coldsubycz

I'm in for this kit if it will work on an '05 LGT. I e-mailed Cobb last month and they replied a week later and basically said "no". But that was one customer service rep. I've been running e85 for 4 years now in MN summers and winters. Having flex fuel would simplify things. If you've never run e85, it's a transformation liquid, lots of fun. Code, I have an AVO380 and AVO FMIC with e85. Just to give you a power difference idea: my car stock on a very, very LOW reading dyno was 185whp and 205wtq. Tuned for e85 I get 335whp and 360wtq.

Turkeylord... holy cow! That was an awesome write up! I wish I would have had that when I did my install last year. Your craftsmanship is above and beyond! If you want to use the drawings I did a few posts up in your write up, go ahead. And if you are coming down by the Twin Cities I'd like you to redo my wiring because yours is so good . Again, thanks for the awesome write up!

Between taking care of the kids today and studying this thread here are some diagrams I drew. I not good with computer drawing programs. The first diagram is for someone just getting into this. The second is optional for someone like me that did the old way of wiring. The third diagram is my current install for comparison. Please review the first "2013 FPCM wiring" diagram to make sure I have it correct.

^ So do you think the NASIOC guys/gals would be laughing at this thread because for them this is "old hat" ?

Just so I can clear this up in my head: You used this MK3 fuse and installed that "plug-n-play" in the fuse box under the hood instead of cutting the wire up by the alternator and installing a diode? If my thinking is correct, which fuse did you replace in the fuse box? (I'm sure I can figure it out, just being lazy, but also want to verify! ) Thanks again for all this work!

I have the same pump that you do. My tuner said the same thing that yours did. My tuner said that my system was running fine, but it seemed that the pump was not "giving it's all". I did the upgraded wiring, albeit last years design and all my fueling issues on e85 went away.

The STI fpcm is "better" than the Legacy fpcm. If you just swap the Legacy fpcm to the STI fpcm there is a "slight" increase in voltage if everything is left stock. Upgrading the wiring and running power from the battery and either running it thru the new STI fpcm or direct to the pump is the only way to up the voltage. I upgraded all my wiring to 10g and used a new relay to run power thru the "new" STI fpcm. But that was soooooo last year . If I was running a larger pump than the DW65c I'd run the wiring like the guys are doing now. If I have time today I'm going to draw out the new wiring to compare with the way I did it.

I'm the guy from (Page 13, Post# 192). A lot has happened/been discussed over the past year since I've done the "original" mod. So like I've said been running my setup for 1 year now with a DW65c/STI FPCM with no problems. Mine is running full power THRU the FPCM. So after reading the rest of this thread I should change my setup to gain direct voltage to the pump AND prevent the FPCM from burning out? Is that correct? OR should I just leave it alone? I wouldn't need to retune after doing this, would I?

I've been running my 04 STI FPCM re-wire project now with e85 (e70 right now) for about 4 months and is working great. Granted I don't drive the car everyday. My tuner was really shocked that my car's fueling problems went away after this mod. So I'm very grateful for this thread! I'm running a DW65c so I'm not pulling the amps that some of the bigger fuel pumps would pull. So I don't think I'm over taxing the FPCM.

I too would like to know as I'm looking at the 5500. Your install looks really nice! You worked the gaps nicely. On a weird side note I'm also in MN and my tuner's name is Shane

^ I might as well say it first.... Any pictures?? Would love to see how well you matched everything up. So you didn't have to over drill any of the screw mounting holes?

Hope you don't mind me asking this in your build thread, but where did you pickup your Suretrac R160 and did it really come with the Spec.b aluminum dif member? Looks like you have installed Whiteline KDT903 rear dif inserts. Why not do the Whiteline KDT906 rear dif mount bushings since it's all out? (Pressing out the old and pressing in the new??) Now you need to install the front dif for the 5MT! I had that put in last year before winter. I'll tell you, one of my most favorite mods. Completely transformed the car. Regular driving, feels just like stock. Pushing it hard in the corners, thing feels like a true AWD car. It just pulls the front out of the corners and snaps everything back into alignment. It feels like it takes away all understeer and oversteer, truely amazing. And I still am on my OEM suspension!

