poll: What oil are you using and what change interval?

[AMBIVALENCE]

for those who use Castrol Syntec 5W-30, how do they feel compare to mobil1? I am reaching 10k soon. gonna change to synthetic.

Hope someone could answer this question.

[Steiner]

'05 LGT - Mobil-1 and Subaru filter at manufacturer's recommended weight and interval, 5W-30/3750mi

'05 Dodge Durango LTD Hemi 5.7L - Mobil-1 and Bosch filter at manufacturer's recommended weight and interval, 5W-20/3000mi

'97 Chevrolet S10 supercharged 4.3L - Mobil-1 and Bosch filter at manufactuer's recommended weight and interval, 5W-30/3000mi

'02 Honda VTX Retro 1800cc - Amsoil and Honda filter at manufacturer's recommended weight and interval, 10W-40/4000mi

'01 Triumph Sprint ST 955cc - Mobil-1 and Triumph filter at manufacturer's recommended weight and interval, 15W-40/6000mi

I use the short trip or "A" schedule on everything no matter what kind of driving I do. To me, oil is cheap. I spend $30 on an oil change versus around $400 on gas between changes on the most fuel efficient car. Saving receipts and filling out the maintenance schedule is easy. Should I ever have a problem with something under warranty, the dealer is damn sure not going to find anything to nitpick on required maintenance (like some have been known to do).

This is not directed at anyone in particular: My advice to anyone would be do whatever the heck you like, but this is that way I do it for ease of keeping up with it and following the guidelines put forth by a group of people who know more than I do. If it suits you and you've got the money, change it like you do your underwear. If you want to squeeze an extra few bucks out of an oil change on a $30k car, you've got that right as well. I fully believe that synthetics can go much longer than my intervals, but I don't really care. I also believe that at my intervals a good conventional is more than adequate, but again I don't care.

OK, who wants the soapbox next?

[schwinn]

Castrol Syntec: Back when I did a TON of reading on this matter, I found that Syntec was not a "true synthetic". In other words, it's basically regular oil that has been "extra processed" or "filtered" (hydrocracked) to help improve the concentrations of the "right" oil molevules. This, as compared to a "true" synthetic which is chemically engineered to have the "right" molecules. The former method is cheaper, and results in a lower priced product, but until the lawyers got involved, it wasn't called "synthetic" as it's not really man-made.

 

I know that M1, Amsoil, and Redline are "true" synthetics by the original definition... for what it's worth.

 

But, what bothered me the most about Syntec was that the oil testing showed a very high ash content for it - much higher than ANY other oil (regular or synthetic). What does this mean? Well, higher ash content leads to faster sludging of the oil. Now, I don't know why Syntec was the only one to do this (GTX was MUCH better than Syntec in this regard) but I do recall many people saying to avoid syntec on my old Mazda MX6, as it could lead to clogging of the relatively small camshaft oiling passageways on that motor, as well as clogging of the HLAs.

 

For this reason, I have always recommended anyone against Syntec...

 

Again, this is relatively old data (from at least 4 years ago) so things may have changed with regards to Syntec's manufacturing... but I'd rather stick with what I know works well. I suppose the interested reader could visit the MANY threads at BITOG to see how Syntec fares. I'll stick to my M1 or other "true" synthetic, or a quality dino oil instead..

[Henkle]

for those who use Castrol Syntec 5W-30, how do they feel compare to mobil1? I am reaching 10k soon. gonna change to synthetic.

Hope someone could answer this question.

 

I had been using both when I was driving an '87 Celica GT-S (hi-rev engine w/ redline @ 7200rpm) for 9 years. Mobile 1 was a great improvement over dino oil. But When I switched to Syntec, it was no going back! I'm very sensitive about how different oil makes the engine feel; and I think that Syntec made the engine smoother & easier to rev high. I really don't care if Syntec is "true" synthetic or not. It is clear to me that I liked Syntec more. With Syntec in the LGT, it's easier (than dino oil) traveling @80mph, and I've never thought of using Mobile 1.

 

FYI, Mercedes recommends using Mobile 1, but BMW uses Syntec (bottled w/ BMW logo)!

 

People have different preferences on what oil to use. I just prefer Syntec for what it makes me feel...

