Underdog's '06 GRP Sedan 5MT

[LegGTLT]

Pics of the STI sill plates? Pricing you were able to get and where? Looking to do some fun little things and these popped up in my search.

[No DRFT]

Beautiful car!

[Underdog]

 

Haven't had a chance to grab good pics yet, so here's a teaser.

 

 

 

[LegGTLT]

Almost a year later... but I give you props for answering still. :lol:

[Underdog]

Bilstein BSS Coilovers

Recently returned from an epic three week vacation in Japan. My wife and I went snowboarding on Mt. Niseko Annupuri in Hokkaido, ate at the Sopporo Beer Garden in Hakodate, rode the bullet train to Tokyo where we spent a week seeing all the sights, and continued on for another week in Kyoto. Absolutely stunning trip and I can't wait to go back some day to continue on southward from where we left off. Of course while in Tokyo I had to stop by Super Autobacs and pick up a set of Bilstein coilovers to carry home in my luggage! Seeing as how they aren't sold state-side, it seemed easier this way than dealing with an importer, however customs did give me a bit of a hassle coming through JFK on the way home.

Anyways, they did make it home eventually and here they are! Absolutely fantastic setup - they don't have rebound adjustment but are so well matched for my kind of driving they really don't need it. I installed them with Group.N top mounts and set the ride height to match my setup on the RCE Tarmacs. Another bonus is that Bilstein US should be able to rebuild them for me when they need it, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.

The part number is BSS6023J and they have the following spring rates: 60N/mm, R: 80N/mm.

Please excuse the rusty rotors and suspension bits. The rotors came with the Brembo swap and already had some mileage on them, and as a daily driver in a snowy part of New England, everything has seen a lot of salt over the past few years. However I am planning to get another car to daily in the near future and have plans to refresh most of the suspension and drivetrain to keep it in good condition for many years.

[Underdog]

Needed to grab something from the car just now and figured I'd grab a quick pic of the interior, since I don't have any recent ones. Will try to get some with better lighting and the freaking side sills.

 

 

[Lanaue]

Absolutely Beautiful!! I love it.

[Underdog]

AP Suretrac R160 Install

Got the rear diff removed this weekend so I can swap in the Suretrac R160 (27022AA010) from the V5-V6 JDM STI, that I bought recently from whitetiger. It came installed in a new(ish) case and already had the correct ring & pinion gearing. I needed to order a new oil seal for the Suretrac, because one looks a bit iffy, but otherwise it's mint.

 

Undercarriage with CBE & Stock Diff Removed

 

New R160 with AP Suretrac differential (top) and OEM R160 with viscous LSD (bottom). The Suretrac R160 is fitted with an aluminum Spec.B differential cradle, and will be installed with Whiteline KDT903 Diff Cradle Inserts.

 

Here is some technical information on the AP Suretrac that I am cross-posting from the Differential FAQ thread:

On 9/13/2012 at 12:49 PM, Underdog said:

After a fair amount of searching I was able to find some real literature on the AP Racing Suretrac differential, which I just bought off Whitetiger. It is an interesting design for sure, and I've attached some images that I plucked from the mycaterham.com website to show off the cool internal geometry of the face cams and followers.

From reading the literature it does seem to me that this will act as an open differential when one wheel is in a near-zero traction condition (lifts a wheel or on glare ice) and during turns where there is little input torque. However, in power-on turns, the torque going into the differential will 'preferentially' go to the wheel that is slower (more grip) and act as a brake to the wheel that is slipping. The amount of torque transfer is a function of the friction between the cam and followers, which is directly proportional to the input torque. This means that the differential responds to how much torque you are sending through it, and not the speed differential between the left and right wheels (like the OEM viscous unit does).

Pretty cool stuff.

 

[coldsubycz]

Hope you don't mind me asking this in your build thread, but where did you pickup your Suretrac R160 and did it really come with the Spec.b aluminum dif member?

 

Looks like you have installed Whiteline KDT903 rear dif inserts. Why not do the Whiteline KDT906 rear dif mount bushings since it's all out? (Pressing out the old and pressing in the new??)

 

Now you need to install the front dif for the 5MT! I had that put in last year before winter. I'll tell you, one of my most favorite mods. Completely transformed the car. Regular driving, feels just like stock. Pushing it hard in the corners, thing feels like a true AWD car. It just pulls the front out of the corners and snaps everything back into alignment. It feels like it takes away all understeer and oversteer, truely amazing. And I still am on my OEM suspension!