How difficult would this be for someone who has never used this before? I used to make R/C airplanes many, many years ago and used Monocoat for the wings and body. I was okay using that, but not perfect. I like this 3M stuff that you used as it looks like it would hold up to scratches better than paint. Thanks for the link to the dark matte finish! Your install looks awesome!

Sorry to bring this back up.... But.... did you ever post up the brand and color code you used? I'm sure I can figure a color close to yours, but I really, really like the color you used! Plus it has just the right "flatness" to the shine. Not to shiny not to dull.

My 91pump tune was done before I did the STI FPCM mod. I use an APv2 so this will be the first time I will be running my 91pump tune with the newly installed STI FPCM. To clarify I will re-flash with my AP to my pump tune/map. I will not be putting 91 octane in my tank and running my e85 tune/map.

I'll be switching back to my 91pump tune here in a few weeks from e85. I'll let you know what transpires. My tuner says I should have no issues, mabye run a little rich at worst. Before I say anything concrete I would like to make the switch and log.

Aracheon, did you ever get your issues resolved?

Not sure if I'm searching with the correct words to answer my question, but I can't seem to find an answer. I currently have an AP v2b installed on my car by my tuner who has a pump map and e85 map stored on it. Let's say my tuner stored both maps in AccessTUNER Pro (ATP) format which would mean they are locked, which is fine. I would like to install AccessTUNER Race (ATR), but would like to still use my tuners maps on my car. All I would like to do is data log with my Zeitronix ZT-2 WBO2 which I can do through ATR. But, can I "re-flash" my tuner's ATP maps back onto my car after I install ATR? I would eventually also like to do an e-tune through Infamous1 which is why I would like to log the ZT-2 through ATR. That way I can send him one file with the WB02 already on it instead of doing two files with the WB02 on a second file through my Zeitronix's logging software.

^cool. I think I'll stay at 90% if you are at 92% with a built motor. I'll post up some numbers when I get them. But don't get to excited. The dyno I get tuned on is the lowest reading dyno in the country .

^Ooops... I thought you were at 97%?

I'm a happy guy right now! Just got a message from my tuner tonight: "Well at 6000RPMs, instead of it leaning out to 12.8:1 AFR, I now am at 11.2:1 AFR and the fuel pressure is holding steady where it should be. What power range are we shooting for and how much injector duty cycle do you want to have left for a safety buffer?" I was so worried that my fuel pump was not sealed correctly, but my "little" wiring project worked. Now, do I go 95% IDC or keep it around 85% for safety. (I have ID1000's)(running e85).

Cool! I should have read your previous post better as I could have figured out that you cut/spliced. That's good that they use the 14'ish gauge wire. I still can't believe they use 18 for our car. But why would they, they don't plan on people modify their cars and 18 awg is usually cheaper then 10. Sorry about the stupid questions, but what step-down butt splice did you use for the +/- FP wires? Any if anyone wants to know on Subaruparts.com that harness cost roughly $49.

Thanks for that part number! In the future I think I'm going to do that as my solder job, 10awg to 18awg is not so good. It's a solid connection just looks really bad. When I first got that STI FPCM and saw the gauge wire the STI uses I was thinking "those lucky bast@#$" . And the use 10awg is over kill to the fuel pump, but it looks bad a$$! So did you just splice all the FP wires onto the new Impreza wires? Because if that is the whole wire harness, doesn't that have wires that go all over the backseat, trunk and up to the front of the car?

Glad to be of help! All the guys on here helped me out a lot too! Let us know what happens after you use the scope. I've been meaning to ask you this: How did you connect your 10awg wire to the fuel pump? Did you splice in like me or were you able to solder onto the pins?

I used an inexpensive unit off of Amazon, Mastech digital Multimeter MS8268. Oh no I don't want you to return it to "stock" just take the "87" cable out of the "new" relay and temporarly connect it to the "85" wire "Yellow = signal from fuel pump relay". That way the FPCM is getting its power direct like stock. In essence you are just removing the "new" relay from the equation to see if the FPCM acts like it did before the rewire.