Vent Boost Gauge (Digital Led Bars & numerics)

[TSiWRX]

^ johnAWD's write-up is awesome. It's truly one of the best ways of routing anything and everything beyond the firewall, since that main harness grommet over by the passenger side is so danged hard to fish-tape through. I recommend and link to his writeup nearly every time I'm faced with the question of breaching the forward firewall on the BL/BP.

[Draco-REX]

Oh, I forgot to mention something. If you tap into the line from the intake runner, you'll want to install a restrictor. The needle on my gauge was vibrating like crazy at full boost until I put one in.

[DrSpeed]

Oh, I forgot to mention something. If you tap into the line from the intake runner, you'll want to install a restrictor. The needle on my gauge was vibrating like crazy at full boost until I put one in.

 

You mean a snubber?

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pressure-gauge-snubbers/=8iawzr

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/pressure/3820kp1l.gif

[Draco-REX]

Nope, this:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Vacuum-Tubing-Connectors---Hard-Restrictor-3-16%22-Dorman_5019508-P_N3122_A%7CGRP2037____

 

It's not pictured, but there's a brass "pill" inside it with an opening that looks to be 1/32" or so. It helps choke off oscillations in the line. It looks like the snubber you linked could work.. Just be a pain to get the right one and would only work for a setup that uses brass fittings.

 

I'm not sure if this is even an issue for the digital gauge, but thought I should mention it.

Edited August 22, 2010 by Draco-REX

[stocklgt]

I never really got a chance to post any pictures or my feedback on the gauge. First I want to thank balrock01, ean611, and lossol for all their guidance in the installation process. To be honest when it comes to wiring, I am pretty dumb, so if I can get this down pat, I'm pretty sure anyone can.

 

First, I found it easiest to route the vacuum line. I chose to route it behind the right strut tower and through the driver's side wheelwell grommet, as per the boost gauge installation writeup posted in this thread. Obviously this was t'd off by the BPV. When i routed my DB gauge and LC1 wires, I went through the grommet directly behind the turbo/DP, as the bung for the DP is a few inches from the grommet. It is MUCH easier to route through the driver's side fender, although they are both equally as time consuming due to taking the wheel off and dropping the mud guard to access the grommet. I used a metal hangar which i straightened out and taped the vacuum line to the tip to route it through.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ag.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ai.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ae.jpg

sender velcro'd above fusebox by airbag harness.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ad.jpg

(not pictured) one of the things i messed up on was tapping into power. Instead of just using a fuse tap off of #26 (labeled IG2 in 05 GT) I drew power from the ash tray light underneath the radio. Aparently that does not supply the right power, causing the unit to turn off briefly while starting the vehicle.

 

The actual fitment of the gauge in the vent was the easiest part, although you must take your time to make sure not to scratch the face of the gauge or the board. I think it seems way more delicate than it actually is, as I accidentally banged into it the other day getting into the car and it did not crack, scratch or even smudge.

 

(sidenote: if anyone has the little chrome accent for the vent, lmk please! i lost mine during install?)

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ah.jpg

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll223/gxe5spd/legacy/ab.jpg

I still need to recalibrate my LC1, after I reprogrammed the voltage output as per the directions which came with the VBG1 I accidentally reset the sensor, so it's readings are out of whack. I also still need to analize data from the logs better to see how accurate the readings are, but I feel strongly it is within ~.3 psi at any given moment. Vacuum seems spot on as well.

 

As noted in some earlier pages of the thread, you will have an error in your readings if you tap off of the incorrect power source. I was driving around and seeing 22+ psi when I really only see tops of 16psi in any gear. Once I fuse tapped IG2, vacuum and boost readings were normal.

 

I retired my old cell phone halfway through install, so I need to still upload some more pictures related to the routing of the vacuum line as well as wiring and fitment of the VBG1 into the actual vent. Once they are uploaded to photobucket i will try to post them here.

 

Overall impressions are, well...I'm pretty impressed. Setup is a breeze, and altering any defaults is a cinch as well. I have mine set for boost alarm at 15psi, and so far it has worked very well. With some music on or the windows down it is hard to hear the beep, but the unit does a good job of alerting you by flashing from white to black backround to alert you of the boost alarm. The graph readout is great, it shows you a max of 10 seconds in boost event, which is good for a long pull and logs your taper pretty accurately. It is very fast to update the user with instant feedback and is viewable in all conditions, whether in severe sun conditions or at night. I wish i could say the same about the center stack gauges, but with the sunroof open forget about it.

 

With the recent weather conditions it has been a great chance to test out extremes, and so far it has responded flawlessly. Last week the gauge was subjected to multiple days of sitting in direct sunlight while parked on the street. I have no question that the gauge will hold up to severe heat and light conditions with no fade or effect on reliability. During this time I also had the A/C blasting while commuting, and no noticable condensation formed during the drive. Of course when opening the door after the drive the gauge did fog up, but that was due to the quick change in temperature, normal for any screen of this nature. I only saw the condenstaion for a split second, my glasses fogged up immediately after.

