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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Picked up JDM SpecB rear bumper from the freight terminal. Wrong color but at least I got it. Paid more for shipping than for the part itself :)

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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I did. P1446. Evap. Did all the troubleshooting with the help of Tysparks. Needs a new valve.

 

My wagon's twin... Did you read the CEL code? Don't let the dealer screw you and the car up.
Edited by NoOne1223
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I did. P1446. Evap. Did all the troubleshooting with the help of Tysparks. Needs a new valve.

 

 

Any gas smell? I believe I got the same CEL once, my wagon was smelling gas every so often for a few years now.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Any gas smell? I believe I got the same CEL once, my wagon was smelling gas every so often for a few years now.

 

No gas smell, but the CEL is recurrent. Mighty annoying because, again, I just picked the car up on Tuesday... I'm going to get the to change the day of delivery to when I pick the car up again...

 

Hopefully they don't charge me for this because not having the car for 24 hours and already having to take it to them to deal with something that never showed during the test drive is bs, and the horn not working meaning it failed its safety. Not to mention that the Subaru shop that did the airbag recall noted in the invoice that the horn didn't work, and the dealership I bought the car from not reading the invoice adds to the frustration... But I don't intend on giving this car up

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AW4BTY

 

Didn't want to load up a for sale thread and I'm sure others might like to know, where'd those black caps for ps/brake/windshield washer come from? I've looked a number of times and never seen that. I friggin hate all the yellow.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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AW4BTY

 

Didn't want to load up a for sale thread and I'm sure others might like to know, where'd those black caps for ps/brake/windshield washer come from? I've looked a number of times and never seen that. I friggin hate all the yellow.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Not sure if this is the answer you are looking for but the brake bleeder cap for Subaru is the same as for Ford. Just saying.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Long overdue to get this done, I usually keep an annual interval for it, but received my results from Blackstone. This along with a sound leak down test are giving me the green for my road tune. Now I just need to find time to install the new TMIC, injectors, and pump.:spin:

247803006_Screenshot_20210604-1711312.thumb.jpg.9b76fc9e65eab46b386aab5e1327c846.jpg

Edited by CrowNaza86
:yeahthat:
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Finished re-rolling my e85 map for the 16G, as I wait to make sure the car's not gonna blow up before getting the x500 on. Same timing, same AFR targets, same boost targets, just massaged boost control and turbo dynamics for the FMIC and ELH. Verdict is: lost about 400 RPM of spool, lost about 20 whp at peak but picked up about 40 ft-lbs according to VirtualDyno runs on the same stretch of road. Power stays nearly flat up to redline (maybe 20 hp drop from peak), versus the much larger drop with the crappy Perrin-style TMIC and factory UELs. Pretty neat. Edited by awfulwaffle
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Long overdue to get this done, I usually keep an annual interval for it, but received my results from Blackstone. This along with a sound leak down test are giving me the green for my road tune. Now I just need to find time to install the new TMIC, injectors, and pump.:spin:

 

Really good report, what oil?

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Bought an AP in anticipation of doing a DP & tune at some point in the future. In the mean time loaded up the cobb stage 1 tune. Only seeing ~10psi peak boost. :mad: I popped the hood when I got back from the office, and looked around but it was too hot to go poking around. [snip]

 

Sooooo I've got some exploring in the engine bay to do this weekend.

 

Took off the intercooler and inspected vacuum lines while I did an oil change this morning. Vacuum lines all appeared to be fine. TMIC is showing signs of separating near the turbo. Would this be enough to cause max 10psi of boost? Otherwise I need to start looking into the boost controller and/or wastegate actuation, right? (Exit side also shown for comparison)

 

 

*EDIT* No. Restrictor. Pill. Decided to pull that t and check the two hoses (turbo to t and t to wastegate). Daylight through both. Looks like my next step is sourcing a restrictor pill.

