What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

[NoOne1223]

Got STI rack swapped in today. Relatively painless, besides having to pull it back down to adjust steering wheel orientation.

 

It fixed my bad pop near steering lock. Fluttering clunks still remained. Lightbulb went off. Checked nut that holds damper rod in top hat bearing. Sure enough it was loose. Never thought to check it, I purchased struts fully assembled. Glad I caught that before it backed out completely, that would have been BAD, like really bad. I was considering just trying to ignore it for a few weeks before I finally found culprit.

 

To anyone else who orders used Bilsteins : Don't assume strut rod is properly secured to top-hat.

 

EDIT : What I found odd was that the nut and rod had a paint stripe on them noting orientation. With paint stripes aligned nut was only finger tight. Once properly torqued paint marks did not line up anymore. Was this never torqued from the factory?

 

Definitely sounds like the nut wasn't torqued. That definitely makes me question if I should even consider aftermarket Bilsteins for my GT amongst all manufacturers

[bubbagump]

Definitely sounds like the nut wasn't torqued. That definitely makes me question if I should even consider aftermarket Bilsteins for my GT amongst all manufacturers

 

I wouldn't let my experience scare you off Bilstein's. They have a pretty good reputation best I can tell. I will count mine as a fluke. I am sure you can do better than the OEM Bilstein's, but I am trying to keep my car as "stock-ish" as possible. Staying in the Subaru family of parts. I am not entirely sure why I'm doing this, I guess I assume I will run into fewer issues? That is proving not to be completely true but so far so good.

[rhino6303]

Need a recommendation for a good fuel pump for my ‘05.

 

I’m pretty sure my AEM 50-1000 is going out.

If the tank is full I’m at 45 psi idle and 49psi at 75 mph.

But at half a tank it’s down to the upper 30s at 75 and will quit around 1/4 tank.

I think it’s over heating when there isn’t much fuel left in the tank.

Left me stranded for 15 min twice in NM today.

Hoping to get something over nighted to the hotel to replace in Flagstaff.

I'm more curious if all of the pump housing orings need replaced. If one is even slightly damaged it may cause your issues.

 

How old is your aem pump? Did you buy it new or used?

[Infosecdad]

I'm more curious if all of the pump housing orings need replaced. If one is even slightly damaged it may cause your issues.

 

How old is your aem pump? Did you buy it new or used?

 

I installed it new four years ago.

 

I thought about the o-rings, but why now after four years; and why does the pressure increase when it cools down?

[Max Capacity]

I believe the AEM-340 is the new pump you want.

[awfulwaffle]

Seconded. Note that the 340 lph rating is attainable only at the rated voltage, which our cars definitely don't supply. I ended up following Underdog's rewire and picked up a good margin (IIRC the voltage at the pump went from ~8.5V to ~11V at 100% DC). Also learned through that process that the FPCM from an R34 GTR is plug and play with our cars, and provides more chooch up top than the Subaru-spec FPCM. Ran my car with one for a bit and everything, as a shopmate had one sitting around. It's about 2-3x the size.

[ChadChrist]

Outback struts will lift your legacy. OEM Outback springs will not lift your legacy. If you're looking for a lot of lift and to do it the best possible way and retain the suspension geometry, look at the removing outback subframe spacer threads and do the opposite

 

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Well being not-so-car savvy, hopefully i can figure out how to do a process backwards.

 

 

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[norutah]

Well being not-so-car savvy, hopefully i can figure out how to do a process backwards.

 

 

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If you choose to install the subframe spacers it is very straight forward and sourcing the parts will be very easy as there are a lot more Outbacks in the junkyards than legacy. Review the removal threads to see what parts you will need. Swapping the rear upper control arms and bump stops will not be required because that is a travel requirement for lowering.

You will need the driveshaft, front and rear subframe spacers and bolts, steering linkage, front lower control arm studs and stud plates, shift linkage, rear trailing arm brackets, trans crossmember. It can easily be done in an afternoon. Source the parts and I'll gladly walk you thru it.

You will also need adjustable rear arms to get your alignment dialed after the lift. My preference is the whiteline kta124.

 

 

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Edited June 7, 2021 by norutah

[Infosecdad]

I believe the AEM-340 is the new pump you want.

 

Seconded. Note that the 340 lph rating is attainable only at the rated voltage, which our cars definitely don't supply. I ended up following Underdog's rewire and picked up a good margin (IIRC the voltage at the pump went from ~8.5V to ~11V at 100% DC). Also learned through that process that the FPCM from an R34 GTR is plug and play with our cars, and provides more chooch up top than the Subaru-spec FPCM. Ran my car with one for a bit and everything, as a shopmate had one sitting around. It's about 2-3x the size.

