Boostjunkie

I have the Cusco engine and tranny mounts as well as a Beatrush pitch stop and man oh man are they stiff. That's good since my motor probably would have ripped the stock mounts apart, but the increase in NVH more than a little considerable. Any semblance of luxury car feel is gone. I'd imagine that the Grp N mounts would be a lot softer, so they might be a happy medium.

ILFR7H is an NGK part number. I believe the ILFR7H is the replacement for the LFR7AIX and is supposed to be longer lasting.

Don't worry about it. 1 step colder won't hurt anything. Ambient temperature really doesn't have any effect on fouling. If all you do is sit in traffic with the engine idling then running 1 step colder plugs might increase the possibility of fouling, but even then you likely still be fine. Once you get up to speed and even just cruising for any length of time, the EGT's are plenty hot enough to get even colder plugs up to their self cleaning temp.

Thanks for the plug Rommel. Yimi Sport is about 1 hour from Norwalk, or a little further than Subie Specialties. SS does excellent work, but I'll probably clock in at a lower price. It is entirely possible that I have installed more sets of coilovers on LGT's than anyone else in the country, so you could say I definitely know my way around LGT suspension work. We don't do alignments at the shop, but there is another local shop that I can refer you to that does a great job at a very reasonable price. Corner balancing certainly wouldn't hurt if you track the car, but the LGT actually corner weights very well at an even drop, so even then the gains are very small.

With high quality speakers and amplification the OEM equalization curve will give an overly bright sound with waaaay too much midbass boom. It will not sound good. I picked up my Cleansweep used for a little more than $200. The Navone LOC is a very high quality LOC, but it does not address the issue with the built-in equalization of the factory head unit. I used to do quite a bit of audio install work, but it's far too time consuming for me now. I would recommend a smaller independent car audio shop rather than one of the mega chains. The craftsmanship, care and attention will be much higher.

You'll want something better than the Navone LOC. The stock head unit has a variable EQ curve built in to it. That needs to be EQ'ed out to provide a flat signal for good quality aftermarket amp(s) and speakers. JL Audio's Cleansweep is a popular option, and I believe Rockford Fosgate 3.sixty is functionally similar as well.

All the shops that Rommel listed can do regular maintenance or install performance parts. Both Yimi Sport Tuning and Harman Motive offer dyno tuning services as well. None of the aforementioned shops normally install audio gear.

I got sucked in Lovin' my Stoptechs. I haven't driven my car hard enough to write a good review for this thread, but I am more than satisfied with my Stoptech BBK.

Ok, I'll whore my dyno sheet out too 05 LGT sedan - 5MT Mod list: Shortblock: Supertech forged pistons Supertech/NPR rings Manley rods Cosworth rod and main bearing (race spec) Nitrided and micropolished stock crank Cosworth oil pump Cosworth head studs Greddy timing belt Balanced and blueprinted Heads: Ported and polished Supertech 1mm oversized valves (SS intake, Inconel exhaust) Supertech double valve springs and Ti retainers Cosworth cams (278/274) Bolt-ons: Deadbolt SZ55 turbo (7cm2 turbine housing, internal gate, 3" inlet) APS 3" turbo inlet pipe Harman Motive CAI JDM TGV deletes Perrin FMIC Perrin fuel rails Perrin EBCS PE 850 injectors Walbro fuel pump PDE uppipe Megan Racing DP Megan Racing CBE HKS BOV (fully recirculated) 91 octane pump gas. No meth. No additives. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/Pisadong/91octane_agressive.jpg I'll be back with a modded GT35R in a little over a week and hopefully quite a bit more power (500+ whp on pump + meth). Of course I do need to work out a head gasket issue too

Tapping it lightly against a wooden work bench is actually a good way to close the gap down a bit. You don't need a lot of force, a few little taps is about all it should need. Go a little at a time.

That's ok, but I really would prefer to see them gapped to 0.026-0.028. Again. be careful checking the gap and setting the gap. Do not put any stress against the iridium tip. If you do, they can break off and the plug will be fubar.

They are usually really close right out of the box, but you can gap the plugs you just have to be really careful and not put any stress on the iridium tip. Run a gap between .026" to 0.28".

That's a pretty good looking plug, especially for 70K miles. You might be running a touch leaner than you should, but probably nothing to worry about.

All you need and want is a short 4" extension. Any longer and you won't be able to get it past the frame rails.

Yup LFR7AIX. It's a little tighter under the hood of the LGT than the older model Legacies/Outbacks, but it's a doable job for a DIY'er.

Just follow the tips that have been posted here and DIY. The 1 step colder NGK's are the way to go on a modded car. They are a bit cheaper and around $40 for all four. DIY and that's all you'll spend. It'll take you a couple hours the first time around, but it's usually a 35-45 minute job for me now.

When you disconnect the harness plugs from the coil packs to remove them you have to keep track of which plug goes to which coil pack for re-installation. They are color coded. The plastic connectors for the front coil packs are white, the ones for the rear coil packs are black.

Actually, the 1 step colder NGK plug that is most often used is LFR7AIX. Changing plugs on a Subaru isn't a lot of fun, but I can usually get it done in about 45 minutes. I leave the battery in, but usually take out the airbox. The rear coil packs can easily be extracted from the top if you detach the wiring plugs, pull the coil packs off the plugs, then rotate them 180*. They pull right out then. To get the rear plugs out, I use a spark plug socket with a 4" extension. Loosen the rear plugs till there is just a thread or two engaged and pull out the extension. Then stick a finger in the end of the spark plug socket and finish pulling out the plug. If you leave the extension in the socket on some cars there is not enough room to the frame rails to pull the whole assembly out. The front plugs are straightforward. Reinstall everything in reverse order. Remember that the black headed plugs go to the rear coil packs and the white headed plugs go to the front coil packs.

Could have used one last night. We were doing tequila shots and guzzling beer at Yim's after hours Friday night meet.

I might swing by in the AM. I have to be somewhere in the afternoon and evening. If you can be there before noon I can take a look at your car.

Armound is a nice guy. Not a ton of Subaru specific knowledge, but very attentive and very customer service oriented. Thanks for the plug Dave!

Hey Carlos, I'm going to be at Yimi most of the day tomorrow. Swing by and I'll take a look at your car again.

Thanks guys. I am by no means a seasoned pro. Just an enthusiast who has turned a couple wrenches over the years.

Paul Yim actually has a Subaru tuner on staff. His name is Anthony and I have watched him tune quite a few cars and he does a very nice job.

We ended up getting them off without any problems. As I mentioned in my previous post, the ACT flywheel and clutch assembly was in the car when I left around 5pm.