[Underdog]

I bought the Suretrac from Whitetiger, who bought it from a guy on NASIOC. It was installed into a new R160 housing with all new bearings and seals. As it is from the JDM V5/V6 STI (as well as some older models) it is not impossible to get, but is becoming increasingly rare. So far it is completely transparent compared to the stock viscous-type rear LSD in normal driving, but I have yet to take the car on any low friction surfaces. When pushing the car a bit I do notice that the progressive (slow) lock-up that is typical of the VLSD is gone, and the rear tires never spin. Of course I am talking about street driving and with very good tires, so I'm not talking about motorsport level use.

The aluminum diff member did not come with the diff, I purchased it from FBP. I am a sucker for OEM+ parts, which is why I switched over to full Spec.B suspension links. The benefit of the aluminum crossmember has to be on the order of 0.1-0.2% reduction in overall bodyweight, and that is being generous. However, I like to replace old parts with shiny new ones, especially when the new ones won't rust.

I went with the KDT903 inserts for a couple reasons. 1) Simplicity and diminishing return; 2) pressing out the OEM bushings can damage the aluminum, and not having a hydraulic press I would need to rely on someone else to do it right, which I have a hard time doing; and 3) I plan on dropping the entire subframe next spring/summer to do an overhaul and rust-proofing, at which point I will replace all the bushings.

The front diff is next. I already put the feelers out to Rallispec and hope to do the install over the winter, when I'm not driving Underdog much anyways.

[SBT]

So bumping this for an update.

[Underdog]

Torsen Front Diff & 5MT DCCD Install

This past January I installed the Torsen front differential from the V4-V6 JDM STi RA, which I purchased from Rallispec. I also chanced upon a 5MT DCCD unit (38913AA070, from Transmission Code #TY752VB5CA) from the V2-V6 Type R/RA & 22B being sold on NASIOC - this has a 35:65 torque split and will be controlled by a MapDCCD controller.

 

First I had to strip the transmission down and thoroughly clean everything.

 

I swapped my ring gear over to the new diff and checked the setup. Backlash came in right at .005" and the contact pattern looks good. Decided to keep the drive pinion shims as is (0.6mm thick vs. the 0.45mm indicated by the tool) to avoid overlapping patterns, as this R&P has 87,000 miles on it. Thanks to Dave@Rallispec for the sanity check on that.

 

With setup complete I reassembled the gearbox and installed a set of Moore Performance Blast Plates. This was a "while you're in there" mod, and not something I really think I need for the way I drive the car or the power levels I'm shooting for. Then it was on to cleaning and test fitting the DCCD section.

 

With everything looking good the final steps were installing a a new pc'd shifter arm and re-terminating the wires to the center diff. Then it was on to assembling the pc'd transmission cradle with Grp.N bushings and transmission mount, and getting the whole thing installed in the car.

 

Still to do: the yoke on the shifter arm will need to be swapped due to an external return spring that was used on the DCCD models, but was not present on my Legacy since it is now incorporated into the viscous center diff housings. (edit: I did eventually get around to this - pic here.)

The MapDCCD module is wired into the car with temporary spade connections for testing. I'll go back at a some point and re-terminate the wiring with Molex connectors to make it easier to work on, or remove to access other parts behind the dash. I'll post up the connection chart and my current maps at some point too.

[Underdog]

MY15+ STI Steering Rack Install

The '15+ STI rack has a quicker ratio (13:1, ~2.4 turns lock-to-lock) as compared to the BP/BL LGT/Spec.B (15:1, ~2.8 turns lock-to-lock). The quicker ratio increases steering response - i.e. less input at the steering wheel for equivalent angle at the front wheels - and also increases steering heft. This makes for a very noticeable improvement in steering feel. The only time I would not recommend this is for users who want the car set up as more of a grand touring highway cruiser - not to say the rack is problematic for highway use, but it is much more direct and engaging than the stock rack. I made a separate thread on the swap which can be found here: Underdog Motorsports - 2015 STI Steering Rack Swap

My rack was installed with Cusco braces (692 026 ALHD) and Whiteline rack bushings (KS207). I also had my subframe powdercoated and freshened up my Whiteline KCA313 tie rods while I was in here.

[Underdog]

Engine Build, STI Swap, and Dom1.5XTR Twinscroll

My previous setup was a stock engine with the twinscroll setup off the JDM Legacy (TD04HLA-19T with a TMIC similar to ours) which was great for instant boost, but very much felt like a "stage 2" setup in that the torque fell off rapidly in the later midrange. I decided to sell that turbo setup and engine, and put together a new configuration that would trade-off some low-end grunt for a stronger midrange and top end.

The design parameters for this project are:

93 octane - due to the lack of e85 within a reasonable distance, and wanting to avoid the extra complications of WMI, I will be sticking with 93 octane. With a stock(ish) compression ratio, this will limit me to 20-21PSI.