[gmorris]

Nice stash! I'm down to about 20 qts. from my high of 50 or so, and I'm getting a little nervous. Although since the LGT is the only car that gets GC in household and I drive it less than 15K miles a year, that means I still have over a year's supply. Hopefully there is another oil on the horizon the can match GC, but if there isn't... wanna sell me some?

 

You can still buy German Castrol that is made in Germany but it's now gold instead of green. From what I've read on BITOG the yellow is pretty much as good as the old green?

[thatwouldbegreat]

for those who use Castrol Syntec 5W-30, how do they feel compare to mobil1? I am reaching 10k soon. gonna change to synthetic.

Hope someone could answer this question.

 

If there is an Autozone near you take a look at the Castrol Syntec European 0W-30 and 5W-40..personally I think these are better than the normal Syntec 5W-30. If you find the Green German Castrol 0W-30 with the red label and the right date codes..jump all over it...good stuff!

 

Another good oil is the European formula Pennzoil Platinum.

 

Or stick with Mobil 1 0W-40, or Redline 5W-30.

[bugblatterbeast]

Nice stash! I'm down to about 20 qts. from my high of 50 or so, and I'm getting a little nervous. Although since the LGT is the only car that gets GC in household and I drive it less than 15K miles a year, that means I still have over a year's supply. Hopefully there is another oil on the horizon the can match GC, but if there isn't... wanna sell me some?

 

You can still get GC in the great white north but it isn't as glow in the dark green as it used to be.

[jagcars26]

Mobil 1,5-30, every 4000 miles with OEM filter.

[bugblatterbeast]

Esso XD-3 0w30 every 6000km (only the 0w30 and 0w40 grades are group IV). At ~$4cnd/liter I can't really go wrong.

[thatwouldbegreat]

Esso XD-3 0w30 every 6000km (only the 0w30 and 0w40 grades are group IV). At ~$4cnd/liter I can't really go wrong.

 

Esso XD-3 0W-30? That's a GWN bargain:icon_bigg Probably safe to 8000 kms.

 

I'm not trying to soapbox here, but modern engines run so clean and modern oils are so good in many areas that 3K/3 months oil changes aren't needed.

 

 

Every 3K was a great rule of thumb, it kept a lot of engines alive...but now its wasteful.

 

Sube's call for 3750 mile OCI for severe service, which describes many people's driving.

 

SOA call for 7500 mile OCI for non severe operation...which is actually not that common.

 

Mobil 1 tech support will tell you with Mobil 1 to use the non severe schedule even for severe operation.

 

My 2005 Chevy Duramax has an oil life monitor that often will measure operation and calculate an OCI of 9000 miles plus. I'll change at 30% life remaining for Delo 400 and 10% life for Delvac 1.

 

BMW's are often in the 12K to 15K OCI with Long Life approved synthetic, although I'd probably change at 10K max. Just to leave a little extra safety factor.

 

But changing Mobil 1 quality synthetic with 60% or more of its life remaining is excessive and wasteful.

 

Also don't forget that if your car uses a quart and you add 1 quart to a 5 quart sump then the oil life is increased by 20%.

 

And frequent oil changes may actually , or theoretically, produce more wear, because of dry start after a change, or because fresh oil is over additized

[PGT]

Mobil 1 5w-30 & a Subaru OEM filter every 5000 miles

 

[AMBIVALENCE]

thx for schwinn and Henkle's review on Castrol Syntec. Really helpful! As for german castrol, you guys sure canada has it?

[AMBIVALENCE]

If there is an Autozone near you take a look at the Castrol Syntec European 0W-30 and 5W-40..personally I think these are better than the normal Syntec 5W-30. If you find the Green German Castrol 0W-30 with the red label and the right date codes..jump all over it...good stuff!

 

Another good oil is the European formula Pennzoil Platinum.

 

Or stick with Mobil 1 0W-40, or Redline 5W-30.

 

I drive a 2.5i, does it matter?

