spect2k

Hey guys - I've actually since traded in the legacy for a truck, so no longer with the car. I did put 25k on the rear pads after doing the work with no issues. I also went back there once after doing the work to lubricate the system - all looked good. I no longer have it in front of me, but the factory service manual specifies two ways to retract the pistons, (1) with a factory scan tool and (2) without the scan tool in the way that I did it. After putting the system back together and reconnecting the power harness, the first parking brake actuation took slightly longer than usual and sounded like it was recalibrating. Perfect after that. Hope it helps!

Check out toptiergas.com There is a difference.

Pretty sure the fuel filter is in the tank along with the pump. I wouldn't bother replacing it, at least not until much later on. I know it's in the manual, but I'd suspect Subaru would advise you to leave it alone. Just like the transmission fluid that my dealer refuses to touch, my guess is they'll claim "lifetime" on the fuel filter.

No need to raise the engine. Only minor disassembly needed. Good post above with the PDF.

Back it onto ramps if you have them. Then there is plenty of room.

I replaced those disgusting LS2s with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S3+. Completely transformed the car. I will rarely buy anything other than Michelins. They really do make the best tires overall in my opinion. Enjoy.

Mine flickers too briefly at first. Bone stock

A thicker oil is not a good idea. You may notice slightly less burning oil, but quite a few new and much more expensive problems. I'm not a big fan of additives either. If I am within spec that the dealer won't help me, I would sooner try a different brand of oil and see if that makes a difference. Can't explain why, but some engines like some oils better than others.

Gospel. Experience tells me that brake fluid lasts about 4 years or so in my climate (CT). This is determined by moisture content using a brake fluid tester. I've seen as little as 3 years, and as much as 6 years. Different fluids behave differently. Diff fluids are a good thing to change around 30k IMO. Magnets are pretty filled at that point from my experience with Subarus breaking in. After the first change using a high quality fluid, I'd then go another 50-75k on the new diff fluids. Best you can do to "check" the fluids is to take out the fill plug and check the level. This doesn't tell much about the condition of the oil. Also, fluid will likely come out of the fill plug as well. If you are already down there "checking" the fluid level, it is only one other bolt and some fluid to change it out. Some Toyotas are having rear diff growling issues with people that have never changed out fluid. I've been doing a bunch of them and those that have been serviced aren't having any issues. Just my experiences.

Glad it helped, but all I did is just basic routine brake maintenance. That isn't in any way the purpose of the thread. I'm not sure where your attitude is coming from, but again, glad it worked out. I wasn't even trying to be funny earlier, just ironic that things go wrong or need work seemingly immediately after warranty. Consider looking for brake maintenance advice in the appropriate thread. I would hope others looking to learn how to work on a general braking system would not find this thread. This was just about showing the components of the rear brakes for those experienced with working on brakes and never saw the Legacy's setup. I even stated this wasn't supposed to be a DIY. Anyway, air is cleared now.

To get rid of the squeal, I lubricated the slide pins (silicone paste), cleaned up the pads, lubricated the contact points there (grease). Ran some sand paper over the pads and rotors. Cleaned out any debris with brake cleaner. Retracted the piston is bit to make sure it was moving freely. In general, just cleaned and lubricated things. Squeal is gone. Hope that helps.

Not sure how I negated myself. I'm all ears... Dealer isn't going to do the same quality job I will. Flat rate techs aren't going to take the time to do the same detail that I will. For many of us, we take pride in doing it right, not just what's easy. I did the work to get rid of the squeal. I thought I said that. I investigated a bit further when I was in there out of mechanical curiosity and to be helpful to others when they go in that may not feel as comfortable pioneering this work without the experience from others. Does that answer your question?

First 2 sentences of my post: "I recently went through servicing the brakes, front and rear. This is part of routine maintenance, but I was taking care of a some squealing in this case." I'm going to bring my car to the dealer to take care of some squealing? They are going to service the brakes for free just because I ask? How many visits before they "hear it"? No thanks... The whole job took less time than a round-trip to the dealer anyway. Hope this helps you in the future, particularly at 40k miles when you need to do them. 4k outside of basic warranty.

I recently went through servicing the brakes, front and rear. This is part of routine maintenance, but I was taking care of a some squealing in this case. This isn't intended as a DIY, just meant for those who have done brakes and want to see what the rears look like on this car. Not going through how to lift and support the car, etc. The front is a typical front disc brake setup, so not getting into that. Pictures were taken after the job was done - didn't think of it. A couple of things you'll want to know for the rears with the electronic parking brake. First, I STRONGLY recommend disconnecting the battery - it sucks and will reset some stuff (maintenance screen for example), but I wouldn't mess with that. FSM confirms this is necessary. Alternative is to have a Subaru Computer...yeah.... Next, you will want a 14mm for the caliper mounting brackets and a 7mm hex for the caliper slide pin bolts. There is a little rubber cover to pop off the caliper pin bolts to access them (flat head screwdriver). Before removing the caliper, it may be worth removing the one bolt that holds the brake hose in place. There is limited movement of the caliper without taking off that bolt. I did it without freeing it up, but the FSM says to remove it. Also, you will want to disconnect the electronic parking brake harness on the bottom of the caliper (sorry I didn't get it pictured, but just a pinch/pull connector). To compress the piston, you will not be able to just compress or use a dice-style tool. You will need a legit disc brake pad caliper service tool kit to rotate the piston back in. Mine is from Harbor Freight. If I remember correctly, it was the size 7 that was needed. There is also the retention clip on the caliper. I just used a flat-head to remove and pliers to put them back on and gently hammered it back into place so it seated nicely. I took a picture there so you can see the orientation if needed. I didn't replace pads or rotors. This is with about 25K miles on them. Hope this helps the next person. Really a simple job considering the electronic parking brake. BMW's version of this is insane!

