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poll: What oil are you using and what change interval?


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In conclusion: buy whatever oil that make you happy, and run it till it turns into solid*

 

I still change when oil when it starts to tastes bad...

 

After further consideration, I've decided to run my oil until it turns into a bad tasting solid:

 

http://www.tomsandersonphotography.com/VANOS/_MG_2324.jpg

 

Taken from:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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After further consideration, I've decided to run my oil until it turns into a bad tasting solid:

 

 

Taken from:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

 

Had to be NoVa!

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I'm new here...but I'll chime in anyway...

 

Just did my oil change today...

 

I chose Amsoil 5w-30 XL, EAO20 Oil filter and a can of Amsoil engine flush...

 

I just bought the car so I don't know what was in it before...but...it wasn't very nice lookin comin out lol..

 

I'll send a sample into the lab in about 10k or so and see what's going on.

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After further consideration, I've decided to run my oil until it turns into a bad tasting solid:

 

http://www.tomsandersonphotography.com/VANOS/_MG_2324.jpg

 

Taken from:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

 

GODDA** someone took my comment seriously :eek::eek::eek:

 

anyway: bimmer dealers are all crazy, they told their customer to do 15k miles OCI, I guess this is the result :confused::confused::confused:

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Lots of new cars are going with longer oci's. I use to have an 07 benz that had a 10k oci. They can do this for a number of reasons:

-Larger oil sumps, upwards of 6 quarts.

-Require a quality synthetic oil

 

The oils have to meet certain specs depending on the vehicle manufacturer, such as ACEA A3/B3, A5/B5, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5

 

-They have oil coolers to extend the life of the motor oil

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Lots of new cars are going with longer oci's. I use to have an 07 benz that had a 10k oci. They can do this for a number of reasons:

-Larger oil sumps, upwards of 6 quarts.

-Require a quality synthetic oil

The oils have to meet certain specs depending on the vehicle manufacturer, such as ACEA A3/B3, A5/B5, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5

-They have oil coolers to extend the life of the motor oil

 

I know. Thats what dealers explained to their customers. Heck, if u have enuf cash to pay for 40, 50 grands car what hurts you to change your oil at 5k interval (say 50, 60 bucks). I found many ppl complain sludge in their bimmer.

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GC and Tokyo Rokis every 4K-5K miles. I may be giving up some life in the oil, but I can afford it and it makes me feel better.

 

The tough part is going to be when my Tokyo Roki stock runs out.

 

+1

 

hey, what is Kokyo Roki? :eek: new brand of oil?

 

edit: oh, it's a filter.. how was it? I've been using K&N all the time.

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+1

 

hey, what is Kokyo Roki? :eek: new brand of oil?

 

edit: oh, it's a filter.. how was it? I've been using K&N all the time.

 

Those are the black oem ones(with japanese writing) before subaru went shamwow on us with the blue ones.

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Those are the black oem ones(with japanese writing) before subaru went shamwow on us with the blue ones.

 

Oh, they are:eek:? I only notice "Made in Japan" writing on the filter. Too bad, subaru downgraded their filter... Any source or website to buy the roki?:confused:

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Oh, they are:eek:? I only notice "Made in Japan" writing on the filter. Too bad, subaru downgraded their filter... Any source or website to buy the roki?:confused:

 

Not sure there is a place that has em and want to part ways with.

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~Initially: Dealer change dino oil (5W-30) @ 3k and 6k.

~Now: German Castrol, 0W-30, NAPA Gold 1334 (oversized WIX/Dana) @ 3750 to satisfy the warranty gods.

~Next change gets the Fumoto valve installed.

 

Got that, get the nipple one.

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I just came from the dealership and had my oil changed, at 12500 with Quaker State 10w-30,

 

but the thing is, I am the 2nd owner, and the 1st owner had it changed twice with mobil 1 0w-40 at 3700 and 7500, but he was up in Nebraska,

 

and I am down in houston, Texas.

 

I was told by the maintenance guy that in the very hot weather, it's not a good idea to run 0w-40, and that 10w-30 at 3750 intervals is the best way to go.

 

What does everybody think here?

 

How does that make any sense? You should look for advice elsewhere. Usually, in warmer temperatures and for track use it is perfectly fine to use higher weight oils like 0w-40.

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http://www.tomsandersonphotography.com/VANOS/_MG_2324.jpg

 

 

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1281659

 

 

FYI, that's from a BMW inline six that ran dino oil for supposedly ~60k between oil changes. Apparently, the car ran fantastic after simply cleaning it out thoroughly and putting some fresh synthetic into it.

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^ That's why I provided that link, so people can get the full story. :)

 

I'm amazed at how durable BMWs are, and how fragile LGTs are! :lol:;) It's no wonder rao never drives his LGT any more. It's really too bad that I didn't get teh SpecB, 'cause my car's just a regular LGT, I can't see putting it up as a garage queen.

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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How does that make any sense? You should look for advice elsewhere. Usually, in warmer temperatures and for track use it is perfectly fine to use higher weight oils like 0w-40.

0w40

0 stands for weight: helps cold start in the morning, oil flows better (more pressure)

40 stands for viscosity. (more viscosity = more protection and less mpg)

 

0w40 is the best among mobil 1 product and it is designed to used in any temperature!

 

I wont pour anything 10 weight into my crank case, even in summer

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I used 15w50 in my LGT down to 40 degrees. Fantastic oil. UOA showed no measurable difference in metals in the oil after 3500 miles with it.

 

More viscosity does not equal more protection. It TYPICALLY equals a greater resistance to break down under high heat and pressure. This is not the equivalent of greater protection under 99% of circumstances.

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I used 15w50 in my LGT down to 40 degrees. Fantastic oil. UOA showed no measurable difference in metals in the oil after 3500 miles with it.

 

More viscosity does not equal more protection. It TYPICALLY equals a greater resistance to break down under high heat and pressure. This is not the equivalent of greater protection under 99% of circumstances.

 

Great, but did you monitor your oil pressure?

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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0w40

0 stands for weight: helps cold start in the morning, oil flows better (more pressure)

40 stands for viscosity. (more viscosity = more protection and less mpg)

 

0w40 is the best among mobil 1 product and it is designed to used in any temperature!

 

I wont pour anything 10 weight into my crank case, even in summer

 

Don't both stand as weights, which are representations of viscosity?

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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No, 20w50 is the high end for severe service. And, of course, Subaru's famous TSB for the oil change interval recognized that the Subaru turbo engine operates under and should be treated as a severe service vehicle with shortened OCIs, etc.

 

Also, according to that, you can run a straight 40 viscosity :)

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