 

It is also remarkable the amount of rain we have seen in the past 24 hours. During this turrential rain the guage saw its fair share of water droplets on the face, as well as a blast of about 3-4 seconds of direct downpour due to the rain and wind shifting while i was opening the drivers side door. While i was nervous and wiped it off with a towel immediately, im sure when left in a position with no drying option wit would do just fine drying itself up.

 

The tactile feedback is excelent, and while I have my gauge wired to parking lights to dim at night, theres no doubt the sensor would function as designed. My only gripe about the unit is that vacuum and boost led's are the same color, and although their position is different on the gauge (boost starts from bottom right, vacuum starts from top left) it would be nice to see a red led for vacuum and green or blue for boost. I'm pretty sure this can even be achieved by placing colored plastics inbetween the board and face if you don't want to change color of the led's, but i'm apprehensive to start messing with the gauge as I'm nervous to alter any electronics with my very basic knowhow.

 

Once again thanks to everyone who walked me through this very simple install. I look forward to sharing my findings as time progresses. So far I am very happy with the outcome, and I am excited to really put the gauge through it's paces once I have corrected the LC1 issue. As stated before I'm most nervous about it's durability, and over time it will be put through some tests due to my carelessness. I only hope it can hold up to my abuse.

 

Jason

Edited August 23, 2010 by stocklgt

[TSiWRX]

^ Great write-up!

 

Oooooh....that does look like it's right up my alley. I think I'm gonna go for one, after this initial rush is over.

 

First, I found it easiest to route the vacuum line. I chose to route it behind the right strut tower and through the driver's side wheelwell grommet...It is MUCH easier to route through the driver's side fender, although they are both equally as time consuming due to taking the wheel off and dropping the mud guard to access the grommet.[/qutoe]

 

Quick tip - unless you have He-Man arms/hands or are severely slammed, usually, you can get more than enough working room by simply cranking the wheel all the way.

 

sender velcro'd above fusebox by airbag harness.

[/qutoe]

 

Another tip - it'll be just fine, in more temperate climates as well as if there's something exerting force to hold it in-place, but if not, you'll either want to spend the extra few bucks to look for the 3M VHB-based "SuperLock" strips from RadioShack (if you prefer a "VELCRO"-type setup) or, alternatively, use the 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape. Both of these alternatives will hold up to temperatures much better than even "industrial" VELCRO, particularly if the item is "free dangling."

[DrSpeed]

Might plan on having like a mini-install day. All my tools are up in Bellingham, WA.

 

mclarenf3 may come down, depending on when I commendere the GT from the fiance.

 

More are welcome.

[stocklgt]

Quick tip - unless you have He-Man arms/hands or are severely slammed, usually, you can get more than enough working room by simply cranking the wheel all the way.

 

 

Another tip - it'll be just fine, in more temperate climates as well as if there's something exerting force to hold it in-place, but if not, you'll either want to spend the extra few bucks to look for the 3M VHB-based "SuperLock" strips from RadioShack (if you prefer a "VELCRO"-type setup) or, alternatively, use the 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape. Both of these alternatives will hold up to temperatures much better than even "industrial" VELCRO, particularly if the item is "free dangling."

 

very good point, however i found it easier to just remove the wheel that way the pop-it's are in full view and easy to get to. The placement of the grommet may not be in the way of the wheel when it is fully locked, but this is for those who don't mind spending a little extra time, it is very easy with the right tools, a fish tape or wire hanger and a flashlight.

 

The sender isn't suspended, it is firmly in place with the back "velcro'd" right behind the cluster dimmer. I'm not 100% if it was 3M or not, but i had extra "e-z pass grade" velcro strips laying around which are more than strong enough and hold up to direct sunlight just fine. I haven't been around long but judging by your knowledge you could knock this out in no time. I'm still amazed with how factory this looks, and tried to route the vacuum line with other pre-run wires to keep the stock look.

Edited August 23, 2010 by stocklgt

[BAC5.2]

Another tip - it'll be just fine, in more temperate climates as well as if there's something exerting force to hold it in-place, but if not, you'll either want to spend the extra few bucks to look for the 3M VHB-based "SuperLock" strips from RadioShack (if you prefer a "VELCRO"-type setup) or, alternatively, use the 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape. Both of these alternatives will hold up to temperatures much better than even "industrial" VELCRO, particularly if the item is "free dangling."

 

I zip-tied mine in place. Been fine since I started beta-testing!

[TSiWRX]

^ Zip-Ties FTMFW!!!!!

 

 

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very good point, however i found it easier to just remove the wheel that way the pop-it's are in full view and easy to get to. The placement of the grommet may not be in the way of the wheel when it is fully locked, but this is for those who don't mind spending a little extra time, it is very easy with the right tools, a fish tape or wire hanger and a flashlight.

 

^ Definitely agreed - it's just that some people are somehow afraid of pulling a wheel.

 

To be absolutely honest, I also think that pulling the wheel may take a bit more time in the beginning (and with clean-up), but the whole process will be made much easier and faster.

