the turbo

(might be really just a problem with the hta68) and then it just doesn't fit.

i don't know why and it doesn't matter why it doesn't fit, i intend to keep the the kit,

and just wanted to provide some feedback -hopefully someone can benefit from my experience.

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All cars are different. But I have a 68HTA and all the pipes line up nice and are touching inside the couplers. Pix speak for themselves. So does my e85 tune that runs 23psi. I pulled a 2005 Z06 Vette yesterday.
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uh oh, now you've got me a little paranoid for my 68hta install with this kit.

 

sprank, any extra specific pipe modifications necessary for fitment with this turbo? and if your saying the hta's fitment isnt so good, but the pipes line up nice, isnt that kinda a contradiction???:spin:

 

just lookin for some clarification so I know exactly what Im getting myself into when the fmic/hta install day arrives.

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uh oh, now you've got me a little paranoid for my 68hta install with this kit.

 

sprank, any extra specific pipe modifications necessary for fitment with this turbo? and if your saying the hta's fitment isnt so good, but the pipes line up nice, isnt that kinda a contradiction???:spin:

 

just lookin for some clarification so I know exactly what Im getting myself into when the fmic/hta install day arrives.

 

 

No. The problem is that the 68HTA inlet is not in the same place as OEM. My inlet tube is off to one side. Plus the inlet coupler is a little crushed by the TGV. Then the turbo outlet hits an electrical plug. Need to clock the turbo 5deg to install the coupler.

 

The 2 pipes off the turbo don't look like they fit so well.

 

Hows that? Hard to get a camera angle that shows what my eyes see. All pipes are touching inside the couplers including the turbo outlet.

 

No FMIC except a custom built one off is going to have perfectly aligned pipes. My pipes all touch inside the couplers and make pretty darn straight lines. Plus I have been running 23psi for two days now with no issues. Been at 20 psi all week.

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They just look a little kinked, maybe I'm being too critical. I made sure none of my pipes touched inside the couplers, because from my experience installing them, pipe ends rubbing together created some aluminum shavings. :eek:
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I feel like a few people now have had fitment issues with this FMIC and and STI style turbo (08Scooby, LB LGT, gondor). Maybe itsme could fix the pipe needed for an STI setup before the second round of FMICs come out from this latest group buy...
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I feel like a few people now have had fitment issues with this FMIC and and STI style turbo (08Scooby, LB LGT, gondor). Maybe itsme could fix the pipe needed for an STI setup before the second round of FMICs come out from this latest group buy...

Already on it. The new GB is V2. I'm think going to make the the pipe after the elbow that comes off the turbo about 1-2" shorter.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060286.jpg

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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B,

 

So if I take the below piece I should cut it at the weld removing about 1 1/2" of the straight part of the pipe and then have it rewelded to make the V1 a V2? I know, I know, I am going to have to wait and see pics when it comes comparing the two.

 

M

 

Already on it. The new GB is V2. I'm think going to make the the pipe after the elbow that comes off the turbo about 1-2" shorter.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060286.jpg

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B,

 

So if I take the below piece I should cut it at the weld removing about 1 1/2" of the straight part of the pipe and then have it rewelded to make the V1 a V2? I know, I know, I am going to have to wait and see pics when it comes comparing the two.

 

M

No, As you see on Mike's car it fits and works fine. I'm just anal (not in the gay way:lol:) and I'm always trying to improve. The revision will make it look alittle better not change the performance. Bryan

Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Why not just make it one piece?

 

Bryan, I have a few good ideas to make your product even better. Check it out.

 

So, consider (for a V2) the pipes coming off the IC. On the drivers side, the pipe can be angled such that it doesn't hit the timing cover bolt. The end near the battery can stop before the first bend so it's much easier to install (or remove if needed). The the piece to the TB can include that bend missing from the other piece. This way all you need to remove to get at the battery is the one piece going to the TB hose. The existing piece also has it's bends too severe. I just looked at it and there are too bends that are bent too much for no apparent reason.

 

Now on the other side, off the IC just behind the headlight, this piece should come forward a hair and be a little taller. No reason at all for it to contact the timing cover here.

 

The next piece is ok but could follow the frame rail better (not that important I know, just an observation) but the end of it is odd. I think the water pipe outlet should incorporate a pipe. This would then mean you have only one piece that's different between Impreza and LGT fitments not to mention one less coupler.

 

Have you consider reversing the flow? The hot side on the drivers side? this way the difference between the two turbo types only means two different lengths of a straight pipe, smaller hot side pipes would fit much better on the drivers side. The only problem with this may mean it won't work with all intakes. Unless you had a 90* right at the top of the timing cover to keep it low. Just an idea...

 

 

Already on it. The new GB is V2. I'm think going to make the the pipe after the elbow that comes off the turbo about 1-2" shorter.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060286.jpg

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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These are all valid ideas. But you are using a single car for measurement. You can not design a pipe based on the frame rail in 1 car. Subaru specs call for up to 1 inch of variance in chassis. We measured several cars in an attempt to make a kit that fits well in all cars regardless of variance.Please realize that this is not a custom kit. It is designed taking into consideration the many requests of members, ease of installation and performance at a price point.I think Bryan did an excellent job.
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1 inch is a lot and I understand the variance between the 05-7 to 08-09s.

 

Most of what was mentioned is independant of those variables.

 

I wouldn't have bought and installed one if I wasn't on board with the whole thing, but there is room for imporvement. All things considered Bryan did an awesome job!