That can be just as bad, if not worse. Trust the crush washer. An alternative is to buy a fumoto valve - torque it down with a torque wrench once and never think about it again. Should save YOU a lot of time! Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

I have a 64gb 3.0 drive that has this issue. I've tried 5 other flash drives and have the same issue. Frustrating... Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=244422

As you saw from the beginning, I was figuring it out. I ended up buying the service manual. The pix I took were when I was looking for some support. I decided to explain the process to everyone after I did it so others could avoid the same issue. This was never supposed to be a diy, but a request for help. Because I didn't take pictures of everything, that is why I explained in detail after. Hope it's helpful as is...

That's a great fluid. I used Amsoil as I had it laying around. I also think it is top of the line fluid. Sometimes you've gotta do things when you've got the chance. I would've waited to 30k also, but life gets in the way!

More reason I'd pay the premium for dealer work on the CVT.

thought I was saying the same.

There is no service interval in the manual other than to inspect. It also says to replace at 15k under sever service (towing and such). There is plenty of evidence to say this job should be done, but the interval is much more debatable. To use your analogy of oil changes, there are some that do their first oil change at 1k miles and then every 3-6k after that. There are some that do every 6k and you even have extremists who follow Amsoil's 25k! My changing it as early as I did equated to that first 1k oil change in my mind. Perhaps the 30k equates to the standard 3k oil change and 50k to the 6k oil change. However u want to look at it, you have to do what you're comfortable doing. As I said, my fluid looked good but the magnet was full. I've done first time diff fluid changes at 50k and it was pretty nasty. Subsequent 50k changes with good synthetic typically looks a lot better in my experience.

Nah, didn't notice any changes. But the big difference is that this is a 2015 with 15k miles on it - very different from the other two you referenced. Also, I didn't do the transmission fluid. I didn't do this work to solve any problems. I had the fluid laying around (cost me nothing other than an hour) and I'm not going to be able to do this kind of work for the foreseeable future, so I needed to get it taken care of now. I think of this as preventative maintenance. By 50k, you could be doing the work to solve a problem as you suggested. I think 30k is the right interval from what I've seen.

Totally works too. Peace of mind. My dealer wanted ~$150 for the job. I had the fluid laying around from other jobs I've been doing and the whole thing took me about 1 hour once I had the service manual. Not to force it, but I'd totally encourage anyone that hasn't done this kind of work before to try the rear diff. It it really easy to do and builds some confidence for that sort of work.

Now that I've done the job, let me give some pointers and specs for everyone doing this job in the future. First, since I was probably the first person to do this work, I ended up getting a subscription for the 2015 factory service manual. More info on THIS THREAD. The biggest warning I will give is to be HYPER aware of what you open before you open it. There are quite a few 8mm hex fasteners down there. Some are for the front differential and others are for the CVT! Again, a warning, do NOT open your CVT. If you don't know what you're doing or you're not 1000% sure, do NOT continue. Do the rear diff yourself and have the dealer do the front. Front Differential: Fill plug access is above the passenger side axle. In the picture in my previous post, you can see it with the axle in the picture. To access it, you have to take off the front passenger wheel. Maybe you could get there another way, but not that I saw. Drain plug for the front differential may be confused for the FILL plug for the CVT! (see warning above). In the 1st and 2nd picture in my previous post, you can see that the CVT fill plug is very convenient (on the side facing the drivers side of the car)! These are NOT for the front differential. The front diff drain plug is in front of the CVT pan, not behind it (in line with the axle). It also uses a T70 torx bit. That should be clue enough. I don't have a shot of it, but you need to take off a cover to access it. The FSM has generic images of the area that aren't so great, so I hope mine are helpful. Torque Specs: 36.9 lb/ft torque on 8mm hex, 51.6 lb/ft on T70 drain Quantity: ~1 quart (until overflow is achieved) Fluid Type: 75w90 (I used Amsoil) Rear Differential: Rear differential is much easier. I don't have any photos for it. If you wanna see it, just tilt your head sideways under the back of the car like you're 16 and looking up a hottie's dress. Two 8mm hex fasteners that need to come out. Always do the fill first (in case you can't get it out). I had the car up in the air for this. It may be doable on the ground, but it'd be tough. Plus, the drain plug was on tight!! Torque Specs: 36.9 lb/ft torque (fill & drain) Quantity: ~1 quart (until overflow is achieved) Fluid Type: 75w90 (I used Amsoil) Both front and rear fluids looked pretty good at 15k. The rear diff drain plug magnet was LOADED and all gunked up. Glad I changed it out, and while the magnet was nasty, I'd recommend 30k for the first change just based on the fluid. The magnet did it's job though. Also, there are washers on there that should be replaced, although I didn't. Hope this helps the next person!