whitetiger Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 ^i too miss my ESP prep LGT on r-comps. *sigh* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Yeah i know how that goes. How do you think i ended up with race tires on my wagon? Think i had 3 sets before the miata presented itself as a better solution. Even so I still harbor delusions of taking it back to the track. Sgt.Gator shows that it's possible. Don't give up your/our dreams of seeing two Subaru wagons competing. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Sgt.Gator shows that it's possible. Don't give up your/our dreams of seeing two Subaru wagons competing. Me too. However Sgt.Gator and I are on opposite ends of the racer budget at the moment. As chief of tech, I could sign off my street car as legal and take it out for a run. All that pesky safety gear is really heavy. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo2 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Any more info of the differential/ dccd swap? I'm looking to do the same. Great build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 (edited) What kind of info are you looking for? You need a full DCCD housing from an early 5MT STI. It bolts right in in place of the stock transfer/extension housing. Only other parts needed are the correct shift arm yoke with a hole for the 1-2 return spring, and the spring that connects it to the front stay bushing retainer plate. Optionally you will need a DCCD controller like the mapDCCD or DCCDPro; without a controller the diff will act as an open diff, which is fine but kind of useless. The torque split is 35:65 vs 50:50 of the stock LGT/OBXT 5MT center diff. I'll post up the relevant P/Ns later along with a trans identification chart produced by Rallispec. Edited December 31, 2015 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 hardest part is finding one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Speaking of which I might have found a spare one at a good price. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo2 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 That's exactly what I'm looking for. Lol if you want to part with the spare let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 Bride seat rails arriving tomorrow. Need to pick up some 3.3ohm resistors to delete the seat air bag. Not sure how I'm going to get around the driver occupant sensor at the moment, need to pull some wiring diagrams. Also need to figure out what I want to do with the dash pad. After nearly a decade of meticulous care the soft touch plastic has gotten all chalky. It cleans up with Aerospace 303 plastic conditioner but has also started getting gooey when it sits out in the sun. Apparently this is a common problem. May wrap the existing dash or just replace it for now and keep the old one for future wrap experimentation. Also need to see if I can get the airbag recall components for DIY install. Otherwise I just need to troubleshoot the rich condition on my break-in map (may be a bad front O2 sensor, or poor calibration for relocation to DP), and pull my DCCD to replace the bearings and clutch pack. Hoping to have everything done in the near future so I can tune and use the damn car come spring time. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted January 7, 2016 I Donated Share Posted January 7, 2016 Bride seat rails arriving tomorrow. Need to pick up some 3.3ohm resistors to delete the seat air bag. Not sure how I'm going to get around the driver occupant sensor at the moment, need to pull some wiring diagrams. Also need to figure out what I want to do with the dash pad. After nearly a decade of meticulous care the soft touch plastic has gotten all chalky. It cleans up with Aerospace 303 plastic conditioner but has also started getting gooey when it sits out in the sun. Apparently this is a common problem. May wrap the existing dash or just replace it for now and keep the old one for future wrap experimentation. Also need to see if I can get the airbag recall components for DIY install. Otherwise I just need to troubleshoot the rich condition on my break-in map (may be a bad front O2 sensor, or poor calibration for relocation to DP), and pull my DCCD to replace the bearings and clutch pack. Hoping to have everything done in the near future so I can tune and use the damn car come spring time. I think the driver occupancy sensor is just a plug underneath the seat. I unplugged mine to not get the chime for autocross while I wore a schroth harness and not the stock 3 point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 What recalibration did you do because you moved it from the header elbow to dp? I've always assumed i'd move it and that was that. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 That's exactly my point - I did not recalibrate at all. My break-in map is my stock ROM with a 4.5k rev limit, zeroed-out WGDC tables, and MAF/MAP/injector scaling so the car will run. I leave ECU calibration to the specialists, but know how to use it for diagnostics. My previous twinscroll setup was tuned by Mike@TA and similarly had the front O2 in the DP bellmouth. However the tune was locked (understandably) so I can't use it for comparison. All I know at the moment is the car runs pig rich, enough to throw a code, and my UEGO confirms what the factory O2 is reporting. This makes me think the O2 sensor is fine, but I haven't dug into it yet. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 you've got a bloush in place? i was about to ask how your coolant and oil lines were routed, but i can't assume they'd be the same as the VF37/36 with a Garret CHRA... trying to get all my ducks lined up for my VF52/37 install. I also wish i had held out for a header/up setup with the welded-on heatshields over the joint. but alas. Just need to source a bracket and choose a DP (with two bungs, otherwise i'd use an OEM pipe and have an extension made). * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Yes - Blouch Dom1.5XTR twinscroll. Oil and coolant are routed just like stock STI, with a small tweak here and there for best fitment. I have my VF37 AVO bellmouth for sale in the classifieds. Will bolt up to the USDM fitment AVO downpipe. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Looks like I never posted that my seats arrived. Picked up a new set of Bride sliding mounts as well (GR fitment bolts right into the BP/BL). Also pulled the trigger on another DAMD steering wheel - round, leather w/ red stitch. Now I am trying to decide on a material/stitch for the new RedlineGoods shift/ebrake/armrest boots. I've always liked the leather boots and could stay with that scheme since the steering wheel maintains the leather/perf up front - maybe just go with red parallel stitch (like the seats) or baseball stitch (more like the steering wheel)? Alternatively I have thought about using Bride material for the accent panel on the boots, or possibly even diamond stitch. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Underdog. I have the black with red stitching redline goods ebrake, shift boot, and center console cover. I put them in almost three years ago and they still look great today. I think it would look excellent next to that fancy wheel and those nice seats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Those seats! Loving that round DAMD wheel, too. I can't get with a flat-bottomed one in our interior, for some reason... liking the diamond stitch but would probably go with baseball to match the wheel, not sure if that would work or not with the mixed materials. Do you have experience with Redline? JPM Coachworks is an option, too. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Thanks guys. Buried in that post I mentioned that I currently have Redline shift/ebrake/armrest boots in black/black perf w/ matching stitch. They've been on the car for over 8 years and still look great. I'm inclined to stay with Redline for the boots on account of familiarity and quality. I agree the flat bottom looks a little out of place on these cars, which is ultimately why I decided to stay with the round wheel. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 i'm probably the worst person to ask, but i'd do the non-baseball stitch in red, if there "must" be red stitching, otherwise i'd stick with what you already have (and if you don't, i'll PM you my address for old leather disposal services. and for you, i'll make the service free, and even pay the shipping). But my taste is to get "performance" without screaming it. * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share Posted March 18, 2016 Thanks for the offer - may end up selling the old DAMD wheel with the black/black boots as a set, or keep them in case I get tired of the look. Most likely depends on whether some other part catches my eye and the bank account status at that time. I did the "understated performance" thing for a while but use the car so infrequently now that I don't mind a little flash. I don't think red stitching is going to be the thing that puts it over the top. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 I'm currently working on a project to characterize the performance of my STI TMIC. The plan is to use an AEM AQ-1 datalogger to monitor the pressure and temperature differential, and tap into the stock MAP sensor signal so I can overlay logs from Romraider with the datalogs from the AQ-1. In the process of laying out all the parts I decided that rather than tap into my MAP wiring harness I'd rather just make a small extension harness and tap into that. I want the test rig to be fully removable after testing the system and any subsequent improvements. Anyways, I found the connector for the STI MAP sensor, and wanted to close the loop on the question Gex had asked earlier in this thread. The harness-side connector is here (also available as a pigtail). The mating piece, which I will use to plug into my engine wiring harness, is here (also available as a pigtail). The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Woah! I spent hours of my life looking for that connector before just buying a complete 07 sti harness. Good find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 I'm currently working on a project to characterize the performance of my STI TMIC. The plan is to use an AEM AQ-1 datalogger to monitor the pressure and temperature differential, and tap into the stock MAP sensor signal so I can overlay logs from Romraider with the datalogs from the AQ-1. UD, If you have any questions about the AQ-1 I used one for our SAE team the last couple of years before we upgraded to an AIM EVO5. Definitely a good choice for the application. -Clinton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 Gex said: Woah! I spent hours of my life looking for that connector before just buying a complete 07 sti harness. Good find. Thanks man - Ballenger has a great selection and I love that you can get pigtail versions of most of the connectors, for those times when you don't have the correct crimp tool. bettner12 said: UD, If you have any questions about the AQ-1 I used one for our SAE team the last couple of years before we upgraded to an AIM EVO5. Definitely a good choice for the application. -Clinton Will do. Still waiting for the AQ-1 to arrive so I can start messing with sensor configs. I have a 240W 12VDC benchtop power supply so I can test everything out before install. Aside from tapping the MAP sensor signal, I am going to use a Setra 230 differential pressure sensor and two exposed-element class A 100 ohm thin film RTDs potted into NPT plugs for air measurement. I can overlay this with the ambient air temp and MAF readings from the ECU to get a good idea of the IC efficiency. If only I had the MY08+ with CAN I could use the new AQ-1 with the CAN OBD2 interface, and get all the ECU parameters easily. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bettner12 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Will do. Still waiting for the AQ-1 to arrive so I can start messing with sensor configs. I have a 240W 12VDC benchtop power supply so I can test everything out before install. Aside from tapping the MAP sensor signal, I am going to use a Setra 230 differential pressure sensor and two exposed-element class A 100 ohm thin film RTDs potted into NPT plugs for air measurement. I can overlay this with the ambient air temp and MAF readings from the ECU to get a good idea of the IC efficiency. If only I had the MY08+ with CAN I could use the new AQ-1 with the CAN OBD2 interface, and get all the ECU parameters easily. I know it's elementary, but make sure you fuse the power input to the logger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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