Enlight Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 Cleaned up one of the chassis bolt holes the rear trailing arm attaches to. Only took three taps to find out. It's 14mm x 1.5mm, contrary to what other forums might tell you. The mosquitoes are eating me alive out there. Welp, found out the holes will not hold to torque spec. I think it's still safe to drive on given that there are two other bolts but not happy I need to drop $40 on another helicoil kit. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 (edited) Man things I'm not looking forward to uncovering myself right there. Why $40 kit? Can you not just buy a helicoil insert? Edited September 22, 2021 by seanyb505 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 That's a good idea so I looked into it, it turns out the special tap for the inserts are non-standard. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 I don't have many photos taken, or really anything useful beyond the finished product. But none the less, here's what I did. There's a seller on eBay who sells the faceplate, euro/JDM matched in color. So you grab one of those, they make it for both LHD and RHD. If you want the seller, PM me as I'm not sure if it's allowed by the rules to post a direct link. Thanks for great info, this is nice. In you photos the color looks all black vs OEM silver though. Is the front panel all black or was that just how photos came out? 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty9 Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Not to put madrig on the spot, but he's supposedly working on a euro spec setup in cf. I'm sure he's got alot of other work on his plate, so no idea of timeline Great, just spent hundreds on OEM center console & bezel parts and now I'll spend thousands on CF bits to replace it all lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Great, just spent hundreds on OEM center console & bezel parts and now I'll spend thousands on CF bits to replace it all lol As a hobby, the lgt has always delivered. It was expensive to buy, expensive to maintain, costs a fortune to insure, has limited aftermarket parts, and everything is hard to do. Replacing bits with cf just seems normal stuff at this point. Maybe I misunderstand the issue? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 I need a bezel for my clock/trip computer relocation. I've got it mocked up reasonably well, but I don't know how or have the skills to finish it properly.. Anyone with fabrication or printing able to make that happen? EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 (edited) I thought someone already made a 3D bezel for it. There is thread somewhere about it. --> https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wa-eatinginternets-3d-prints-double-din-adapter-clock-relocation-and-283742.html Not sure if he still makes them. Edited September 23, 2021 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 As a hobby, the lgt has always delivered. It was expensive to buy, expensive to maintain, costs a fortune to insure, has limited aftermarket parts, and everything is hard to do. Replacing bits with cf just seems normal stuff at this point. Maybe I misunderstand the issue? Stay stock, stay happy 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 I thought someone already made a 3D bezel for it. There is thread somewhere about it. --> https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wa-eatinginternets-3d-prints-double-din-adapter-clock-relocation-and-283742.html Not sure if he still makes them. Thank you! Guess I should have searched EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finsta Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Thanks for great info, this is nice. In you photos the color looks all black vs OEM silver though. Is the front panel all black or was that just how photos came out? Hi, Not sure if I replied to this in the PM but it's all black. I did the Euro facelift interior so it all matches. That said, if you want to vinyl wrap your shift surround black to match everything, 3M 1080 matte black is a good match! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 I finally took the time to install my LGT brakes. OBP paint-matched LGT calipers all around. Centric blanks. Mach V/Technafit lines. Project MU BSpecs. HardBrakes titanium brake shims. And some delicious ATE Type 200 to top it all off. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tehspud Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 I finally took the time to install my LGT brakes. OBP paint-matched LGT calipers all around. Centric blanks. Mach V/Technafit lines. Project MU BSpecs. HardBrakes titanium brake shims. And some delicious ATE Type 200 to top it all off. Third pic makes me miss my RPF1s. Might have to shell out for what would be my third set of them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Looks great FM, nice job with the calipers. I put LGT front brakes on my Forester and it was a significant upgrade. Don't think the rears will fit, but very happy EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Stay stock, stay happy I have a garage full of that failure... Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 (edited) I put in 5 gallons of gas into the freshly installed fuel tank today but the pump would not turn on when I turned the key to the ON position. I'm only reading 3.1v at the fuel pump - I'm not sure how to continue diagnosing this. Follow-up edit: Swapped relays (in the passenger side glove compartment) and there's no change, still reading 3.1v at the fuel pump plug. The 15a fuel pump fuse is fine. When I turn the car off it reads 0v. I think my next step is to check the Fuel Pump Control Unit under the rear quarter trim. I doubt it's a grounding issue, car cranks just fine. I don't have the patience to set up a bench test for the relays. Edited September 25, 2021 by Enlight muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Grounding issue? What does the engine bay fuel pump relay read? I have no idea what I'm talking about, just where I would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 I put in 5 gallons of gas into the freshly installed fuel tank today but the pump would not turn on when I turned the key to the ON position. I'm only reading 3.1v at the fuel pump - I'm not sure how to continue diagnosing this. Follow-up edit: Swapped relays (in the passenger side glove compartment) and there's no change, still reading 3.1v at the fuel pump plug. The 15a fuel pump fuse is fine. When I turn the car off it reads 0v. I think my next step is to check the Fuel Pump Control Unit under the rear quarter trim. I doubt it's a grounding issue, car cranks just fine. I don't have the patience to set up a bench test for the relays. Got to be pump connector/harness if nothing else was changed in electrical. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Got to be pump connector/harness if nothing else was changed in electrical. I took a closer look at the connectors which were out in the elements while I was painting my new tank - there was some corrosion. I used isopropyl to clean up the recessed contacts to the extent I could and the voltage jumped up 0.5v. I'm dipping those connectors in distilled and gonna see whether there's improvement tomorrow. muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Cassady Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Unfortunately no Wagonfest for any of us Canadian wagons. Next year hopefully! 2006 Legacy GT Wagon - Regamasters, Evo X Recaros, STI 6MT, Brembo 6-Pots (in progress) @regashiii Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Unfortunately no Wagonfest for any of us Canadian wagons. Next year hopefully! That's wack! I was routing for the border to open up just for this event. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) Wideband O2 still reading dangerously lean under boost. Car pulling as hard and smoothly as ever despite the WBO2 reading with no unexpected knock. Must be a borked sensor or exhaust leak Also still have a persistent smell of something burning when the car's warm and comes to a stop with HVAC set to vent. Doesn't smell like (engine) oil, coolant, or PS fluid/ATF. Also doesn't smell like the burning plastic from the wheel well plastics (from the short period of time when the pop-its broke and it was rubbing against the tire). Nothing obvious sniffing around under the hood after parking. So at a loss for what it could be, since all the fluids aren't depleting and there's no smoke. Maybe something residual in the cabin filter? Or is it just a lingering "new motor smell?" Edited September 26, 2021 by solidxsnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Warmed her up, drove her around and did about 4 laps around the empty busy streets after my daughters swimming class and Dirty Penny still getting dirty screaming her ewg pipes as I smile with a big grin over and over. There was a new Acura TLX type S that was about to roll up next to me, but heard the EWG and stayed back On that note, I may put a feeler/for sale ad really soon. I feel sad to even post this but since turning 40 and having an Accord, I kinda like the slow paced and quieter life. My 5 year old daughter loved my Subie but we shall see what is to come. 6 speed swap and shortblock or a new car is in play for sure. Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm200 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Replaced the beyond spent OEM struts (215k miles) with some pretty low mile JDM Rev.C struts, complete with springs, dust covers and top hats. Super easy swap considering the miles and being around New England winters for 12 years. None of the bolts put up much of a fight. Should have done this years ago, wouldn’t have thought the car could feel this good again. Some saggy spacers might be on order soon. Also found a torn axle boot, new axle up next along with some rear pads and rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Ok, so… I replaced my knock sensor with the one from NAPA a while back… well, the dagblasted thing keeps throwing codes at random for circuit high/circuit low. I decided to pull it out, THOROUGHLY clean the mounting surface and the base of the sensor and PROPERLY torque it down, at the correct installation angle… I’ll have to follow up again after I’ve driven on it for a while. Picking up a set of spec.b struts for front and rear in a week.. from a guy…. Pretty sure they’re off the same car I got my turbo and transmission from when I replaced those on my last LGT. [emoji2369] I really need to get started on the subiesavers quarter rust repair. It’s getting worse.. ..And I still need a rust-free BSM/SIL wingless trunk lid. Up to 187,000 miles on this rusty shitheap and it still drives better than anything else I’ve ever owned (except for my ‘06 LGT) Might replace the transmission.. idk.. the 3-4 upshift is kinda harsh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now