1363383374_TMICTurboSide1.thumb.jpg.3e9787a79aafd5b26ff31a868a5ca7c6.jpg

436336974_TMICTurboSide2.thumb.jpg.2f54925f8585d69e1ec9f49105058aaa.jpg

1664041503_TMICExitside.thumb.jpg.033b0afd752d585ecba8927b604356d1.jpg

Edited by tehspud
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Finally installed a digital timed relay and wired in the rear washer pump to trigger.(had already installed the dual pump reservoir and plugged it in)

Put a fuse in the circuit, found the ground wire at the wiper stalk plug and tied it into my relay.

I can set the relay for countdown mode (I have it on 6 seconds right now) or any number of pulse modes with variable timing.( hit the button and spray 6 seconds off 15 secs, on 6 secs etc.)

Most expensive parts were the nozzles.

Wired to a momentary switch right now, I will install the folding mirror switch and use that as the trigger.

 

Works great, uses a lot of water. I can normally cruise a degree above what the outside temp says on the display. With the spray, it drops 5-6 degrees below that.

 

Today it said 95 on dash, cruising was 96-97 IAT on the AP. Cruising after spraying the Temps would drop to 89-90 IAT. Definitely helps after a few pulls, drops fairly quickly.

 

I am hybrid speed density, my IAT sensor is mounted right at the outlet on the drivers end tank (grimmspeed).

20210605_181207_copy_1512x2016.thumb.jpg.568e1eab1860b060090c0a0f785c39c1.jpg

20210605_181241_copy_1512x2016.thumb.jpg.4ef787cce10b8233902ddcb8f9d426ad.jpg

20210605_180831_copy_2016x1512.thumb.jpg.135212b3690fdb12400d55e795421077.jpg

Edited by Marvick08GT
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Long overdue to get this done, I usually keep an annual interval for it, but received my results from Blackstone. This along with a sound leak down test are giving me the green for my road tune. Now I just need to find time to install the new TMIC, injectors, and pump.:spin:

 

How much oil have you been adding between oil changes? These cars chug down oil like a frat boy drinks beer at a kegger and the good readings may be from new oil.

 

And I will second the question of apexi: what oil are you using?

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Can i swap outback springs onto my legacy struts for lift? or will this also **** up my geometry across the car? (new here so please stop being assholes to me.)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Outback struts will lift your legacy. OEM Outback springs will not lift your legacy. If you're looking for a lot of lift and to do it the best possible way and retain the suspension geometry, look at the removing outback subframe spacer threads and do the opposite

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

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MDMA, Hey you need to stop posting those amazing photo's, you're making me jealous.

 

Your cars are gorgeous.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Need a recommendation for a good fuel pump for my ‘05.

 

I’m pretty sure my AEM 50-1000 is going out.

If the tank is full I’m at 45 psi idle and 49psi at 75 mph.

But at half a tank it’s down to the upper 30s at 75 and will quit around 1/4 tank.

I think it’s over heating when there isn’t much fuel left in the tank.

Left me stranded for 15 min twice in NM today.

Hoping to get something over nighted to the hotel to replace in Flagstaff.

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Got STI rack swapped in today. Relatively painless, besides having to pull it back down to adjust steering wheel orientation.

 

It fixed my bad pop near steering lock. Fluttering clunks still remained. Lightbulb went off. Checked nut that holds damper rod in top hat bearing. Sure enough it was loose. Never thought to check it, I purchased struts fully assembled. Glad I caught that before it backed out completely, that would have been BAD, like really bad. I was considering just trying to ignore it for a few weeks before I finally found culprit.

 

To anyone else who orders used Bilsteins : Don't assume strut rod is properly secured to top-hat.

 

EDIT : What I found odd was that the nut and rod had a paint stripe on them noting orientation. With paint stripes aligned nut was only finger tight. Once properly torqued paint marks did not line up anymore. Was this never torqued from the factory?

Edited by bubbagump
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