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poll: What oil are you using and what change interval?


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I've always broken-in thusly: drive gently, under 4k rpm so the ECU stays in closed loop as much as possible, but while varying speeds and load. Dump the factory fill at 1K miles. Then conventional oil changes at 2500, 4500, 7000. That makes for oil change intervals of 1500, 2000 and 2500 miles. Then switch to synthetic at the 10K mile oil change. From there either a 5K or 7.5K OCI depending on UOA results.
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thatwouldbegreat

 

My friend uses the GC in his VW and I am planning on using it also(been a Mobil1 person for years). However, I just passed 1,100 on the odo. Since you seem to know quite a bit about "oils", wanted to ask for opinion. I know this question is a much debated topic. Can I use synthetic now..or must I wait till around 10k or so? I asked my shop foreman, says use it now is ok, and that the fact the rings have to "settle" in up to 10k miles makes no sense to him.

Sorry for kinda going off topic

 

10K sounds a bit excessive. I just waited till the oil consumption became reasonable before switching to synthetic. When the car was new it burned through a liter in a few hundred KM. After about 4000 km the consumption dropped to ~100mL/1000km. I figured the rings were seated as the consumption had leveled off and my fuel economy had improved and wasn't getting much better.

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Hmm. just wondering. if i use synthetic oil do i have to use a different type of filter? or is the subaru "six star" standard filter enough?

I dont know much about oil, moreover, i have a 2.5i. so it's hard for me to convert you guy's 2.5GT theory into use.

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No you don't need a different filter, the OEM filter is fine no matter what oil you use. For a 2.5i, dino oil is just fine at factory specified intervals. Regular maintenance with dino will make your engine outlast the rest of the car, provided you drive sanely.
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Well, I personally don't think one needs to be very picky about what oil we use for our turbos either. Use any quality SM dino for your 2.5i and rest easy. I recommend Chevron/Havoline, it's every bit as good as the Castrols and Pennzoils of the world but costs less. In reality though, any SM dino will be just fine. If you want to learn more, spend time at bobistheoilguy.com forums.
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  • 11 months later...

I just came from the dealership and had my oil changed, at 12500 with Quaker State 10w-30,

 

but the thing is, I am the 2nd owner, and the 1st owner had it changed twice with mobil 1 0w-40 at 3700 and 7500, but he was up in Nebraska,

 

and I am down in houston, Texas.

 

I was told by the maintenance guy that in the very hot weather, it's not a good idea to run 0w-40, and that 10w-30 at 3750 intervals is the best way to go.

 

What does everybody think here?

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I just came from the dealership and had my oil changed, at 12500 with Quaker State 10w-30,

 

but the thing is, I am the 2nd owner, and the 1st owner had it changed twice with mobil 1 0w-40 at 3700 and 7500, but he was up in Nebraska,

 

and I am down in houston, Texas.

 

I was told by the maintenance guy that in the very hot weather, it's not a good idea to run 0w-40, and that 10w-30 at 3750 intervals is the best way to go.

 

What does everybody think here?

 

I think look for advice elsewhere.

 

Subaru now wants turbo motor oil changes every 3750 miles.

 

Look in you owner's manual and see if Subaru still prefers heavier oils in high temperatures or heavy loads.

 

I would look for a good deal on a less expensive synthetic like Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 if you change every 3750 miles, or a thicker 5W-30 synthetic.

 

Or maybe Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40.

 

At the minimum use conventional oil like Castrol GTX 10W-40.

 

Once I the car is out of warranty I think a premium synthetic like GC 0W-30, Elf Excellium Full Tech 0W-30, Redline 5W-40, Amsoil 5W-40 at 7000 mile intervals.

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its a 2005 Legacy GT wagon, and I probably put on 1000 miles a month, which is pretty average.

 

 

 

So do you think i should make the switch back to synthetic, even if i'm changing out every 3750 miles? I don't mind paying for Mobil 1, but what do you think I should go for in this hot weather?

 

My manual says this:

 

5W-30 used from -35F to 100F

 

10W-30 or 10W-40 used from 0F to 120F

 

But in High Temperature areas like desert or for heavy duty operation like towing Subaru changes the oil specification to:

 

30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50

 

Mind you, Houston is very hot and humid and in the summer, and in the winter very rarely does it freeze. We have very mild winters.

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I think look for advice elsewhere.

 

Subaru now wants turbo motor oil changes every 3750 miles.

 

Look in you owner's manual and see if Subaru still prefers heavier oils in high temperatures or heavy loads.

 

I would look for a good deal on a less expensive synthetic like Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 if you change every 3750 miles, or a thicker 5W-30 synthetic.

 

Or maybe Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40.

 

At the minimum use conventional oil like Castrol GTX 10W-40.

 

Once I the car is out of warranty I think a premium synthetic like GC 0W-30, Elf Excellium Full Tech 0W-30, Redline 5W-40, Amsoil 5W-40 at 7000 mile intervals.

 

I would add Motul and Mobil 1 0W-40 (not necessarily other Mobil 1's though).

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I just came from mobil 1 0w-40 synthetic though.

 

Is it neccessary, or even detrimental in this hot weather?

 

I can't see why it would be worse than any other *w-40 oil.

 

I use it year 'round and it's factory fill in Porsches.

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I just came from mobil 1 0w-40 synthetic though.

 

Is it neccessary, or even detrimental in this hot weather?

 

The funny thing is that lots of people get confused or scared by 0w-xx oils. The first number only refers to the cold viscosity of the oil. The second number refers to the viscosity at operating temperatures. There is no downside to 0w-xx oils. They simply flow better at startup and reduce wear when you first start up the car.

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As boostjunkie says, the 0-40 oil is thicker at operating temperature than 30 wt, it will be fine for pretty much any conditions your car will see. My only reason for not using M1 is the consumption issues my LGT seems to have with M1. Others here have seen pretty heavy consumption with M1, others have not.

 

If you're sticking with 3750 mile oil changes, IMO a regular SM rated dino will be fine as well. Just follow the manual for the viscocity ratings and temperature, and you'll be fine.

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  • 4 months later...

Which would you guys recommend for me running Mobil1 5W-30 and doing changes at around 6-7K:

 

Mobil1 Extended Performance Filter or Subaru Stock Filter?

 

 

Also, anyone have the number of the mobil1 filter? I went to the store, but they didn't have the book and I dont know which one it is....thanks!

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Which would you guys recommend for me running Mobil1 5W-30 and doing changes at around 6-7K:

 

Mobil1 Extended Performance Filter or Subaru Stock Filter?

 

 

Also, anyone have the number of the mobil1 filter? I went to the store, but they didn't have the book and I dont know which one it is....thanks!

 

:confused:

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