ClimberDHexMods Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 No, 20w50 is the high end for severe service. And, of course, Subaru's famous TSB for the oil change interval recognized that the Subaru turbo engine operates under and should be treated as a severe service vehicle with shortened OCIs, etc. Also, according to that, you can run a straight 40 viscosity Thank you for the information, I had completely missed that before. Is this not in the owner's manual? I would check mine--again--if not out of the state. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-lo Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I'm using Castrol GTX high mileage oil and changing every 3k. got 134k on it now. 258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bannonjr Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Don't both stand as weights, which are representations of viscosity? In a sense ya... W is for "winter" ...cold if you will...basically how the oil acts is at startup vs at operating temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Castrol GTX 5w30 every 3500 miles. On my last subaru black filter, next change will get a K&N filter... just bought four of them to get me through the year. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 any of you use Eneos yet? I only heard good thing about this oil (It is used by Honda F1 racing team, Japan Orange Team...) If you do, please post up UOA if possible I'm using GC right now, 90C operating temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Thank you for the information, I had completely missed that before. Is this not in the owner's manual? I would check mine--again--if not out of the state. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2265204/Subaru-LegacyOutback-2008-Owners-Manual Here's a full owner's manual for ya.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 It's on page 11-13. Here are the appropriate grades for severe service: SAE 30 or 40, 10w50, 20w40, or 20w50 For regular service under suitable temperatures, 5w30, 10w30, an 10w40 are recommended. Subaru states: "Severe Driving Conditions will require the oil change interval to be increased to 3,750 miles or 3.75 months. New for 2008: All turbocharged models are considered to be operated under severe driving conditions and require the oil interval of 3,750 miles or 3.75 months." I interpret this as also being regularly suitable for an appropriate higher viscosity oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 30 and 40 stupid question. If it doesn't say Racing like the red redline bottles, it still has the normal detergent additives? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I'm not 100% sure honestly....I never see them or examine them at all. I do know that it's incredibly hard to find a true SAE 30 or 40....most really act like 10w30 and 10w40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Pennzoil has straight weight oil available. We use to dump straight 50 weight in the old audi so that it would leak everywhere a little less I could get it at any gas station IIRC, and I did. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bannonjr Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Here's some info , thought I'd share incase it hasn't been around yet ..(if it's a repost...sorry) it's what I go by in the Amsoil product guide. Engine Oil Grade 1......API*SUBARU TURBO SPECIAL MESSAGE:Subaru has published Service Bulletin # 02-103-07 that identifies a factory design related problem with premature clogging of the oil mesh screen located inside the oiling system that supplies the turbo charger on all model turbo charged cars. A clogged screen will result in oil starvation and turbo charger failure. Subaru has reduced their recommended oil drain interval in half, as a solution, from 7,500 miles to 3,750 miles (3-3/4 months) and requires the oil mesh screen to be inspected, and possibly serviced, at every oil change. With this Subaru factory related design issue, AMSOIL INC. therefore must recommend customers follow the new Subaru oil change interval of 3,750 miles or 3-3/4 months until Subaru resolves this issue. Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT) SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT) XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT) Above -4F......10w-30, 10w-40 All TEMPS......5W-30 [1]Manual Transmission,......GL-5 Above -22F......85W No AMSOIL Product RecommendationManual Transmission,......GL-5 Above -22F......85W No AMSOIL Product RecommendationManual Transmission,......GL-5 Above 32F......90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)Manual Transmission,......GL-5 Above 32F......90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)Manual Transmission,......GL-5 All TEMPS......75W-90 SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT)Manual Transmission,......GL-5 Below 86F......80W SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)Manual Transmission,......GL-5 Below 86F......80W SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) Differential, Rear......GL-5 ALL TEMPS......75W-90 SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT) Differential, Rear......GL-5 Above -22F......85W No AMSOIL Product Recommendation Differential, Front......GL-5 ALL TEMPS......75W-90 SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT) Differential, Front......GL-5 Above 32F......90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT) Differential, Front......GL-5 Above -22F......85W No AMSOIL Product Recommendation Differential, Rear......GL-5 Above 32F......90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT) Differential, Front......GL-5 Below 86F......80W SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT) Differential, Rear......GL-5 Below 86F......80W SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT) 75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT) SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT)Fluids Power Steering Fluid......AF3 Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT) Power Steering Fluid......AF3 Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (ATD1G) Brake Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) Clutch Fluid......HB AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN) [1] SAE 5W-30 is preferred. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg FILTERS: Oil Filter Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EAO12) Oil Filter WIX 51365 Oil Filter Air Filter WIX 46914 Air Filter Cabin Air Filter WIX 24875 Cabin Air Filter Fuel Filter Transmission Filter Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EAO12) [1] Transmission Filter WIX 51365 Oil Filter [1] [1] Spin-on Transmission http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS: No Recommendations http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg WIPER BLADES: Blade ClassDriverPassengerRear ExactFit T241 T181 T14B NeoForm T16240 T16180 Winter T37245 T37180 http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg CHASSIS LUBRICATION: 0 Fittings, 0 Plugs http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg CAPACITIES: Engine, with filter..........4.6 quarts [1]Cooling System, With AT Initial Fill..........7.7 quartsAMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine CoolantCooling System, With MT Initial Fill..........7.8 quartsAMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine CoolantManual Transmission, 5-SPD..........7.4 pintsManual Transmission, 6-SPD..........8.7 pintsDifferential, Front..........3 pintsDifferential, Ex With 6-SPD man Rear..........1.7 pintsDifferential, With 6-SPD manual Rear..........2.2 pints [1] After refill check oil level. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/images/minus.jpg TORQUES: Oil Drain Plug.....33 ft/lbs Manual Transmission Aluminum Gasket Drain Plug 33 ft/lbs Manual Transmission Copper Gasket Drain Plug 51 ft/lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tLewis7 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Dealer 5-30 dino with OEM filter every 3000 x 2 chages, then German Castrol 0-30 with NAPA 1334 (oversized made by WIX/Dana) every 3750 until the warranty gods satisfied; then OCI probably every 7000 after that depending on what is new with oil at the time. GREATER FLOW = GREATER LUBRICATION/HEAT DISIPATION/PROTECTION http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcracken Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 tlewis7 - One of the best posts related to motor oil...Sorry Rao... Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tLewis7 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 tlewis7 - One of the best posts related to motor oil...Sorry Rao... Cheers, Mike I thought so too. Really quite simple actually when you put the issues of maximum flow with enough (not max) pressure for the given ambient/engine temps/load together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 26, 2010 Mega Users Share Posted February 26, 2010 Dealer 5-30 dino with OEM filter every 3000 x 2 chages, then German Castrol 0-30 with NAPA 1334 (oversized made by WIX/Dana) every 3750 until the warranty gods satisfied; then OCI probably every 7000 after that depending on what is new with oil at the time. GREATER FLOW = GREATER LUBRICATION/HEAT DISIPATION/PROTECTION http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles#faq_motor_oil_basics Post of the year. This ferrari guy has a lot of good info. I just did an oil change, OEM filter and regular Mobil 1 5w-30 @3500-4000 mi intervals. I like all of the stuff he has to say about synthetics on cold start up (warm and fuzzy feelings abound!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldradio1 Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 German Castrol (0w-30) with OEM filter every 3k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneedragger Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Good oil (5w-30/40) every 5-6000klms with oem filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman7 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 with a Bosch Premium Oil filter every 3-5k on the LGT. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 with a K&N Oil filter every 4-5k on the A4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 Ok In that link I tried to figure out what was the best way to get the car from 1 million to 10 on cold days. 3 second rule and low rev driving or 1 minute and low rev? 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tLewis7 Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Ok In that link I tried to figure out what was the best way to get the car from 1 million to 10 on cold days. 3 second rule and low rev driving or 1 minute and low rev? ~I initially wondered about this too. Basically, I think the goal is setting yourself up for the least amount of wear by starting with the best flow characteristics available when cold and easing on to moderate then boosted driving as you get up too normal operating temp (thinking of the tranny and diffs too). ~I garage my car and car temps this winter range 45-55 degrees depending on how cold a morning it is. I am up to normal operating temp in about two miles after idling for 20 seconds and then driving easy (slowly getting to the 30-40 mph speed limits). ~If the car has been driven in the last 1-2 hours, depending on the ambient temps, I get to normal operating temps in 1/2 of that time. My guess is that these time intervals to operating temperature will be halved when spring and summer arrive in earnest. ~I have always driven my cars this way even when I was using 5&10W-30&40 dino oil with good results (1990 full size Bronco with 245K and 1998 Olds Sillohette MomMobile with 118K, both running strong and both leak more then they burn). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Reason I ask is I can't avoid boost situations on cold start/drive. To stay out of boost I have to climb a 45 mph hill @ 10 mph. Once I leave my 3rd shift job in the morn i'm faced with 3 nice sized hills. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tLewis7 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Reason I ask is I can't avoid boost situations on cold start/drive. To stay out of boost I have to climb a 45 mph hill @ 10 mph. Once I leave my 3rd shift job in the morn i'm faced with 3 nice sized hills. Bummer: ~If you have access to electrical plug in, an electric engine (coolant or oil) warmer might help. I have used an oil pan heater that magnetically afixes to the the bottom of the oil pan, but I think ours are aluminum so you may have to prop up the heating element with a brick or something that won't catch fire (I got it at a Checker or AutoZone). I think I have seen dip stick heating elements also, but I think the oil pan one would heat better. I have even used a higher watt light bulb in a cheap reflective work light near the oil pan at times before I found the magnetic element. ~Otherwise idle a little longer and take the long way out of the parking area or drive on a side road (if there is one) before you hit the hills. ~You could always drive in circles and tell your work mates that you are recalibrating the compass (Ha!). ~I think even if you let her warm a bit and just try to be as easy and slow as you dare on a 45mph road for a mile or so would be of benefit in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 I'll let it run longer. The lot we have to park in is isolated even from light poles and too much concrete for me to remote start from inside the main facility. Can't drive around cause it's a retirement community out in the middle of nowhere. My exhaust gives off slight pulsations in the brake/gas pedals. I pretty much coast in there for work around 11 pm. It's getting warmer here so hopefully i'll be good. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tLewis7 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 ^ ~Offer joy rides to the more zesty mature folks near you as a social activity and all will be well with the world. As for most things in life, moderation is the key until normal operating temp is reached; then boost baby boost. ~By the way, I have been wondering charcoal or black wheels for my SWP. Me likey the look of your blacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Reason I ask is I can't avoid boost situations on cold start/drive. To stay out of boost I have to climb a 45 mph hill @ 10 mph. Once I leave my 3rd shift job in the morn i'm faced with 3 nice sized hills. Don't worry about slight boost, even a grandma would get boost in those conditions. The point is to avoid a too rapid warming of parts and oil, not to stay out of boost completely. Rapid temperature changes are what causes trouble and stresses the material. Flooring it on those hills would be another thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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