What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[lagwagon]

Installed the KYB strut plus rear shocks on my wife’s car. Install went ok other than the bolt in the knuckle adjacent the shock bolt was the wrong way around so I couldn’t get a socket on the shock nut on the drivers side. The new mounts do not use a dog point stud so with 1/4” spacers there is full thread engagement.

 

The new springs have a full extra coil on them and the rear is sitting 2” higher than it was before so hopefully it settles a bit but I can’t see more than an inch of settlement occurring. The rear actually sits higher than the front now (rake).

 

Ride quality seems pretty good. Much better than what I put on the front a couple years ago.

 

Considering these are meant for a sedan I’m not sure how well they would work in that application. Don’t sedan springs usually lower the rear of a wagon?

[BoozeRS05]

FINALLY broke those MFing front strut bolts, and was able to finish installing my FA500 coilovers. Sooo satisfied

[Febreze Mee]

FINALLY broke those MFing front strut bolts, and was able to finish installing my FA500 coilovers. Sooo satisfied

 

I've decided I will be rebuilding my BCs come time, but FAs were in close competition when I was deciding on suspension for the wagon. The RX-7, however, will be getting FAs.

[Gex]

So, after driving several cars (C63 amg, Alfa Quadrifolio, M3, and a X5M for good measure). I cannot find anything I like more than my wagon for under $50k. Member HKC speed just so happens to have an unlimited RBP wagon missing an engine and transmission. I will be picking it up next week. I’m getting my baby back. Version 2.0 going to be amazing. Maybe even have a running and driving car by Wagonfest.

 

Also, my EVO4 just shipped from Japan! Hopefully here first week in October. Pretty stoked about that. I will have my ST205 Celica and Starlet GTTurbo out at Radwood tomorrow. Happy days.

[boxkita]

Happy for you, Gex!

[cajunAsian]

heys, new to the forums, but I have been reading a lot of post on here for about 4 months now, just a few months before I bought my first Subaru. so this past month I installed some coilers, new breaks, tinted my windows, did a steering wheel swap, installed a new stereo, new head lights, got a pair of OEM foglights, and working on getting a engine swap... if its worth it , or try to get a turbo installed. ill figure out how to add pictures later and add them . I wish parts didn't cost as much ... really hurting the bank account.

Edited September 19, 2021 by cajunAsian
adding pics

[SubOperator]

So, after driving several cars (C63 amg, Alfa Quadrifolio, M3, and a X5M for good measure). I cannot find anything I like more than my wagon for under $50k. Member HKC speed just so happens to have an unlimited RBP wagon missing an engine and transmission. I will be picking it up next week. I’m getting my baby back. Version 2.0 going to be amazing. Maybe even have a running and driving car by Wagonfest.

 

Also, my EVO4 just shipped from Japan! Hopefully here first week in October. Pretty stoked about that. I will have my ST205 Celica and Starlet GTTurbo out at Radwood tomorrow. Happy days.

 

 

Great news, thank you for making that decision!

[tehspud]

I think last I checked in I had just installed the catless upppipe I had laying around. Had to replace the front O2 sensor because of all that. Also had to do the driver's side front wheel bearing, as it was starting to hum at freeway speeds. During all that I looked at the front suspension bushings. So now I've got a pile of Whiteline goodies to get on, hopefully before Wagonfest. Oh, I also took the wagon to it's yearly autocross a couple weekends ago. One of these days I'm going to get back onto decent tires.

 

Top tip, if you haven't done any of these bushings yet (Front LCA, steering rack, and positive shift kit), whiteline # WEK079 is a kit with all of them included. Import Image Racing has that kit for $192, and the cost of KCA334 is generally around $160 alone, so it's definitely a good deal. It's listed for 08-14 WRX/09-13 Forester, but it's all the same parts for (at least) the BL/BP Legacy

[JMack]

I think last I checked in I had just installed the catless upppipe I had laying around. Had to replace the front O2 sensor because of all that. Also had to do the driver's side front wheel bearing, as it was starting to hum at freeway speeds. During all that I looked at the front suspension bushings. So now I've got a pile of Whiteline goodies to get on, hopefully before Wagonfest. Oh, I also took the wagon to it's yearly autocross a couple weekends ago. One of these days I'm going to get back onto decent tires.

 

Top tip, if you haven't done any of these bushings yet (Front LCA, steering rack, and positive shift kit), whiteline # WEK079 is a kit with all of them included. Import Image Racing has that kit for $192, and the cost of KCA334 is generally around $160 alone, so it's definitely a good deal. It's listed for 08-14 WRX/09-13 Forester, but it's all the same parts for (at least) the BL/BP Legacy

 

Does this fit the Aluminum FCA's? I am looking at getting a set, but was wondering if getting used and replacing the bushings would be the best bet? I am starting to get some sloppy feelings in the front.

 

FWIW - Amazon has them for the same price (WEK079) $192.57

Edited September 20, 2021 by JMack
adding information

[tehspud]

Does this fit the Aluminum FCA's? I am looking at getting a set, but was wondering if getting used and replacing the bushings would be the best bet? I am starting to get some sloppy feelings in the front.

 

Like the spec-b aluminum front arms? Yeah I'm pretty sure it's the same bushing part numbers. KCA334 (offset/added caster) & W0506.

 

I'm still debating if I want hold off and go that route as well. Either the mevotech ones or just keep an eye out for used ones.

[seanyb505]

Same whiteline parts between steel and aluminum control arms. Aluminum ones will need the ball joint sleeve. I pressed the sleeve off my mevotech ball joints to use with the whiteline kit.

