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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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51 minutes ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Finally got my rear brakes done, thankfully this time no sheared bolts. Finally got an electric impact, which makes a huuuuge difference breaking free 18 yr old rusted bolts. Had to turn it up on high for the drivers side to break away the bolts but it’s done. 😮💨

only thing now is I need the replacement caliper bolts to come in, lost one while I was cleaning them with my bench grinder. 
also, is there something wrong with this picture? Seems like the curved part should be in the curved portion of the casting but it seems like it’s off just enough to keep the bolts from engaging. Is this wrong? Cars gonna be parked anyway while I wait for new hardware. 

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That is correct as is. The flat bit won’t turn when it hits that ‘ear’ on the caliper carrier.

Else you’d never be able to tighten the caliper slide bolt.

Also, silicon grease is awesome for those slide pins once you’ve got the new ones, and the old grease out. It is good for crazy high temps, and won’t cause the rubber boots or anti-rattle bumper to swell and tear since it’s non-petroleum based. It’s kinda spendy for a jar, but will last a long time.

Edited by KZJonny
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Appreciate the feedback. I cleaned the pins and applied new grease to them. Think I’m gonna replace the calipers all the way around this summer anyway. I’d like to paint my calipers but also noticed the piston boot rubber has seen better days. Right now I’d just like to get the car fixed and back on the road since it’s a daily. 

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12 hours ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Counting down the days until tax season is over and I have enough free time to finish getting the car tuned. In the meantime this arrived today. Baby is getting a butt lift. 🍑

20230330_185300.jpg

hey ! i need that bumper ! 

look who added some work to my table !  great , now i have to stop to be lazy ! 

IMG_0048[1].JPG

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Well, I have been gone a while, but I bought a 2009 Legacy 2.5i sedan (not running) to part out and replace some bits for my 05 wagon.

On a side note, if anyone is in or near Ohio and needs something specific (interior is trashed), let me know!

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15 hours ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Counting down the days until tax season is over and I have enough free time to finish getting the car tuned. In the meantime this arrived today. Baby is getting a butt lift. 🍑

20230330_185300.jpg

Mind sharing where you sourced that?

A JDM/EDM rear bumper is about the only cosmetic thing I’d like to do to my car… everything I’m finding is in the $1K neighbourhood, which *seemed* a little crazy to me, but is maybe just the price of entry?

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1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Mind sharing where you sourced that?

A JDM/EDM rear bumper is about the only cosmetic thing I’d like to do to my car… everything I’m finding is in the $1K neighbourhood, which *seemed* a little crazy to me, but is maybe just the price of entry?

That price seems accurate (if not low) if it includes all of the supporting bits.  Looking back at my records, I paid ~$1500 in 2014 for the JDM Spec B bumper, grille, fogs, fender liners, undertray, brackets, etc..  You have to remember to consider the cost of shipping those large parts across an ocean.

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1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Mind sharing where you sourced that?

A JDM/EDM rear bumper is about the only cosmetic thing I’d like to do to my car… everything I’m finding is in the $1K neighbourhood, which *seemed* a little crazy to me, but is maybe just the price of entry?

$1k for just the parts or all in incl shipping? If total, that's not bad.

Sourced it from the Japan auctions/buyee. Bumper was cheap, less than $200, but shipping was the real bitch ($1.8k), so all in ~$2k. Shipping probably could have been a good bit cheaper if sea mail was an option but once you get into the oversize category on the auctions your forced to use DHL and they deliver in 3 days so not much you can do.

These bumpers can still be bought new from Japanparts.com (link below), but even the sea-mail option is comparable to the DHL/buyee so I'd rather pay essentially the same price for way less wait time and a lower risk of potential damage. 

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/?id=32010#calc_result

 

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17 hours ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Counting down the days until tax season is over and I have enough free time to finish getting the car tuned. In the meantime this arrived today. Baby is getting a butt lift. 🍑

20230330_185300.jpg

That’s gonna look so awesome…can’t wait to see that on it! 

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2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Mind sharing where you sourced that?

A JDM/EDM rear bumper is about the only cosmetic thing I’d like to do to my car… everything I’m finding is in the $1K neighbourhood, which *seemed* a little crazy to me, but is maybe just the price of entry?