[thatwouldbegreat]

I have two 2005 2.5i Outbacks, and I use the German Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

 

If you look at owner's manual you'll see Subaru specs :

 

5W-30 used from -35F to 100F

 

10W-30 or 10W-40 used from 0F to 120F

 

But in High Temperature areas like desert or for heavy duty operation like towing Subaru changes the oil specification to:

 

30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50

 

So Castrol GC is a thick 0W-30, in other words almost a 0W-40.This means it should protect at high temps and output like a 40 weight and flow quickly and protect from dry starts like a 0 weight. In addition synthetic basestock can contain esters that cling to metal better and leave more of a protective film. And both Redline and GC have very special basestocks that deal with extrem temps and pressure better and have better dynamic quality in the bearings and leave a film like a grade higher conventional oil would. In other words, some synthetic 40 weights protect like a 50 weight.

 

Also these syn oils need less additives to achieve the performance required which means more oil to lube and fewer additives to burn or wear out. If you couple this with a great choice in the additive package like GC and Redline you have a great oil.

 

The really good news is that in many ways all new spec oils are working towards this same high level of performance, and future oils will be even better. But some older engine designs will still need extra ZDDP as an Anti Wear Extreme Pressure additive. ZDDP is being reduced in newer oils to theoretically extend the life of catalytic converters.

 

Redline is a very thick 5W-30.

 

My thinking is that an oil that is made from a superior basestock like Redline or GC and is almost a 0W-40 is perfect oil for a wide range of temperatures and operation in our Subaru engines like our 2.5i.

 

 

GC is rated:

 

SL/CF

ACEA A-3/ B-3. B4

Porsche Approved

Mercedes Benz 229.1 , 229.3

VW 502.00, 505.00,

BMW Longlife -01

 

-------------------------------------

 

The newest version of Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30 is at Autozone and there is a lot of debate on whether the new OW-30 is as good as the green German Castrol, but it does have the newest approvals and ratings.

 

SAE 0W-30:

Castrol SYNTEC 0W-30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W-30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low-temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to -40°F. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GM-LL-A-025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.

[bugblatterbeast]

thx for schwinn and Henkle's review on Castrol Syntec. Really helpful! As for german castrol, you guys sure canada has it?

 

I just put some in one of the Maximas a few weeks ago. The formulation has changed but it is still made in Germany. Can Tire usually stocks some.

 

I'm still a big fan of the Esso product. It is cheap and I can get it in 5 gallon pails. If you have a chance give Noco Oils a call and bypass the middle man.

[nicheplayer]

Must OEM filters always come from a dealer shop, or can they be had somehwere else?

[Steiner]

Must OEM filters always come from a dealer shop, or can they be had somehwere else?

 

I'm sure someone will correct me, but I don't think you can get a true "Subaru" branded oil filter from anywhere except a dealer or authorized Subaru parts distributor, i.e. you can't buy one in an ordinary autoparts store. Lots of dealers run online stores though.

 

subarupartsforyou.com has a decent price on them by the case.

[AMBIVALENCE]

I have two 2005 2.5i Outbacks, and I use the German Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

 

If you look at owner's manual you'll see Subaru specs :

 

5W-30 used from -35F to 100F

 

10W-30 or 10W-40 used from 0F to 120F

 

So Castrol GC is a thick 0W-30, in other words almost a 0W-40.

My thinking is that an oil that is made from a superior basestock like Redline or GC and is almost a 0W-40 is perfect oil for a wide range of temperatures and operation in our Subaru engines like our 2.5i....

 

So what about summer? I am happy about what you said about winter start with this oil, but would summer be a bit problem?

 

Alrite, my first mission would be trying to find the GC oil, in red label you guys said?

[thatwouldbegreat]

So what about summer? I am happy about what you said about winter start with this oil, but would summer be a bit problem?

 

Alrite, my first mission would be trying to find the GC oil, in red label you guys said?

 

The German Castrol GC in a thick 0W-30 is an example of a great year round oil, since it covers a very wide range of temperatures and viscosity with very few additives to improve viscosity. Additives can wear out or burn and leave deposits in the engine and the additives or the basestock can shear or thicken and change the viscosity of the oil .

 

 

Since these synthetics can provide more of the desired properties without additives and typically are more shear stable and resist oxidation and thickening, and also have fewer contaminants... a premium base stock synthetic like Redline, GC can last longer , work in a wider range of temeratures, and handle severe operation better.