 

Thanks guys, I'm assuming that's basically this one: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/fuel-system/subaru-aem-high-flow-fuel-pump-05-09-lgt-08-14-wrx-08-20-sti

 

I'm at the beginning of a two week road trip with my older son, not really interested in seeing how long it takes to completely fail so I'm trying to find a place in Flagstaff with it or get it overnighted.

 

I know there is a small chance it could just be o-rings, but I don't want to tear it apart, do that, and find out it was the pump after all. Plus, the symptoms yesterday don't point to o-rings for me.

 

We were driving on the interstate at 80 and she would start bucking when any throttle was given. BtSSM told me she was running really lean, just wasn't getting fuel; everything else was great, no misfires, nothing, just no fuel. The engine died and we rolled on the shoulder, and she wouldn't start. I thought oh-crap timing... but that didn't see right. Let here sit for 5 min, checked out under the hood, everything looked great. Switched my TGV override from oil pressure to fuel pressure, and climbed back in. Primed the fuel pump 3-4 times and she started, did not want to go, died again after 30 sec. Did this a couple of times, then just sat for 10 min talking through possible root causes. Settled on bad gas or failing pump. We have 1/4 tank of fuel and 15 miles to the next station. I have some royal purple octane cleaner/boost that I can use with new fuel.

 

After the 10 min, the car starts and runs like nothing was wrong.

We get going again, but about 10 min later, she does it again and quits. But this time I had the fuel pressure sensor up on BtSSM (THANK YOU FOR BTSSM!), and found out that the pressure was just dropping, it couldn't hold. When it dies, the FP is in the teens. No wonder there was no fuel. We sat and let it cool for ten min, then started again and made it the remaining distance to the station. Added 8 gal of fuel and the octane booster (in case it was bad gas). She starts up and idles at 43 psi, rolling down the hwy at high 40's for 75-80 mph.

 

Fast forward a few hours and we are dropping below half a tank and I'm watching the fuel pressure drop, it's now high 30's for cruising... Stop and fill the tank again, back to good pressure. Manage to roll into Flagstaff only 2 hours late.

 

After all that, I'm fairly certain it's the pump failing and as the tank drains, the heat sink leaves. The pump starts heating up and pressure drops, get the tank too low on a long drive and the pump overheats.

 

I think we can make it up to the grand canyon and back (90 min each way) if I have a pump coming overnight; if I can find one local, I just replace it today before anything else. Sorry for the novel...

 

I have the FPCM with the heavier wiring and such back home that I'll install when I get back, just need to keep her reliable for a couple weeks until then.

Edited June 7, 2021 by Infosecdad

[xt2005bonbon]

I have actually never heard of such an issue before.

 

 

 

Side question, not helping with the problem: did you slightly adjust your timing map when you switched from 93 to 91?

 

 

You'll remember this road trip for sure... Last time I did it, I 'just' had to deal with torn cv boots and change a front wheel bearing. Luckily, I brought all my tools too!

 

 

And yes, BTSSM FTW!

[Infosecdad]

I have actually never heard of such an issue before.

 

 

 

Side question, not helping with the problem: did you slightly adjust your timing map when you switched from 93 to 91?

 

 

You'll remember this road trip for sure... Last time I did it, I 'just' had to deal with torn cv boots and change a front wheel bearing. Luckily, I brought all my tools too!

 

 

And yes, BTSSM FTW!

 

I never have experienced this scenario before either...

 

I haven't adjusted my map at this point. That's part of the reason I have the octane booster with me, I use one every other tank of 91 to keep it closer to 93 and haven't had any issues with that model for the last 3-4 years.

 

It's not cheap, but not much on this car is any more

 

The 2011 STi seats are awesome, 14hrs with butt in seat and I'm not sore at all today from sitting.

 

I was telling my son on the way up, I really ONLY have three main things I want to do now...

- 6 mt

- fresh short block

- repaint for steel blue mica

 

Just little things that don't cost much...

[xt2005bonbon]

Three main things left? Yeah right! It will never end man!

 

 

Well, I am glad you are not panicking and are able to figure out what and how to fix the issue at hand.

 

 

When I could no longer find 91, then I had to stop, cry for a second, and remove 2 degrees of timing from the whole map. I could tell the loss of torque a little.

Edited June 7, 2021 by xt2005bonbon

[rhino6303]

Finally installed a digital timed relay and wired in the rear washer pump to trigger.(had already installed the dual pump reservoir and plugged it in)

 

Put a fuse in the circuit, found the ground wire at the wiper stalk plug and tied it into my relay.

 

I can set the relay for countdown mode (I have it on 6 seconds right now) or any number of pulse modes with variable timing.( hit the button and spray 6 seconds off 15 secs, on 6 secs etc.)

 

Most expensive parts were the nozzles.