Check out JDM racing motors-they’re in QC, you might have better luck with them since they’re already in Canada. Seem to have good prices for stuff, too, it’s just a matter of them having what you’re looking for…

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10 minutes ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Check out JDM racing motors-they’re in QC, you might have better luck with them since they’re already in Canada. Seem to have good prices for stuff, too, it’s just a matter of them having what you’re looking for…

Sweet thanks. I will take a look. There are a couple of places in the GTA as well, which is where I was seeing the $1K price tags. There are a few other places in NA that have slightly better pricing, but then I'd be shipping a bumper, which probably makes it a little silly. So, ~$8 hundo USD and local pickup is a pretty good deal. Of course it would need paint, but then, so does the entire car, so whatever.

It's not the vented aftermarket style, but again I think I'd rather stay with "stock" parts. Even if stock from another market!

I'm doing my best to stay stock/sleeper (not that it's that fast of a car anyway), so I hadn't planned on doing anything which would indicate that car is anything but stock, until I saw an EDM bumper somewhere on here. It may be the only styling thing about the stock car that I really think needs improving. Guess I'm just into a nice, slim rear end....?!

 

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Had a problem where my AF started jumping all over the place a few days ago, thought it was my MAF since I had replaced the O2 at the end of Jan.  So replaced the MAF and it got much better at idle, but would still bounce around at light/partial throttle.  So I believe I had a dying MAF that killed my 2 month old O2 sensor.  Contacted Amazon & Denso, and neither will warranty it.  Denso says Amazon isn't an authorized seller for Denso, and Amazon is saying to contact denso since it is over the 30 return period.   Ordered a new one from Rockauto, which hopefully fixes my issue.

Coles notes don't order sensors from Amazon, let my first and last time be all you need to know about it.

 

In preparation for this PA meet, I started sanding, filling, and priming the spats, stakes, duckbill & JDM optional front lip.  Not sure if you can see how bad the scratches were in the front lip but they were pretty deep.  I have about 10hrs into these parts right now, and I will probably have a few more into them since I found a couple of spots that need addressing after laying down the primer.  Everything will be sprayed with a rattle can so not looking for show quality but if I can get it looking good from 2-5ft away I will be very happy with the outcome.

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#LGTSTi is still cheaper and nicer then an equal year wrxsti

Follow my 2007 Spec B. Build here

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19 hours ago, tysparks81 said:

Had a problem where my AF started jumping all over the place a few days ago, thought it was my MAF since I had replaced the O2 at the end of Jan.  So replaced the MAF and it got much better at idle, but would still bounce around at light/partial throttle.  So I believe I had a dying MAF that killed my 2 month old O2 sensor.  Contacted Amazon & Denso, and neither will warranty it.  Denso says Amazon isn't an authorized seller for Denso, and Amazon is saying to contact denso since it is over the 30 return period.   Ordered a new one from Rockauto, which hopefully fixes my issue.

Coles notes don't order sensors from Amazon, let my first and last time be all you need to know about it.

 

In preparation for this PA meet, I started sanding, filling, and priming the spats, stakes, duckbill & JDM optional front lip.  Not sure if you can see how bad the scratches were in the front lip but they were pretty deep.  I have about 10hrs into these parts right now, and I will probably have a few more into them since I found a couple of spots that need addressing after laying down the primer.  Everything will be sprayed with a rattle can so not looking for show quality but if I can get it looking good from 2-5ft away I will be very happy with the outcome.

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denzo aftermarket are definitely not he same as subaru eom . i learn it the hard way with the AF sensor. it is not he same standard  . i never buy  aftermarket again !     

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On 3/31/2023 at 2:59 PM, KZJonny said:

Sweet thanks. I will take a look. There are a couple of places in the GTA as well, which is where I was seeing the $1K price tags. There are a few other places in NA that have slightly better pricing, but then I'd be shipping a bumper, which probably makes it a little silly. So, ~$8 hundo USD and local pickup is a pretty good deal. Of course it would need paint, but then, so does the entire car, so whatever.

It's not the vented aftermarket style, but again I think I'd rather stay with "stock" parts. Even if stock from another market!