 

The sender isn't suspended, it is firmly in place with the back "velcro'd" right behind the cluster dimmer. I'm not 100% if it was 3M or not, but i had extra "e-z pass grade" velcro strips laying around which are more than strong enough and hold up to direct sunlight just fine.

 

Ah, the "E-Z Pass grade!" That should definitely be just fine! I've never had those passes, but I'd be surprised if they weren't VHB backed, given that they need to be suspended for long durations in direct-sunlight exposed spots.

 

I haven't been around long but judging by your knowledge you could knock this out in no time.

 

Hey, butt-kissing will get you no-where!

 

You haven't been around long (you just mean here, right?), but your walk-through is done like a pro!

[stocklgt]

^ Zip-Ties FTMFW!!!!!

 

 

----

 

 

 

 

^ Definitely agreed - it's just that some people are somehow afraid of pulling a wheel.

 

To be absolutely honest, I also think that pulling the wheel may take a bit more time in the beginning (and with clean-up), but the whole process will be made much easier and faster.

 

 

 

Ah, the "E-Z Pass grade!" That should definitely be just fine! I've never had those passes, but I'd be surprised if they weren't VHB backed, given that they need to be suspended for long durations in direct-sunlight exposed spots.

 

 

 

Hey, butt-kissing will get you no-where!

 

You haven't been around long (you just mean here, right?), but your walk-through is done like a pro!

 

Haha, I've been a member of nycmaximas.org nycnissans.org and maxima.org for about 4 years and cb7tuner for about 6 years now, and I've always modded my cars, so I know how helpful a write-up can be. It can save quite a bit of labor dues, let alone plenty of time, so if my 20 minutes can save someone else some unnecessary trouble, why not?

The "compilation of cheap or free mods" thread helped me disable the seatbelt chime and drl's within 5 minutes and I'm looking to mod my stock grill and paint my headlights next week. Without those writeups, i'd be hours in the hole trying to figure out how to rewire those stupid drl's!

Edited August 23, 2010 by stocklgt

[toreadorranger]

What vacuum line are you guys running? just the black rubber vac line from napa or something else?

[stocklgt]

What vacuum line are you guys running? just the black rubber vac line from napa or something else?

 

I sourced mine through Autozone, .200 ID if i recall correctly? Vacuum line is vacuum line really, it's the ID and OD you need to pay attention to. If nothing else, get .250" ID and some zip ties and various sizes of T-fittings and mix and match until you find what you need.

The rubber line was made by Goodyear if that helps, the lines are usually behind the counter and you need to ask for them. I bought 15 feet which was more than enough. I should still have some scrap at home i'll take a look at the dimensions. Eventually I plan on getting 1" ID fuel line to sheath the vacuum line in, because I noticed that the vacuum line rubs where I ran it under the hood into the wheel well. This was recommended in one of the earlier pages in this thread as well.

Edited August 23, 2010 by stocklgt

[TSiWRX]

Haha, I've been a member of nycmaximas.org nycnissans.org and maxima.org for about 4 years and cb7tuner for about 6 years now, and I've always modded my cars, so I know how helpful a write-up can be.

 

^ I thought your write up was way too good to be a complete noob's!

 

It can save quite a bit of labor dues, let alone plenty of time, so if my 20 minutes can save someone else some unnecessary trouble, why not?

The "compilation of cheap or free mods" thread helped me disable the seatbelt chime and drl's within 5 minutes and I'm looking to mod my stock grill and paint my headlights next week. Without those writeups, i'd be hours in the hole trying to figure out how to rewire those stupid drl's!

 

^ +1.

 

It's this kind of stuff that really makes a community a community.

[Woodstock]

omg.. i missed it!

[07DGMSpecB]

so why cant there be a pre order for these...i'm tired of not having the internet at work and constantly refreshing my browser when i'm at home to see if I can pick one of these up.

[Chocoholic005]

so why cant there be a pre order for these...i'm tired of not having the internet at work and constantly refreshing my browser when i'm at home to see if I can pick one of these up.

 

Agreed. It would be better to have a pre-order. Fighting to get one or two of these things each week is annoying.

[DrSpeed]

Agreed. It would be better to have a pre-order. Fighting to get one or two of these things each week is annoying.

 

I got a brand new one I'll sell you for $350.

[mclarenf3]

Let the bidding begin. I'll sell mine for $349.99

[DrSpeed]

Let the bidding begin. I'll sell mine for $349.99

 

You're doing it wrong. We want to make money.

 

http://www.priceisrightfail.com/price_r1_c2.png

[snow05gtRI]

You're doing it wrong. We want to make money.

 

http://www.priceisrightfail.com/price_r1_c2.png

 

he's undercutting you to steal the sale

[DrSpeed]

he's undercutting you to steal the sale

 

It's a bad business model.

 

Read: COLLUSION.

[Umass94]

finally success! Confirmed order #51! sweet.

[07DGMSpecB]

#52....wahoo thanks for posting ^^^

[Squiden]

Blast! Already sold out again.