 

This is true, to a lesser extent with Mobil 1, or the better Pennzoil Platinum and top of the line Amsoil products. The SM/ GF4 spec requires, to varying degrees, w all the other latest specs oils which hit very high performance standards at lower prices.

 

 

I think you can run the GC, or Redline 5W-30, 5W-40, and 10W-40 year round in very high ambient temperatures. If I lived in Las Vegas in the summer, I might do more research for a particular engine to see if I needed 10W-40 or 20W-50 synthetic for some engines, but most would still run 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 synthetic with no problem.

 

If I was running a non synthetic, I would be using a thicker oil for summer as Subaru's charts suggest.

[thatwouldbegreat]

Don't count on trying to find the original green GC with specific date codes made in 2003 to 2005, with a red label, 'made in germany' . A few Autozones may have a few bottles , but slim pickings.

 

Autozone should have the newest bottles with a yellow label, say 'European formula', 'made in germany' on the back, and the oil itself is no longer green in color.

 

It still should be a good to great oil. This does not mean, however, that the other Castrol Syntec products are anywhere near as good.

 

The other oils to use are Redline from www.myoilshop.com, or Mobil 1 0W-40, 5W-30 EP, , Delvac 1 5W-40, , Pennzoil Platinum , Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30, Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30, Amsoil European Formula 5W-40.

 

Personally I like Redline and GC. And when my stash of GC runs out it will be Redline and whatever else is as good.

[AMBIVALENCE]

ahhh. as bug said. i'll try my luck in my canadian tire store see if they have them in stock. by all means i can either go with the ESSO or the Syntec. Those will be my backup choices.

 

Now.. another interesting question, Esso is 0W30 and Syntec is 5W30.

That means Esso should be better without doubt? =)

[bugblatterbeast]

I'm a huge fan of the Esso product. The car starts easily with it in the winter and its really cheap for a group IV synthetic. I hate paying for a name and/or packaging so I like the fact that I can get it in a 20L pail. It was originally designed for heavy duty turbo diesel engines so I rest a bit easier knowing it should keep the soot from our really rich running engines in suspension.

[thatwouldbegreat]

ahhh. as bug said. i'll try my luck in my canadian tire store see if they have them in stock. by all means i can either go with the ESSO or the Syntec. Those will be my backup choices.

 

Now.. another interesting question, Esso is 0W30 and Syntec is 5W30.

That means Esso should be better without doubt? =)

 

My understanding is that the Canadian Esso XD3 0W-30 oil is a Heavy Duty Engine Oil intended for diesel engines in cold environments, that can also be used as a passenger car motor oil.

 

XD3 is a PAO oil, or made from Group IV true synthetic basestock, with a robust additive package and a high Total Base Number [ TBN ] if 12 to deal with acids from sulphur in diesel fuel. It probably has some polymeric Viscosity Index Improvers [ VII's ]. XD3 is bargain priced, and should work well for short trip driving, and long periods of storage or intermittent use, and long drain intervals.

 

GC is a slightly better oil for high performance driving , IMHO, because it has better basestocks [ Group IV and Group V true synthetic ]and fewer additives.

The ratings and approvals of the GC compared to XD3 , as well as the Used Oil Analysis shows it works well in high performance cars.

 

 

Castrol Syntec 5W-30 if its like the US version is a Group III basestock oil with a good additive package , and many enthusiasts feel it is marketing over engineering and not good value.

[AMBIVALENCE]

wahh! you guys know so much about oils!! Too many professional jargon...

Thatwouldbegreat, do u work for oil company??

 

Anyhow, so the higher the group number the better the oil it is! =)

Where do i find the group classification on the box?

[Boostjunkie]

wahh! you guys know so much about oils!! Too many professional jargon...

Thatwouldbegreat, do u work for oil company??

 

Anyhow, so the higher the group number the better the oil it is! =)

Where do i find the group classification on the box?

 

You can find out a lot more about oil and pick up a lot of the jargon at bobistheoilguy.com. There is ton of info there on all things oil related.

 

Regarding the group number, the higher group number generally constitute better basestocks, but is not the end all in deciding which oil is best for you. You will not find any indication of the basestock composition on the bottle, other than words such as hydrocracked (mean Group II+ or Group III) and perhaps esters (mean Group V).