I'm doing my best to stay stock/sleeper (not that it's that fast of a car anyway), so I hadn't planned on doing anything which would indicate that car is anything but stock, until I saw an EDM bumper somewhere on here. It may be the only styling thing about the stock car that I really think needs improving. Guess I'm just into a nice, slim rear end....?!

 

No problem! Yeah I figured GTA probably has a few places that would import…I’m just not around enough to know who would do that up there. I found a nice used RBP JDM rear bumper on BeforeAuto and it was $1800 all said and done ($100 something fro bumper and $1600 shipping)…😕 So yeah if you find one for less than $1k US with pick up jump on that…

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Alrighty,

Guess who's back? I've been away for a while since I've have a lot of job bouncing (the joys of being a contract worker) and working multiple jobs at the same time. But yeah, I did the thing. Finally. Painted Audi's Sonoma Green Metallic. The shop I worked with was wonderful and went all out. JDM facelift front end and USDM facelift rear. Ceramic coated and PPF'd and some extra JDM goodies if you can spot 'em.

Car has been in storage since November so I haven't been around to mention it, coupled with the work chaos. I have a few things to deal with still and need to inquire the hivemind about:

1) When they took off the vapor barriers for the paint, they got stretched and aren't in good enough shape to place back (the SIA factory guys just gobbed that butyl on). As a result, I was thinking of having an AV shop Dynamat the doors. However, my windows have those interior scratches from the felt. I thought it was initially just the tint that was scratched but apparently not. My concern is if I have the doors dynamat'd and I should repair the window glass or a regulator in the future, I fear it may be stupid hard to get to.

2) My fobs no longer engage power locking or the trunk opening. I'm guessing maybe a fuse or something popped. Anybody have leads or suggestions?

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56 minutes ago, Enlight said:

If they do the job properly, the Dynamat will on on the sheet metal itself and not cover anything.

I've never applied anything like it before but from all the videos I've seen, people just run wide sheets of it and would cover where the service areas would be. I don't think I'd be able to change a window regulator or the glass if this was the case like in the photo below.

dynamat.png

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Ok, I see what you're saying. That would indeed make it a B. Knowing how shops are, they usually like to stick to how they've been doing things, I don't know if they would be willing it to stick it directly to the exterior skin. That being said, there are plenty of aftermarket vapor barriers out there.

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On 3/30/2023 at 4:54 PM, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Appreciate the feedback. I cleaned the pins and applied new grease to them. Think I’m gonna replace the calipers all the way around this summer anyway. I’d like to paint my calipers but also noticed the piston boot rubber has seen better days. Right now I’d just like to get the car fixed and back on the road since it’s a daily. 

Lube everything. I have done this to my 2006, and my car is very easy to take things apart.

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Took the LGT to the first 2023 NER SCCA autocross on Sunday. Cold tires was hilarious on the start, couldn't go WOT at the start without the car wanting to spin all four tires and go sideways :lol:

Been looking into brake upgrades for my LGT so I'll feel more comfortable on track... STI master cylinder and brace is obvious, but undecided on what (or if) I want to upgrade to better hardware itself (namely, to a fixed-caliper system). I'd really like to stick with 17s, so I think that rules out '04 STi Brembos?

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34 minutes ago, solidxsnake said:

Took the LGT to the first 2023 NER SCCA autocross on Sunday. Cold tires was hilarious on the start, couldn't go WOT at the start without the car wanting to spin all four tires and go sideways :lol:

Been looking into brake upgrades for my LGT so I'll feel more comfortable on track... STI master cylinder and brace is obvious, but undecided on what (or if) I want to upgrade to better hardware itself (namely, to a fixed-caliper system). I'd really like to stick with 17s, so I think that rules out '04 STi Brembos?

04 STI came with Brembos and 17s. Lots of 17” will clear. I have a set of 17” PF1 for the Camel. 
 

Speaking of. Camel got fresh fluids this weekend. Track day at the Ridge Saturday. Should be a blast!

 

 

EE79DA00-F15C-4830-909F-1A11367C44F7.jpeg

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Noted... also, on further reading, seems I don't want to actually bother with the STi MC swap, since the swap is to move to the pre-VDC one from the '04-'07 STi. Unsure if the '08+ STi brake booster is worth swapping for. Perhaps I'll start with just the master cylinder brace and perhaps adjust the pedal clevis pin to see if it improves the pedal feel enough.

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