TMIC - for simplicity sake I will be using a TMIC setup. Having worked on plenty of cars with FMICs, I do not care for the charge pipe routing in our engine bays, nor the extra leak points.

STI Intake Manifold Swap - Due to current product offerings, switching to the STI manifold will offer a wider selection of turbos (and top mounts). While Legacy/WRX fitment items are sure to continue rolling out, the STI market is well established and should provide few additional challenges for the swap. (edit: I add more detail about the STI manifold swap here.)

Turbo - With the above constraints in mind I have chosen the Blouch Dominator 1.5XTR twinscroll. I'll run this with the JDM VF37-style exhaust manifold and a downpipe custom fabricated by Moore Performance.

With all that in mind I set about preparing the short block. I am using a new EJ257 block with the nitrided crank. I am using OEM rods, King XPG bearings, and Wiseco 99.75 pistons with Swaintech gold coat on the crown. A KillerB pickup & baffle, Cometic .027" head gaskets, and ARP studs round out the bottom end.

 

The heads are a low mileage set of B25s, on which I did a light cleanup of the bowls and runners with a port & polish kit. Basically blending the transition from the valve seat to the head casting, as well as removing any flash from the runners. Then I dropped off the heads for a valve job, decking, and lash adjustment with a new set of Tomei Poncams. After that was done I sent the heads off to Swaintech to have thermal barrier coating (TBC) applied to the chambers and runners.

Before cleanup...

 

After cleanup

 

After Swaintech TBC application

 

Poncams installed. I use Joe Gibbs assembly lube when putting engines together.

 

With the longblock assembled I flipped it over and installed the oil pan and test fit the header (I had previously cleaned up the header heatshields and painted them with a silver header paint - pics here). Then I removed the header and put DEI reflect-a-gold where the manifold 4-2 merge occurs. Then I installed a new OEM oil pump and water pump.

 

Now for the install of the oil cooler & sensor sandwich plate, timing belt components, valve covers, rear t-belt covers, water pipes, breather balance pipes, dipstick tube, oil fill neck, AVCS lines, exhaust manifold, up pipe.

 

Turbo, cam sprockets, timing belt, and intake manifold get it installed next.

Lastly it all gets buttoned up with the timing belt covers, GS crank pulley, and an ACT HD clutch on a SMFW (machine shop lightly resurfaced, and balanced the FW and pressure plate with the rotating assembly - hence the grey witness mark).

 

With the engine all together I went ahead primed it with a few quarts of Gibbs break-in oil, while checking for leaks. Then it was on to install. 

 

Before we look under the car, here are the parts. Spare set of Spec.B arms with new Whiteline bushings, and my Hotchkis swaybars and Cusco bracing all powdercoated royal blue. The downpipe is a custom piece made by Moore Performance. I polished the Cobb CBE and it looks better than new (before and after pics here).

 

Okay we were jumping ahead a bit there... here's the engine in place, from underneath.

 

Final few details. Here is the new dw65c pump going in a new filter housing, and the new fuel lines I made up using the pre-'07 STI fuel pressure regulator. You can also see the sensor for the AEM fuel pressure gauge.

 

Here you can see the E1->E2 extension harness (zip tied to the brake lines) I made to merge all the engine harness connections into the large E2 connector.

 

Front O2 and UEGO Bosch O2 sensor installed in DP.

 

Installed! The intake is a Cobb SF in 08-14 STI fitment. It takes the STI MAF which has a bit more headroom than the LGT MAF. The new MAF has a unique connector so I bought a connector & pigtail from Ballenger and soldered it in. Also note the change in mounting pattern and o-ring boss diameter - you can't install the STI MAF in an LGT housing, but the STI SF Intake and airbox fits our car just fine.

 

And done! Warmed up for 20 minutes and then changed the oil and put a fresh filter on it. Will drive it 100 miles on the break-in map and then change the oil and filter again. I'll be sure to update once it's broken-in and tuned.

 

 

[Underdog]

Battery Relocation & Accessory Fuse Box

With the addition of the MapDCCD, AEM UEGO & fuel pressure gauges, and my Morimoto headlight ballasts, I wanted to add an accessory fuse box rather than keep tapping off the battery lug with add-a-circuits. I looked for a suitable place behind the driver side fog light but really wanted something more accessible without having to pull the bumper cover. In the end I decided to relocate my battery to a sealed box in the trunk, and put the new fuse box in the battery's original location. This would also give me an opportunity to upgrade the wiring to the starter and alternator.