 

Wired to a momentary switch right now, I will install the folding mirror switch and use that as the trigger.

 

 

 

Works great, uses a lot of water. I can normally cruise a degree above what the outside temp says on the display. With the spray, it drops 5-6 degrees below that.

 

 

 

Today it said 95 on dash, cruising was 96-97 IAT on the AP. Cruising after spraying the Temps would drop to 89-90 IAT. Definitely helps after a few pulls, drops fairly quickly.

 

 

 

I am hybrid speed density, my IAT sensor is mounted right at the outlet on the drivers end tank (grimmspeed).

For your IAT setup did you weld a bung to the endtank or just drill and tap the Grimmspeed intercooler?

[Marvick08GT]

Grimmspeed recommended using a welded bung.

[xt2005bonbon]

Marvick, do you have a build thread or better pic of your setup?

[norutah]

2 sets of mirror finishers arrived from Russia. One set was 32j and got installed. Second set is silver so it'll go to paint after a few more parts arrive. Subtle change but with it

 

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[SubOperator]

Definitely sounds like the nut wasn't torqued. That definitely makes me question if I should even consider aftermarket Bilsteins for my GT amongst all manufacturers

 

 

But the nut isn't an issue with Bilsteins, it's issue with whoever torqued that nut. Would have happened with any other strut.

 

 

I am 150K on and happy with my Bilsteins. Have a new set ready to go on the car (bought it few years back from Underdog).

[awfulwaffle]

Finally installed a digital timed relay and wired in the rear washer pump to trigger.(had already installed the dual pump reservoir and plugged it in)

Put a fuse in the circuit, found the ground wire at the wiper stalk plug and tied it into my relay.

I can set the relay for countdown mode (I have it on 6 seconds right now) or any number of pulse modes with variable timing.( hit the button and spray 6 seconds off 15 secs, on 6 secs etc.)

Most expensive parts were the nozzles.

Wired to a momentary switch right now, I will install the folding mirror switch and use that as the trigger.

 

Works great, uses a lot of water. I can normally cruise a degree above what the outside temp says on the display. With the spray, it drops 5-6 degrees below that.

 

Today it said 95 on dash, cruising was 96-97 IAT on the AP. Cruising after spraying the Temps would drop to 89-90 IAT. Definitely helps after a few pulls, drops fairly quickly.

 

I am hybrid speed density, my IAT sensor is mounted right at the outlet on the drivers end tank (grimmspeed).

 

Interesting datapoints. I've noted that the FMIC won't heatsoak at all, but will consistently sit 5-6 degF over what the dash reads as ambient temperature. Wonder if the hot side piping picking up heat from the bay is responsible, would explain the difference vs the Grimmspeed TMIC.

[boxkita]

I never have experienced this scenario before either...

 

I haven't adjusted my map at this point. That's part of the reason I have the octane booster with me, I use one every other tank of 91 to keep it closer to 93 and haven't had any issues with that model for the last 3-4 years.

 

It's not cheap, but not much on this car is any more

 

The 2011 STi seats are awesome, 14hrs with butt in seat and I'm not sore at all today from sitting.

 

I was telling my son on the way up, I really ONLY have three main things I want to do now...

- 6 mt

- fresh short block

- repaint for steel blue mica

 

Just little things that don't cost much...

 

look up VP fuels stations. They'll have higher octane options. google says several stations exist in Flagstaff.

[xt2005bonbon]

Interesting datapoints. I've noted that the FMIC won't heatsoak at all, but will consistently sit 5-6 degF over what the dash reads as ambient temperature. Wonder if the hot side piping picking up heat from the bay is responsible, would explain the difference vs the Grimmspeed TMIC.

 

 

That would be my guess.

[Nonamedude]

Got in the car this morning and heard the tiniest little whine when I pushed in the clutch. I'm only at 45k on this clutch so I'm not stoked to hear the TOB.

 

 

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[rhino6303]

Double Post Edited June 7, 2021 by rhino6303

[rhino6303]

Grimmspeed recommended using a welded bung.

Thanks. That was my plan but I wanted to see if anyone had just tapped. The walls are thick enough but I don't them to crack.

[DaveWaters]

Thanks guys, I'm assuming that's basically this one: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/fuel-system/subaru-aem-high-flow-fuel-pump-05-09-lgt-08-14-wrx-08-20-sti

 

 

Yes, AEM 50-1215. But I paid Cobbs price for my last one next day with tax from RSD.

[Infosecdad]

Yes, AEM 50-1215. But I paid Cobbs price for my last one next day with tax from RSD.

 

I went with Cobb's because they are close (TX), could guarantee overnight and included the OEM sock. Should come tomorrow and I'll perform some surgery in the hotel parking lot.