[finsta]

Today I just finished cobbling together my "USDM" double din setup. You can get faceplates for the double din as a single unit from a seller in Russia off eBay. The double din brackets mount right up and then I gutted a dual zone climate radio from Europe. Works perfectly, don't have that famous dim AC display that the JDM double DINs are known for.

[Neal Cassady]

What's involved with the gutting?

[solidxsnake]

Last weekend, noticed the car was running lean under boost (major stumbling, knock correction, measuring around ~1.0 lambda during WOT pulls ). Think I solved that and tracked down the issue to improperly installed fuel pump. Pulled it and swapped from the 2 o-ring approach that's all over forums to just using the OEM o-ring and plastic retainer piece.

 

 

Car is running as it did before now, however, my WBO2 is still reading quite lean under WOT. Stock sensor is pegging down where it usually does and the car doesn't feel like it's running as lean as the WBO2 indicates. Also not getting any knock correction, so I think it's a false reading. Haven't pinned down the issue yet, I suspect an exhaust leak, perhaps at the slip joint of my Tomei ELH. Maybe it's time to upgrade to the Killer B headers....

[xt2005bonbon]

mmmh, that's a good point solidxsnake. Interestingly, I have been suffering from a lean condition as well within a very specific MAF range still within vacuum (35-50 g/s). Looked for any vac leak and could not find any. BUT, I do have a fairly large exhaust leak at the uppipe right before the turbo (cracked Invidia ). I wonder if it would affect the AFR readings even though it is a little after the O2 sensor.. In any case, I need to fix it.

[BoozeRS05]

Well it looks like I'm going back to heavy 18's. Got a good deal though and kind of excited.

[tehspud]

Well it looks like I'm going back to heavy 18's. Got a good deal though and kind of excited.

 

Are you converted to 5x114.3? Or are those some special 5x100 sti wheels I've never seen before?

[BoozeRS05]

Sent an order for 15mm conversion spacers last night.

 

The wheels have deep pockets on the hubs to accommodate poking stock studs and will end up at an 18x8.5 +40. Should be able to fit a 235/40/18 pretty easily now that I have coilovers and once I get the KTA124 rear arms installed.

[boxkita]

looking for a low mileage 5mt wagon?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/md-5spd-2005-legacy-gt-wagon-286849.html?t=286849

[SubOperator]

ugh, I should have held myself from looking at it. 6K is sweet for this based on pics.

[finsta]

What's involved with the gutting?

I don't have many photos taken, or really anything useful beyond the finished product. But none the less, here's what I did.

 

There's a seller on eBay who sells the faceplate, euro/JDM matched in color. So you grab one of those, they make it for both LHD and RHD. If you want the seller, PM me as I'm not sure if it's allowed by the rules to post a direct link.

 

Then you would need a LHD Euro(assuming whoever is reading this has a USDM car) radio. Emphasis on the Euro, reasoning is that the AC and stereo are split into two modules. USDM radios are all integrated. This is the secret sauce. Part number for me was 86201AG460.

 

Now for the gutting, well you need to pretty much unscrew everything. The new eBay piece needs the VFD filter, (which is the fix to the dim AC screen), temp stickers, buttons and so on. The AC portion is split into two circuit boards with an internal connector holding the two together. You would take them out, remove the membrane and plastic button caps for AC, mode, fan speed along with the trim rings for the knobs then place them in the new faceplate. There is a ribbon cable on the front-most AC board that attaches to the radio portion, you can just remove it. I haven't had issues.

 

To get the VFD filter out, you need to take apart the stereo portion as there is a metal plate that blocks it. Pop it out, pushing towards the back. There's a bit of adhesive so you would need to press down on one clip at a time and it will eventually give. Pop that piece into the new faceplate. Bolt everything into the new faceplate using the same screws.

 

At this point, you could put in your hazard button and attach the mounting brackets from the euro radio. Then you're done. You still need the i85 and i88 harnesses though.

 

After writing this all up, I wish I had more photos...

Edited September 24, 2021 by finsta

[Rusty9]

You know I just saw that guy on ebay and I ordered just the top section from him, now I see he's got the whole thing as one piece which is nice, and LHD so it lines up correctly unlike the JDM one, and the Auto/Off and defrosters will be on the familiar side as well. The ebay item# is 153173478907. Ships from Russia, but I got mine in a week or so.

 

Now I need to ask him if he can get the LHD Euro shifter surround and ashtray thingy in black to match.

[Neal Cassady]

Thanks finsta! Turned out great, I had a sliver of hope you'd say you also found a clever way to split the USDM radio/hvac, but euro parts aren't too bad to get these days from Russia at least.

[boxkita]

You know I just saw that guy on ebay and I ordered just the top section from him, now I see he's got the whole thing as one piece which is nice, and LHD so it lines up correctly unlike the JDM one, and the Auto/Off and defrosters will be on the familiar side as well. The ebay item# is 153173478907. Ships from Russia, but I got mine in a week or so.

 

Now I need to ask him if he can get the LHD Euro shifter surround and ashtray thingy in black to match.

 

Not to put madrig on the spot, but he's supposedly working on a euro spec setup in cf. I'm sure he's got alot of other work on his plate, so no idea of timeline

[finsta]

Not to put madrig on the spot, but he's supposedly working on a euro spec setup in cf. I'm sure he's got alot of other work on his plate, so no idea of timeline

 

My body is ready. madrig, if you need help with anything, ie parts, let me know!