Here are the materials I will be using. For wiring I am using 1/0 SGX for the main feed and ground off the battery, 4ga SGX for the starter and alternator feeds and ground, and GXL wire in 12ga for the headlight ballasts and 20ga for everything else. The fuse/relay panel is a Bussman 15303-2-2-4. Main power connections will be via crimped ring terminals and battery lugs. Connections will be made via Metri-pack 280 series connectors and terminals, which are sealed and suitable for the engine bay environment. I went with the 280 over the 150 series because the terminals can handle the higher amperage that my headlight ballasts need. Ideally I would have only used the 280 on the ballast connections and 150 everywhere else but the commonality made things a little easier.

In the pic you will also see the 3/8 studs that I used as a distribution point for the main power, as well as the Scoshe ANL fuse holder that will have the 200A fuse at the battery.

 

First I needed to prep the spot to mount the Moroso sealed battery box. I decided on the center of the spare tire well since the spare doesn't fit over my Brembos anyways. It seemed like an ideal location, but I would need to remove the centering lug by chipping away the deadening material and drilling out the spot welds. Then I sealed the holes with RTV and some aluminum flashing, and built the area up with some MLV sheets I had from attempting to sound insulate my doors. Then I installed the battery box by drilling two holes through the trunk floor and putting in the threaded rods using nylock nuts and large fender washers from below the car, and washers and nuts inside the bottom of the box. (edit: I go back later and make it so that the nuts are underneath the box, so the entire box can be removed off the studs when the battery bracket is taken off. )

 

Here you can see I've riveted the ANL fuse holder to the bracket which holds down the battery, and wrapped the heads of the rivet with some thick electrical tape to prevent an accidental short. Once installed on the battery I made a 1/0 jumper from the battery to one side of the fuse; the 1/0 main runs off the other side and exits on the driver-side. The negative cable is in for mockup but ends up exiting to the driver-side, as you'll see in some other pics below. The vent tube for the box is routed to a convenient grommet in the floor, just aft of the battery box. (edit: Years later I change around the wiring slightly to make replacing the battery easier. There is a pic and some explanation of those changes here.)

 

Here you can see the routing of the main power and ground, as well as the feed for the FPCM modification I did. This is the only circuit that gets an add-a-fuse, which is tapped directly off the fuse holder in the battery box. The other pics are the routing of the power feed along the driver side rail and out through the footwell grommet.

 

Here is the accessory fuse box being wired and installed. (edit: I go back later and clean this up by painting the box and making an ABS shelf for the box to sit on. I also merge the Metripack connectors into 2/3/4-way housings rather than all 1-way connections. That update can be found here.)

 

I added capacitors right before the connection to each headlight ballast to prevent flicker when the starter is cranking. The new wires are routed under the radiator supports with the factory original wiring.

 

Triggers for the accessory fuse box relays. I'd like to go back at some point and replace the quick taps with solder, but it works for prototyping. There is one IGN trigger, and an individual trigger for each headlight ballast. I don't know why but Subaru controls each headlight individually - could have simplified it to one, but was easy enough to just keep it like they had it.

 

The wiring to the MapDCCD and AEM gauges followed the main power cable back through the driver footwell grommet. With all that done I terminated the wires, installed the box, and made the connections. Done! (for now...)

[LegGTLT]

Holy thread bump!!! I saw this notice and was like wuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut???

[boxkita]

Omg! Those parts!

[MTBwrench]

Holy twinscroll!!!

[Underdog]

Aside from the TMIC test and possible meth/e85 upgrade in the future, I am scouting new wheels and seats, and a few more subtle JDM exterior pieces. 88k miles and looks/drives better than new. It is a bit loud, but I am 10 years older than when I started this process.

[MTBwrench]

JDM legacy STi wheels would look amazing, I'll bet. While You're on the JDM parts finding kick

[boxkita]

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=215064&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1440172119

 

what's the gold-ish part in the middle? Looks like oil pan?

[Underdog]

Yes, DEI reflective gold tape where the header is closest to the oil pan. There is also a fumoto valve with a rubber cap clamped on the nipple. Makes for quick oil changes through the access hole in the GTspec under tray.

MTB - The JDM BBSs are hot, but I prefer a less busy spoke pattern. Also, I got your PM and will get back to you soon on those parts.

[Zac88]

Hhhnnnnggggggg

[Underdog]

Ordered a GS LGT TMIC splitter today to adapt or use as a basis for designing a new splitter to work with the STI TMIC and LGT hood/scoop.

 

Otherwise I need to get some miles on it before I pull the center diff in a few weeks to replace a couple bearings. Should have done it first time around - oh well. Will have Rallispec open the DCCD itself and replace the clutch pack. Also need to install the 1-2 return spring on the shifter linkage.

[Max Capacity]

Very nice job so far.

Big thumbs UP