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I understand.

 

1 inch is allowed by Subaru. Manufacturers allow LOTS of slop. It is amazing sometimes how well things can fit.

 

Bryan is not (yet) a major manufacturer. He is a forum member, average working guy, father, husband, and football coach for his boys team. He took on a HUGE amount of work and a rather large financial burden to produce this FMIC. It was made with the utmost thought to rectify the issues other FMIC's had.

 

No one else stepped up to do this. You have no idea the sh*t that went down in the mans life during the 8 months of development. This was a far more difficult project to bring to reality than most can imagine. I have the utmost respect and appreciation for what he has done.

 

To ask for more changes now, even after he offered to make a change that may or may not improve the kit, is getting to be much. If you had any idea of the cost involved in changing things and the cost he has already incurreded due to the multiple changes during development you would not ask for more.

 

I am sure Bryan can make any changes that are agreed upon by the next 10+ purchasers. But I am also sure that if things have to be changed again the price will go up.

 

Changes like trying to rebend a pipe 2 degress because some cars touch a bolt that can be removed or covered is asking a lot. If he changes it, maybe it then hits the bolt on the cars that it does not hit on now. Look at the tolerances and amount of space he is dealing with.

 

I agree changeing a battery is going to be a pain. We discussed it during development. In the end the benefit of having the coupler in an easily accessible location (the same coupler on the XO2 kit is a b*tch) won out over battery access. How often do you change a battery? If that coupler blows loose during hi boost you will be thankful it is in the current location. Bryan even included an extra coupler and clamps so if you really want to you can mod it yourself.

 

Nothing in life is perfect. I think Bryan tried extremely hard to come as close as he could. I think his kit fits better than a major name I could have paid $500 more to get. I'll take the extra $500 saved and buy me a clutch.

 

Sorry for the rant. Not trying to piss I the wind. I just really like my FMIC and I think Bryan is a heck of guy (in a non gay way).

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To prove it works, even if some think the fit could improve, my 91craptacular tune.

 

This is a 3rd gear pull in a SpecB, clutch slipping some around 4000rpm.

 

I would post a graph for the e85 tune, but it is useless as the clutch slippage is too great.

 

These numbers would be slightly higher with a good clutch.

 

2008 SpecB

68HTA

750cc DW top feeds

255lph Walbro

GS TGV deletes (coated)

3mm phenolic spacers

Perrin LW crank pulley

Perrin EL headers

Cobb uppipe

ERZ catted DP

SPT CBE (modded to 3" flange)

Typhoon intake

AP inlet tube

Prodrive 3 port BCS

GFB BPV (100% recirc)

RacerX FMIC

Infamous1 tune

 

OEM clutch at 17k miles

598961979_NewImage.thumb.JPG.6fb6402887479de852fa54e1d0e4d25b.JPG

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some pictures attached. they were taken with my cellphone in random order and for some of them i don't remember why.

 

3, 4, 5, 6 are intended to show where the pipes didn't allign properly.

 

because of pic 1 (pipe touching the bolt) we loosened everything and shifted the core to the left, but that didn't help.

i still have a rattle that i need to fix - i have group-n engine and transmission mounts, but engine is still moving too much.

 

if i had to do it all over again, i'd still get this kit.

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I understand.

 

I'll take the extra $500 saved and buy me a clutch.

 

Sorry for the rant. Not trying to piss I the wind. I just really like my FMIC and I think Bryan is a heck of guy (in a non gay way).

 

I do understand, really...my point was that IF he MAY have been considering making a small change here and there that just maybe there was a small something somewhere in my previous post that sparked an idea or two.

 

People reading this need to understand that I to really like my FMIC and I have always known Bryan is a heck of a guy (and not in a gay way) :D

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=1586"VbGallery/URL]
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gOndor, the hotside pipe on your car is way farther towards the firewall than on either of my cars. Or the third car I installed the kit on. This is strange. I doubt this is variance in the piping, but more in the cars.

 

Drew, I hear you. Started a So Cal meet thread in the So Cal forum. Check it out. People already signing up.

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some pictures attached. they were taken with my cellphone in random order and for some of them i don't remember why.

 

3, 4, 5, 6 are intended to show where the pipes didn't allign properly.

 

because of pic 1 (pipe touching the bolt) we loosened everything and shifted the core to the left, but that didn't help.

i still have a rattle that i need to fix - i have group-n engine and transmission mounts, but engine is still moving too much.

 

if i had to do it all over again, i'd still get this kit.

 

Mine is about the same.

 

Nice pics for a cell phone, sheesh.

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Just got tuned today with the kit. Made some really nice numbers on a fairly conservative dyno! I went from 242 whp (pull before tuning today) to 260 whp and 268 wtq to 311 wtq. That was a crazy gain for merely just adding a front mount. Bryan, I can't tell you how pleased I am with this kit!

 

Now I just need a softer spring for by bov...I've got compressor surge like no other.

 

One quick question...upon cutting that piece where the i-bolt screws in, I notice that on the pass side (hot side) the pipe coming from the core going in front of the timing cover is touching at the bottom. Has anyone else had this happen? I'm wondering if I need to readjust some...anyone think this is a big deal?

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Nice tune.

 

The softer spring is a must.

 

I don't think touching the plastic timing cover is a big deal. It isn't forced against it, is it? If it is just touching, I would think it is fine. Both of mine kinda touch. More like off to the side at the top of the cover.

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